UKC

2950m, 5 pitches. The Classic climb on Corno Stella, home to some of the finest climbs in that hidden corner of the Alps.
Directions: two hours drive from Turin, or two and a half from Nice (FR) through the spectacular Val Roja. Reach Terme di Valdieri (Valle Gesso) then go past it towards Gias delle Mosche, where a well visible information plaque shows the direction towards Rifugio Bozano (2450m); parking is possible. Reach Bozano hut, then head to the huge Corno in front of it. Base of the climb is located 2/3 up the west face, which can be reached with a moderate scrambling or better concatenating another route from the bottom (5 to 8 pitches depending on the route).
The climb is exposed, steep and elegant. Pegs are in place, but quite sparse and little room for additional protection.
Full topo at http://www.gulliver.it/itinerario/5792/ or buy the guide (also available for consultation at Rifugio Bozano) http://www.versantesud.it/shop/corno-stella/

M. Campia, G. Ellena, R. Nervo 15/Jul/1945.

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User Date Notes
VinnyW 31 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Pitch 4 was wet so took the direct variation via the flake. Came off laybacking flake but climbed on second attempt! Variant 6a /5c.
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βeta: Pitch 4 was wet so took the direct variation via the flake. Came off laybacking flake but climbed on second attempt! Variant 6a /5c.

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