UKC Logbook - 'Llanfair Groove'

Access Banned

The landowners have have recently become aware of climbing at this site (due to publicity on various websites) and have informed the BMC that although this section of the quarry has not been active for many years, this section is still within the boundaries of a working quarry and public access (other than on the public footpaths that cross the site) is not allowed due to liability and health & safety concerns. It's rare that quarry operatives or security will be aware of climbers here but if climbers are seen they will be politely asked to leave.

Contains a number of newly equipped sports routes as well as some historical routes dating back to the 1950s

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

Drive up Mount Road to a junction by the top most houses in Llanfairfechan. Follow the higher road from the junction until a footpath on the L leads up to a quarry road and then a waymarked traversing path (Wales Coast Path). Follow the path L along the top of a wall until it starts to descend through a gate. Then follow a path rising gently L ward up the hill to the Top Level. The Pinnacle and an old winding house are prominent on the outer edge of the level (on your L on arrival). The Middle and Bottom Levels are reached by descending an incline from the winding house.

Last update: 13/02/2023

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40m. A superb route taking a soaring slabby groove with a steeper mid section. Good climbing nearly all the way with three distinct harder sections.

Start below the outer edge of a very obvious slabby ramp just right of a tree at the base of the crag towards the left end of the Middle Level.

Pull left though a bulge to the ramp. Climb it near its outer edge with delicate moves halfway (options on the inside or an easier zig-zag also available). Continue easily to the steeper section and up this with some difficulty. Climb the pleasant slabby groove above to a small sapling and intermediate lower-off. From here continue straight up delicately with ramps for the feet until handholds over a bulge allow a traverse right past the last bolt to a corner and a finish out right with lower-off. You can get down from here with a 70m rope. A 60m rope can get you down in 2 stages via the intermediate lower-off.

FA. H.Walmsley 06/Aug/2015.