Rockfax Description
The full height of the severely leaning upper headwall is a difficult and serious pitch in an astounding position.
1) 4a, 20m. Pitch 1 of Tophet Wall.
2) 4b, 12m. Climb pitch 2 of Tophet Wall and continue traversing to a spike belay.
3) 7a, 26m. Take the thin crack, passing two pegs, to two more pegs at a jug. Move up to a loose block and poor peg before tackling the fingery upper wall. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A death-defying and audacious route up the smooth impending top wall of the crag. The climbing starts at E8, ramps up in difficulty, with the final move being the hardest. Start at the top of P2 of Tophet Wall.
Climb the thin crack (2 blade pegs) to a good hold (2 pegs). Climb directly to an obvious loose block (very poor thin blade peg) then climb the unrelenting hard and dynamic upper wall leftwards to gain the crux.
J.Dunne and A. Jack Jun/2000.
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Grade: E9 6c ***
(Dove Crag (Dovedale))