Rockfax Description
The start is approximately 200m to the right of Øst pillaren, under a conspicuous big flake, two pitches up. Pitch 3 takes a line up the right side of this flake. The route has an adventurous feel to it with some intricate route finding. It is reasonably well protected with a normal Lofoten rack.
1) N3, 30m. Scramble leftwards on ledges under the big flake.
2) N5, 40m. Step left to a big groove. Follow this and then rightwards to a stance under the left side of the big flake.
3) N6, 40m. Sustained laybacking up the right side of the flake. When the crack turns wide, traverse left on a ledge to a belay.
4) N7-, 40m. Down-climb a couple of metres then traverse left to a thin crack in a bulge. Continue into a right-facing corner with a thin crack. Delicate moves up this lead to a stance in a small niche.
5) N5, 40m. Head up a big black groove to a stance on a shelf.
6) N5, 60m. Traverse down and right to reach a right-facing groove. Climb straight up to the big grassy ledge.
7) N6-, 45m. Climb a big crack in a groove. Continue straight in cracks on the right side of another big groove.
8) N6, 50m. Go straight up a continuous finger-crack on a bulge, then step right and up into a wide formation.
9) N6-, 40m. Cracks on the right side of a big corner lead to a stance at a small shelf.
10) N6-, 45m. Traverse down and right to a big groove. Climb cracks in a right-facing corner to belay on a ramp to the right.
11) N7, 40m. Step left into a steep corner with a thin crack. Awkward moves lead to a ramp that goes left to a small corner and the top-out. Traverse a ramp leftwards to join the descent from Øst pillaren. © Rockfax

FA. Andreas Holm, Ola Kalen 3.7.2009 03/Jul/2009.

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