UKC
300m, 8 pitches. One of the finest crack climbs in the valley. 8 pitches of sustained jamming of all sizes on flawless rock.
Pitch 1. 5.9. Layback flake to chimney.
Pitch 2, Left Variation. 5.11a. Step down and left to the thin crack and follow it to the upper, easier crack.
Pitch 2, Centre Variation. 5.10a. Lieback the flake (unprotected without large cams) above the belay eventually joining the left variation. Best choice if you want to link first two pitches.
Pitch 2, Right Variation. 5.10d. Climb the flare through a brief crux before traversing left into the upper crack of the first two variations.
Pitch 3. 5.10c. A polished lieback of the belay leads to varied jamming / liebacking for almost a full rope length. Finishes on a broad ledge.
Pitch 4. 5.11c. The obvious finger crack is one of the cruxes of the route. Follow this for 20m to a bolted belay, but don't stop here. Traverse left, and follow the right facing corner to another bolted belay.
Pitch 5. 5.10d. A long clean thin hands crack in a corner leads to a roof. Lieback around the roof and step left to gain a sloping ledge and a belay.
Pitch 6. 5.10a. Make a traverse rightwards off the belay to gain a good crack. Follow this as it widens to an off width. At the top of the off width gain a ledge, (usually caked in bird droppings) on the right.
Pitch 7. 5.11b. Up a hands/big hands crack with a difficult crux. This leads eventually to a ledge under a large roof. Belay here.
Pitch 8. 5.9. Traverse the ledge rightwards (probably through more bird droppings) to the base of a wide crack. A difficult entry move leads to easier climbing. This pitch can be protected with a #6 BD camalot, but it is easy to lose this cam deep in the crack. Alternatively finish directly through the roof (Alien).
Pitch 1. 5.9. Layback flake to chimney.
Pitch 2, Left Variation. 5.11a. Step down and left to the thin crack and follow it to the upper, easier crack.
Pitch 2, Centre Variation. 5.10a. Lieback the flake (unprotected without large cams) above the belay eventually joining the left variation. Best choice if you want to link first two pitches.
Pitch 2, Right Variation. 5.10d. Climb the flare through a brief crux before traversing left into the upper crack of the first two variations.
Pitch 3. 5.10c. A polished lieback of the belay leads to varied jamming / liebacking for almost a full rope length. Finishes on a broad ledge.
Pitch 4. 5.11c. The obvious finger crack is one of the cruxes of the route. Follow this for 20m to a bolted belay, but don't stop here. Traverse left, and follow the right facing corner to another bolted belay.
Pitch 5. 5.10d. A long clean thin hands crack in a corner leads to a roof. Lieback around the roof and step left to gain a sloping ledge and a belay.
Pitch 6. 5.10a. Make a traverse rightwards off the belay to gain a good crack. Follow this as it widens to an off width. At the top of the off width gain a ledge, (usually caked in bird droppings) on the right.
Pitch 7. 5.11b. Up a hands/big hands crack with a difficult crux. This leads eventually to a ledge under a large roof. Belay here.
Pitch 8. 5.9. Traverse the ledge rightwards (probably through more bird droppings) to the base of a wide crack. A difficult entry move leads to easier climbing. This pitch can be protected with a #6 BD camalot, but it is easy to lose this cam deep in the crack. Alternatively finish directly through the roof (Alien).
Glen Denny, Warren Harding (FA 7/62). Ron Kauk, John Yablonski (FFA to last pitch). Kim Carrigan et al. (FFA, all pitches) 1985
Ticklists: Tom Randalls Classic Finger Cracks.
| Climber | Date | Style | Notes & Partners |
|---|---|---|---|
| C coldwell-storry | 06/Oct/16 | AltLd O/S | with the jew |
with the jew | |||
| DavidEvans | 28/Sep/16 | AltLd dog | Led 2,4,7 - got absolutely destroyed this time! Multiple rests and could barely follow some of the pitches. Aid climbed pitch 7! with Jules Vulliamy |
Led 2,4,7 - got absolutely destroyed this time! Multiple rests and could barely follow some of the pitches. Aid climbed pitch 7! with Jules Vulliamy | |||
| ferdia | 09/Oct/15 | AltLd | with Andy Moles |
with Andy Moles | |||
| Andy Moles | 09/Oct/15 | AltLd | with Ferdia |
with Ferdia | |||
| sparkass | 02/Sep/15 | AltLd | Managed to onsight everything and take all the harder variants, except one fall on the 10a offwidth. Gutted to blight an otherwise flawless ascent. All incredible, one of the most consistently good routes I have ever done. Top offwidth has visibly eaten multiple cams so a 30 metre runout keeps the interest right until the end. with Mike Shorter |
Managed to onsight everything and take all the harder variants, except one fall on the 10a offwidth. Gutted to blight an otherwise flawless ascent. All incredible, one of the most consistently good routes I have ever done. Top offwidth has visibly eaten multiple cams so a 30 metre runout keeps the interest right until the end. with Mike Shorter | |||
| mshorter | ?/Sep/15 | AltLd | All onsight apart from the second easiest pitch on paper - the 5.10a off width struggle. Took the harder variation on the second pitch and second last pitch. Mega with dunc |
All onsight apart from the second easiest pitch on paper - the 5.10a off width struggle. Took the harder variation on the second pitch and second last pitch. Mega with dunc | |||
| Hidden | ?/Sep/15 | AltLd rpt | |
| markalmack | 30/Sep/13 | AltLd rpt | Found this harder than I remember, especially the offwidth. Hands were sore today. Wasn't loving the hand jams like I usually do. with Catalyn |
Found this harder than I remember, especially the offwidth. Hands were sore today. Wasn't loving the hand jams like I usually do. with Catalyn | |||
| Alasdair Fulton | 24/Sep/13 | AltLd | James led Pitches 1(o/s), 3(o/s), 5(small slip/big whipper just before belay) and aided 7. I led 2 (o/s), 4(o/s), 6 (stood on #5cam by mistake) and 8. Marvelous and exhausting day out. with James Sutton |
James led Pitches 1(o/s), 3(o/s), 5(small slip/big whipper just before belay) and aided 7. I led 2 (o/s), 4(o/s), 6 (stood on #5cam by mistake) and 8. Marvelous and exhausting day out. with James Sutton | |||
| Hidden | ?/Mar/13 | AltLd rpt | |
| Ed Booth | 23/Sep/12 | Lead | led up to midway ledge. Couple of falls on the main crack pitch up high. Lowered off as was all day knackt and bailed off ledge. with Adam Booth |
led up to midway ledge. Couple of falls on the main crack pitch up high. Lowered off as was all day knackt and bailed off ledge. with Adam Booth | |||
| Adam Booth | 23/Sep/12 | AltLd | To half way ledge with Ed Booth |
To half way ledge with Ed Booth | |||
| tuukka | 13/Sep/12 | AltLd | Onsighted all my pitches (1, 2, 3.5, 4, 5, 6.5 (ow), 7 & 8), partner used some french free on his leads. Long day, excellent route. with Henrik |
Onsighted all my pitches (1, 2, 3.5, 4, 5, 6.5 (ow), 7 & 8), partner used some french free on his leads. Long day, excellent route. with Henrik | |||
| spidey | 08/Oct/11 | AltLd dog | with ryan p |
with ryan p | |||
| Hidden | ?/Oct/11 | AltLd O/S | |
| markalmack | 30/Sep/10 | AltLd rpt | sent with no gear bigger than a 3 camalot. amit onsighted it.... very slowly. really hot. propper shit show from parties above! with amit tawfik |
sent with no gear bigger than a 3 camalot. amit onsighted it.... very slowly. really hot. propper shit show from parties above! with amit tawfik | |||
| markalmack | 24/Sep/10 | AltLd dog | Still had problems on the offwidth pitch. Fell on the alien finish. |
Still had problems on the offwidth pitch. Fell on the alien finish. | |||
| AdrianP | 01/Oct/09 | AltLd O/S | Maybe the best trad route I've climbed. Pitches 4, 6 and 7 were the hardest. (Easy to do the ab approach down in bare feet or in climbing shoes, you can stash food and drink at the halfway ledge on the way down.) with Olli |
Maybe the best trad route I've climbed. Pitches 4, 6 and 7 were the hardest. (Easy to do the ab approach down in bare feet or in climbing shoes, you can stash food and drink at the halfway ledge on the way down.) with Olli | |||
| DavidEvans | 11/Sep/09 | AltLd O/S | Led 2,3,4,6,8. Pitches 1-4 11/09, ran out of water. Pitches 4-8 13/09. My personal finest climbing achievement. That was my first ever 5.10 OW. Hard work. Awesome. with adam ellwood |
Led 2,3,4,6,8. Pitches 1-4 11/09, ran out of water. Pitches 4-8 13/09. My personal finest climbing achievement. That was my first ever 5.10 OW. Hard work. Awesome. with adam ellwood | |||
| highlux | ?/Sep/09 | AltLd dog | Amazing route! Would love to return for a clean ascent. Fell on the crux pitch and in the 10a offwidth! |
Amazing route! Would love to return for a clean ascent. Fell on the crux pitch and in the 10a offwidth! | |||
| markalmack | ?/Sep/08 | Lead dog | i hate off widths!!!! with federico pisani |
i hate off widths!!!! with federico pisani | |||
| IOAN D | 31/Oct/07 | Lead O/S | superb! best climb ever with Mills |
superb! best climb ever with Mills | |||
| Toby Dunn | ?/Oct/07 | - | with dustin |
with dustin | |||
| keefe | 02/Apr/04 | Lead O/S | |
| redjerry | 17/Aug/02 | AltLd O/S | with Josh Horniak |
with Josh Horniak | |||
| Dave Musgrove Jnr | ?/Aug/02 | Lead O/S | Completely awesome. Enjoyed every pitch. Picth 7 was one of the best pitches I've ever done. Steep and demanding. Great seconding effort by Viv. with Viv |
Completely awesome. Enjoyed every pitch. Picth 7 was one of the best pitches I've ever done. Steep and demanding. Great seconding effort by Viv. with Viv | |||
| sadams | ?/Oct/99 | AltLd | with John Boyle |
with John Boyle | |||
| ukb & bmc shark | 26/Apr/97 | AltLd O/S | with Brad Carter |
with Brad Carter | |||
| Hidden | ?/May/94 | AltLd | |
| duncan | ?/May/84 | AltLd O/S | with Mark Rolofson |
with Mark Rolofson | |||
| petemeads | ?/Oct/78 | AltLd | At the time we attempted this, only Ray Jardine had freeclimbed the last pitch (and some locals found this hard to believe) so were unsurprised to find we had to aid it. Otherwise a brilliant route, hats off to those who solo it now! with Andy Parkin |
At the time we attempted this, only Ray Jardine had freeclimbed the last pitch (and some locals found this hard to believe) so were unsurprised to find we had to aid it. Otherwise a brilliant route, hats off to those who solo it now! with Andy Parkin | |||
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Not Set