UKC Logbook - 'Stratagem'

Rockfax Description
16m. Originally called Ella, this ancient aid route would be a Millstone masterpiece were it shipped down there. Climb the initial overhang and follow the crack to a ledge (beware nesting birds - puke, puke). The slanting crack gives a sustained technical battle to a taxing exit. There may be a peg runner in place. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The belting crack through the headwall has a quasi-religious aura. Although Rockfax gives the grade as E4, the consensus seems to be solid E5.

Redhead, Shorter.

Ticklists

The Moorland Challenge , North York Moors - The Best... Arguably , North York Moors E5s , Dave Warburton's Top 100 , 6b

Feedback Always Hide βeta

User	Date		Notes
climberchristy	25 Aug	Show βeta βeta: Belayed a friend who was top roping this today and he reported that the eye has cracked on the upper of the two pegs so it is no longer clippable. It was OK when I led it two weeks ago so it must have broken on someone very recently. It might be possible to tie it off but if I remember this peg correctly I doubt that will be possible because of its strangely flat shape. My mate said the cracked eye has left a very sharp edge of metal so it's unlikely that it could be tied off through the remains of the eye either. If you're headpointing then there are cams available near the peg. But if you're trying onsight then best to know that peg 2 is not available.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Belayed a friend who was top roping this today and he reported that the eye has cracked on the upper of the two pegs so it is no longer clippable. It was OK when I led it two weeks ago so it must have broken on someone very recently. It might be possible to tie it off but if I remember this peg correctly I doubt that will be possible because of its strangely flat shape. My mate said the cracked eye has left a very sharp edge of metal so it's unlikely that it could be tied off through the remains of the eye either. If you're headpointing then there are cams available near the peg. But if you're trying onsight then best to know that peg 2 is not available.