Rockfax Description
16m. Another big pitch with excellent bold climbing. Start at the right-hand side of the green streak at a shallow groove. Climb to the bulges then trend right through these to a crack. Swing swiftly back left and pull onto a ledge right on the arete. Finish up a thin crack splitting the top wall. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
One of the best E2s on the Moors. A confident approach is needed, and a strong arm to hold on. Friend 4 needed.

Ticklists

NYMoors Classics, Rockfax Northern England Top 50

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UserDateNotes
James Pollard 26 Aug Show βeta
βeta: Lovely climbing 3 stars ⭐️ ⭐️ ⭐️
βeta?
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βeta: Lovely climbing 3 stars ⭐️ ⭐️ ⭐️
IanJackson 31 May, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Another route needing a *** tag. One of the best routes in the area.
βeta?
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βeta: Another route needing a *** tag. One of the best routes in the area.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
James Pollard 25 Aug Lead Placed extra nut off left to prevent ground fall
with Tony Marr, Mike Tooke
Placed extra nut off left to prevent ground fall
with Tony Marr, Mike Tooke
Moody Loner 23 Jul TR dnf
with John crooks
with John crooks
Fraser hill-casey 23 Jul Lead O/S
with wes, niels
with wes, niels
Alex Mitchell 4 Jul Lead dnf
with M4tt
with M4tt
M4tt 4 Jul 2nd rpt
RM199 23 Jun TR O/S Intended to headpoint but the first crux seemed too runout to commit to the lead (close to ground fall?). Really great climbing though. Maybe one day
Intended to headpoint but the first crux seemed too runout to commit to the lead (close to ground fall?). Really great climbing though. Maybe one day
Anti-faff 2 Jul, 2018 Lead Sporty sport on Jason's gear. Just lovely climbing from bottom to top. The nicest pocket on The NY Moors??
with Jas Wood
Sporty sport on Jason's gear. Just lovely climbing from bottom to top. The nicest pocket on The NY Moors??
with Jas Wood
Graeme Hammond 15 May, 2018 Lead β Thought it would need a clean before climbing but on abseil inspection it appeared surprisingly clean enough. Beautiful climbing. Unseconded
Thought it would need a clean before climbing but on abseil inspection it appeared surprisingly clean enough. Beautiful climbing. Unseconded
spidermonkey ??, 2018 - Great climbing in a lovely setting. Much better route than the other low e classic here - satchmo, which was way harder than than this one. Clean and not green. Feel the pump though
Great climbing in a lovely setting. Much better route than the other low e classic here - satchmo, which was way harder than than this one. Clean and not green. Feel the pump though
climberchristy 20 Jun, 2017 Lead rpt Really enjoyed repeating this. Forgotten how good it is. Still think top move is much harder than 5b.
with LMS
Really enjoyed repeating this. Forgotten how good it is. Still think top move is much harder than 5b.
with LMS
Hidden 20 Jun, 2017 2nd dog
Matthew Ferrier 18 Jun, 2017 Lead rpt
James Oakes 18 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S
amccann 18 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S
Jake Young 18 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S was feeling pretty tired by this point. really secure climbing.
was feeling pretty tired by this point. really secure climbing.
Keith Swainson 6 May, 2017 Lead RP Committing, then pumpy, rest.. then safe technical crux at the end where I hear it should be! Brilliant beginning to end.
Committing, then pumpy, rest.. then safe technical crux at the end where I hear it should be! Brilliant beginning to end.
Georgie25 6 May, 2017 2nd Needed a few rests!
Needed a few rests!
Small and weak ?Sep, 2016 TR dnf Could not sort out the top moves. Kept repeating the rest of it just to enjoy the moves again and again.
Could not sort out the top moves. Kept repeating the rest of it just to enjoy the moves again and again.
Hidden 19 Jul, 2016 Lead RP
Whorlhill 19 Jul, 2016 Lead
Hidden 11 Jun, 2015 Lead β
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 29 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S great
great
Calum Wadsworth 23 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S Great route, not sure what compelled me to warm up on it... Hardest bit it the top but there is a slightly bold section lower down.
Great route, not sure what compelled me to warm up on it... Hardest bit it the top but there is a slightly bold section lower down.
Owen-1992 28 Jun, 2014 Solo O/S I think I've just aged 30 years
I think I've just aged 30 years
robertmctague ??, 2014 Lead β flashed on Theo's gear because we were short on time
flashed on Theo's gear because we were short on time
climberchristy 17 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S A great pitch. Protection Ok with plenty of cams. Top move is harder than 5b?
with Keith Swainson
A great pitch. Protection Ok with plenty of cams. Top move is harder than 5b?
with Keith Swainson
markfairbank 19 Jun, 2013 Lead dnf More like DNS. Good gear comes in the first breaks, moved through to the next big break and lay away hold fully expecting more gear and there was none :( ...moves going higher looked ok but bit bold for me today!
More like DNS. Good gear comes in the first breaks, moved through to the next big break and lay away hold fully expecting more gear and there was none :( ...moves going higher looked ok but bit bold for me today!
Matthew Ferrier 9 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S Really good. Pretty pumpy until the ledge but by then it's pretty much done.
Really good. Pretty pumpy until the ledge but by then it's pretty much done.
Jodgson 9 Jun, 2013 Lead dnf Managed the first half, stupidly decided to rest holding a break, got way too pumped and slipped off. One day.
Managed the first half, stupidly decided to rest holding a break, got way too pumped and slipped off. One day.
Sam Marks 9 Jun, 2013 Lead rpt
with Jack Hodgson, Matthew Ferrier
with Jack Hodgson, Matthew Ferrier
Sam Marks 4 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S What an end to a MAD three days! sustained and brilliant!
What an end to a MAD three days! sustained and brilliant!
Malcolm Bass ??, 2012 Lead O/S Brilliant climb
Brilliant climb
Malcolm Bass ??, 2012 Lead O/S
Narked4fun ??, 2012 -
S Lynch 25 Jul, 2010 -
PeteH 23 Aug, 2009 Lead O/S The best E2 I've done so far; reasonably protected, and the finish is just brilliant.
The best E2 I've done so far; reasonably protected, and the finish is just brilliant.
NaomiHart 23 Aug, 2009 2nd O/S
with PeteH
with PeteH
Hidden 30 May, 2009 Lead O/S
lukehunt 5 Apr, 2009 Lead rpt
Alex Mason 13 Jul, 2008 Lead O/S Got pumped on this, first route in a while good climbing through-out.
Got pumped on this, first route in a while good climbing through-out.
IanJackson 16 Jun, 2008 Lead
with Peter
with Peter
Franco Cookson OLD 9 Jun, 2008 Lead O/S awesome. *** sustained, but good holds and cams.
awesome. *** sustained, but good holds and cams.
Dave Warburton 9 Jun, 2008 Lead O/S Superb, pumpy jug hauling and with positive holds inbetween. It's not exactly runout - have a good selection of Cams at hand and it can be VERY well protected! Did i mention it being pumpy?
Superb, pumpy jug hauling and with positive holds inbetween. It's not exactly runout - have a good selection of Cams at hand and it can be VERY well protected! Did i mention it being pumpy?
Rich Guest 5 Jun, 2008 Lead O/S Rock solid E2. Committing, pumpy and bold. Technically hard at top crack. Not suggesting I'm rock solid at E2... got well messy, but glad to manage to free it onsight all the same
Rock solid E2. Committing, pumpy and bold. Technically hard at top crack. Not suggesting I'm rock solid at E2... got well messy, but glad to manage to free it onsight all the same
Hidden 5 Jun, 2008 Lead O/S
IanJackson 5 Jun, 2008 2nd rpt Lead by Rich Cragrat.
with ShaunL
Lead by Rich Cragrat.
with ShaunL
Ram MkiV 25 May, 2008 Lead O/S
with old man
with old man
Franco Cookson ??, 2008 -
IanJackson 10 Sep, 2007 Lead O/S
with Luke Hunt
with Luke Hunt
Hidden 28 Jun, 2005 Lead O/S
Steve Crowe 18 Apr, 2003 2nd O/S
with karin
with karin
Narked4fun 17 Jun, 1992 -
Rich Kirby ??, 1986 Lead O/S
with Graham Cairns/Ray Kelly
with Graham Cairns/Ray Kelly
Hidden 3 Aug, 1982 Solo β
Tony Marr 10 May, 1980 Lead rpt My first lead ascent.
with Ken Jackson
My first lead ascent.
with Ken Jackson
Tony Marr 6 May, 1979 2nd O/S Paul made a very smooth and impressive lead and I followed. We believe this was the second ascent. A very fine climb.
with Paul Ingham
Paul made a very smooth and impressive lead and I followed. We believe this was the second ascent. A very fine climb.
with Paul Ingham
cenotaphcorner ??, 1979 2nd O/S
with Paul Ingham
with Paul Ingham
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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 16
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 18
Votes cast 17
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Dogged
Not Set