550m, 18 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Arguably the Dolomites' most famous route, this outing is more accessible to most than the Hasse-Brandler. Tremendous climbing with some very memorable situations. Because of its reputation it can get very busy (particularly on the weekends) and an Alpine start is recommended.
There is a lot of fixed protection of varying quality. Take plenty of quickdraws and a small rack for the upper chimney pitches which are often wet.
Start in the centre of the black rock dominating the right-hand side of Cima Grande at a large, loose-looking ramp heading up rightwards. The upper black streaks which the route follows are a good reference point.
1) III, 80m. This pitch is often soloed but take care on the loose rock if you choose to do so. Climb the black rising ramp from left to right to reach a large ledge below a prominent crack.
2) IV, 30m. Climb the crack and go left onto a good ledge.
3) VII-, 30m. The start of the difficulties, so make sure you're warmed up. Climb the steep crack off the left-hand side of the ledge before traversing left a few metres on shallow pockets. Then climb direct at first before stepping right onto the first of several uncomfortable belays.
4) VI+, 30m. Leave the belay on the right, making a delicate traverse right for a few metres, until you reach a shallow corner-crack. Climb this to another small stance.
5) VI+, 40m. Traverse left a couple of metres before going direct towards the bottom of an overhanging corner. Climb this and exit on the right at the top.
6) VI, 30m. Climb the next steep corner above and exit right.
7) VII-, 40m. Continue up the next corner before trending right and up on a compact wall to a belay on the right.
8) VII, 40m. Climb the corner (but not to the top). After 10m or so step out right and traverse on compact rock to the base of another corner. Climb this to a belay at the top.
9) VI-, 40m. Climb up towards a small roof and pass it on the right via a small crack. Continue until you reach easy ground. The Costantini Direct Finish now continues up the chimney system above you.
10) IV+, 30m. Trend leftwards up easy ground.
11) III, 40m. More of the same continuing leftwards heading for the large open-book corner.
12) IV, 30m. Continue left then up until under a corner-crack.
13) V+, 40m. Climb the corner, move right and climb another corner (which is often wet and can feel hard for the grade). Belay at the lower of the two belays above.
14) IV+, 20m. Continue up the corner and belay at the lower of the two belays above.
15) V, 40m. Traverse left following the logical line around the corner to a stance.
16) IV-, 40m. Climb the following crack leading up a slab.
17) III+, 40m. Continue on easy but loose ground to the Ringband Terrace. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A spectacular and deservedly famous North Face climb. The first 8 pitches are gently overhanging and whilst the climbing is never desperate stamina is a must!

Comici, Dimai, Dimai 1933

Ticklists: Six classic alpine North Faces, Classic Dolomite Climbs - Kohler/Memmel, Parois-de-legende, Euro Alpine Rock, The Lifetime List.

Hidden 23/Aug/17 Lead
The Grist 23/Jul/17 AltLd O/S

Good climb. Loose in places. We did the direct finish and abseiled down an overhanging sport route (not recommended) to get off. Felt easy e2 climbing. Loads of pegs. Loads of belays.

morganator ?/Jul/17 AltLd

Good to do the classic but wished we'd done the far more logical looking Constantini direct finish. Spoilt by a pesky drone following us up the route...

davkeo 24/Jun/17 AltLd O/S

First on route at 5am. Moved together until the difficulties & 5hrs45 from there to top. Back to van at 1pm. Some really sweet climbing. 9.5hrs van to van.

Timothy Miller 24/Jun/17 AltLd O/S

Sacrificed ethics for speed, probably wasn't necessary in the end as it took us less then 6hrs bottom to top. Great exposure

tunnah 13/Sep/16 AltLd dog

Only dogged the 1st 7- pitch brilliant route need to go back an get it clean at some point P.s Chris Moore is a dick for getting it clean

CMoore 13/Sep/16 AltLd O/S

What an epic route! Absolutely amazing day. 6am start climbing. 6pm down to the car. Pitch descriptions fairly accurate but lots of the pitch lengths are way out. Only downer was Rory dogging it.

with tunnah
clams ?/Aug/16 AltLd

Led the easier pitches. Pulled on what felt like all the pegs on the harder ones. Major rockfall on P8 - luckily no-one hurt but two of three teams abbed off below us. Making good time till lost route on P13/14. We climbed a black corner (wet) then did a scary traverse (wet - left a cam) some 15m below the big roof instead of above. No mention of this key feature from Rockfax - pitch lengths wrong on crux pitch too! Finished up ISO2000 which was loose as fuck.

with Jim
Jim Tan ?/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
Charlie Low 26/Jul/16 AltLd

Such a great route! Really enjoyable climbing, plus enough pegs to be able to pull through the hard bits if needed ;) abbed off after P9 to avoid the chossy top section and the rain.

Hidden 26/Jul/16 AltLd
Dale Comley 25/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
Rachel Slater 27/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

Got up to do this painfully early, but it paid off as we were the first on the route (but only just!). I lead the even pitches, a great adventure! Also the rockfax is pretty wrong with pitch lengths (up to 20 metres out) and pitch 15 should be go above the roof BEFORE traversing left, not go left straight away.

tim newton 27/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
DigitalSteak 11/Aug/15 AltLd
Hidden 06/Aug/15 AltLd
RonnydeWeerd 29/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

Perfect conditions only the chimney was soaking wet. Up in 6.5 hours down in 1.5 hours. Clean O.S Great experience!!!

with Tom ten Voorde
Hidden ?/Jul/15 AltLd
Ellis Bird ?/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
James Oakes 17/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

First alpine route!

Fragmod 17/Aug/14 Lead
bede.west ?/Aug/14 AltLd dnf

attempted once. queues and freezing temps and tiredness

DP1977 06/Sep/13 AltLd

Awesome. 10 hours up, 2 down. Pumpy and sustained, plus an unprotected traverse and wet cracks towards the top. One fall whilst seconding low crux.

with David Potter
thrillseekerz 13/Aug/13 -
Paul ablitt 12/Aug/13 Lead

3 points aid- plus 2 hrs over guide book time - led all pitches.

with Sarah
Johnny Baker 11/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Great climbing led in blocks with Matt on the sharp end for the hard pitches- top traverse was a bit exposed but with big holds. traverse off right wasnt as bad as lead to believe. Car park to car park in 10.5 hours

with Matt Helliker
tebs 11/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Well worth the hype. Brilliant climbing on the hard pitches, every single one a 3 star classic pretty much. Very pleased to climb free. Hardest pitches about E2 or steady E3. 3rd pitch felt like the crux with cold fingers early in the morning. Great traverse pitch higher up. Team descent with James and Aidan. Good fun on the route, summit and descent with lots of cheesy high fives and Ron quotes. A long term goal in the bag. Brilliant.

with Rich
Hidden 06/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
thebigeasy ?/Aug/13 AltLd

First route of the trip. Good banter!!

Luis SD 24/Jul/13 AltLd β
Neil McA 20/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

The route was wet. Advantage there was no-one else on it, disadvantage was we had to use some aid

with Greg Cunningham
Hidden 25/Aug/12 AltLd
williamsd79 10/Aug/12 AltLd

Led the first 2 pitches (ramp and easy crack) up to the crux then handed over to Andy for the hard stuff. Andy led the 3rd and 4th pitches together which makes for the best long pitch I have ever climbed. Fine climbing continued up till the WET 15th pitch adding a great element of adventurous climbing in an amazing position. 12 hours from leaving the carpark to returning to the van. A great day!

centurion05 ?/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Happy to onsight this after bailing from it 2 days previous due to very slow party ahead. 12 hrs car to car, 6b+ overall. Loads of pegs but really good fun.

with dyl
Oliver Sherman 17/Jul/12 AltLd dog

Sadly ended up aiding past the cruxes, although Hugh managed to lead the higher ones cleanly. Super-amazing wall and totally brilliant situation. Did with a northerly wind, which was bitter and not recommended. Warmup on Yellow Edge was useful.

with Hugh Thomas
robpartridge 08/Jul/12 AltLd

Epic route!

with Marcel Broenner
hlegge ?/Jul/12 AltLd

A 17 pitch epic!!!! 2am start from car park, got to start of route at 3.30. Lead the first 100 or so meters of easy grade climbing in dark until hit big ledge at start of difficulties. We sat and had breakfast there waiting for it to get light enough to make a start on the main difficulties. Jack lead the first difficult pitch and then we swung leads from then on. There are about 6-7 sustained hard pitches of alpine grade VI or VII. Very well protected but strenuous climbing. Then the angle eases and there are a few easier pitches before becoming slightly harder again towards the top. We topped out at about 3pm and then traversed round the shelf (which was terrifying) to descend via the south face. Got back to the car park at approx 6pm in time for a beer before heading back to Corvara. Awesome day, awesome route very memorable. Only downpoint is due to its very well deserved reputation and fame it was crowded which took away from the adventure (over 10 teams on the face below us)

with Jack Hodgson
rlade ?/Jul/12 -
with Rob McGregor
tonanf ??/2012 -
with jo. H
Hidden ??/2012 -
matt perks ??/2012 -
astrange 03/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

Super route. We where up in 9 hrs. It had rained the day before so some of the upper chimneys where wet and took time. Semi-epic descent in the dark.

with Paolo Zanoli
haydng 26/Aug/11 AltLd dog

Dave took a wipper on second VII pitch and I rested on a pro at the end of the final VII. Route is pretty obvious with several E1 pitches and probably one E2 5c pitch for the last VII on pumpy bridging. Great route although even after tonnes of sunshine chimney before traverse at the top still wet.

with Dave
Peter Holder 19/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
with Josh Legg
duncan 13/Jul/11 AltLd

6.30am - 5pm: 10.5 hours to the ring-band. E3ish.

josh william legg ??/2011 Lead
Hidden ??/2011 AltLd
nathanlee 04/Sep/10 2nd

The route of the Dolomites. Pulled on everything.

with Dom Lee
dominic lee 04/Sep/10 Lead rpt

Had the face to ourselves. Wet and icy and spooky in upper chimneys.Free this time,pulled on everything back in 78. A great day out.

simon kimber 24/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
with Rob Sandercock
Hidden 23/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
david morse 17/Aug/10 AltLd

most pitches wet, very cold, no one else on the face...not in condition! pulled through cruxes and swam up the final water running pitches, an excellent adventure. 11 hours on the route, 2 down. classic

with chris todd
Hidden 17/Aug/10 AltLd
Hidden 04/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
Mattyk 04/Aug/10 AltLd

Pulled on a couple of pieces on 2nd and third crux pitches. Steep ground - pretty pumpy for me as straight off plane really without climbing for a month prior. Nice to get up it but top half a bit crappy and descent unpleasant.

with Ali K
rob.s22 ?/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Big storm came, top pitches in hail, scary decent. First alpine tick.

with S,K
Chad123 15/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

Simply awesome route, very sustained in bottom half and even the top wet chimneys were hard. A rock to the cheek didn't detract from the experience. Crux second pitch is a tough warm up but very pleased to on-sight everything.... E36aish and very sustained, but pegs make it feel a bit sporty! Take some wires and cams too though...

with Emily
Andrew Nelson ??/2010 -
with paul Chiddle
Hidden ?/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
richjm ?/Sep/09 AltLd O/S

first group on the route. route finding easier than expected due to extensive pegging. 9hrs for ascent.

with Ryan Clarke
Hidden 19/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
Dunx 19/Aug/09 AltLd
with Rushy
Graham Atkins 15/Aug/09 AltLd
Hidden 07/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
billb ?/Aug/09 AltLd

Very Enjoyable especially last few crux pitches. One of my best days climbing!

mirise 20/Jun/09 2nd O/S
with Katerina Matyushevskaja
irish paul ?/Aug/08 AltLd

Good route, easy access. Quite cold conditions so pulled on gear where needed. Some very good pitches, Marks reassuring wink needs some work...

with Mark
Mark Walter ?/Aug/08 AltLd

pulled on everything i could find

Hidden 12/Aug/07 AltLd
ukb & bmc shark 06/Aug/07 AltLd O/S

Great day out. Some tricky moves.

with Dave Marsh
dan gibson 25/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with martina
alpinist63 19/Jul/07 -
Neil Adams 18/Jul/07 AltLd O/S

Lovely route. Pulled on a fair bit of gear but was happy with that ethic to make sure we got up it quickly.

andyinglis 18/Jul/07 AltLd O/S

French free in places!

with neil adams
Hidden 19/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
Jim Walton ??/2006 AltLd O/S
with Neil Mathews
Pete Graham ??/2006 AltLd
ian bryant 29/Aug/05 AltLd O/S
with dom
mattnuttall ?/Aug/04 AltLd O/S

Wow... some return to climbing after 8 years off. second route after a long rest... hard.

with Jerome
Hidden ?/Jul/04 -
akhughes ?/Jun/04 AltLd O/S
with Steptoe
BenTiffin ?/Aug/03 AltLd dog

Awesome route - E3 overall. Dan led the harder moves clean onsight, I seconded pulling on gear due to carrying the sac.

with Dan Robinson
Justin Tracey ?/Aug/03 -

Did this and then went and did the Cassin on the Badile 4 days later. Great trip

with Dan Hinton
sadams 18/Jul/01 AltLd
with Eric Hildrew
Hidden 27/Jul/99 Lead O/S
gergosantha ?/Jul/94 -
IanD353 ?/Jul/89 AltLd
mark-abz ?/Aug/87 AltLd
with Andy W
Hidden ?/Aug/80 -
Rick Graham ??/1977 AltLd
with Andy Hyslop
jcw ??/1975 -
Martin Bennett 01/Aug/74 -

A huge step up for us. Using liberal aid as was the norm, the first (hard) half went well. Just us and a guide/client team on the face. Shortly after starting up the exit cracks our by now usual storm hit and several hours were spent in full waterproofs with waterfalls spilling in at our wrists and out at our ankles! Top with an hour of daylight left. Managed a couple of abs and a bit of scrambling then lost. Bivi with no gear, wet through. Shivered until clouds rolled away, moon came up and a path was picked slowly across the S face to finally kick down snowslope in the opposite gully in EBs. Brew and bed around 3 am, very relieved. Still no idea where the descent should have gone.

with RA
jcw 22/Aug/67 -

An exciting ascent and my last climb in the Dolomitess for many years

with Ron James
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High VIII-
High VII+
Mid VII+
Low VII+
High VII
Votes cast 14
Votes cast 22
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set