300m, 8 pitches. One of the finest crack climbs in the valley. 8 pitches of sustained jamming of all sizes on flawless rock.

Pitch 1. 5.9. Layback flake to chimney.

Pitch 2, Left Variation. 5.11a. Step down and left to the thin crack and follow it to the upper, easier crack.

Pitch 2, Centre Variation. 5.10a. Lieback the flake (unprotected without large cams) above the belay eventually joining the left variation. Best choice if you want to link first two pitches.

Pitch 2, Right Variation. 5.10d. Climb the flare through a brief crux before traversing left into the upper crack of the first two variations.

Pitch 3. 5.10c. A polished lieback of the belay leads to varied jamming / liebacking for almost a full rope length. Finishes on a broad ledge.

Pitch 4. 5.11c. The obvious finger crack is one of the cruxes of the route. Follow this for 20m to a bolted belay, but don't stop here. Traverse left, and follow the right facing corner to another bolted belay.

Pitch 5. 5.10d. A long clean thin hands crack in a corner leads to a roof. Lieback around the roof and step left to gain a sloping ledge and a belay.

Pitch 6. 5.10a. Make a traverse rightwards off the belay to gain a good crack. Follow this as it widens to an off width. At the top of the off width gain a ledge, (usually caked in bird droppings) on the right.

Pitch 7. 5.11b. Up a hands/big hands crack with a difficult crux. This leads eventually to a ledge under a large roof. Belay here.

Pitch 8. 5.9. Traverse the ledge rightwards (probably through more bird droppings) to the base of a wide crack. A difficult entry move leads to easier climbing. This pitch can be protected with a #6 BD camalot, but it is easy to lose this cam deep in the crack. Alternatively finish directly through the roof (Alien).

Glen Denny, Warren Harding (FA 7/62). Ron Kauk, John Yablonski (FFA to last pitch). Kim Carrigan et al. (FFA, all pitches) 1985

Ticklists: Tom Randalls Classic Finger Cracks, The Lifetime List.

Hidden 30/Oct/17 Lead O/S
ErikAndersen 17/Oct/17 AltLd

Led pitches 2,4,6&8. Took a couple falls at the finger crack at the start of p2, falling below my belayer, then climbed back up to the route and led the pitch clean. My send go on p2 didn't include the stepping left move off the belay since re-leading that move would have involved climbing back onto the route, climbing back right to the belay then just reversing that same move (seemed kinda pointless since I got to do a couple extra moves getting back up to the level of the route) Everything else went clean with no falls. Psyched!

with Dave Hein
ErikAndersen 05/Oct/17 AltLd dog

Did the first 3 pitches clean then dogged the rest. Will come back for the full clean send.

with Blue Ring
Tom.Priestley 25/Sep/17 AltLd O/S

Awesome, hardest route of my life! Thought I was gone on every pitch. Lead P2,4,6,8.

with Shaun
Hidden 24/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
colesy 24/Aug/17 AltLd O/S


with ali
C coldwell-storry 06/Oct/16 AltLd O/S
with the jew
DavidEvans 28/Sep/16 AltLd dog

Led 2,4,7 - got absolutely destroyed this time! Multiple rests and could barely follow some of the pitches. Aid climbed pitch 7!

with Jules Vulliamy
ferdia 09/Oct/15 AltLd
Andy Moles 09/Oct/15 AltLd
with Ferdia
AnnaBacklund ?/Oct/15 2nd
sparkass 02/Sep/15 AltLd

Managed to onsight everything and take all the harder variants, except one fall on the 10a offwidth. Gutted to blight an otherwise flawless ascent. All incredible, one of the most consistently good routes I have ever done. Top offwidth has visibly eaten multiple cams so a 30 metre runout keeps the interest right until the end.

mshorter ?/Sep/15 AltLd

All onsight apart from the second easiest pitch on paper - the 5.10a off width struggle. Took the harder variation on the second pitch and second last pitch. Mega

with dunc
Hidden ?/Sep/15 AltLd rpt
markalmack 30/Sep/13 AltLd rpt

Found this harder than I remember, especially the offwidth. Hands were sore today. Wasn't loving the hand jams like I usually do.

with Catalyn
Alasdair Fulton 24/Sep/13 AltLd

James led Pitches 1(o/s), 3(o/s), 5(small slip/big whipper just before belay) and aided 7. I led 2 (o/s), 4(o/s), 6 (stood on #5cam by mistake) and 8. Marvelous and exhausting day out.

with James Sutton
Hidden ?/Mar/13 AltLd rpt
Ed Booth 23/Sep/12 Lead

led up to midway ledge. Couple of falls on the main crack pitch up high. Lowered off as was all day knackt and bailed off ledge.

Adam Booth 23/Sep/12 AltLd

To half way ledge

tuukka 13/Sep/12 AltLd

Onsighted all my pitches (1, 2, 3.5, 4, 5, 6.5 (ow), 7 & 8), partner used some french free on his leads. Long day, excellent route.

with Henrik
spidey 08/Oct/11 AltLd dog
with ryan p
Hidden ?/Oct/11 AltLd O/S
markalmack 30/Sep/10 AltLd rpt

sent with no gear bigger than a 3 camalot. amit onsighted it.... very slowly. really hot. propper shit show from parties above!

with amit tawfik
markalmack 24/Sep/10 AltLd dog

Still had problems on the offwidth pitch. Fell on the alien finish.

AdrianP 01/Oct/09 AltLd O/S

Maybe the best trad route I've climbed. Pitches 4, 6 and 7 were the hardest. (Easy to do the ab approach down in bare feet or in climbing shoes, you can stash food and drink at the halfway ledge on the way down.)

with Olli
DavidEvans 11/Sep/09 AltLd O/S

Led 2,3,4,6,8. Pitches 1-4 11/09, ran out of water. Pitches 4-8 13/09. My personal finest climbing achievement. That was my first ever 5.10 OW. Hard work. Awesome.

Adam Ellwood 11/Sep/09 AltLd

Top flare was gripping and resorted to aid with a single big cam.

highlux ?/Sep/09 AltLd dog

Amazing route! Would love to return for a clean ascent. Fell on the crux pitch and in the 10a offwidth!

markalmack ?/Sep/08 Lead dog

i hate off widths!!!!

with federico pisani
IOAN D 31/Oct/07 Lead O/S

superb! best climb ever

with Mills
Toby Dunn ?/Oct/07 -
with dustin
keefe 02/Apr/04 Lead O/S
redjerry 17/Aug/02 AltLd O/S
with Josh Horniak
Dave Musgrove Jnr ?/Aug/02 Lead O/S

Completely awesome. Enjoyed every pitch. Picth 7 was one of the best pitches I've ever done. Steep and demanding. Great seconding effort by Viv.

with Viv
sadams ?/Oct/99 AltLd
with John Boyle
ukb & bmc shark 26/Apr/97 AltLd O/S
with Brad Carter
Hidden ?/May/94 AltLd
duncan ?/May/84 AltLd O/S
with Mark Rolofson
petemeads ?/Oct/78 AltLd

At the time we attempted this, only Ray Jardine had freeclimbed the last pitch (and some locals found this hard to believe) so were unsurprised to find we had to aid it. Otherwise a brilliant route, hats off to those who solo it now!

with Andy Parkin
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High 5.11d
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High 5.11b
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