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UKClimbing Team

70m. A superb mixed route, possibly one of the finest of it's grade in the country? Follows the obvious bottomless chimney-line blocked by a large horizontal roof. Despite its improbable appearance, the chimney provides amenable and well protected climbing, provided the turf is fully frozen.

D.McGimpsey, A.Nisbet 27/Dec/2001

Ticklists

3 star Scottish winter, Winter 19 Hitlist, Scottish invasion

Feedback

UserDateNotes
Nathan Adam 15 Nov, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: The block belay with tat in-situ above the roof near the start of the final pitch is very much detached and waiting to go.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The block belay with tat in-situ above the roof near the start of the final pitch is very much detached and waiting to go.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Malcolm Bass 23 Feb AltLd Good icy conditions, top pitch all on ice
with Jon Gupta
Good icy conditions, top pitch all on ice
with Jon Gupta
Garry_C 15 Nov, 2019 AltLd O/S
with Nathan
with Nathan
Nathan Adam 15 Nov, 2019 AltLd Outstanding climb. Each pitch has real quality, so much packed into 70m. A lot of hoar frost on the route, especially the upper part.
Outstanding climb. Each pitch has real quality, so much packed into 70m. A lot of hoar frost on the route, especially the upper part.
Ali D 13 Nov, 2019 AltLd O/S Brilliant route. A fair bit of clearing needed higher up. Did in 3. I led 1 and 3. Blue sky day but spent a total of 30 seconds in the sun.
with arose
Brilliant route. A fair bit of clearing needed higher up. Did in 3. I led 1 and 3. Blue sky day but spent a total of 30 seconds in the sun.
with arose
arose 13 Nov, 2019 AltLd in three pitches. what a an awesome route!
with Ali D
in three pitches. what a an awesome route!
with Ali D
James Gordon ?Nov, 2019 -
Hidden 14 Apr, 2019 Lead dnf
Hidden 10 Mar, 2019 AltLd dnf
Hidden 2 Feb, 2018 AltLd O/S
davkeo 2 Feb, 2018 AltLd O/S Max stars. Not a bad move on the whole route & the best Iv done at the grade. Tons of variation & interest with hooks, torques, turf, ice, cracks, corners, chimneys, steep bits, technical bits & even a stein pull. Done in 2 big pitches with me linking the first 3 & Tim linking 4&5. My pitch was a mixed climb whereas Tim's was mostly up an icy corner. A great contrast & both equally good. Blue sky day & no wind. We almost didn't make it to the crag at all but my phone app GPS saved the day. First time visit & there's loads of cool looking stuff to come back for. In beautiful nick today. Might be the route of the season.
Max stars. Not a bad move on the whole route & the best Iv done at the grade. Tons of variation & interest with hooks, torques, turf, ice, cracks, corners, chimneys, steep bits, technical bits & even a stein pull. Done in 2 big pitches with me linking the first 3 & Tim linking 4&5. My pitch was a mixed climb whereas Tim's was mostly up an icy corner. A great contrast & both equally good. Blue sky day & no wind. We almost didn't make it to the crag at all but my phone app GPS saved the day. First time visit & there's loads of cool looking stuff to come back for. In beautiful nick today. Might be the route of the season.
Mackinclimb 1 Feb, 2018 AltLd Bailed off 3rd pitch due to iced up cracks.
with Connor Holdsworth
Bailed off 3rd pitch due to iced up cracks.
with Connor Holdsworth
Ken Applegate 11 Jan, 2018 Lead Amazing route, and well worth the long walk-in. We climbed it in three pitches, each of which was brilliant.
with Hannah
Amazing route, and well worth the long walk-in. We climbed it in three pitches, each of which was brilliant.
with Hannah
Hannah Evans 11 Jan, 2018 2nd
graeme gatherer 29 Nov, 2017 - Sustained climbing- brilliant season opener
with Steve Elliot
Sustained climbing- brilliant season opener
with Steve Elliot
Hidden 4 Mar, 2017 -
Hidden 30 Jan, 2011 AltLd
Hidden 30 Jan, 2011 AltLd dnf
MarkGrant 30 Jan, 2011 AltLd
with adw07
with adw07
Hidden 28 Mar, 2009 Lead
Hidden 14 Jan, 2009 AltLd O/S
sgl 14 Jan, 2009 AltLd O/S
with Konnie
with Konnie
Jamie B 11 Mar, 2004 AltLd Best mixed route I've done.
with Alex Glasgow
Best mixed route I've done.
with Alex Glasgow
Hidden ??, 2003 Lead
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Voting
High VI
Mid VI
Low VI
High V
Mid V
Low V
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
Votes cast 13
High 7
Mid 7
Low 7
High 6
Mid 6
Low 6
High 5
Mid 5
Low 5
Votes cast 12
Votes cast 12
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Not Set