UKC

Takes a diagonal line from right to left across the prominent quartz feature. Abseil from the in situ stakes. Belay in the niche on the right at high tide/ big swell. Climb up and left reaching another niche and then up to the diagonal crack in the quartz. Climb this for a short way and then head up and left to a large quartz block. Arrange gear here as it is the last before sketchy moves( to pass a slightly smaller but less permanent block) lead to the fragile finishing crack. This will swallow the number 4 cam and massive hex that you saved for this very exciting finish.

R. Hudson and L. Bartrop 21/Jun/2015.

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Archangel

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Black Head Area)

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