Rockfax Description
II, 300m, 2 hours. A mini-classic and a good place to start for those looking to get fast at snow climbing and moving together.
Approach - Best approached from the Refuge Albert Premier. Gain the Glacier du Tour and climb up the east side of the glacier under the Aiguille du Tour. Head towards the Col Purtscheller and, 500m before the col, go up and left towards the couloir.
Conditions - Good conditions have become increasingly hard to find in the couloir. In early summer, before the heat really kicks in, there should be plenty of snow and all you will need is a good overnight freeze. Without this the couloir will be difficult and dangerous, so try to get a conditions update and a reliable forecast before setting out.
Cross the bergschrund and climb the couloir directly to the col where it meets the Arête de la Table and follow this to the summit. The angle varies from 40 to 50 degrees but, despite the relatively straightforward climbing, good conditions are required. In dry conditions the route takes rockfall and the snow is hard going. The
Descent - The routes can be descended back to the Trient Plateau, usually down the East Face route. From there it is possible to descend back to either hut via the approach route. Alternatively, intead of doing a return trip you can complete a traverse by crossing either the Col Supériuer du Tour or the Col du Tour and swinging back to the Refuge Albert Premier.
The couloir has been 'straightlined' on skis. The second time this was done saw Dominique Potard and Jean-Paul Lassale clock a speed of 150kph as they crossed the bergschrund. How this was measured, and how accurate it is, could be debated but their bravery/madness cannot © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Table Couloir is climbed for 300m from the Glacier du Tour to the summit ridge, which is followed for around 200m to the South Summit, weaving in and out of several small gendarmes and horns. The ridge is significantly harder than PD after heavy snowfall.

Ticklists: Mark's Alpine Ideas 2017, Rosie's Broken Alpine Dreaming.

El_Dave_H 08/Jun/17 AltLd

Much better nick than last time as it was actually frozen. Runnel at the bottom a bit thin and loose but manageable.

scottidog 11/Aug/16 -
peachos 11/Aug/16 AltLd

Final route of the trip. Romped up to the gully then short-pitched the tricky rock band. Not issues in the gully proper, except for the snow & ice being sent our way. Moved together efficiently all the way to the top, including the ridge section at the top. 3.5 hours hut to summit. Walked off with Trev & Helen.

Hidden 19/Jul/16 2nd dnf
Storme 04/Jul/16 AltLd

One of my favourite days, great conditions, fun route with nice scrambling at the top.

Jake397 ?/Jul/16 -
with Storme England
Roger Burrows 28/Jun/16 AltLd O/S

Started at 4am, perfect time to start as we were the first to the bottom. Went well apart from we stayed to the right at the rock step when we should have stayed left and ended up on some very loose rock. fairly easy apart from conditions being very warm and so a fair bit of soft snow.

El_Dave_H 24/Jun/16 AltLd

No freeze, glacier like porridge, couloir melting and awful to climb. Luckily the ridge climbing at the top redeemed it, exposed but easy, on good rock. Descent via the voie normal.

solenostomus 20/Jun/16 AltLd

Climbed the colour after days of heavy snow. Snow conditions in the gully were great, but the subsequent ridge to the summit was gnarly. I climbed with Doug and Chris and Rebecca Wildblood were the second team. Got up in the hut at 4, left at 5, reached summit just after 10.

Doug miller 20/Jun/16 AltLd
adawson 20/Jun/16 AltLd

Stayed at the Albert 1er hut the night before setting off at 5:30, lots of good snow up the couloir but powdery snow on the ridge made it quite sketchy at times. Descended via the normal route and walked down to Le Tour.

lucyvass 20/Jun/16 -
with adam, ash
Ashley King 20/Jun/16 AltLd

Really fun route. Great weather as well! Lots of snow in the couloir so wasn't too hard. Ridge was snowy too which made it a lot scarier though. Well worth doing!

with Lucy Vass, adawson
CameronH 01/Jun/16 -

in lots of snow with one axe, and skis on our packs, made for some sketchy mixed climbing!

MichealMurphy ??/2016 -
Katie S ?/Sep/15 AltLd

Failed to complete route due to poor conditions. Had to back off

Matt Schwarz ?/Sep/15 AltLd
with katie
Hidden 31/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
Avinash Aujayeb 13/Jul/15 2nd O/S
with ales cesen
Rebs 28/Jun/15 AltLd
Hidden 28/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
laurashaw ?/Jun/15 AltLd
with Emily Ford, Ben Cailey
Ian84 ?/Jun/15 AltLd
Eagertom ?/Jun/15 -
Callum Smith 06/Aug/14 AltLd

Great neve, rocky middle section, thin at top. Moved together, worth taking slings for ridge. Super first alpine route. Crystal views.

ian.ross.bnc ?/Aug/14 2nd

with Tom and Georgia, graded as AD- by Laroche & LeLong (2014)

Hidden ?/Aug/14 -
Hidden 26/Jun/14 -
kelliroberts3 26/Jun/14 -
Pete Rigby 26/Jun/14 -
with Kelli Roberts
Hidden 23/Jun/14 AltLd
Hidden 16/Jun/14 -
Lxaddison 16/Jun/14 -

Moved together for route. Snow in okay condition, lower section could have benefited from a bit of consolidation after snowfall previous night.

Whitty2012 16/Jun/14 -
laurence_falconer ?/Jun/14 -
with Hannah Price, Laura Shaw
laurashaw ?/Jun/14 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
Mark Fairhurst ?/Aug/13 Lead O/S
monsteratt 23/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Stepped out in the gully. Very enjoyable descended down normal route and onto the Trient glacier.

with Nick Whimster
nickwhimster 23/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

moved together

jac00 22/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
with Tom
zcsharp 08/Jul/13 Lead

Epic 3, got on it very late when the snow was soft and ended up running down to Le Tour in a thunderstorm.

steve_gibbs 08/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
tomtom89 ?/Jul/13 -
with Jack
Harry Ellis 27/Jun/13 -

Great condition Scottish I gully, II ridge weather cold and windy

with Chris Cox
alexm198 23/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Couloir was in wicked condition but lots of snow on the ridge made it pretty sketchy. Moved together.

with Clara Horswell
thomaspomfrett 22/Jun/13 Solo dnf

Roped solo up to the bottom of the couloir then decided to back off as was like climbing a slush puppy

with Sam Thomas
Mr Fuller 19/Jun/13 AltLd dnf

Got the wrong Couloir... got to the top of the slush and loose rock mess then downclimbed it all...

with Paul Gibbison, Joe Barker
Hidden 18/Jun/13 AltLd
Hidden 18/Jun/13 -
joe hallam 16/Jun/13 Lead

first alpine route. bivi on the glacier and still up later than the french staying at the refuge albert. not best conditions but fantastic nonetheless. Never seen exposure like it.

with Andrew Duncan, paul mahler
Andrew Duncan 16/Jun/13 2nd
masmith 12/Jun/13 AltLd
jack.williams1 12/Jun/13 AltLd
murray ?/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Ryan, Rob
rashwell ?/Jun/13 2nd
Hidden 20/Feb/13 Solo
ceri's 06/Sep/12 -

Moving together (kind of), me last with random protection (ice screw or sling) in between. Thin conditions making for an interesting ascent; needed a sling hand hold at the end to make it to the very top of the Aiguille!

with Charles
Mr. K 04/Sep/12 Lead dnf

Badly out of condition, backed off around the 120m mark after running it out up some terrifyingly rotten rock. With continuous hero neve it must be ace!

Chris_Mullaney 04/Sep/12 2nd
with Mr. K
Hidden 12/Jul/12 -
Harry Thorpe 04/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

First alpine route!

thetradlad 04/Jul/12 Solo O/S

Followed ridge to south Summit

Hidden 02/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Katherine Ross 29/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

Went the wrong way through the rocky bit in the middle and ended up on a chossy deathy scree slope, which was a bit terrifying! Great scramble on the ridge.

trivett 29/Jun/12 -

Couloir was a bit soft and lean... also followed some french people who went the wrong way at the rock step... made for an interesting traverse back to the couloir! Scrambling on the ridge to the summit some of the best I've ever done, amazing route!

with Jane Marsh, Tom Stewardson
jon_ridley 28/Jun/12 AltLd
Webster 28/Jun/12 Solo O/S

soloed couloir, moved together along rock ridge to summit. couloir was broken in the middle creating a loose rock pitch.

becoming-stranger 28/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
Emily Cropton 28/Jun/12 AltLd
Ragingpossum 27/Jun/12 AltLd

Set off slightly later than planned due to sleeping through our alarms. Very pleasant day, with easy climbing and lots of exposure and a simple descent.

with harry kingston
SteveCarratt 27/Jun/12 -
R_W_M 27/Jun/12 -
with Steve C
joelevanschamonix 26/Jun/12 2nd β

with James Clapham
Hidden 17/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Rockley 17/Jun/12 Lead O/S
robthered 06/Jun/12 -

Climbed in not the best conditions, descended it in worse - heavy spindrift coming down couloir. My first Alpine ascent, but believe as it says above: harder than PD in/after wet snow...

Camdenelectric 03/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 29/Jul/11 2nd O/S
Poco Loco 27/Jul/11 Lead

The couloir was in good condition after recent snow. The continuation ridge to the summit was covered in snow and felt like AD... at least.

with SarahF
np134 27/Jul/11 Solo O/S
with C. Price
BALD EAGLE 27/Jul/11 AltLd
with Rob Horler
Hidden 15/Jul/11 -
Kirill 15/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Stewart B 11/Jul/11 Solo

Bare in the middle section and very loose. Good otherwise

ferdia 04/Jul/11 2nd
with Hertha Taverner-Wood, Marcus Horgan, Calum Cuthill
tskelhon ?/Jul/11 AltLd
with Tim Slater, chris davis
allyrocke 19/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Robbie
Phil Jennings 19/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
with Katie Main
philbish 01/Aug/10 -
Krumme 26/Jul/10 Lead
John Roe 19/Jul/10 Lead

The Couloir was laking in snow cover in the mid section

with Liz Featherstone, Will Marshall
Roch 19/Jul/10 2nd
with MRT
GraMc 16/Jul/10 -

gully completely dry, loose and sketchy rock!, i think we acctually climbed the gendarme coluoir which takes a more direct line below the table. first pitch felt about hard severe on loose rock, moved together for the rest

with will lawson
Hidden 08/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 07/Jul/10 AltLd
Hidden 07/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
georgenvk 06/Jul/10 Lead O/S

No snow in mid section,the ridge continuation to the summmit is AD-.

jld579 ??/2010 Lead
Ollie B 09/Jul/09 -
with J.Monypenny
Hidden 09/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
t_stork 09/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
with Marcus Brown
heist182 ?/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
with Jack Metcalfe
Calder 29/Jun/09 -

With minor detour to the table.

ruaidh 28/Jun/09 AltLd O/S

Used couloir as a decent from the ridge.

TimPerkin 26/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
with Colin Beechey
Will Homoky 20/Jun/09 AltLd O/S

Great acclimatization route to South Summit, with fresh snow, icy conditions, and a cloud inversion on the summit. Not so great bivouac on Glacier du Tour the night before.

with Tom Hindson
cmsg 02/Jun/09 -
with Simon Gale
neil.loydon ?/Sep/08 AltLd O/S
with Jamie Foxley
lazyhopkins 04/Aug/08 AltLd O/S

out of condition

with David Thomson; Michael McKensey; Brendan O'Mahoney
Hidden ?/Aug/08 AltLd
jogle03 01/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
chiragshah5001 ?/Jun/08 -
with sam strong
TGreen 16/Jul/07 Solo O/S
Rosie Henstock ?/Jul/07 AltLd O/S
rwm7131 ?/Jul/07 AltLd
matty harrison ?/Jul/07 AltLd
kevburr 22/Jun/07 2nd O/S
with Roger Payne
industrialiceman 21/Jun/07 -
rwm7131 ?/Jun/07 AltLd
Sarah Bough 14/Jun/06 2nd

Down climb

with Oliver Mentz, Ellen Taylor, Jesse Dufton
ellentaylor ?/Jun/06 -

decent from Table. Glissaded the bottom

with Ollie, Jesse, Sarah
gavinjd ??/2006 -
Tarquin ??/2006 -
Hidden ?/Jul/05 Lead
Alpandy ?/Aug/04 AltLd
with Billy
Howard J 07/Aug/03 Lead O/S

John Waterhouse and Nick Brakspear on a separate rope

with Rachel James
NickST ?/Jul/03 -
with Phil Tucker
Hidden 23/Jun/03 Solo
Hidden 06/Aug/01 -
rlrs ?/Aug/99 AltLd
Antony Mariani ?/Aug/99 AltLd O/S
with rlrs
stokesrees ??/1996 Lead
with gilles lalanne
stokienomad 20/Jul/93 AltLd
John Southworth ?/Jul/93 -
Ashley Hold ?/Sep/91 AltLd

Bit of a nightmare as totally devoid of snow - some seriously loose rock, very nearly ended up riding part of it down to the glacier.

with Simon Richards
Laramadness 16/Jul/91 -
with Andy Leaver
Hidden ?/Jul/89 2nd
Hidden 16/Jul/88 Lead
biggianthead 26/Aug/84 -
with G
auldscotal ??/1984 Lead O/S

Ascended couloir, descended normal route. Not sure if year is right.

with Ian Redpath
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