An excellent route following grooves and chimneys up the centre of the steepest buttress in the coire. A short ascending traverse pitch leads to the main groove system.

J. Crawford, D. Dawson & W. Skidmore 01/Feb/1976

Ticklists: Cold Climbs, Cold Climbs (slimmed down).

Mbaillie 19/Mar/18 2nd
Robbie Blease 19/Mar/18 Lead O/S

Not great really. Bold apart from the crux.

gilmour_789 18/Mar/18 AltLd

What a cold windy day! Some old ice and lots of good turf, III 4 felt spot on although there really isn't very much gear

with Andy
Hidden 18/Mar/18 AltLd O/S
Ken Applegate 13/Jan/18 Lead

Good route. Quite exposed climbing, with not a lot of gear, but the turf was bomber.

with Lukas
Hannah Evans 12/Dec/17 AltLd
with Adele Pennington, Lena Brune
mikewilson789 10/Feb/17 2nd dnf

Iain lead the first pitch, but none of the turf was frozen and every thing was covered in deep powder and rubbish ice, so we abbed of from the in situ belay.

with iain Robertson
wheelsucker ??/2017 Lead
Dougbart 07/Mar/16 AltLd
with easers
Hidden 07/Mar/16 AltLd
metrorat 04/Mar/16 Lead
with Jim McFarlane
davesa 16/Jan/16 AltLd

Found this hard for III - possibly the conditions did not help

with Mark Huxham
dan doran 09/Jan/16 AltLd
Hidden 09/Jan/16 AltLd
Colin Mcgregor 09/Jan/16 AltLd

Excellent climb with continued interest throughout. Spicy but well protected crux moving out from under the overhang near the end of pitch one. Recommended!

Andy Syme 14/Mar/15 Lead O/S

Stiff for III and limited pro, except warthogs. That said, its all there, turf was bomber and kept me thoughiy engrossed throughout. Well worth the stars.

with Pete Elliott
johnkeith 06/Feb/15 Solo

Think it was fairly thin today. Ramp was straightforward, but moving up the final steepening before the angle relents felt tricky and committing for a Grade 111.

Hidden 01/Feb/15 2nd
jpc1 26/Jan/15 AltLd

Climbed with Jon Sanders. All good and great to be back out in winter, Raining at the car but turf mostly frozen.

Euan Strachan 21/Feb/13 -

Um, think we may have taken a 'detour' at the the start as the first pitch seemed to end in a overhang. Although other than that it seemed to fit the route description. Awesome route, awesome winter conditions, well protected over the tricky ground, good variety of climbing

Hidden 21/Feb/13 2nd
Hidden 27/Jan/13 -
DougSt ??/2013 AltLd
with Neil Wightwick
lawrenceK 13/Dec/12 Lead
Hidden 13/Dec/12 2nd
niall_mac 01/Feb/12 AltLd
am_bodach 01/Feb/12 AltLd
youarearobot ?/Feb/12 2nd dog

1st time on ice, 1 fall on the 2nd pitch crux!

with Alex Runicman, grady_9
grady_9 ?/Feb/12 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2012 -
Heike 11/Dec/11 -

Bit slushy today on the walk-in and raining, but loads of snow higher up. Couldn't justify any of the harder routes due to lack of frozenness, but West Buttress was a pleasant consolation price, turfed firmed up 60 metres into the route. Good climb.

with Jeremy
drew8connelly ??/2011 -
Captain Solo 21/Dec/10 AltLd

A bit lean so probably a grade harder (than old grade of III).

mikemartin 21/Dec/10 AltLd

Dry turf and limited neve made the going a little harder than expected, done in 3 big pitches.

morsy 27/Nov/10 AltLd
with gerhard mors
morsg 27/Nov/10 -
with morsy
Neilm18 26/Nov/10 AltLd O/S
with Fraser Phillip
Hidden 13/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Mar/10 AltLd
Hidden 21/Feb/10 -
lithos 13/Feb/10 -

I thought hard for III but i am a wuss. Crux pitch (2) is well protected on good foot holds but tricky. Nice route through the cliff. Shared the experience with lovely couple from E'burgh.

Will Smith 13/Feb/10 AltLd O/S

This is a very good route - in my opinion more interesting than the normal version of taxus. We did it in 5 pitches with sustained interest the whole way. I led pitch 1 (easy traverse followed by turfy chimney and traverse to belay - runout!) pitch 3 (awkard icy groove with mainly turf gear) and pitch 5 (long pitch up good snow ice with bomber threads). The crux second pitch is hard and looks unlikely from below - might explain the three lots of ab tat at the first belay!

with lithos
abbeywall 13/Feb/10 AltLd

led 2 and 4 (5 pitches)

with K
glenngordon 07/Feb/10 Lead
with jerry millichip
niallk 03/Jan/10 AltLd O/S

Good route. Steep crux on good holds. Slightly marred by section after this which seemd to wander about a fair bit with little gear. Turf was bomber, absolutely rock solid - it was so frozen that the best bits were those slightly insulated by the snow which you could get your axe further into.

colinthrelfall ??/2010 -
philboy 19/Dec/09 AltLd
with angus, LakesWinter
Hidden 19/Dec/09 AltLd O/S
sgl 26/Feb/06 AltLd
with Konnie
steev 26/Feb/06 AltLd O/S
with Manjoe
Hidden 26/Feb/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2006 -
Jamie B ?/Nov/04 Lead
Hidden ??/2004 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2004 AltLd O/S
Yourlead 28/Dec/03 AltLd

Not in good condition but good climb all the same

with Graham Penny
Hidden 01/Feb/03 -
Andy Say 14/Jan/01 Lead
graeme gatherer ??/2000 -
DaveHK 05/Dec/99 Lead
with Craig Proctor
mark turnbull ??/1999 -
Stuart the postie ??/1998 Solo
innes ??/1997 Solo
Colin McKerrell ??/1995 -
DaveHK 05/Dec/93 AltLd
with Iain Martin
Yourlead 27/Dec/89 AltLd

Just lead the final easy pith

with Graham Penny
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