3 pitches.
Trad with two bolts.
Starts from same stance as Saiko Roof first pitch...on the far right-hand, lower section of the buttress, usually very green with an initial shallow seam/corner that runs along the wall to higher up you can see the crack open up. Make three or four moves off the ground then use the crack on the right-hand wall to move above and parallel to the previously mentioned route. Head towards dike where there is a solid bolt, move along the dike and up to a rusty ring bolt and then up to the belay on tree. Pitch 2 starts to the immediate left of the belay and heads straight up to another belay on tree. Pitch 3 starts with a 3m traverse to the left to the bottom of a 4m squeeze chimney, #6 and #5 cams used.
A bit of something for everyone!
Starts from same stance as Saiko Roof first pitch...on the far right-hand, lower section of the buttress, usually very green with an initial shallow seam/corner that runs along the wall to higher up you can see the crack open up. Make three or four moves off the ground then use the crack on the right-hand wall to move above and parallel to the previously mentioned route. Head towards dike where there is a solid bolt, move along the dike and up to a rusty ring bolt and then up to the belay on tree. Pitch 2 starts to the immediate left of the belay and heads straight up to another belay on tree. Pitch 3 starts with a 3m traverse to the left to the bottom of a 4m squeeze chimney, #6 and #5 cams used.
A bit of something for everyone!
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Route of Interest
Jack to Mame no Ki
Grade: 5.10b ***
(Ogawayama)