105m, 3 pitches. An excellent outing, one of the most popular climbs on the main cliff. This route takes the line up behind the huge detached pillar capped by a large bridging flake (visible from the ground) and trends leftward across the wall above. Start at the foot of the crack to the right of a small collapsed column, about 150m left of the Fang.
1) 45m (5a). Climb the crack and chimney to a ledge at 12m. Move up left to climb the crack between the main column and the wall, continue by chimneying between the column wall, passing a ledge on the right at 36m. Continue up with a slight increase in difficulty to a good ledge on the right.
2) 30m (5b). Move up and left airily to gain the top of the detached column and flake. Across the flake to the wall, then an awkward move up the wall brings jugs and a ledge on the right. Climb the short wall on the left moving in from the right (crux) continue up the thin crack to the ramp. Easier climbing leads to a large ledge. Climb a short awkward groove to exit right onto a large ramp, move back left to a good ledge.
3) 30m (5a). Climb the ramp and make an awkward move left to small ledges. Go up right to a corner crack, follow this to a belay on the ledge (possible belay). Climb the steep crack in the final wall.

C Torrans, C Sheridan 15/Jan/1976

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Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice, MIA logbook must haves!, Unusual and Interesting Routes You Must Do VS- E2, Ireland 3 Star E1-E2, UK road to wide crack mastery, E1 progression, Ireland 3 Star Multipitches

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
O Lar 14 Sep AltLd rpt Great day out. Climbing as good as I remember it. Lead the other pitches this time.
Great day out. Climbing as good as I remember it. Lead the other pitches this time.
Hidden 7 Sep Lead rpt
JonahB 24 Aug Lead O/S
with Toby
with Toby
EoghanCun 24 Aug Lead O/S
with Maddie
with Maddie
steve.aisthorpe 9 Aug AltLd
Hidden 8 Aug AltLd O/S
MichealMurphy 3 Aug AltLd Lead the middle pitch. didn't fancy a fall onto the belay ledge or a factor 2 so pulled on the ab line to step over to block.
with Dom Burnes
Lead the middle pitch. didn't fancy a fall onto the belay ledge or a factor 2 so pulled on the ab line to step over to block.
with Dom Burnes
ebutler414 3 Aug AltLd O/S P2 & 3
P2 & 3
Jamie Mullins ?Aug AltLd O/S
Keith Johns 27 Jul AltLd O/S Led p2. Incredible route. All manner of climbing styles and gear needed. True 3D climbing. Bags of exposure making the step onto the detached column.
Led p2. Incredible route. All manner of climbing styles and gear needed. True 3D climbing. Bags of exposure making the step onto the detached column.
idmadden 27 Jul AltLd O/S Epic from start to finish! A hugely atmospheric abseil, a 5a pitch that feels like 5b, a 5b pitch that feels like 5a and an exercise in rope mgmt on the last pitch. The view from the belay at the top of pitch 1 has to be as good as it gets
with Keith Johns
Epic from start to finish! A hugely atmospheric abseil, a 5a pitch that feels like 5b, a 5b pitch that feels like 5a and an exercise in rope mgmt on the last pitch. The view from the belay at the top of pitch 1 has to be as good as it gets
with Keith Johns
sas 28 Jun AltLd O/S Led P1 (up the detached column)
with AlonsoDundee, Gwyd
Led P1 (up the detached column)
with AlonsoDundee, Gwyd
bodovix 28 Jun AltLd O/S
AlonsoDundee 28 Jun Lead O/S A route that is different from everything else. Climbing up the detached pillar was scary and a struggle even on second. Pitch 1: Simon (coolest) Pitch 2: Gwyd (hardest) Pitch 3: Miguel (easiest)
with bodovix, sas
A route that is different from everything else. Climbing up the detached pillar was scary and a struggle even on second. Pitch 1: Simon (coolest) Pitch 2: Gwyd (hardest) Pitch 3: Miguel (easiest)
with bodovix, sas
DaveWhite13 27 Jun Lead rpt Lead all pitches with marius
Lead all pitches with marius
Hidden 2 Jun 2nd β
EliasKhoury 2 Jun 2nd
olddave_ 2 Jun Lead Absolutely amazing, super stoked to do it as my first multipitch - led all 3. First pitch is a massive struggle if you use the crack, just 30 odd metres of hand/fist jams with some chicken wings on the wider sections. Gear is adequate. Second pitch feels like a cake walk after the chimney, with gear everywhere and more face climbing after the initial airy mantle. Pitch 3 is a bit disjointed, ledge hopping to a 4c finish but again, gear everywhere. So so good, can't wait to come back. ***
Absolutely amazing, super stoked to do it as my first multipitch - led all 3. First pitch is a massive struggle if you use the crack, just 30 odd metres of hand/fist jams with some chicken wings on the wider sections. Gear is adequate. Second pitch feels like a cake walk after the chimney, with gear everywhere and more face climbing after the initial airy mantle. Pitch 3 is a bit disjointed, ledge hopping to a 4c finish but again, gear everywhere. So so good, can't wait to come back. ***
Hidden 2 Jun Lead rpt
Hidden 2 Jun Lead O/S
Cormac O'Brien 2 Jun 2nd Stellar
with Annie Kate Kull, Dan_Shaff
Stellar
with Annie Kate Kull, Dan_Shaff
mrteale 1 Jun AltLd O/S 2 day onsight. Abseiled down late in the afternoon and got stuck behind a very slow party of 3. After harrowing my way up P1 with not enough big gear, we were feeling less than psyched on the belay ledge waiting for the party above to continue. It was decided that we sack it off and enjoy the 25 minute walk over broken ground in climbing shoes back round and up the nearest gully to go and drink Guinness and receive death threats from a drunken old twat in the pub. We handily managed to get out ropes stuck to the abseil anchor which allowed us to return in the morning, abseil back to the ledge and then finish off the other 2 pitches. Pretty sure this is still an onsight.
with Chris M
2 day onsight. Abseiled down late in the afternoon and got stuck behind a very slow party of 3. After harrowing my way up P1 with not enough big gear, we were feeling less than psyched on the belay ledge waiting for the party above to continue. It was decided that we sack it off and enjoy the 25 minute walk over broken ground in climbing shoes back round and up the nearest gully to go and drink Guinness and receive death threats from a drunken old twat in the pub. We handily managed to get out ropes stuck to the abseil anchor which allowed us to return in the morning, abseil back to the ledge and then finish off the other 2 pitches. Pretty sure this is still an onsight.
with Chris M
Hidden 1 Jun Lead
combokate 1 Jun 2nd dog amazing route, first pitch chimney was stellar but had to jumar up the second pitch cause it was scary and hard. 3rd pitch was pleasant easy climbing. so much fun
with adoran
amazing route, first pitch chimney was stellar but had to jumar up the second pitch cause it was scary and hard. 3rd pitch was pleasant easy climbing. so much fun
with adoran
adoran 1 Jun Lead rpt
markflanagan 31 Mar AltLd rpt Bring a rigging rope for the ab. 100m isn't long enough if using it to build the anchor as well! Second time making that mistake!
Bring a rigging rope for the ab. 100m isn't long enough if using it to build the anchor as well! Second time making that mistake!
Hidden 3 Mar AltLd
Seán Fortune 3 Mar AltLd O/S
with Brian, Dan_Shaff
with Brian, Dan_Shaff
Pierre Cadman-Bosse 29 Sep, 2018 AltLd O/S Took us 2 hours to find the climb through the overgrown base, as we couldn't find the pillar, so we started climbing at 5pm. Michal did P1, super class jamming for the first 25 meters or so and then chimney up to the anchor. Felt really sustained following whilst carrying the bag. I led P2, pretty airy but really nice climbing on decent gear. By time Michal reached P2 it was 7pm and dark, windy and raining! We only had one headtorch so he took it and led the last pitch, I followed in the dark and we topped out in the wind and rain. Epic route, 3*
with Michal
Took us 2 hours to find the climb through the overgrown base, as we couldn't find the pillar, so we started climbing at 5pm. Michal did P1, super class jamming for the first 25 meters or so and then chimney up to the anchor. Felt really sustained following whilst carrying the bag. I led P2, pretty airy but really nice climbing on decent gear. By time Michal reached P2 it was 7pm and dark, windy and raining! We only had one headtorch so he took it and led the last pitch, I followed in the dark and we topped out in the wind and rain. Epic route, 3*
with Michal
Tony Walker 13 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
Stuart Walker 13 Jul, 2018 AltLd Alternate leads, dad did 1 and 3 and I took the middle crux pitch. Wicked climbing! Start was tough and long! It just keeps giving, apart from the committing, slimy and awkward short groove at the top of pitch 2 ahaha.
Alternate leads, dad did 1 and 3 and I took the middle crux pitch. Wicked climbing! Start was tough and long! It just keeps giving, apart from the committing, slimy and awkward short groove at the top of pitch 2 ahaha.
DaveWhite13 28 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S Nic P1. Me P2 and 3. Too hot to climbing anything else. Always 3* though
with Nic Marriott
Nic P1. Me P2 and 3. Too hot to climbing anything else. Always 3* though
with Nic Marriott
DavidOola 21 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S Peter did P1, I did P2, Joe did P3.
with Peter, Joe
Peter did P1, I did P2, Joe did P3.
with Peter, Joe
Hidden 21 Jun, 2018 AltLd
Paul Collins 20 Jun, 2018 Lead rpt
Hidden 18 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S
Jmpollard 18 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S P1&3. Brilliant route, quality urging up an amazing feature and then lovely laybacking on P2.
P1&3. Brilliant route, quality urging up an amazing feature and then lovely laybacking on P2.
Heather Osborne 9 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S What a climb! Fantastic end to our week in Fairhead
with Aggie
What a climb! Fantastic end to our week in Fairhead
with Aggie
Dizz 6 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S Led all except 1st 10m meters as we swapped at ledge
with leon
Led all except 1st 10m meters as we swapped at ledge
with leon
Seán McLoughlin 4 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S
Hugh Irving 4 Jun, 2018 AltLd
adoran 4 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
with Dan Shaffrey
with Dan Shaffrey
Hidden 3 Jun, 2018 -
Hidden 3 Jun, 2018 AltLd
tprebs 2 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S atmospheric day out in the mist
atmospheric day out in the mist
Paul Collins 2 Jun, 2018 AltLd rpt Met Mick at the first belay
with bren
Met Mick at the first belay
with bren
Hidden 2 Jun, 2018 2nd rpt
markflanagan 2 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S
Hidden 2 Jun, 2018 AltLd
Hidden ?Jun, 2018 AltLd
Hidden 1 Apr, 2018 AltLd O/S
chris2451 1 Apr, 2018 AltLd O/S Led p2 for first E1 lead in years/ever. Amazing route. Take big gear for p1
with DJayB
Led p2 for first E1 lead in years/ever. Amazing route. Take big gear for p1
with DJayB
Mawhinney ??, 2018 Lead
Hidden 18 Sep, 2017 AltLd
Keith O'D 18 Sep, 2017 AltLd Lead last pitch. Really fun and atmospheric! Quite strenuous chimneying up the first pitch! Climbed midweek and had the whole of Fair head to ourselves - ameezin'!
with Saoirse, Conor Murphy
Lead last pitch. Really fun and atmospheric! Quite strenuous chimneying up the first pitch! Climbed midweek and had the whole of Fair head to ourselves - ameezin'!
with Saoirse, Conor Murphy
DaveWhite13 10 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S Lead P1 and P2. Nic lead P3. Ab rope got jammed 3m from the bottom so got to ab back down and toprope the whole route
with Nic Marriott
Lead P1 and P2. Nic lead P3. Ab rope got jammed 3m from the bottom so got to ab back down and toprope the whole route
with Nic Marriott
onlyfoddington 3 Aug, 2017 2nd O/S Did not think I was going to do the first pitch, so much weird bridging and jamming and chimneying. Very good in retrospect.
with ian d f
Did not think I was going to do the first pitch, so much weird bridging and jamming and chimneying. Very good in retrospect.
with ian d f
ian d f 3 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
brian watson 13 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S P2. Very unique and brilliant
with Ed Babs
P2. Very unique and brilliant
with Ed Babs
Ed Babs 13 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S P1&3. What an adventure. Don't miss out on this.
P1&3. What an adventure. Don't miss out on this.
Lizlet13 12 Jul, 2017 2nd
with Sophie Nunn
with Sophie Nunn
Sophie Nunn 12 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S What a route!
What a route!
Hidden 8 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S
Flavio 6 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S First route at Fairhead, mad 90m abseil and a bit surreal. I don't think we got the best conditions, it started to rain heavily all the way up our sleeves and touching rock made the same noise mac & cheese makes when stirred. Desperate frictionless climbing whilst being devoured by midges, but pretty amazing thinking about it now that it's over.
First route at Fairhead, mad 90m abseil and a bit surreal. I don't think we got the best conditions, it started to rain heavily all the way up our sleeves and touching rock made the same noise mac & cheese makes when stirred. Desperate frictionless climbing whilst being devoured by midges, but pretty amazing thinking about it now that it's over.
JendeHoxar 6 Jul, 2017 AltLd
with Flavio
with Flavio
Hidden 17 Jun, 2017 2nd rpt
Hidden 17 Jun, 2017 Lead rpt
kylos8048 17 Jun, 2017 Lead Fantastic adventure on a beautiful sunny day
with vicky
Fantastic adventure on a beautiful sunny day
with vicky
Dave Almond 3 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S Amazing rock architecture. Don't push too hard
with John Seeley
Amazing rock architecture. Don't push too hard
with John Seeley
George Ponsonby 3 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S
John sealey 3 Jun, 2017 AltLd
with Dave Almond
with Dave Almond
perrys 3 Jun, 2017 AltLd I led P1 & P3
with Jo Boyd
I led P1 & P3
with Jo Boyd
Hidden 2 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S
niallsash 23 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S
s kennedy 23 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S Amazing route, varied climbing. First pitch felt around V (6). Step across onto the broken pillar and then nice climbing on edges.
with John
Amazing route, varied climbing. First pitch felt around V (6). Step across onto the broken pillar and then nice climbing on edges.
with John
davkeo 23 Jul, 2016 AltLd rpt Such a great climb. I did p2 which is a different proposition on lead. P1 is so much fun once u get past the bottom rock girrating / body squirming section. After that it's a fantastic 25ish metres of bridging, udging, jamming, palming off and various other inventfull styles of climbing. A Scottish friend likened it to a winter route & I'd agree. Ken did the last pitch in the rain & we got a right soaking. Great day all round. Ken in top form.
with kdo
Such a great climb. I did p2 which is a different proposition on lead. P1 is so much fun once u get past the bottom rock girrating / body squirming section. After that it's a fantastic 25ish metres of bridging, udging, jamming, palming off and various other inventfull styles of climbing. A Scottish friend likened it to a winter route & I'd agree. Ken did the last pitch in the rain & we got a right soaking. Great day all round. Ken in top form.
with kdo
AMY l3 17 Jul, 2016 2nd
Cillian O Corrbui 9 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S Led the last pitch, absolute classic climb! I highly recommend it
Led the last pitch, absolute classic climb! I highly recommend it
Hugh Irving 9 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S Unreal route, leads you to some really wild positions! Lead first and second pitch (top quality), Cillian lead the last pitch (his first E1).
Unreal route, leads you to some really wild positions! Lead first and second pitch (top quality), Cillian lead the last pitch (his first E1).
Pete Scott 21 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S Led P1 & 3. Vic did P2. Was great fun! The walk in along the bottom on sprained ankles was less fun (still fun though!).
Led P1 & 3. Vic did P2. Was great fun! The walk in along the bottom on sprained ankles was less fun (still fun though!).
planetmarshall 6 Jun, 2016 2nd Awesome.
with Suzana
Awesome.
with Suzana
Hidden 6 Jun, 2016 Lead O/S
Leman Lemanski 5 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S Best E1 in the country. Loved every move and pitch of this route. Classic.
Best E1 in the country. Loved every move and pitch of this route. Classic.
Mihkel 4 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S Nik P1, P3; me P2. Looking down on P1 and realising the pillar you were chimneying against is a detached totem pole of rock is a unique view. A great adventure and a fitting end to a superb few days at Fairhead.
Nik P1, P3; me P2. Looking down on P1 and realising the pillar you were chimneying against is a detached totem pole of rock is a unique view. A great adventure and a fitting end to a superb few days at Fairhead.
Hidden 4 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S
Neil McA 4 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S
with paul innes
with paul innes
masa-alpin 3 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S My first route in Fairhead and one of the best E1s I have ever climbed! Dave lead P1 and P3, I did P2. By far the hardest section for me was the first few metres of off-width in P1, which I took 20 min or something to second (A friend, Sally, described it as "mental"). The exposed opening few metres in P2 were characteristic.
with davkeo
My first route in Fairhead and one of the best E1s I have ever climbed! Dave lead P1 and P3, I did P2. By far the hardest section for me was the first few metres of off-width in P1, which I took 20 min or something to second (A friend, Sally, described it as "mental"). The exposed opening few metres in P2 were characteristic.
with davkeo
Matt77 3 Jun, 2016 Lead O/S The move onto the Totem is out there. Loved this route. Bit of everything with great belay ledges to boot.
with Shane
The move onto the Totem is out there. Loved this route. Bit of everything with great belay ledges to boot.
with Shane
islandlynx 3 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S Led p1 and 3. What an odd route. I didn't greatly enjoy the first pitch as I was expecting it to be very run out, in the end I managed to get write a few bits in. 3d climbing just isn't my thing. Climbing onto the totem pole at the start of the second pitch is cool. Topped or at 10pm for the sunset.
with Matt77
Led p1 and 3. What an odd route. I didn't greatly enjoy the first pitch as I was expecting it to be very run out, in the end I managed to get write a few bits in. 3d climbing just isn't my thing. Climbing onto the totem pole at the start of the second pitch is cool. Topped or at 10pm for the sunset.
with Matt77
davkeo 3 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S P1&3. P1 is the best and hardest with old school technique required. 3D climbing.
P1&3. P1 is the best and hardest with old school technique required. 3D climbing.
sarpedon 2 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S Led pitch 2 (5b), which has the awesome, exposed bridging at the start. Pitch 1 is an old fashion trad pitch. Pitch 3's steep finish is a wake-up call.
Led pitch 2 (5b), which has the awesome, exposed bridging at the start. Pitch 1 is an old fashion trad pitch. Pitch 3's steep finish is a wake-up call.
Naomi VR 2 Jun, 2016 AltLd
Hidden 2 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S
Kirill 2 Jun, 2016 AltLd
cem 2 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S Led p2.
Led p2.
Hidden ?Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S
Martin Bagshaw 31 May, 2016 AltLd O/S Proper adventure! Led the middle pitch. Care with route finding required at the top of p2 for those of us who prefer to climb things that aren't green and unprotectable. Somehow managed to top out at 7pm.
with Tom Hudson
Proper adventure! Led the middle pitch. Care with route finding required at the top of p2 for those of us who prefer to climb things that aren't green and unprotectable. Somehow managed to top out at 7pm.
with Tom Hudson
Hidden ??, 2016 -
zcsharp 18 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S Lead all the pitches. Completely forgot bridging existed on the first picth and found it harder than the 5b pitch, but some of the best belays i have ever had on a multipitch route.
with Andrew Woods
Lead all the pitches. Completely forgot bridging existed on the first picth and found it harder than the 5b pitch, but some of the best belays i have ever had on a multipitch route.
with Andrew Woods
5eamuz 14 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S Very enjoyable, led pitch two and John did 1 and 3.
with John Holterman
Very enjoyable, led pitch two and John did 1 and 3.
with John Holterman
Tubs 13 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S Superb. The fist pitch is the best and totally wild. Long.
with Max
Superb. The fist pitch is the best and totally wild. Long.
with Max
Hidden 11 Jun, 2015 AltLd
khalidq 9 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S I led P1, P3. Great adventure. Actually I slipped on the very initial off width bit of P1. I belay on the top pedestal just before the P2 crux.
I led P1, P3. Great adventure. Actually I slipped on the very initial off width bit of P1. I belay on the top pedestal just before the P2 crux.
Pippa 8 Jun, 2015 Lead dnf ***Backed off start, cold windy and damp, very intimidating
***Backed off start, cold windy and damp, very intimidating
Rich Cross - Alpine Guides ?May, 2015 Lead
with Hugh Reid
with Hugh Reid
Hidden 15 Sep, 2014 AltLd
Bry 15 Sep, 2014 AltLd HUNGOVER. Started late. Took a while to locate the ab (the walk-in looks an effort). Intimidated by the 90m ab and general MASSIVENESS of the crag. The initial offwidth was DESPERATE (looking at Quiddity’s photo, we might have taken the wrong line, but we followed the line on the topo in the new guide). After much whimpering, cursing and laughing (and having sworn to always wear the gear on a bandolier for any future chimney ascents), I arrived on the first platform exhausted and belayed there (pitch 1 in the new guide continues, but it looked like the ropes would drag a fair bit - unless you are meant to go up the cleft to the right of the one we did). Our second pitch (still pitch 1 in the new guide) was THE PITCH – cool bridging between the detached column and the main wall. Then 3 more pitches (2 in the new guide) - cool moves onto the top of the detached pillar, some finger locks up the wall which form the technical crux, some slabby rambling, a VERY AWKWARD step left, a nice offwidth, and a final sting-in-the-tail crack up the headwall. Topped out at dusk. MEGA.
HUNGOVER. Started late. Took a while to locate the ab (the walk-in looks an effort). Intimidated by the 90m ab and general MASSIVENESS of the crag. The initial offwidth was DESPERATE (looking at Quiddity’s photo, we might have taken the wrong line, but we followed the line on the topo in the new guide). After much whimpering, cursing and laughing (and having sworn to always wear the gear on a bandolier for any future chimney ascents), I arrived on the first platform exhausted and belayed there (pitch 1 in the new guide continues, but it looked like the ropes would drag a fair bit - unless you are meant to go up the cleft to the right of the one we did). Our second pitch (still pitch 1 in the new guide) was THE PITCH – cool bridging between the detached column and the main wall. Then 3 more pitches (2 in the new guide) - cool moves onto the top of the detached pillar, some finger locks up the wall which form the technical crux, some slabby rambling, a VERY AWKWARD step left, a nice offwidth, and a final sting-in-the-tail crack up the headwall. Topped out at dusk. MEGA.
Alex McCalman ?Jul, 2014 AltLd dnf Owen lead the pitch, which felt run out, but very enjoyable on second. I started up the second pitch, and had just done the fun (if more than a little bit terrifying) 'airy' step onto the detached pillar when it started to get dark. So began a night of abseiling in the dark, getting a rope stuck, walking out in pitch black, with one head torch between us. Eventually got back to Belfast at 2:30am.
Owen lead the pitch, which felt run out, but very enjoyable on second. I started up the second pitch, and had just done the fun (if more than a little bit terrifying) 'airy' step onto the detached pillar when it started to get dark. So began a night of abseiling in the dark, getting a rope stuck, walking out in pitch black, with one head torch between us. Eventually got back to Belfast at 2:30am.
bik 15 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S I did the first and the third pitch, Gleb the second. The crux for me was the squeeze chimney at the very bottom - awkward and hard to protect. The best pitch is the second, fun face climbing with a couple of short runouts.
with Gleb
I did the first and the third pitch, Gleb the second. The crux for me was the squeeze chimney at the very bottom - awkward and hard to protect. The best pitch is the second, fun face climbing with a couple of short runouts.
with Gleb
morganator 31 May, 2014 AltLd O/S Cool bridging
with soph
Cool bridging
with soph
soph 31 May, 2014 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23 Aug, 2013 Lead dnf
eduardo 20 Aug, 2013 AltLd dog Rested on gear before I figured out the crux on the 2nd pitch. Awesome route!
with Misha
Rested on gear before I figured out the crux on the 2nd pitch. Awesome route!
with Misha
Misha 20 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S Took ages to get to this along an indistinct path in the heather but it was well worth it. A great route with a memorable first pitch which was the most fun I've had on a route for a while! Someone referred to it in an earlier log as demented caterpillar chimneying - that's about right! Insane whole body jamming through the cleft, more like caving than climbing, eventually popping out through the top of the cleft back into daylight. Now all that remained was 25 metres of jamming, bridging, chimneying and back and footing. Really good fun, I've never done so much of that style of climbing in one go. Not sure if it's 4c as it's ungradeable really, let's just say it's traditional and J W Puttrell would have pissed up it in his tweeds while smoking a pipe. Great belay at the top of the right hand pillar, though those with a truly adventurous spirit should perhaps belay at the top of the detached pillar off the collapsed flake. How on earth is that thing managing to stay upright, considering the pillar seems to have snapped at the bottom?! Still, the thing must weight about the same as a herd of elephants, so a bit of back and footing shouldn't disturb it too much! Ed got the crux pitch, making a very passable whale impression getting onto the detached pillar and spending a while on the crux, which was steady 5b. For me the real crux was getting out of the awkward groove onto the green ramp as by then it had started to rain and the green livery was getting pretty slippery. I got the best pitch of them all, the ramp covered in green yukiness, in the rain. I haven't put so much gear into a 4a pitch for a while! Great couple of moves going up at the end of the ramp with a 60+ metre bottomless corner below you... and wet handholds. :-0 Linked in the last pitch, which was a sandbag at 4c - I thought it had a solid 5a move just above the belay ledge, but at least it was mostly dry. Phew, made it, what an adventure! Six and a half hours round trip from starting to gear up to getting back to the gearing up spot. By the way, P1 is 40-42m, not 52 as in the guide book. The others are correct at 30m for P2 and 30m again for P3&4. That'll be a hundred in total, so equivalent to about 27 gritstone routes or 1,579 boulder problems. Translation: The Secret Way
with eduardo
Took ages to get to this along an indistinct path in the heather but it was well worth it. A great route with a memorable first pitch which was the most fun I've had on a route for a while! Someone referred to it in an earlier log as demented caterpillar chimneying - that's about right! Insane whole body jamming through the cleft, more like caving than climbing, eventually popping out through the top of the cleft back into daylight. Now all that remained was 25 metres of jamming, bridging, chimneying and back and footing. Really good fun, I've never done so much of that style of climbing in one go. Not sure if it's 4c as it's ungradeable really, let's just say it's traditional and J W Puttrell would have pissed up it in his tweeds while smoking a pipe. Great belay at the top of the right hand pillar, though those with a truly adventurous spirit should perhaps belay at the top of the detached pillar off the collapsed flake. How on earth is that thing managing to stay upright, considering the pillar seems to have snapped at the bottom?! Still, the thing must weight about the same as a herd of elephants, so a bit of back and footing shouldn't disturb it too much! Ed got the crux pitch, making a very passable whale impression getting onto the detached pillar and spending a while on the crux, which was steady 5b. For me the real crux was getting out of the awkward groove onto the green ramp as by then it had started to rain and the green livery was getting pretty slippery. I got the best pitch of them all, the ramp covered in green yukiness, in the rain. I haven't put so much gear into a 4a pitch for a while! Great couple of moves going up at the end of the ramp with a 60+ metre bottomless corner below you... and wet handholds. :-0 Linked in the last pitch, which was a sandbag at 4c - I thought it had a solid 5a move just above the belay ledge, but at least it was mostly dry. Phew, made it, what an adventure! Six and a half hours round trip from starting to gear up to getting back to the gearing up spot. By the way, P1 is 40-42m, not 52 as in the guide book. The others are correct at 30m for P2 and 30m again for P3&4. That'll be a hundred in total, so equivalent to about 27 gritstone routes or 1,579 boulder problems. Translation: The Secret Way
with eduardo
Andy Moles 7 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S
with James McKenna
with James McKenna
mcgovern 10 Jul, 2013 AltLd
TommyMcG 10 Jul, 2013 AltLd
TommyMcG 10 Jun, 2013 AltLd O/S
Hidden 6 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 3 Jun, 2013 AltLd
Paul Collins 3 Jun, 2013 AltLd O/S Really really cool route, all the pitches are deadly!
Really really cool route, all the pitches are deadly!
Hidden 2 Jun, 2013 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Jun, 2013 2nd
deepdiver ??, 2013 Lead O/S First pitch 5a. Well protected in terms of off width/chimney climbing. No needs for big cams. Take few slings for chockstones instead. Must be done!!!
First pitch 5a. Well protected in terms of off width/chimney climbing. No needs for big cams. Take few slings for chockstones instead. Must be done!!!
liamo333 ??, 2013 -
Hidden ??, 2013 -
uphillnow 7 Aug, 2012 AltLd Memorable first pitch
with Dave Booth
Memorable first pitch
with Dave Booth
danoflynn 5 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S Led second pitch, face climbing crux was much more my style than the chimney below! Fantastic route!
with Tim Leach
Led second pitch, face climbing crux was much more my style than the chimney below! Fantastic route!
with Tim Leach
matthewjames 4 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S Led the 2nd route. Awesome route! Standing on a flake rested on top of a 50m pedestal is incredible!
with Boothy
Led the 2nd route. Awesome route! Standing on a flake rested on top of a 50m pedestal is incredible!
with Boothy
dan gibson 14 Jun, 2012 Lead O/S one of the best E1's anywhere
with julie carroll
one of the best E1's anywhere
with julie carroll
Hidden 14 Jun, 2012 Lead O/S
Helen Gibson 14 Jun, 2012 AltLd led 1st pitch.. amazing pitch.
with mikey P, Paul
led 1st pitch.. amazing pitch.
with mikey P, Paul
Julie Carroll 14 Jun, 2012 2nd dog
with Dan Gibson
with Dan Gibson
GarethHall 9 Jun, 2012 AltLd O/S Epic! Led 1st and last 2 pitches strung together
Epic! Led 1st and last 2 pitches strung together
paddygoodwinlondon 8 Jun, 2012 AltLd
with Gareth Hall
with Gareth Hall
Hidden 2 Jun, 2012 Lead O/S
Hidden 30 May, 2012 AltLd O/S
D.Russell 29 May, 2012 AltLd O/S
RKernan 14 Apr, 2012 AltLd O/S Led P1 and 3. Great fun, superb chimneying
with John Begley
Led P1 and 3. Great fun, superb chimneying
with John Begley
KKilroy ??, 2012 Lead
metal arms 24 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S
Hidden 16 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S
KKilroy 16 Jul, 2011 AltLd
with bugs29
with bugs29
Hidden 9 Jul, 2011 2nd
JulesV 9 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S Second mistake of the trip was deciding to keep my approach shoes on for the first pitch of this.
with SV
Second mistake of the trip was deciding to keep my approach shoes on for the first pitch of this.
with SV
Hidden 11 Jun, 2011 AltLd
gnc760 7 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S MEGA
with Rose Williams
MEGA
with Rose Williams
Rose Williams 7 Aug, 2010 2nd
with gnc760
with gnc760
jamesbrown 26 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S my first E1 at the head. a real epic adventure! first pitch is crazy! climbing not particularly hard but 50m of it! Class! crux on the second pitch is airy but holds are small and positive. even the last pitch is truly superb!!!!
with Michael murphy
my first E1 at the head. a real epic adventure! first pitch is crazy! climbing not particularly hard but 50m of it! Class! crux on the second pitch is airy but holds are small and positive. even the last pitch is truly superb!!!!
with Michael murphy
Hidden 12 Jun, 2010 AltLd
chillax ?Jun, 2010 -
Alex@home ?May, 2010 AltLd O/S fantastic. just do it. don't take any beta or preconceptions as they'll only spoil it
with The Doctor
fantastic. just do it. don't take any beta or preconceptions as they'll only spoil it
with The Doctor
Gibson27 ??, 2010 AltLd O/S
Hidden 17 Jul, 2009 AltLd
givemetea 27 Jun, 2009 AltLd RP Went off route on first pitch and backed off, led pitches 3 and 4 in one. First pitch is crazy, chimneying to the top of the broken pillar at 12 metres then moving left to the crack and corner, laybacking and back and footing up this ... and it goes on for over 40 metres!
with Nick Sexton and Keith
Went off route on first pitch and backed off, led pitches 3 and 4 in one. First pitch is crazy, chimneying to the top of the broken pillar at 12 metres then moving left to the crack and corner, laybacking and back and footing up this ... and it goes on for over 40 metres!
with Nick Sexton and Keith
Hidden 27 Jun, 2009 2nd O/S
Ri ??, 2009 Lead O/S
Ailish Ni Grianan ??, 2008 AltLd O/S Awesome climb, lots of variation
with S McGowan
Awesome climb, lots of variation
with S McGowan
bijou tram ??, 2008 AltLd
datoon 29 Apr, 2006 Lead O/S
with RT & JB
with RT & JB
Nigel Coe 25 Jun, 2005 AltLd
with Amnon
with Amnon
cornishben ?Jun, 2005 AltLd O/S
with Ian Butterworth
with Ian Butterworth
Rossco-p 7 May, 2000 AltLd Cool 1st pitch
with Mickey McCann
Cool 1st pitch
with Mickey McCann
auld al ?Apr, 1993 AltLd O/S
Ken lindsay ??, 1993 AltLd O/S
with With Alan
with With Alan
Hidden ?Jun, 1991 2nd dog
Hidden 26 Apr, 1991 AltLd O/S
rogerskews 26 May, 1990 - demented catapillar chimneying required!!
with Bryn Roberts
demented catapillar chimneying required!!
with Bryn Roberts
John HW ??, 1986 AltLd O/S
with Dave Evans
with Dave Evans
Hammy 31 Jul, 1980 -
with Rob Lawson
with Rob Lawson
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