UKC

High quality but rarely done. Starts to the left of Red Zinger and can be identified by a protection bolt low on the route. This face section leads to a short crack and then a diagonal ramp with a pin at the bottom. Negotiating this ramp is the crux. Above this a variety of crack climbing (mostly 5.11) leads to the anchor at the top of the second pitch of "Meat Grinder".

Sometimes given an R/PG13 rating: there is micro-gear in the diagonal ramp, but stopping to place it is hard. Easier just to climb through the crux above the fixed pin. This pin appears to be good and can be backed up with good small wires below it. Other than this the route is well protected.

Kim Carrigan, Geoff Weigland 1985.

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Guidebooks for Cookie Cliff

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Voting
High 5.12c
Mid 5.12c
Low 5.12c
High 5.12b
Mid 5.12b
Low 5.12b
High 5.12a
Mid 5.12a
Low 5.12a
Style of Ascent
Toproped
Lead
Repeated
Dogged
Redpoint
Route of Interest
Tales of Power

Grade: 5.12b ***
(Above the Cookie )

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