61m, 2 pitches. One of the best routes for hand jamming on this side of the Atlantic, steady for the grade if that's up your street.

FFA C Torrans, C Sheridan 1974

Ticklists

Ireland 3 Star E1-E2, 2019, Ireland 3 Star Multipitches, Proper Cracks UK

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
ebutler414 14 Sep AltLd RP
Seán Fortune 14 Sep AltLd O/S Karate chopping
Karate chopping
AlexRenshaw 29 Aug AltLd
with Tim Raffle
with Tim Raffle
Matt Clifton 27 Aug AltLd O/S
with Mike Dawes
with Mike Dawes
Jacob Steadman 25 Aug 2nd O/S Great route to practise hand jams, although all technique went out the window at the crux haha....
with zcsharp
Great route to practise hand jams, although all technique went out the window at the crux haha....
with zcsharp
JonahB 25 Aug Lead O/S Led both pitches which were equally amazing with great thoughtful cruxes. My favourite trad route so far!
with Toby
Led both pitches which were equally amazing with great thoughtful cruxes. My favourite trad route so far!
with Toby
zcsharp 25 Aug Lead rpt
Artem Babichenko 27 Jul Lead O/S Led both pitches. Brilliant route!
with Con
Led both pitches. Brilliant route!
with Con
sas 30 Jun AltLd O/S Led p2
with Gwyd, AlonsoDundee
Led p2
with Gwyd, AlonsoDundee
bodovix 30 Jun AltLd O/S
AlonsoDundee 30 Jun 2nd O/S Great jamming route. Pitch 1: Gwyd Pitch 2: Simon
with bodovix, sas
Great jamming route. Pitch 1: Gwyd Pitch 2: Simon
with bodovix, sas
myrddinmuse 21 Jun AltLd O/S Led P2, felt quite reasonable for the grade! Splitter. Was a toss up between doing this or getting an early night. We made the right choice!
Led P2, felt quite reasonable for the grade! Splitter. Was a toss up between doing this or getting an early night. We made the right choice!
Heather Osborne 21 Jun AltLd rpt Just as great the second time! Led p1 this time
Just as great the second time! Led p1 this time
ebutler414 21 Jun AltLd dog
Pierre Cadman-Bosse 2 Jun AltLd O/S Led P2, mega
Led P2, mega
Owen Diba 2 Jun AltLd O/S
D.Russell 2 Jun AltLd O/S
scottw 1 Jun Lead RP
ConorWalter 1 Jun -
with Cormac Kelly
with Cormac Kelly
Adam Timmons ?Jun AltLd β
Jamie Mullins ?Jun AltLd O/S
JendeHoxar 20 Apr 2nd O/S
with Flavio
with Flavio
Flavio 20 Apr Lead O/S In one massive victory pitch. Puts all hand jamming cracks I ever done to shame.
In one massive victory pitch. Puts all hand jamming cracks I ever done to shame.
kenneM 15 Oct, 2018 Lead O/S Another brilliant FH E2. Lead both pitches and took the original second pitch.
with Nicholas
Another brilliant FH E2. Lead both pitches and took the original second pitch.
with Nicholas
Andy Moles 27 Jul, 2018 Lead
with Ali
with Ali
Loulou 19 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S Led both pitch
Led both pitch
redjerry 7 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Robert Duran
with Robert Duran
Rich Kirby 25 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S Great splitter climbing.
Great splitter climbing.
Heather Osborne 4 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S Amazing! Led p2
with Aggie
Amazing! Led p2
with Aggie
Hidden 3 Jun, 2018 AltLd
Paul Collins 3 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S Pitch 1
with bren
Pitch 1
with bren
Neil McA 2 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S Nice to finish it off after previously having been rained off this route
with paul innes
Nice to finish it off after previously having been rained off this route
with paul innes
niallsash 2 Jun, 2018 AltLd Lead first pitch class route
Lead first pitch class route
Hidden ?Jun, 2018 AltLd
Hidden ?May, 2018 AltLd
Ed Babs 10 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S P2. Started up direct finish but hard so went left.
P2. Started up direct finish but hard so went left.
brian watson 10 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S P1 what a cracker!
with Ed Babs
P1 what a cracker!
with Ed Babs
Neil McA 5 Jun, 2017 Lead dnf P1 only then abseiled off in the rain
with paul innes
P1 only then abseiled off in the rain
with paul innes
Hidden 3 Jun, 2017 Lead
George Ponsonby 2 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S
Hidden 2 Jun, 2017 Lead
aiyer 2 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S Lead P2. Great teamwork! 😁
Lead P2. Great teamwork! 😁
Wendy Watthews 2 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S Brilliant birthday route, I lead P1 and aby p2. Glorious jams all the way up with a stiff move through the overhang
with aiyer
Brilliant birthday route, I lead P1 and aby p2. Glorious jams all the way up with a stiff move through the overhang
with aiyer
pt811 1 Jun, 2017 Lead Excellent, one of my favorite climbs.
with Adam
Excellent, one of my favorite climbs.
with Adam
DaveWhite13 11 May, 2017 Lead dog Led pitch 1. Foot slip on crux section
with Nic Marriott
Led pitch 1. Foot slip on crux section
with Nic Marriott
RKernan 6 May, 2017 Lead Nice to come back and do this properly. hard work but never desperate. led as 1 pitch on 60m ropes BUT ensure you pre-build the anchor as you won't be able to reach it otherwise. ****as previously mentioned DO NOT go left from the belay ledge but rather go up to the obvious crack leftwards. i did this and an edge broke off-luckily foot just slipped onto the next hold down
with Vicky
Nice to come back and do this properly. hard work but never desperate. led as 1 pitch on 60m ropes BUT ensure you pre-build the anchor as you won't be able to reach it otherwise. ****as previously mentioned DO NOT go left from the belay ledge but rather go up to the obvious crack leftwards. i did this and an edge broke off-luckily foot just slipped onto the next hold down
with Vicky
zcsharp 6 May, 2017 2nd
with cjcuni
with cjcuni
cjcuni ?May, 2017 Lead O/S One pitch. Just a really nice route, possibly a favourite.
with Jamie Roberts
One pitch. Just a really nice route, possibly a favourite.
with Jamie Roberts
adagiono1 6 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S
with Anna
with Anna
Hidden 23 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S
s kennedy 23 Jul, 2016 2nd Still can't jam
with John
Still can't jam
with John
davkeo 23 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S Done direct version recently but this is well worth doing in its own right. Ken led the first pitch brilliantly and it all seemed to click for him in terms of jamming, pacing & movement. Easier p2 for me which was very enjoyable.
with kdo
Done direct version recently but this is well worth doing in its own right. Ken led the first pitch brilliantly and it all seemed to click for him in terms of jamming, pacing & movement. Easier p2 for me which was very enjoyable.
with kdo
tprebs 3 Jul, 2016 2nd rpt
with zcsharp
with zcsharp
zcsharp 3 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S Lead it in one big pitch while it was raining intermediately. So many hand jams!
with tprebs
Lead it in one big pitch while it was raining intermediately. So many hand jams!
with tprebs
Hidden 25 Jun, 2016 AltLd rpt
Hidden 6 Jun, 2016 Lead O/S
Hidden 4 Jun, 2016 -
O Lar 4 Jun, 2016 AltLd rpt Did the easier first pitch
Did the easier first pitch
mdolan 4 Jun, 2016 2nd β
Leman Lemanski 4 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S Quite sustained and requires good gear management, specially if you are short of big cams and quickdraws. Looks like a popular E2.
Quite sustained and requires good gear management, specially if you are short of big cams and quickdraws. Looks like a popular E2.
Hidden 3 Jun, 2016 Lead
Kirill 1 Jun, 2016 AltLd
cem 1 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S Led p2.
Led p2.
Hidden 1 Jun, 2016 2nd
Hidden ?Jun, 2016 2nd
J.Atkinson ?Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S
islandlynx 30 May, 2016 AltLd O/S Great route for my favourite flavour of jam (hands). Yes it is less desperate than some peak hvs routes but they're 15m. Part off the difficulty here is managing gear so you don't run out at the top of the crack. Not my favourite but one of the best routes I've climbed.
with Matt77
Great route for my favourite flavour of jam (hands). Yes it is less desperate than some peak hvs routes but they're 15m. Part off the difficulty here is managing gear so you don't run out at the top of the crack. Not my favourite but one of the best routes I've climbed.
with Matt77
Matt77 30 May, 2016 AltLd O/S P2. Jam to glory. Steady but keeps coming and maintains the same difficulty pretty much throughout (after the first 8 metres). Spiffing.
with Shane
P2. Jam to glory. Steady but keeps coming and maintains the same difficulty pretty much throughout (after the first 8 metres). Spiffing.
with Shane
Hidden ??, 2016 -
kylos8048 ??, 2016 Lead O/S Fantastic climb with Owen and Tanty during the FH meet. Must go back to do direct finish.
Fantastic climb with Owen and Tanty during the FH meet. Must go back to do direct finish.
SeánM ??, 2016 AltLd O/S
Mr Sparkle 18 Sep, 2015 2nd O/S
Mike_Hayes 18 Sep, 2015 Lead
Hidden 22 Aug, 2015 AltLd
Hidden 12 Jul, 2015 Lead dnf
Tubs 12 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S Thought this was a gift at E2 and more like Peak HVS 5b. Great climbing and line regardless.
with Max
Thought this was a gift at E2 and more like Peak HVS 5b. Great climbing and line regardless.
with Max
Pippa 11 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S ***Strenuous,proper jamming, wide for my hands
***Strenuous,proper jamming, wide for my hands
Dizz 11 Jun, 2015 2nd O/S
with Kevin s
with Kevin s
khalidq 11 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S I led P2
I led P2
Ian Jones 10 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S Fantastic and very cruisy. Felt like HVS compared to The Prow E1s. ****
Fantastic and very cruisy. Felt like HVS compared to The Prow E1s. ****
Martin Bagshaw 10 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S Ian led first pitch
Ian led first pitch
Dave Cussen ??, 2015 -
renetemple 14 Sep, 2014 2nd dog Amazing! Really teaches you how to jam... Still didn't stop me from trying to crimp stuff on the side and layback though..
with Colm Shannon
Amazing! Really teaches you how to jam... Still didn't stop me from trying to crimp stuff on the side and layback though..
with Colm Shannon
RKernan 3 Jul, 2014 - Not sure how to log this one... Climbed up to crux then it rained so lowered off. Lowered in to get the gear and top-roped out as doing that walk out once in one day was more than enough! Will be back to do it properly.
Not sure how to log this one... Climbed up to crux then it rained so lowered off. Lowered in to get the gear and top-roped out as doing that walk out once in one day was more than enough! Will be back to do it properly.
ldavison440 3 Jul, 2014 2nd
with RKernan
with RKernan
Hidden 4 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Jun, 2014 -
tprebs 31 May, 2014 2nd rpt
GOS 31 May, 2014 2nd O/S a sustained route; crux on 1st pitch is indeed the overhang, but crux on 2nd is not the hand traverse or the mantle to the ledge but the crack to the top
with Vicky Cleary
a sustained route; crux on 1st pitch is indeed the overhang, but crux on 2nd is not the hand traverse or the mantle to the ledge but the crack to the top
with Vicky Cleary
Hidden 31 May, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 30 May, 2014 AltLd rpt
dcussen ??, 2014 -
Hidden 25 Aug, 2013 AltLd
KKilroy 22 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S Speed climbing training route #1. 37minutes. Awesome route! First time a few years ago it took half the day. Double Cams up to Grey and one size 9 wire.
with McCune
Speed climbing training route #1. 37minutes. Awesome route! First time a few years ago it took half the day. Double Cams up to Grey and one size 9 wire.
with McCune
tprebs 20 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S As one awesome pitch
with John O'Hara
As one awesome pitch
with John O'Hara
Hidden ?Jul, 2013 2nd
mcgovern 3 Jun, 2013 AltLd EPIC *** :D
EPIC *** :D
liamo333 3 Jun, 2013 AltLd
liamo333 ??, 2013 -
Hidden 15 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S
GarethHall 4 Jun, 2012 AltLd O/S Led first pitch (of the day, and of the holiday too!)
Led first pitch (of the day, and of the holiday too!)
paddygoodwinlondon 4 Jun, 2012 AltLd O/S
with Gareth Hall
with Gareth Hall
soph 2 Jun, 2012 AltLd
steve_yo 2 Jun, 2012 AltLd O/S
with soph
with soph
janegallwey 9 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S
metal arms 29 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S
JulesV 3 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S
with SV
with SV
Hidden 2 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Jul, 2011 2nd
richardcreagh 3 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S Stunning!
Stunning!
Hidden 31 May, 2011 AltLd O/S
mike mo 31 May, 2011 AltLd
Hidden 29 May, 2011 2nd O/S
KKilroy 29 May, 2011 Lead
with bugs29
with bugs29
Luke Brooks 26 May, 2011 Lead Led in one big 60m pitch.
with Guy Steven
Led in one big 60m pitch.
with Guy Steven
colenn 10 Apr, 2011 AltLd rpt
with Stephen Gallwey
with Stephen Gallwey
chillax ??, 2011 -
Ri 29 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S
with Anja Jones
with Anja Jones
dicky79 19 Jun, 2010 2nd O/S Mark followed the guidebook and went straight left from the belay. Do not do this. An edge broke off and he took a factor 2 onto my belay. Follow the crack for 3 metres and take an obvious finger crack left for 2 metres to the next crack.
with Mark Nicholson
Mark followed the guidebook and went straight left from the belay. Do not do this. An edge broke off and he took a factor 2 onto my belay. Follow the crack for 3 metres and take an obvious finger crack left for 2 metres to the next crack.
with Mark Nicholson
Alex@home ?May, 2010 2nd O/S
with The Doctor
with The Doctor
Rose Williams 16 Aug, 2009 2nd dog
with gnc760
with gnc760
gnc760 16 Aug, 2009 Lead O/S Sterling climb, best I've done at the Head so far.
with Rose Williams
Sterling climb, best I've done at the Head so far.
with Rose Williams
Graham Iles 29 Jun, 2009 AltLd Lead the first pitch.
Lead the first pitch.
pete johnson ?Jun, 2009 -
Hidden 30 May, 2009 2nd
Dave Rumney 10 May, 2009 AltLd
with Tanya Milner
with Tanya Milner
Hidden ?May, 2009 AltLd
Hidden ??, 2009 Lead O/S
Hidden 24 Aug, 2008 AltLd O/S
Nigel Coe 17 Jun, 2006 AltLd
with Amnon
with Amnon
datoon 30 Apr, 2006 Lead dog
with RT & JB
with RT & JB
Gibson27 ??, 2006 AltLd O/S
Johann ??, 2005 AltLd O/S
with Smax
with Smax
Mark Stevenson 21 Aug, 2004 AltLd O/S
with Ian Chestnutt
with Ian Chestnutt
cornishben ?Jun, 2004 AltLd O/S
with Ian Butterworth
with Ian Butterworth
Hidden ??, 2004 Lead O/S
Ken lindsay ??, 1995 AltLd O/S Climbed same day as Sreang Scuab
Climbed same day as Sreang Scuab
Bob Windsor ?Jun, 1988 2nd
with Bish Mcara
with Bish Mcara
John HW ??, 1986 AltLd O/S
with Dave Evans
with Dave Evans
Steve Clegg 12 Jul, 1984 Lead
with Gough
with Gough
keefe 30 Jun, 1984 AltLd
with Tom Ryan
with Tom Ryan
keefe 27 Mar, 1983 -
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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 23
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 16
Votes cast 20
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Not Set