5.7 A0 or 5.10b. 1600ft.A popular route to get lost on, benighted and have a minor epic and features the tricky descent shared with Astroman. The speedy may set out to link this with Crest Jewel on North Dome.

cat22 15/Oct AltLd dnf
with Mike
Scott Quinn 09/Oct AltLd O/S

moved together no good on easy ground kept finding harder alternatives..... pretty cool route, was put off by a lot of "locals" comments but worth doing

with tunnah
ErikAndersen 01/Oct AltLd

Awesome route! Got a little off route before the slab traverse on p13 or 14, but just abbed back down to the belay we were supposed to be at. Great day out!

with Foong
littleluke 28/Sep Lead O/S
Ugly Kid Jo 16/Sep 2nd

Started 11am and planned to sleep at the top but too many midges so rapped down. Got to the bottom at 8.30pm

with Jermey Larkin
myrddinmuse 15/Sep AltLd O/S

A bit of a slog really. Played around with the idea of freeing the pendulum but those thoughts evaporated when I got there. B.L.A.N.K. Two or three great pitches, but overall, a lot of scrambling and polish involved. The 'tricky stemming corner' up to the tree was bonkers with the huge rotten tree about to fall and crush me. That thing will go one day and I'm glad I won't be there..

George Killaspy 15/Sep AltLd O/S

Bit of a meander really, maybe 3 quality pitches in 15...

with Eben
HowieB 23/Jul Lead

Lead 10b pendulum pitch

with Dan (Job)
Mike Turner 21/Jul Lead O/S

Long day in the summer heat, spent night in the jungle then abbed off the next day

with Joshua Turner
NatCheeseman 10/Jul 2nd O/S

early start, 6am, late finish (in the dark!) due to the crazy 18 pitch abseil! biggest problem was route finding, great route with a bit of everything.

with tobra
Hidden 10/Jul Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Jun Solo rpt
Hidden ?/Jun AltLd O/S
Hidden 19/Oct/16 AltLd O/S
D.Russell 19/Oct/16 AltLd O/S

Moved together for most of it. Linked it into crest jewel.

with Adam
Martin Bagshaw 13/Oct/16 2nd O/S

Simul climbed in 2 hours 23 minutes, starting at 7.52am as a way of getting to Crest Jewell. One of the shittest classic routes I have done.

with Sam Viavant
Pippa 01/Oct/16 AltLd O/S

Beautiful, had to twist partners arms/ just start the route to persuade them we had time to do it. You can literally run on some sections. Pendulum is epic

with Katinka , Jamie Thornley
Andrew Barker ?/Oct/16 AltLd O/S
with Chris M
Hidden 27/Aug/16 AltLd
GHawksworth 11/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
steve-grigg 11/Jun/16 AltLd O/S

5 hours up, two hours down. Soloed after pitch 1 till the start of 5. Did the alternative 5.7 hand crack (pitch 7 i think) which was well worth it.

DanOsb 06/Jun/16 AltLd O/S

Super fun morning, the route was so quiet! Only had to pass one party. Lots of scrambling with some nice climbing in between to keep interest high. Everyone should take the 5.8 hands variation around pitch 8. Splitter! We moved together for the most of it. Abseiled off after pitch 15. Around 4 and a half hours from car to car.

with sean
Hidden 31/May/16 -
Hidden 15/May/16 -
Hidden 13/May/16 -
joeflan 09/May/16 AltLd O/S

Grand climb did in 2 and a half hours then went and did crest Jewel, beauty

Little AndyH ?/May/16 AltLd O/S
Kemics ?/May/16 AltLd

with the harder (and insecure!) 5.8 alt start to try and pass slower party. Great fun moving together. Pitched the top harder pitches. tried to lay back 5.7 steep hand crack...was not successful. Sat on the rope to switch to hands..was fine. Took longer to get down than to climb doing endless 30 meter abseils. And then rope got stuck and had to prussik back up. Knackered!

with Corin
wilkinscl ?/May/16 AltLd
with Caleb
Hidden 22/Apr/16 AltLd
will_lake 26/Oct/15 AltLd O/S
with Andy Mitchel
Tim Bateman 25/Oct/15 AltLd

A truly grand day out.

with Thor Mountainside
colin milton 30/Sep/15 AltLd
with eric milton
Becky E 16/Sep/15 2nd O/S

Superb. Long. Didn't enjoy the pendulum. Abseils fortunately straightforward.

Graeme Hammond 16/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with Becky E
Tom Hobbs 12/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Greg M 07/Sep/15 AltLd
with K1
maybe_si ?/Sep/15 2nd O/S

Seconding due to knackered knee, 5hrs up, 1.5hrs down :)

with Jez
dprctr ?/Sep/15 2nd O/S

Simul climb in 3.5 hours. Getting down in sandals was awful.

with Greg Davis
carl_123 10/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

getting off the ground is the crux

Hidden 09/Aug/15 AltLd
Hidden 03/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
poeter210 02/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
Splitter-philiac ?/May/15 AltLd O/S
Pythonist 11/Apr/15 Lead rpt

Alternate 5.8 start. Just run up the rest - awesome route.

with Manik Surtani
chris smith ?/Apr/15 AltLd O/S

Most of the pitches are more like Mod or grade 3 scramble. Wanders a lot!

humptydumpty ??/2015 AltLd
Richard Goodey ??/2015 AltLd
timjones 11/Oct/14 AltLd
with Ryan Campagna
alooker 08/Oct/14 AltLd O/S

Full moon

with Ed
mrteale 08/Oct/14 AltLd O/S

Full moon ascent, unfortunately hampered by smoke from the recent fire.

with alook
Sarah Welsh 20/Sep/14 AltLd
timreynolds 20/Sep/14 AltLd

Thunderstorm from P13 onwards. Last 3 pitches of Ab by head torch. 13 hours car to car. Marvellous!

steveprice.exmouth 20/Sep/14 AltLd
with Pete Callaghan
petecallaghan 19/Sep/14 AltLd

First multipitch abseil!

Steve Woollard 18/Sep/14 AltLd
jon_gill1 09/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

great climbing experience but lots of scrambling non rope sections.added in some harder pitches to add interest.

with ross garfoot, chris Lyness
Hidden ?/Sep/14 -
Drew M ?/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
with Job
duncan 01/Jun/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 01/Jun/14 2nd O/S
Stickle Tarn 20/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 19/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
Ollie B 30/Sep/13 Solo O/S
with T.Ripley
markalmack 27/Sep/13 Solo O/S

Roped up for the slab pitch only. Thought Duncan (Ukc assistant editor) was going to die!

Duncan Campbell 27/Sep/13 Solo O/S

Roped up for 2 pitches only, a 5.7 crack I nearly fell off and Mark dropped me a rope, and for the slab pitch! Pendulum is awesome! Did two 5.8 variations...

with Almadad
Alasdair Fulton 26/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

Fun Easy Day.

Neil Adams 25/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

A bit rambling but very good

Simon Davis 19/Sep/13 -
with Tim P
Hidden 19/Sep/13 AltLd
Little AndyH 18/Sep/13 AltLd
Matt17 ?/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
with Ali
Ross Barnes ?/Sep/13 2nd

A nice lazy day seconding!

with Ally, Neil A
Laurence Cowton 28/Aug/13 AltLd

Quite rambling with good climbing mixed in with a lot of scrambling. Brilliant 5.7 hand crack, and the pendulum was good fun. The traverse and the last pitch is far harder than 5.4!

with Donald
Hidden 20/Oct/12 AltLd β
Noodles 07/Oct/12 AltLd O/S

Simil climbed with Toby. Good fun route but too many parties to by pass and that. Penj was fun tho. Going to link with crest jewel but couldn't find it and had an epic with the water and tobys jeans. Nice one mate. Haha decent via north dome gully so good to scout the descent.

Gazzawatson 29/Sep/12 -
mishtu 24/Jul/12 2nd
HowieB ?/Jul/12 Lead
Jon Ellis 22/May/12 2nd
tommytuffa 15/May/12 -

Simul climbed in 90 minutes and linked with North Dome South Face. Not a particularly classic climbing, rather broken up i thought, especially in comparison with S face of N Dome (quite a lot harder).

with Libby
Andy Fielding 09/May/12 AltLd

11 hours car to car. 16 pitches (17 if you count the fact that we had to reverse pitch 16 to get back to the abseil bolts. There was a bit of water after the pendulum pitch and lots of pine needles on the final slab.

with Phil Harnett
Pythonist 01/Apr/12 AltLd O/S

Started in a blizzard!!! Awesome day, with traverse through a waterfall for pitch after pendulum...

with Michael Febbo
Hidden ??/2012 -
Stefan Jacobsen 19/Oct/11 AltLd

Very pleasant climb.

with Tyler Balfour, Enmore Lin
1poundSOCKS 11/Oct/11 AltLd O/S
spidey 09/Oct/11 Solo
with katy whitticker, ryan p, pete hurley, irish si
farmus21 30/Sep/11 AltLd
with Sam Radcliffe
samrad 30/Sep/11 AltLd
with james G
elbeanio 20/Sep/11 AltLd
kitkat78 19/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

Fantastic day out, moving fast with other teams about. Eight hours car door to car door.

with SteveM
SteveM 19/Sep/11 AltLd
with Kat
Chris Sansum 17/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

Did a nice 5.9 crack variation after the traverse after the pendulum.

with Gary Lewin
Andy McCarter 13/Sep/11 Lead O/S

First big climb! Just avoided the rain storm as we left.

with K1
K1 13/Sep/11 AltLd
gcandlin ?/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

EPIC, didnt take enough water, abbed off in the dark

with Andy born
peppermill ?/Sep/11 AltLd rpt
with Simon Bennett
Hidden 12/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
DavidR 12/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

~9 hours to do the route; ~3 hours to descend. Me - pitches 1, 3, 5, 7, 9, 11, 13, 15 Hol - pitches 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14 Didn't bother with the final (16th pitch) as we would have had to reverse the pitch immediately in order to abseil from the top of pitch 15.

Hidden 02/Jul/11 Lead O/S
pete87abs 03/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
sparkass 03/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

Simul climbed for speed as we were linking with Crest Jewel on North Dome. 3h30 for The Arches.

alex_arthur 03/Jun/11 AltLd
mshorter ?/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
jimorothy 21/Sep/10 Lead

Comedy on the pendulum. Find it bizarre the abseil bolts are before the crux of the climb!!!! - talk about crux dodging. Thought this a steady severe until the crux traverse after the abseil bolts on the supposed '5.4 slabs' which most miss out. I'd grade that appallingly deceptive 5.4 final pitch VS, those slabs are as psychologically hard as the glass traverse on Snake Dike, although perhaps not technically as hard. Did the higher 5.6 traverse to get back to the abseil bolts whihc was made harder by the ballbearings! The horrendous 10 abseils made me wish I had traversed the death slabs for a third time! Defo recommend North Gully descent.

with Rachel Crolla
tuukka 18/Sep/10 AltLd
with Maija
Zoomer 12/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

Amazing climb in blazing hot weather. Did thedirect start (5.8) to avoid the crowd at the start. Brilliant pitches stacked on top of each other. The pendulem is nothing to worry about but the rap of is. Be careful to find the right bolts and avoid doing the last 3 in the dark....like we did! 12hrs for up and down.

gingergeorge 12/Sep/10 AltLd
Hidden ?/Sep/10 AltLd
clairepoppett 21/Jun/10 AltLd
with Jimmy O
Jimmy O 21/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 01/Jun/10 AltLd
colkurtz 01/Jun/10 AltLd
with Robb
dan gibson 07/May/10 AltLd rpt

linked with crest jewel in a day

with alex scola
HIGHTOWER 11/Oct/09 AltLd
with Liz
liz-264 11/Oct/09 AltLd
Hidden ?/Oct/09 AltLd
Hidden 30/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
hlegge 20/Sep/09 AltLd O/S

This time we climbed it properly and very quickly to get access to North Dome where we were climbing Crest Jewel the next day. A LOT NICER the second time with no haul bag!

Julesthe1st 20/Sep/09 AltLd O/S

Started after lunch (about 2pm). No water no food. Got to the abseil rings just as the sun was setting. Oh did I say no head lamp either. 10 abseils in the dark. Straight to the Ahwahnee hotel for a much needed beer. I was a bit young and stupid then.

with Andy Steiner
dan_o_b 15/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
hlegge 25/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

This time we used it as a practice overnight climb. Bad choice to do so, not steep which made hauling a nightmare. But spent a night on the porter ledge for the first time!

tcn_2002 25/Aug/09 AltLd
Stig 10/Jun/09 AltLd dnf

Rapped down before the pendulum due to rain. Dissapointed not to get this done in the end.

with Thanh and Mike
Hidden ?/May/09 AltLd
alasdair19 ??/2009 -
david morse ?/Oct/08 AltLd
with rampant and general
Nicos 18/Sep/08 Lead O/S
cat22 ?/Sep/08 AltLd O/S
with Mike
zchael6 ??/2008 2nd O/S
Toby Dunn ?/Oct/07 -
josephwilliams ?/Sep/07 -
chrisbevins ?/May/07 -
DavidEvans 29/Apr/07 AltLd

6 hours 1400 feet, Led 1,5,6,8,11,14,15. Moved together on 2,3,4.

with Jules Vulliamy
PenJD 29/Sep/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Sep/06 Solo O/S
Martin Bennett 01/Sep/06 -

What I came here for and didn't disappoint. Great day out.

with Dave Cundy
Hidden ?/Jun/06 2nd
Tom_Farr ??/2006 -
keith leonard ?/Oct/05 -
with steve mead
chrishedgehog 01/Jun/05 AltLd O/S

Finished about 11am which was when it was starting to get TOO hot to do anything, so very happy about that. Had to cool abseil devices in puddles on descent as they were so hot and yes, they did sizzle.

with Joe Thompson
Christian Beck ??/2005 AltLd

As a team of 3 , free and bivi at the top...awesome adventure.

Hidden ?/Oct/04 AltLd
Hidden 07/Sep/04 AltLd
mjeffery ?/Aug/04 AltLd O/S
steveP 29/Jun/04 AltLd O/S
with Chris Wynn
chris sm ??/2003 AltLd O/S
with Dom Goodridge
Hidden ?/Oct/02 AltLd
K1 ?/Sep/01 -
Richard Weller ?/May/01 Lead

Great Route. hardest part is the traverse off the finish and finding the route to walk back down to the valley

with Vandi Verma
Hidden ??/2001 -
lost.arrow 20/Sep/00 -
with Gill Heartly
Hidden ?/Sep/99 AltLd O/S
Simonfarfaraway ?/Jul/99 AltLd

Abseil descent crazy

with Steve Hastings
DafSWMC ?/May/99 2nd O/S

15-odd pitches in 3 hrs with French guide I met at Camp 4.

with Benoit
dan gibson ?/Sep/98 AltLd O/S
with helen gibson
duncan ?/Jun/98 AltLd O/S
with ??
Derek Ryden ?/Oct/97 AltLd O/S
with Val Hammel
Hidden ?/Aug/97 -
WB ?/May/97 Lead O/S
with Nicola
Hidden 04/Sep/95 Lead O/S
Scott McRae ?/Sep/95 AltLd O/S
with Darren Lambert
Jonathan Lagoe - UKC ?/Sep/95 AltLd

Simul-climbed and rapped off. Crux free is straightforward.

with Lofty
mikelaing ??/1994 AltLd O/S
with Fermor
Paula Hamilton-Gibson 15/Sep/87 Lead O/S
with Jan Gellis
neil3965 ?/May/84 Lead
Andy Nicholson ?/Sep/80 AltLd O/S

That long route in California...

with Kate
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High 5.8
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High 5.7
Mid 5.7
Low 5.7
High 5.6
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Low 5.6
Votes cast 21
Votes cast 24
Style of ascent
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