Rockfax Description
One of the best pitches on the Culm Coast. A hard start through the guarding overhangs contrasts with a series of thin cracks up the centre of the face above. Start just right of two left-slanting gashes in the overhangs at the base of the face. Opposite.
Climb steeply up leftwards and make a powerful move past a small square-cut notch in the lip to a rest above. Take the thin crack above to where it divides and follow the technical right-hand branch to an easing at a shallow shattered pocket. Follow the crack above to a vegetated final few metres. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Note, the start shown in Rockfax is to the right of and much harder than the original start which is described in the North Cornwall definative guide. (Picture will be posted shortly. With the original start, the grade is consistent throughout at E3 5c.

Ticklists

Best slab climbs of the UK, West Country Climbs, Culm Coast Dagger Attack, Alex's Cornwall and Devon ticklist, Ultimate E3 ticklist

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Stanners 22 Jul Lead O/S Knocking on English 6a with the rockfax described start, but quality none the less. Outstanding route.
with GT special (aka Georgia T)
Knocking on English 6a with the rockfax described start, but quality none the less. Outstanding route.
with GT special (aka Georgia T)
Hidden 14 Jul Lead O/S
tjmillen ?Jun, 2018 Lead
with Jenny
with Jenny
CmSpencer 28 May, 2018 2nd β Great lead by Derwood. Got caught out by a rapidly incoming tide and turned into something of an epic
with dbrooks
Great lead by Derwood. Got caught out by a rapidly incoming tide and turned into something of an epic
with dbrooks
dbrooks 28 May, 2018 Lead G/U did the start as per rockfax topo (thought it seemed hard for 5c?), the holds at the start were proper greasy and the sequence wasn't obvious and I fell trying to work it out.. it was fine once you know what to do and really enjoyed the rest of the route. Had a total epic getting out, misjudged the tides and left all our stuff at the bottom of matchless. Had to watch helplessly as the sea came crashing in engulfing numerous belongings and half my partners rack in the process. Salvaged what we could and then had to wade/swim out with rucksacks on. Luckily it was warm and the sea was not too rough, it could have been a lot worse. Lessons learnt.
with Chris S
did the start as per rockfax topo (thought it seemed hard for 5c?), the holds at the start were proper greasy and the sequence wasn't obvious and I fell trying to work it out.. it was fine once you know what to do and really enjoyed the rest of the route. Had a total epic getting out, misjudged the tides and left all our stuff at the bottom of matchless. Had to watch helplessly as the sea came crashing in engulfing numerous belongings and half my partners rack in the process. Salvaged what we could and then had to wade/swim out with rucksacks on. Luckily it was warm and the sea was not too rough, it could have been a lot worse. Lessons learnt.
with Chris S
kennythescot 30 May, 2017 Lead O/S
Lee_Meaden 30 May, 2017 2nd O/S Gave the route a good gardening but it could do with more....
Gave the route a good gardening but it could do with more....
whiteexplorer 17 Jul, 2015 2nd O/S
th£wrecker 17 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S did the original start but the crux is mid way. a cracking route.
did the original start but the crux is mid way. a cracking route.
Hidden 7 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S
kingholmesy ??, 2015 Lead O/S
with Colin
with Colin
tom.ben 26 Oct, 2014 2nd dnf
with petecallaghan, Scott Borden
with petecallaghan, Scott Borden
andy_pemberton 14 Apr, 2014 Lead Gardened the plants and looked at holds on the abseil from Matchless so not exactly the perfect onsight! Great route. Take LOTS of gear.
with Steve Gibson
Gardened the plants and looked at holds on the abseil from Matchless so not exactly the perfect onsight! Great route. Take LOTS of gear.
with Steve Gibson
Borden ??, 2014 Lead O/S Climbed right of original start. Good gear on steep big jugy climbing.
Climbed right of original start. Good gear on steep big jugy climbing.
burto 23 Aug, 2012 Lead O/S
with jerome
with jerome
JeromeT 23 Aug, 2012 Lead O/S
with Ian
with Ian
Hidden 6 May, 2012 2nd
Bristoldave 5 May, 2012 Lead rpt
with Cusco
with Cusco
Tom Last 31 Aug, 2011 2nd Clean. Tremendous route. Great, steady lead from Andy. Found the harder start fairly straightforward, but I was seconding! Can't quite see how someone thought the start was 6b, it was about 5a/soft 5b i thought, but burly. The 5c is higher up, but never 6a and 6b is pure fantasy. With the exception of the start, this route is a lot like Comes the Dervish, in both style and quality. Great day out with Andy as ever.
with Andy2
Clean. Tremendous route. Great, steady lead from Andy. Found the harder start fairly straightforward, but I was seconding! Can't quite see how someone thought the start was 6b, it was about 5a/soft 5b i thought, but burly. The 5c is higher up, but never 6a and 6b is pure fantasy. With the exception of the start, this route is a lot like Comes the Dervish, in both style and quality. Great day out with Andy as ever.
with Andy2
realbobsmith 22 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S
Hidden 8 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S
Legs 8 Aug, 2011 2nd O/S The alternative start is a very different style of climbing to the rest. Not 5c as all, more like 6b on very overhanging rock. The rest of the climb after 20ft is excellent. It was an ace adventure, and a superb lead from Macca. I was very happy to second. It makes me want to lead Matchless next to it, which looks excellent, if not a little green on top.
with Macca_7
The alternative start is a very different style of climbing to the rest. Not 5c as all, more like 6b on very overhanging rock. The rest of the climb after 20ft is excellent. It was an ace adventure, and a superb lead from Macca. I was very happy to second. It makes me want to lead Matchless next to it, which looks excellent, if not a little green on top.
with Macca_7
Tim M 30 Jul, 2011 Lead Pulled through a damp start only to pull a hold off while moving between the hands off rests at the bottom of the slab. In my own twisted mind, felt like I'd still done the route.
Pulled through a damp start only to pull a hold off while moving between the hands off rests at the bottom of the slab. In my own twisted mind, felt like I'd still done the route.
climbergg 30 Jul, 2011 2nd
with Tim M
with Tim M
Hidden 3 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S
nickdonohue ?Jul, 2011 Lead Great climb despite vegetation in upper half. All the necessary holds are clear!
with Andy March
Great climb despite vegetation in upper half. All the necessary holds are clear!
with Andy March
Mark Kemball 6 Mar, 2011 2nd
with Nic Dill
with Nic Dill
Tom Seccombe 30 Aug, 2010 2nd O/S fell off the first move at the start the rest of the route was ok.
with Stu Bradbury
fell off the first move at the start the rest of the route was ok.
with Stu Bradbury
Hidden 13 Aug, 2010 Lead RP
Chad123 11 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S Great route and quite tough for E3, some pretty pumpy moves through the overhang then some pretty thin slab moves to follow. Top half is easier but finding a way through the vegetation is slow going, much better rock than it looks.....worth 3 stars for sure.
with sgl
Great route and quite tough for E3, some pretty pumpy moves through the overhang then some pretty thin slab moves to follow. Top half is easier but finding a way through the vegetation is slow going, much better rock than it looks.....worth 3 stars for sure.
with sgl
Bristoldave 8 Aug, 2010 Lead dnf Tore a hold off just at the end of the overhang and fell. Tried again without resting properly cos of the tide and failed. Great moves at the start- looks like an ace route.
Tore a hold off just at the end of the overhang and fell. Tried again without resting properly cos of the tide and failed. Great moves at the start- looks like an ace route.
Marti999 8 May, 2008 2nd O/S
with Toby Keep
with Toby Keep
Hidden ??, 2005 Lead O/S
Mark Kemball ??, 1999 Lead
with Matt Vigg, Lee Bartrop
with Matt Vigg, Lee Bartrop
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High E3
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Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
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High 6a
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High 5c
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High 5b
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Votes cast 15
Votes cast 11
Style of ascent
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Followed
Alt Leads
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