300m, 8 pitches. One of the finest crack climbs in the valley. 8 pitches of sustained jamming of all sizes on flawless rock.

Pitch 1. 5.9. Layback flake to chimney.

Pitch 2, Left Variation. 5.11a. Step down and left to the thin crack and follow it to the upper, easier crack.

Pitch 2, Centre Variation. 5.10a. Lieback the flake (unprotected without large cams) above the belay eventually joining the left variation. Best choice if you want to link first two pitches.

Pitch 2, Right Variation. 5.10d. Climb the flare through a brief crux before traversing left into the upper crack of the first two variations.

Pitch 3. 5.10c. A polished lieback of the belay leads to varied jamming / liebacking for almost a full rope length. Finishes on a broad ledge.

Pitch 4. 5.11c. The obvious finger crack is one of the cruxes of the route. Follow this for 20m to a bolted belay, but don't stop here. Traverse left, and follow the right facing corner to another bolted belay.

Pitch 5. 5.10d. A long clean thin hands crack in a corner leads to a roof. Lieback around the roof and step left to gain a sloping ledge and a belay.

Pitch 6. 5.10a. Make a traverse rightwards off the belay to gain a good crack. Follow this as it widens to an off width. At the top of the off width gain a ledge, (usually caked in bird droppings) on the right.

Pitch 7. 5.11b. Up a hands/big hands crack with a difficult crux. This leads eventually to a ledge under a large roof. Belay here.

Pitch 8. 5.9. Traverse the ledge rightwards (probably through more bird droppings) to the base of a wide crack. A difficult entry move leads to easier climbing. This pitch can be protected with a #6 BD camalot, but it is easy to lose this cam deep in the crack. Alternatively finish directly through the roof (Alien).

Glen Denny, Warren Harding (FA 7/62). Ron Kauk, John Yablonski (FFA to last pitch). Kim Carrigan et al. (FFA, all pitches) 1985

Ticklists

Tom Randalls Classic Finger Cracks, The Lifetime List

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Hidden 21 Nov Lead O/S
Hidden 23 Oct AltLd
Hidden 3 Oct Lead rpt
Paul Collins 28 Sep AltLd
George Ponsonby 28 Sep AltLd O/S
mcgovern 5 Oct, 2018 AltLd 6 pitches and then it got dark so abbed to the ledge and walked off, amazing route!
6 pitches and then it got dark so abbed to the ledge and walked off, amazing route!
Hidden 2 Oct, 2018 AltLd
Hidden ?Sep, 2018 2nd rpt
Hidden 30 Oct, 2017 Lead O/S
Hidden 17 Oct, 2017 AltLd
Hidden 5 Oct, 2017 AltLd dog
Tom.Priestley 25 Sep, 2017 AltLd O/S Awesome, hardest route of my life! Thought I was gone on every pitch. Lead P2,4,6,8.
with Shaun
Awesome, hardest route of my life! Thought I was gone on every pitch. Lead P2,4,6,8.
with Shaun
Hidden 24 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
colesy 24 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S Brilliant.
with ali k
Brilliant.
with ali k
C coldwell-storry 6 Oct, 2016 AltLd O/S
with the jew
with the jew
JulesV 28 Sep, 2016 AltLd dog Knee stuck on the 5.11b offwidth pitch. Ended up resting on gear and taking about 10 minutes to get it out then dogged the rest of the pitch as I didn't want to risk jamming my knee again. Scary!
Knee stuck on the 5.11b offwidth pitch. Ended up resting on gear and taking about 10 minutes to get it out then dogged the rest of the pitch as I didn't want to risk jamming my knee again. Scary!
DavidEvans 28 Sep, 2016 AltLd dog Led 2,4,7 - got absolutely destroyed this time! Multiple rests and could barely follow some of the pitches. Aid climbed pitch 7!
with Jules Vulliamy
Led 2,4,7 - got absolutely destroyed this time! Multiple rests and could barely follow some of the pitches. Aid climbed pitch 7!
with Jules Vulliamy
ferdia 9 Oct, 2015 AltLd
Andy Moles 9 Oct, 2015 AltLd A grand beasting!
with ferdia
A grand beasting!
with ferdia
AnnaBacklund ?Oct, 2015 2nd
sparkass 2 Sep, 2015 AltLd Managed to onsight everything and take all the harder variants, except one fall on the 10a offwidth. Gutted to blight an otherwise flawless ascent. All incredible, one of the most consistently good routes I have ever done. Top offwidth has visibly eaten multiple cams so a 30 metre runout keeps the interest right until the end.
Managed to onsight everything and take all the harder variants, except one fall on the 10a offwidth. Gutted to blight an otherwise flawless ascent. All incredible, one of the most consistently good routes I have ever done. Top offwidth has visibly eaten multiple cams so a 30 metre runout keeps the interest right until the end.
mshorter ?Sep, 2015 AltLd All onsight apart from the second easiest pitch on paper - the 5.10a off width struggle. Took the harder variation on the second pitch and second last pitch. Mega
All onsight apart from the second easiest pitch on paper - the 5.10a off width struggle. Took the harder variation on the second pitch and second last pitch. Mega
Hidden ?Sep, 2015 AltLd rpt
markalmack 30 Sep, 2013 AltLd rpt Found this harder than I remember, especially the offwidth. Hands were sore today. Wasn't loving the hand jams like I usually do.
with Catalyn
Found this harder than I remember, especially the offwidth. Hands were sore today. Wasn't loving the hand jams like I usually do.
with Catalyn
Alasdair Fulton 24 Sep, 2013 AltLd James led Pitches 1(o/s), 3(o/s), 5(small slip/big whipper just before belay) and aided 7. I led 2 (o/s), 4(o/s), 6 (stood on #5cam by mistake) and 8. Marvelous and exhausting day out.
with James Sutton
James led Pitches 1(o/s), 3(o/s), 5(small slip/big whipper just before belay) and aided 7. I led 2 (o/s), 4(o/s), 6 (stood on #5cam by mistake) and 8. Marvelous and exhausting day out.
with James Sutton
Hidden ?Mar, 2013 AltLd rpt
Ed Booth 23 Sep, 2012 Lead led up to midway ledge. Couple of falls on the main crack pitch up high. Lowered off as was all day knackt and bailed off ledge.
led up to midway ledge. Couple of falls on the main crack pitch up high. Lowered off as was all day knackt and bailed off ledge.
Adam Booth 23 Sep, 2012 AltLd To half way ledge
To half way ledge
Hidden 13 Sep, 2012 AltLd
spidey 8 Oct, 2011 AltLd dog
with ryan p
with ryan p
Hidden ?Oct, 2011 AltLd O/S
markalmack 30 Sep, 2010 AltLd rpt sent with no gear bigger than a 3 camalot. amit onsighted it.... very slowly. really hot. propper shit show from parties above!
with amit tawfik
sent with no gear bigger than a 3 camalot. amit onsighted it.... very slowly. really hot. propper shit show from parties above!
with amit tawfik
markalmack 24 Sep, 2010 AltLd dog Still had problems on the offwidth pitch. Fell on the alien finish.
Still had problems on the offwidth pitch. Fell on the alien finish.
AdrianP 1 Oct, 2009 AltLd O/S Maybe the best trad route I've climbed. Pitches 4, 6 and 7 were the hardest. (Easy to do the ab approach down in bare feet or in climbing shoes, you can stash food and drink at the halfway ledge on the way down.)
with Olli
Maybe the best trad route I've climbed. Pitches 4, 6 and 7 were the hardest. (Easy to do the ab approach down in bare feet or in climbing shoes, you can stash food and drink at the halfway ledge on the way down.)
with Olli
DavidEvans 11 Sep, 2009 AltLd O/S Led 2,3,4,6,8. Pitches 1-4 11/09, ran out of water. Pitches 4-8 13/09. My personal finest climbing achievement. That was my first ever 5.10 OW. Hard work. Awesome.
Led 2,3,4,6,8. Pitches 1-4 11/09, ran out of water. Pitches 4-8 13/09. My personal finest climbing achievement. That was my first ever 5.10 OW. Hard work. Awesome.
Adam Ellwood 11 Sep, 2009 AltLd Top flare was gripping and resorted to aid with a single big cam.
Top flare was gripping and resorted to aid with a single big cam.
highlux ?Sep, 2009 AltLd dog Amazing route! Would love to return for a clean ascent. Fell on the crux pitch and in the 10a offwidth!
Amazing route! Would love to return for a clean ascent. Fell on the crux pitch and in the 10a offwidth!
markalmack ?Sep, 2008 Lead dog i hate off widths!!!!
with federico pisani
i hate off widths!!!!
with federico pisani
IOAN D 31 Oct, 2007 Lead O/S superb! best climb ever
with Mills
superb! best climb ever
with Mills
Toby Dunn ?Oct, 2007 -
with dustin
with dustin
Matt Clifton ?Sep, 2007 Lead O/S done in two chunks - from the half height ledge with Andy D in a couple of hours whilst he was showing parents around Yosemite in 2000. Went back to do whole thing with Woody and we got rained off at the half height ledge - in all took 7 years to climb it!
with Andy Donson
done in two chunks - from the half height ledge with Andy D in a couple of hours whilst he was showing parents around Yosemite in 2000. Went back to do whole thing with Woody and we got rained off at the half height ledge - in all took 7 years to climb it!
with Andy Donson
keefe 2 Apr, 2004 Lead O/S
redjerry 17 Aug, 2002 AltLd O/S
with Josh Horniak
with Josh Horniak
Dave Musgrove Jnr ?Aug, 2002 Lead O/S Completely awesome. Enjoyed every pitch. Picth 7 was one of the best pitches I've ever done. Steep and demanding. Great seconding effort by Viv.
with Viv
Completely awesome. Enjoyed every pitch. Picth 7 was one of the best pitches I've ever done. Steep and demanding. Great seconding effort by Viv.
with Viv
sadams ?Oct, 1999 AltLd
with John Boyle
with John Boyle
UKB Shark 26 Apr, 1997 AltLd O/S
with Brad Carter
with Brad Carter
Neil McA 9 Jun, 1989 AltLd O/S Fantastic route, sustained and varied. Great finger crack 11c pitch, some spooky off widths (especially pre-big cams). Laybacked the final pitch in the corner, felt more like 10c and committing. This is the perfect Astro Man training route - did this 2 days later.
with Guy
Fantastic route, sustained and varied. Great finger crack 11c pitch, some spooky off widths (especially pre-big cams). Laybacked the final pitch in the corner, felt more like 10c and committing. This is the perfect Astro Man training route - did this 2 days later.
with Guy
duncan ?May, 1984 AltLd O/S
with Mark Rolofson
with Mark Rolofson
petemeads ?Oct, 1978 AltLd At the time we attempted this, only Ray Jardine had freeclimbed the last pitch (and some locals found this hard to believe) so were unsurprised to find we had to aid it. Otherwise a brilliant route, hats off to those who solo it now!
with Andy Parkin
At the time we attempted this, only Ray Jardine had freeclimbed the last pitch (and some locals found this hard to believe) so were unsurprised to find we had to aid it. Otherwise a brilliant route, hats off to those who solo it now!
with Andy Parkin
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Voting
High 5.11d
Mid 5.11d
Low 5.11d
High 5.11c
Mid 5.11c
Low 5.11c
High 5.11b
Mid 5.11b
Low 5.11b
Votes cast 1
Votes cast 4
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Not Set