An old classic with a good mountaineering feel about it despite being close to the road. Begin just to the right of a small cave, or niche, below a big sharp-edged, left-facing groove.
1) N4+, 35m. Climb up the short groove, then follow a crack system straight up to a large detached flake. Above are two grooves, climb either one and belay on a ledge.
2) N3+, 20m. A short pitch gains the huge bushy terrace above. Move left to belay below a steep wall. (DO NOT climb higher up the terrace rightwards, towards an old off-route peg.)
3) N5-, 35m. Step out left from the belay, past a small overhang, and onto the steep face. Climb cracks straight up the middle of the face, then move over another small overhang and climb up to a ledge with a tree belay. A good pitch.
4) N5- 40m. Continue up the crack system, with a hard move at the start. Move up, then step left under a block and around an overhang. Climb up a chimney to another bushy terrace. Step up to a good ledge at the base of the left-hand of two prominent corner-cracks.
5) N5-, 45m. Climb the grooves and cracks into the route's upper chimney system, and continue up the chimney (loose) until a traverse out left gains a big ledge with a large belay spike. (The FA team traversed out of the chimney halfway up, and then climbed a parallel chimney on the left, which is less direct).
6) N5, 40m. Climb a vertical crack on the right, then step left and up to the bottom of the large prominent black slab on the left, which can be easily seen from the road. Traverse left at the bottom of the slab, then climb a vertical crack which splits its centre. Now traverse left along a ledge to an excellent belay ledge under the crucial groove with its wide crack.
6a) N4+, 50m. An easier variation. From the bottom of the slab, climb a terrace up and right, then go up an easy groove until a 15m horizontal traverse back left reaches the normal stance.
7) N6-, 25m. A sustained pitch of wide jamming leads up the steep groove to the large belay ledge.
8) N4+, 45m. Climb the short arete on the right and finish easily up more broken rock to the summit. © Rockfax
FA. Arild Meyer, Finn Tore Bjørnstad 14.6.1978. It took them four and a half hours. They used one point of aid (for a rest) on pitch 7, but typically still gave the pitch a rating of 5+! 14/Jun/1978