45m, 2 pitches.
This route is usually done in two or three pitches. Begins to the right of the boarded up tunnel on "The Country" Wall at a bolted belay station 30ft up the wall. This station can be reached by traversing ledges from the left (easier) or the right (original route start).
Pitch 1. 5.8+ 20m. Slab climbing past a bolt leads to a flake crack and some blocky climbing. Above this a leftwards traverse leads to a bolted anchor.
Pitch 2. 5.10b 25m. Above the belay is an obvious flake. Access this feature via stacked blocks and gain the flake proper via cruxy moves (5.9+). Follow the flake to its end. From here an obvious crack leads up and slightly rightwards. It begins as fingers and gradually widens to large hand size. It is possible to belay before this crack, but this is not necessary. The pitch ends at a bolted belay on the right after the crack ends.
A further pitch above (5.11?) is rarely done.
The second pitch of HoC is a great choice after the first 2 pitches of GM Route
Pitch 1. 5.8+ 20m. Slab climbing past a bolt leads to a flake crack and some blocky climbing. Above this a leftwards traverse leads to a bolted anchor.
Pitch 2. 5.10b 25m. Above the belay is an obvious flake. Access this feature via stacked blocks and gain the flake proper via cruxy moves (5.9+). Follow the flake to its end. From here an obvious crack leads up and slightly rightwards. It begins as fingers and gradually widens to large hand size. It is possible to belay before this crack, but this is not necessary. The pitch ends at a bolted belay on the right after the crack ends.
A further pitch above (5.11?) is rarely done.
The second pitch of HoC is a great choice after the first 2 pitches of GM Route
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Route of Interest
Libra Crack
Grade: 5.10a ***
(Index Town Wall)