128m, 5 pitches.

Rockfax Description
(The Outside Route) A great climb and by far the best way up The Goat - if you are on the island make the effort to get this one done. The famous jump is now more difficult and dangerous than it used to be due to the wider gap and smaller landing area - it makes more sense to climb across.

1) N3+, 34m. Start at a worn area below the southwest arete of The Goat. Climb a short steep wall then slant left up a rib (or the easier groove on the right) to easy ground. Follow a horizontal crack out right and belay a little higher.
2) N4, 16m. The groove leads to a shoulder, then its continuation ends at a good stance.
3) N5, 30m. Trend left to the base of the prominent crack. Jam this, before moving right then back left to exit onto a slab. A little higher, cross the ridge to reach the huge terrace of Sofen (the sofa) and a super-comfy stance.
4) N5, 30m. Climb over blocks to reach the diagonal cracks that split the face above. The initial wide section is awkward, but then easier climbing leads to the base of a thin section. Head up this by finger-jamming to a stance on the shoulder.
5) N5+, 20m. The diagonal crack splitting the face is the 'West Wall Finish'. Make a hard start, then continue to the notch and a possible stance by a fat old peg. Traverse left across the slab to gain the western arete and finish up this to the tip of the Storhorn. Cross the gap to belay on the Lillehorn. © Rockfax

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Lofoten Rock Top 50.

Katherine Ross 22/Aug 2nd O/S

Great route with fab views. Lower pitches felt stiff for their advertised grades. The offwidth crack on P4 is pretty hilarious! I wimped out of crossing the horns but did at least get a hand and foot over.

Hidden 08/Aug AltLd O/S
dan_waterston 13/Jun 2nd O/S
with Tony McPhillips
Dave Latimer 13/Jun Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Sep/16 Lead O/S
annak 16/Sep/16 AltLd O/S
Big Lee 16/Sep/16 AltLd

Led pitches 1, 3 and 5. Found pitch 3 the toughest and nearly slipped off towards the top. Final pitch was easy with a long reach. Excellent route and perfect weather.

ecromwell 26/Aug/16 AltLd

Led p2 and p4. Fantastic climbing in beautiful positions. One of the best days in Lofoten. Loved P4 getting well involved in the crack. Didn't jump between the horns- the gap is huge!

Hidden 23/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
Clay C 23/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
with George
Hidden 23/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
67hours 23/Aug/16 AltLd O/S


with Clay
MikkoW 20/Aug/16 AltLd
with JVaso
Hidden 20/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
Graeme Hammond 19/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
with Becky E
Hidden 19/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 19/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
MysteriousCeorl 07/Aug/16 AltLd

2,4 smelly belays due to reheated spicy beans the night before :s

with Ewan "Flapper"
Hidden 06/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
dan_o_b 06/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
maumau 30/Jul/16 Lead O/S
cem 29/Jul/16 AltLd rpt

Led p 2 & 3 this time. Another repeat: we had intended to try Englevinger but it wasn't a goer in the conditions.

with Paul Clarkson
bridget143 19/Jul/16 AltLd

Led P2 and P4

with Simen
Hidden 05/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
Mark Kemball 25/Jun/16 AltLd

Led 2, 4 and 5. Great route.

with Chris Calow
ThunderBeest 24/Jun/16 Lead O/S

Too much walking to get there, not nice climbing.

J_Jansen 30/Apr/16 Lead rpt

Fantastic climb. Undoubtedly one of the best in Lofoten, if not the best of its grade. The first two pitches can be done as one if you take care to minimize rope drag and risk of pendulum falls for the follower. Throwing a 240cm sling around the larger horn makes makes the topout a lot more comfortable to protect. The jump is easy, just exposed. Be warned. Should you fall, the risk of serious injury is high. Plenty of broken arms and ribs done there.

Bob Peters 27/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

P3, 4 - amazing introduction to Lofoten climbing. Snuck it in after rain and mizzle. Legged it for the bus to Henningsvaer (which we missed - heads up it's the Leknes bus and you change). easy hithc got us to Gandalf campsite that night anyway, saving ~100NOK

with Joe
Annanor92 12/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Offwidth 3rd pitch, 'interesting climbing' it says in the guid book. Certainly so.

jonnie3430 08/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
with Pete
Paul Figg 07/Jul/15 AltLd
with Rachel Antill
tomdude ?/Jul/15 Lead O/S

probably the largest ratio of time taken to pitches climbed, as we decided to start mid afternoon. many lazy hours on the comfortable belay ledges and abseiled from the summit just after midnight!

with marie
Happy Wanderer 20/Jun/15 AltLd dog

Great climb. P1 harder than p2. P3 an unforgiving crack and p4 a good wide ways battle at the start. Pinged off impossibly long reach move on p5 corner (grrr). Need to be able to do the splits between the horns to set up the abseil.

with Mike D
MD 20/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 1, 3 and 5. I though pitch 1 was considerably harder than the 3+ indicated in the guide and was quite worried about the rest of the climb after completing it. Thankfully pitch 2 graded 4 was much easier. For me the hardest part of the climb was the pitch 3 jamming crack. Pitch 5 has an initial crux which is quite height dependant.

with Jo
Dave Rumney 17/Jun/15 AltLd

Cool route. After 10 days of crap weather, the sun came out and it was nearly quite warm. Summit was occupied by leaping locals making a film. Passed mountain rescue on the walk out which my have been related.

with Tanya Milner
Peter Reynolds ?/Jun/15 Lead
Little AndyH ?/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
TommyKips ?/Jun/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 12/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
alan1234 07/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
with Eirik Nordli
ad111 ?/Jul/14 -
John Nuttall 10/Jun/14 Lead
with Sharon
Hidden 22/Jul/13 AltLd
Kemics 11/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

I led pitches 3 and 5. Pitch 3 was beautiful but felt rushed as we were chased by Swiss guides up the route. Ultra cluster fuck when i misread route and finished up the right horn! The jump actually looks quite tame but declined due to eveyrone's grumpiness, cold, wind and the fact there were 7 climbers at the top at the same time!

with Jukka, Antti
Hidden 10/Jul/13 Lead dnf
inspiration_needed 04/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Lead pitches 1 & 2

with Mat Cooper
Hidden ?/Jul/13 AltLd
Hidden 24/Jun/13 AltLd dog
James Oswald ?/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Great route. Lyndsey lead P1, Clare P2 and P3 and I lead P4 and P5. The route is awesome, great setting with ace climbing. I think that P5 is really height dependent - it felt desperate for Clare and Lyndsey because they couldn't reach the massive jug at the bottom of the groove. Superace team ascent of a really cool pinaccle.

with Lindsay, Clare Erskine
RM199 14/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Aug/12 Lead
Hidden 18/Jul/12 AltLd
Leelogs 05/Jul/12 AltLd
Hidden 05/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
victim of mathematics 05/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

Led P3. More brilliant climbing. The crux move is 4c if you can reach the obvious massive jug, and 5b if you can't.

Hidden 03/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 12/Jun/12 AltLd rpt
Hidden 12/Jun/12 AltLd
Conan 15/Jul/11 AltLd

Great route up this classic crag

with Ken Taylor
Ken Taylor 15/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
with Conan Harrod
Hidden 12/Jul/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 12/Jul/11 2nd
cat22 04/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
with Mike
Hidden 16/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
John Tanner 16/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

I led P1,3&5. Did the jump, way more intimidating than it looks from below! A must do (both the route and the jump!)

mrstarwarsman 16/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
Snecos ??/2011 -
Danhan 18/Aug/10 AltLd
with Nick
Hidden 18/Aug/10 AltLd
tobydunford 05/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
with Mikkel, Bridget Hall
bridget143 05/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Toby P1, me P2, Toby P3, Mik P4, me P5 (no aid and I'm a short arse!)

with Toby Dunford, Mikkel
Hidden 17/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
cem 21/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

In the rain. Led p 1, 3 & 5.

with Dave Amos
tompercy ?/Jun/10 Lead
with Kat Pratschke
Hidden ??/2010 -
Dr Caterpillar 17/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

led p4, bugger doing the jump although sage manned up as per usual

joeydurkin 05/Aug/09 2nd
with Patch
Hidden 05/Aug/09 AltLd
Graham Westbrook ?/Aug/09 AltLd
mattkemp70 ?/Aug/09 AltLd
with Westy
Theeni ?/Aug/09 AltLd
brockers 31/Jul/09 Lead
Hidden 31/Jul/09 2nd
Roch 30/Jul/09 AltLd
with MRT
richardlong78 22/Jul/09 AltLd
with Ginge Moore
Andy Chubb 16/Jul/09 AltLd
with Guy Hustinx
Blisco 13/Jul/09 AltLd O/S

Led p1, 3 and 5. Belayed from the Storhorn as crossing the gap seemed an unnecessary complication. A fantastic climb, the highlight of my trip.

with Peter Skan
chiverstom 09/Jul/09 AltLd O/S

Pitches 1,3,5 and jump!!! Last pitch took 2 hours to lead due to people taking forever to abseil off the top

with Dave Turner
Hidden 07/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 07/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
Joris.Roulleau ?/Jul/09 AltLd
AJ007 ?/Jul/09 AltLd
with John, Helen
Hidden 29/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
dan gibson 29/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
with michael porter
tuukka 20/Jun/09 AltLd
with Hanna
Alasdair Fulton 10/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
andyinglis 10/Jun/09 AltLd O/S

The 'jump' finish was too scary for me!!!

Henrik 04/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
with Thomas
cali1001 ?/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
with jocke
eivindf ??/2009 Lead O/S
Different Steve 29/Jul/08 AltLd O/S

Led P2 & P4 (top pitch) - what a fantastic place to top out!

with Steve Gray & Carol Fowles
Hidden 26/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
tjkk 18/Jul/08 2nd β
9fingerjon ?/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
Alan James - UKC and UKH 16/Jun/08 AltLd
Tim W 18/Aug/07 AltLd O/S

lead pitch 1,2 and 4

Hidden 18/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
Elsier ?/Jul/07 2nd O/S
with Stuart
mattpw ?/Jul/07 AltLd O/S
with Juha Kaupilla
RAK 20/Jul/06 AltLd
with Lauri
NickJH ?/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
with CThistlethwaite, CBradley
Oliver Sherman ?/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
with Brad Jackson
Hidden ?/Jun/06 AltLd dnf
Hidden ??/2006 AltLd O/S
Chris Craggs ?/Aug/05 AltLd
with Colin Binks
alan moore ?/Jul/05 -

First route of our honeymoon. Good VS despite queueing for ever. Did the jump with the Goat casting its shadow across the sea and got down at midnight.

Chris Craggs ?/Aug/04 AltLd

40 years of dreaming. Guide paid for by Sherri - led to a lot!

with Thorbjørn Enevold
Bad Mongo ?/Aug/04 AltLd
Daniel Armitage 22/Jul/04 Lead O/S
with Charlotte Armitage and Mark Senior
TobyA 22/Aug/03 AltLd O/S
with Dave
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High n6-
Mid n6-
Low n6-
High n5+
Mid n5+
Low n5+
High n5
Mid n5
Low n5
Votes cast 20
Votes cast 22
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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Flashed (β)
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