An excellent route and a good introduction to Arch Rock. Start at the base of chimney, just to the right of the right-facing corner of Leanie Meanie.
Pitch 1. Climb a flared chimney to a difficult exit move onto a sloping ledge. Enter the squeeze chimney above and climb it until a roof prevents further upward progress. Interesting moves lead around this roof and into a thin-hands crack. This section of crack is the crux of the route and leads eventually to easier climbing and a two-bolt anchor at a tree. 5.10b.
Pitch 2. Follow a short but strenuous wide crack above the belay until it ends. From here an easy traverse leads rightwards to the base of a hand crack. It's possible to belay either before or after the traverse, though the best option is probably to combine this pitch with the 3rd pitch. If doing this, judicious use of hand size pieces is appropriate. 5.9.
Pitch 3. Follow the long and varied hand crack until it ends and belay at slings around a tree. This is one of the best hand cracks in the Valley. 5.9.
While this route has a reasonable amount of off-width / squeeze chimney climbing it is very well protected with a standard rack up to #4BD Camalot and as such is a good introduction to this style of climbing.
Descent by two double rope abseils. (From top tree to top of pitch 1 and from here to the ground).
Pitch 1. Climb a flared chimney to a difficult exit move onto a sloping ledge. Enter the squeeze chimney above and climb it until a roof prevents further upward progress. Interesting moves lead around this roof and into a thin-hands crack. This section of crack is the crux of the route and leads eventually to easier climbing and a two-bolt anchor at a tree. 5.10b.
Pitch 2. Follow a short but strenuous wide crack above the belay until it ends. From here an easy traverse leads rightwards to the base of a hand crack. It's possible to belay either before or after the traverse, though the best option is probably to combine this pitch with the 3rd pitch. If doing this, judicious use of hand size pieces is appropriate. 5.9.
Pitch 3. Follow the long and varied hand crack until it ends and belay at slings around a tree. This is one of the best hand cracks in the Valley. 5.9.
While this route has a reasonable amount of off-width / squeeze chimney climbing it is very well protected with a standard rack up to #4BD Camalot and as such is a good introduction to this style of climbing.
Descent by two double rope abseils. (From top tree to top of pitch 1 and from here to the ground).
Jim Bridwell, Bruce Kumph and Mark Klemens Aug/1970.
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Yosemite Little Walls For Mortals
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Route of Interest
Freewheelin'
Grade: 5.10b ***
(Middle Cathedral Rock)