155m, 7 pitches. 1. 15m 4a. Ascend the ramp diagonally up and right to a small chimney. Some fun moves lead to a large ledge at the base of the obvious corner crack.
2. 20m 4b. Climb the obvious corner crack with excellent placements in the thin crack on the left face and excellent holds all round. Continue up onto the ledge below the step open corner with a flake up to the right.
3. 20m 4c/5a. Climb the open corner using the flake to the right, then move across with delicate moves to the left of the corner and mount the ledge on positive holds. Continue up the left of the two obvious cracks. Powerful moves on excellent holds lead to solid block at the top of the well protected crack. Finish at the top of a series of ledges below a blank looking wall.
4. 24m 5b. Traverse left a couple meters to the damp crack round the corner to find some protection. Ascend the corner up and right on good holds to continue the pitch from above the belay. Move right delicately on poor protection to a reasonable hold and up on side pulls up in to the corner. Continue up the corner on some tricky moves and mount the ledge on to good holds. Belay from the large ledge.
5. 15m 3c. This pitch is to avoid rope drag on the pitches before and after. Climb up the ledge to the base of the obvious corner off width.
6. 20m 5a. Climb into the chimney, using the crack on the left for gear. Fun but slightly uncomfortable climbing until the ledge about half way. Continue up the left off width crack with increasing difficulty and awkwardness, taking care not to fall as gear is absent, before finally reaching the ledge and the hold to release you from the mess you have got yourself in to. Alternatively a number 6 cam may reduce the intensity of the finish!
7. 40m 4a. A couple of fun moves lead to an easy scramble to the top.

Mark McKellar, Robert Beddow 21/Jun/2015

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
JuneBob 21 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S First ascent, I led pitches 2, 4, 6, Mark led the others. An improvement would be to start pitch 4 direct, but it's delicate and there's no gear for the first few meters. Great fun, particularly to do a new route. Got rid of a few scary blocks for the rest of you.
with Mark M
First ascent, I led pitches 2, 4, 6, Mark led the others. An improvement would be to start pitch 4 direct, but it's delicate and there's no gear for the first few meters. Great fun, particularly to do a new route. Got rid of a few scary blocks for the rest of you.
with Mark M
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