UKC

21m. A pleasant romp, and one of the few 'delectable diffs' on the coast, though the route may have been affected by a recent rockfall. Start just left of the arch. Go directly up the slab and over the overlap to a good finishing- crack. A block at the top will accept a long sling for a belay provided you keep it low. Descend by scrambling down the back or abseiling further along grassy ridge.

Ticklists

Culm Coast Dagger Attack , Culm Along , Mid Grade Culm, Lizard and Atlantic Coast

Feedback

User Date Notes
AshCartwright 5 Aug Show βeta
βeta: Soloing not advised as the downclimb off the back is horrendously loose to reach the steep grass above the back of the cave. So we took the lesser of the bad options to carry on up the rib and climb through neck high gorse / brambles / thorns for 20m for the -3 star finish
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Soloing not advised as the downclimb off the back is horrendously loose to reach the steep grass above the back of the cave. So we took the lesser of the bad options to carry on up the rib and climb through neck high gorse / brambles / thorns for 20m for the -3 star finish
Steve Woollard 12 Jul Show βeta
βeta: Over sold, wouldn't give it a star and quite serious for VD
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Over sold, wouldn't give it a star and quite serious for VD
NeilJJ 3 Jul, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: The climbing is steady, and position exciting, but after the overlap the rock quality deteriorates. Because of this the climbing becomes fairly serious (I wouldn't want to pull a hold off which is definitely a possibility), therefore I'd also suggest it was a severe route, as it needs a steady head. I'd be more inclined to recommend Tombstone, to the VD climber, as the protection and rock are far superior.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The climbing is steady, and position exciting, but after the overlap the rock quality deteriorates. Because of this the climbing becomes fairly serious (I wouldn't want to pull a hold off which is definitely a possibility), therefore I'd also suggest it was a severe route, as it needs a steady head. I'd be more inclined to recommend Tombstone, to the VD climber, as the protection and rock are far superior.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Vicarage Cliff

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Voting
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
High VD
Mid VD
Low VD
High HD
Mid HD
Low HD
High D
Mid D
Low D
Votes cast 15
Votes cast 15
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Dowser's Route/Porthgwarra Face

Grade: VD ***
(Porthgwarra Buttress and Hella Point)

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