Can be climbed at 5.9 A0. 1100'. Pleasant route but an unpleasant descent.

Warren Harding 1955

littleluke 30/Sep Lead
Tom.Priestley 17/Sep AltLd O/S

Free'd the orignal version with the 10c slab which i led. Seconds had a nightmare in the chimneys so we got benighted and had to ab the route in the dark. Led P5,6,7,8. Retreat at P8.

with Hinkley Honkley, Scott Quinn
Scott Quinn 14/Sep AltLd

Good route until the chimneys! Tom did a good job climbing the a0 bolt ladder pretty damn thin! abbed off above the second chimney which I dogged the shit out of

niallsash 31/Aug AltLd

Honeymoon route with Vanesa and Andy :-)

conorjclarke 21/Jun AltLd O/S

freed bolt ladder onsight

with Sam Bjork
Hidden 22/May Lead O/S
ErikAndersen ?/Apr AltLd O/S

5.10a 50 Crowded Variation

Pippa 11/Oct/16 AltLd O/S

The best. Descent was fine

67hours 29/Sep/16 AltLd O/S

Lead P2,3,5,7,9. Crux moves through the roof after the bolt ladder is pretty dramatic! Stunning route

with Andrew (ICM)
Hidden 26/Sep/16 AltLd O/S
Martin Bagshaw 26/Sep/16 AltLd rpt

Led most of this, did the bolt ladder variation (and not 50 crowded) this time which was more like 11c, got about 3 clips up before the bolts got too far to the left, even Michael frigged this one! Probably more out of wanting to get up it asap though. More sustained climbing than I remember.

with Andrew porter
Hidden 01/Jun/16 AltLd rpt
Hidden 29/May/16 AltLd O/S
CatMc ?/Oct/15 2nd
with clams
clams ?/Oct/15 Lead

Did 50 crowded variation at 10a. Basically VS with one pitch of E1. P8 and 10 demanding when your tired. Really really bad stomach on this climb. Chuffed to free it

JBO 14/Sep/15 AltLd

Did a weird hybrid of the two variants to avoid a party above, forgetting that that would include the big chimney pitch!

clipskipper 06/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
with Davey Boy
Matt17 ?/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

Did 5.10a variation in 4 hours 15 mins. Best climb I've ever done I think. Loved every pitch!

with Ali
carl_123 12/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 11/Aug/15 AltLd
ThunderBeest 10/Jun/15 2nd dog

Long but beautiful climb, pretty exposed at some points. The bolt ladder is definitely challenging. Make sure to get beta on the abseiling, we did not find it and walked 4-5 hours down in climbing shoes.

eduardo 02/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

Brilliant route, did the right hand 50 Crowded (5.10a, Ian led) option. Fortunately a couple of locals topped out at the same time as us and showed us the descent route, would have been a late finish otherwise. Made it to back to Curry village for a beer in the bar just before 10pm.

with Ian W
chris smith 06/Apr/15 AltLd O/S

Amazing route! A great trad route with an easy bolt ladder mid way up. Don't underestimate the length of this route and the time it takes to do it. Also descent says 4 abseils!!!! We must have went wrong as we did about 9 abs in the dark down chossy gullys.

Hidden 07/Oct/14 AltLd
kingborris ?/Sep/14 2nd O/S
Neil Adams 23/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

Great route. Took the 10a variation to pass another party, which was probably the best pitch on the route!

with Ross B
Hidden 13/Sep/13 2nd
jrobbings ?/Sep/13 Lead
Ross Barnes ?/Sep/13 AltLd
with Neil A
timmeehhhh ?/Jun/13 AltLd

Wound up climbing the wrong way and ended up stuck on a 5.10 runout slab. The ropeteam above me threw down a rope to save my sorry ass. Also lost an approach shoe from my harness and ended up walking the entire descent on my rock-shoes. Still had a wonderfull day tho.

MonkeyDawson ?/May/13 Lead
with Simon Smith
Hidden 13/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
Martin Bagshaw 09/Oct/12 AltLd
Hidden 09/Oct/12 AltLd
Noodles 09/Oct/12 AltLd O/S

Climbed with Michael, what an EPIC route so much fun. Climbed in just over 5 hours, down in 2hrs. Led P1- 2 linked (5.8), P5 (10a awesome face), P8 (5.8) Jenga block belay, and P10 (5.8) awesome jams and thin hands good fingers. A high quality day out!

khawk 28/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
with DT
cat22 24/Sep/12 2nd O/S

Just a comment on the descent - we found the way down with no problems, follow the cairned trail and your instincts! Only 3 short abseils needed, Supertopo description is fine. 50 Crowded variation is excellent.

with Mike
Hidden 02/Jul/12 2nd dog
Pythonist 29/Oct/11 AltLd O/S

Wow - great route, with spectacular views the whole way up. Don't get scared by the grade, the bolts on the 10c slab are about 2ft apart! Lead 1,2,5,7,9,11. Fell off the crux first time, but then decided to Supertopo advice of "Make sure to stay right of bolts" was stupid, and climbed cleanly up the RIGHT side of the brand new bolts. Much easier.

farmus21 12/Oct/11 AltLd
with Sam Radcliffe
samrad 12/Oct/11 AltLd
with james G
Hidden ?/Oct/11 AltLd rpt
Hidden 28/Sep/11 AltLd
DavidR 24/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

8hrs 40 mins to do the route. 3hrs 20 mins to do the awful descent. Did the 5.9 A0 version with the bolt ladder on pitch 5 (after initially trying to free it). Strung pitches 1 and 2 together (lots of rope-drag) and also pitches 3 and 4. I led pitches 1, 2, 5, 7, 10 and 11. Hol led pitches 3, 4, 6, 8 and 9. Amazingly long and hard day, but great climbing. We were really flying early on, but the sheer amount of climbing and heat started to take its toll by the end. Ran out of water at the top, which instilled a great sense of urgency on a descent we were already a little nervous of beforehand. If you do this route, really do pay careful attention to where you're going on the descent. It would be easy to make a mistake, particularly as you're likely to be tired by the end of the climbing (we were!). The 'exposed third class' mentioned in the descent is nervy to say the least, even though it's not terribly hard - one slip and you're a gonner. Each 'single rope' abseil did lead to the next ab point (note - 60 m rope essential), but often only just, and the abseil can be a bit devious in places. I have no idea what the Supertopo guidebook means when it talks about '3 single-rope rappels' either. It was more like 7 or 8. I would urge anyone doing this to heed Supertopo re. taking plenty of water, and be ultra-careful on the descent. I'd hate to have to do any of the descent in fading light - finding the start of the abseils, and each subsequent ab point is not straightforward. Great, great climb though.

Hidden 24/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
mshorter ?/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
Ri ??/2011 AltLd O/S
tuukka 23/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

Did the 5.10a variation

with Maija
Birdo 15/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
with Paul McStumpy
Barry Kerslake 12/Sep/10 2nd O/S
with Luke F
Hidden ?/Sep/10 AltLd
markalmack 12/May/10 AltLd O/S
with Yan
dan gibson 04/May/10 AltLd rpt
with alex scola
innes ?/May/10 Lead
with Ruth
Julesthe1st 03/Nov/09 AltLd O/S
with Mike USA
Hidden 22/Oct/09 AltLd
Hidden 28/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
hlegge 26/Sep/09 2nd

Lightning fast, good climb to finish our trip on. Great lead by Tom

tcn_2002 26/Sep/09 Lead
Hidden 06/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
alex_arthur 30/Jun/09 AltLd
Stig 19/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
with Daniel
Hidden ?/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
david morse ?/Jun/09 AltLd
with todd
Billg 18/May/09 AltLd
with Bob Brewer
nickcanute ?/Oct/08 AltLd
with tim parkinson
Hidden ?/Oct/08 -
Nicos 28/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with aiden jones
Hidden ?/May/08 AltLd
Toby Dunn ?/Sep/07 -
with Lori
DavidEvans 28/Apr/07 AltLd

4.5 hours 1100 feet. Led 2,4,6,8,9,11

with Jules Vulliamy
JulesV 28/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden 03/Oct/06 AltLd
Hidden 03/Oct/06 AltLd
al99 ?/Oct/06 AltLd O/S
with Joe Spoor, Andrew Bitmead
chrishedgehog 03/Jun/05 AltLd O/S

I took over the leading higher up but in truth I think we were both utterly shattered by the end of it. We did Crowded Var which was exposed and sensational. One of my all-time favourite climbs.

with Joe Thompson
Christian Beck ??/2005 AltLd
Hidden 21/Sep/04 AltLd
Hidden ?/Sep/04 -
steveP 04/Jul/04 -

Hugh led the crux

with Chris Wynn, Hugh Cottam
ukb & bmc shark ?/Apr/04 AltLd
Hidden ?/Sep/03 AltLd
Hidden ??/2003 -
Derek Furze ?/Oct/01 -
Simonfarfaraway ?/Jul/00 AltLd

Long fun route. Some very long pitches 60m, which could be split

with Steve Hastings
dan gibson ?/Oct/98 AltLd O/S
with helen gibson
Hidden ?/Aug/98 AltLd O/S
Darron ??/1998 -

Led every pitch. Dark descent. Hitched to Curry. Beer and Pizza in Curry village never tasted so good

migs493 07/Sep/96 AltLd O/S
with Martin Kitson
duncan ?/Jun/96 AltLd O/S

Could be 1997

with Dan Donovan
Derek Ryden ?/Oct/95 AltLd O/S

Can't remember who I climbed this with. Freed the bolt ladder OK.

K1 ?/Sep/94 AltLd
with Dave Tipping
Hidden 07/Sep/93 -
Hidden 26/May/93 2nd
Mystery Toad ??/1985 AltLd O/S

The East Buttress is another Valley classic offering moderate exposed trad (with the option of a bolt ladder crux) but be careful on the descent: one can get lost. Be certain to carry torches.

neil3965 ?/May/84 AltLd
with Pete McKenzie
Andy Chadwick ??/1982 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Oct/81 AltLd
Hidden ?/Oct/78 Lead O/S
jon 13/Sep/78 AltLd
with Elaine, Vic
petemeads ?/Jun/77 AltLd

We took the 5.9 A0 option and used the bolt ladder - better in keeping with the rest of the route. And easier...

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