6m.
Bay 4 - Route 2-3 metres to the right of chicken wings. Start on the ground with both hands in the starting jug. Move with your left into a shallow 3 finger pocket and then your right up to a awkward peanut hold, which isn't too bad if you catch it right. Then the two hard moves, a really long reach for taller climbers or small dyno for shorter climbers to a small edge where you only get two fingers. Left heel near the starting jug and cross your hands to a 2 finger pocket while smearing your right foot far right. From there move your right hand up, now where the two finger pocket is you can get a size 1 nut in the small crack it's pretty good and would probably hold in a fall however, this is the only bit of gear and you would hit the floor if your belayer didn't run backwards. From here the climbing is relatively okay on small edges then an easy top out.... Just don't fall. Bouldering mat highly recommended.
Connor price 21/Jul/2015.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Deezel65 | 12 Nov, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Short person beta - start as previous beta up to the left hand pocket and peanut. Foot swap then right foot to the sandy sloper and bring the left foot up into the starting jug. Left hand over to either the small flatty or the thin flake. Right hand into the better pocket just to its right then much easier climbing above. The hard moves are only 3m off the ground then a small wire protects easier climbing to the small break below the top which takes several small cams | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: Short person beta - start as previous beta up to the left hand pocket and peanut. Foot swap then right foot to the sandy sloper and bring the left foot up into the starting jug. Left hand over to either the small flatty or the thin flake. Right hand into the better pocket just to its right then much easier climbing above. The hard moves are only 3m off the ground then a small wire protects easier climbing to the small break below the top which takes several small cams |
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Route of Interest
Long Tall Sally
Grade: E1 5b ***
(Burbage North)