550m, 18 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Arguably the Dolomites' most famous route, this outing is more accessible to most than the Hasse-Brandler. Tremendous climbing with some very memorable situations. Because of its reputation it can get very busy (particularly on the weekends) and an Alpine start is recommended.
There is a lot of fixed protection of varying quality. Take plenty of quickdraws and a small rack for the upper chimney pitches which are often wet.
Start in the centre of the black rock dominating the right-hand side of Cima Grande at a large, loose-looking ramp heading up rightwards. The upper black streaks which the route follows are a good reference point.
1) III, 80m. This pitch is often soloed but take care on the loose rock if you choose to do so. Climb the black rising ramp from left to right to reach a large ledge below a prominent crack.
2) IV, 30m. Climb the crack and go left onto a good ledge.
3) VII-, 30m. The start of the difficulties, so make sure you're warmed up. Climb the steep crack off the left-hand side of the ledge before traversing left a few metres on shallow pockets. Then climb direct at first before stepping right onto the first of several uncomfortable belays.
4) VI+, 30m. Leave the belay on the right, making a delicate traverse right for a few metres, until you reach a shallow corner-crack. Climb this to another small stance.
5) VI+, 40m. Traverse left a couple of metres before going direct towards the bottom of an overhanging corner. Climb this and exit on the right at the top.
6) VI, 30m. Climb the next steep corner above and exit right.
7) VII-, 40m. Continue up the next corner before trending right and up on a compact wall to a belay on the right.
8) VII, 40m. Climb the corner (but not to the top). After 10m or so step out right and traverse on compact rock to the base of another corner. Climb this to a belay at the top.
9) VI-, 40m. Climb up towards a small roof and pass it on the right via a small crack. Continue until you reach easy ground. The Costantini Direct Finish now continues up the chimney system above you.
10) IV+, 30m. Trend leftwards up easy ground.
11) III, 40m. More of the same continuing leftwards heading for the large open-book corner.
12) IV, 30m. Continue left then up until under a corner-crack.
13) V+, 40m. Climb the corner, move right and climb another corner (which is often wet and can feel hard for the grade). Belay at the lower of the two belays above.
14) IV+, 20m. Continue up the corner and belay at the lower of the two belays above.
15) V, 40m. Traverse left following the logical line around the corner to a stance.
16) IV-, 40m. Climb the following crack leading up a slab.
17) III+, 40m. Continue on easy but loose ground to the Ringband Terrace. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A spectacular and deservedly famous North Face climb. The first 8 pitches are gently overhanging and whilst the climbing is never desperate stamina is a must!

Comici, Dimai, Dimai 1933

Ticklists

Six classic alpine North Faces, Classic Dolomite Climbs - Kohler/Memmel, Parois-de-legende, Big Routes, Euro Alpine Rock, The Lifetime List, European Multipitches!

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Simon Allcock 1 Aug 2nd extraordinary line and position. almost all wet, so pulled/rested on gear on hard pitches.
with Carlo
extraordinary line and position. almost all wet, so pulled/rested on gear on hard pitches.
with Carlo
Hidden 24 Jul AltLd dnf
Tom Seccombe 24 Sep, 2018 AltLd A long way below freezing. Still can't feel my toes 3 days later. Great climb. :)
with Diego Señoret
A long way below freezing. Still can't feel my toes 3 days later. Great climb. :)
with Diego Señoret
DanielGyi 16 Aug, 2018 AltLd
Hidden 16 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
arose 8 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S 7.5hrs. Started at 4.45 and waited for a few minutes for the light at the base of the first VII. Great climbing throughout. The pitch lengths from rockfax are way off though the belays are obvious.
7.5hrs. Started at 4.45 and waited for a few minutes for the light at the base of the first VII. Great climbing throughout. The pitch lengths from rockfax are way off though the belays are obvious.
Mackinclimb 8 Aug, 2018 Lead
Hidden 24 Jul, 2018 AltLd
Granitemuncher 15 Jul, 2018 AltLd A great day out, the top chimney pitches were running with water and slippery so -1 point for that. it took a bit of searching to find the first Ab point at the summit.
A great day out, the top chimney pitches were running with water and slippery so -1 point for that. it took a bit of searching to find the first Ab point at the summit.
Hidden 23 Aug, 2017 Lead
jasewilson ?Aug, 2017 -
The Grist 23 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S Good climb. Loose in places. We did the direct finish and abseiled down an overhanging sport route (not recommended) to get off. Felt easy e2 climbing. Loads of pegs. Loads of belays.
Good climb. Loose in places. We did the direct finish and abseiled down an overhanging sport route (not recommended) to get off. Felt easy e2 climbing. Loads of pegs. Loads of belays.
morganator ?Jul, 2017 AltLd Good to do the classic but wished we'd done the far more logical looking Constantini direct finish. Spoilt by a pesky drone following us up the route...
Good to do the classic but wished we'd done the far more logical looking Constantini direct finish. Spoilt by a pesky drone following us up the route...
davkeo 24 Jun, 2017 AltLd First on route at 5am. Moved together until the difficulties & 5hrs45 from there to top. Back to van at 1pm. Some really sweet climbing. 9.5hrs van to van.
First on route at 5am. Moved together until the difficulties & 5hrs45 from there to top. Back to van at 1pm. Some really sweet climbing. 9.5hrs van to van.
mim tiller 24 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S Sacrificed ethics for speed, probably wasn't necessary in the end as it took us less then 6hrs bottom to top. Great exposure
with davkeo
Sacrificed ethics for speed, probably wasn't necessary in the end as it took us less then 6hrs bottom to top. Great exposure
with davkeo
tunnah 13 Sep, 2016 AltLd dog Only dogged the 1st 7- pitch brilliant route need to go back an get it clean at some point P.s Chris Moore is a dick for getting it clean
with CMoore
Only dogged the 1st 7- pitch brilliant route need to go back an get it clean at some point P.s Chris Moore is a dick for getting it clean
with CMoore
CMoore 13 Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S What an epic route! Absolutely amazing day. 6am start climbing. 6pm down to the car. Pitch descriptions fairly accurate but lots of the pitch lengths are way out. Only downer was Rory dogging it.
with tunnah
What an epic route! Absolutely amazing day. 6am start climbing. 6pm down to the car. Pitch descriptions fairly accurate but lots of the pitch lengths are way out. Only downer was Rory dogging it.
with tunnah
clams ?Aug, 2016 AltLd Led the easier pitches. Pulled on what felt like all the pegs on the harder ones. Major rockfall on P8 - luckily no-one hurt but two of three teams abbed off below us. Making good time till lost route on P13/14. We climbed a black corner (wet) then did a scary traverse (wet - left a cam) some 15m below the big roof instead of above. No mention of this key feature from Rockfax - pitch lengths wrong on crux pitch too! Finished up ISO2000 which was loose as fuck.
with Jim
Led the easier pitches. Pulled on what felt like all the pegs on the harder ones. Major rockfall on P8 - luckily no-one hurt but two of three teams abbed off below us. Making good time till lost route on P13/14. We climbed a black corner (wet) then did a scary traverse (wet - left a cam) some 15m below the big roof instead of above. No mention of this key feature from Rockfax - pitch lengths wrong on crux pitch too! Finished up ISO2000 which was loose as fuck.
with Jim
Jim Tan ?Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
Charlie Low 26 Jul, 2016 AltLd Such a great route! Really enjoyable climbing, plus enough pegs to be able to pull through the hard bits if needed ;) abbed off after P9 to avoid the chossy top section and the rain.
Such a great route! Really enjoyable climbing, plus enough pegs to be able to pull through the hard bits if needed ;) abbed off after P9 to avoid the chossy top section and the rain.
Hidden 26 Jul, 2016 AltLd
Dale Comley 25 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S
cissacarvalho 10 Jun, 2016 AltLd 10 hours.
10 hours.
Rachel Slater 27 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S Got up to do this painfully early, but it paid off as we were the first on the route (but only just!). I lead the even pitches, a great adventure! Also the rockfax is pretty wrong with pitch lengths (up to 20 metres out) and pitch 15 should be go above the roof BEFORE traversing left, not go left straight away.
Got up to do this painfully early, but it paid off as we were the first on the route (but only just!). I lead the even pitches, a great adventure! Also the rockfax is pretty wrong with pitch lengths (up to 20 metres out) and pitch 15 should be go above the roof BEFORE traversing left, not go left straight away.
tim newton 27 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S
DigitalSteak 11 Aug, 2015 AltLd
Hidden 6 Aug, 2015 AltLd
RonnydeWeerd 29 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S Perfect conditions only the chimney was soaking wet. Up in 6.5 hours down in 1.5 hours. Clean O.S Great experience!!!
with Tom ten Voorde
Perfect conditions only the chimney was soaking wet. Up in 6.5 hours down in 1.5 hours. Clean O.S Great experience!!!
with Tom ten Voorde
Hidden ?Jul, 2015 AltLd
Ellis Bird ?Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S
rockaddiction ?Apr, 2015 AltLd
James Oakes 17 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S First alpine route!
with Fragmod
First alpine route!
with Fragmod
Fragmod 17 Aug, 2014 Lead
treesrockice ?Aug, 2014 AltLd dnf attempted once. queues and freezing temps and tiredness
attempted once. queues and freezing temps and tiredness
Hidden 6 Sep, 2013 AltLd
thrillseekerz 13 Aug, 2013 -
Paul ablitt 12 Aug, 2013 Lead 3 points aid- plus 2 hrs over guide book time - led all pitches.
with Rushy
3 points aid- plus 2 hrs over guide book time - led all pitches.
with Rushy
Johnny Baker 11 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S Great climbing led in blocks with Matt on the sharp end for the hard pitches- top traverse was a bit exposed but with big holds. traverse off right wasnt as bad as lead to believe. Car park to car park in 10.5 hours
with Matt Helliker
Great climbing led in blocks with Matt on the sharp end for the hard pitches- top traverse was a bit exposed but with big holds. traverse off right wasnt as bad as lead to believe. Car park to car park in 10.5 hours
with Matt Helliker
Hidden 11 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S
Hidden 6 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S
thebigeasy ?Aug, 2013 AltLd First route of the trip. Good banter!!
First route of the trip. Good banter!!
Luis SD 24 Jul, 2013 AltLd β
Neil McA 20 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S The route was wet. Advantage there was no-one else on it, disadvantage was we had to use some aid
The route was wet. Advantage there was no-one else on it, disadvantage was we had to use some aid
Greg Cunningham 20 Jul, 2013 AltLd
Hidden 25 Aug, 2012 AltLd
williamsd79 10 Aug, 2012 AltLd Led the first 2 pitches (ramp and easy crack) up to the crux then handed over to Andy for the hard stuff. Andy led the 3rd and 4th pitches together which makes for the best long pitch I have ever climbed. Fine climbing continued up till the WET 15th pitch adding a great element of adventurous climbing in an amazing position. 12 hours from leaving the carpark to returning to the van. A great day!
Led the first 2 pitches (ramp and easy crack) up to the crux then handed over to Andy for the hard stuff. Andy led the 3rd and 4th pitches together which makes for the best long pitch I have ever climbed. Fine climbing continued up till the WET 15th pitch adding a great element of adventurous climbing in an amazing position. 12 hours from leaving the carpark to returning to the van. A great day!
centurion05 ?Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S Happy to onsight this after bailing from it 2 days previous due to very slow party ahead. 12 hrs car to car, 6b+ overall. Loads of pegs but really good fun.
Happy to onsight this after bailing from it 2 days previous due to very slow party ahead. 12 hrs car to car, 6b+ overall. Loads of pegs but really good fun.
Oliver Sherman 17 Jul, 2012 AltLd dog Sadly ended up aiding past the cruxes, although Hugh managed to lead the higher ones cleanly. Super-amazing wall and totally brilliant situation. Did with a northerly wind, which was bitter and not recommended. Warmup on Yellow Edge was useful.
with Hugh Thomas
Sadly ended up aiding past the cruxes, although Hugh managed to lead the higher ones cleanly. Super-amazing wall and totally brilliant situation. Did with a northerly wind, which was bitter and not recommended. Warmup on Yellow Edge was useful.
with Hugh Thomas
robpartridge 8 Jul, 2012 AltLd Epic route!
with Marcel Broenner
Epic route!
with Marcel Broenner
hlegge ?Jul, 2012 AltLd A 17 pitch epic!!!! 2am start from car park, got to start of route at 3.30. Lead the first 100 or so meters of easy grade climbing in dark until hit big ledge at start of difficulties. We sat and had breakfast there waiting for it to get light enough to make a start on the main difficulties. Jack lead the first difficult pitch and then we swung leads from then on. There are about 6-7 sustained hard pitches of alpine grade VI or VII. Very well protected but strenuous climbing. Then the angle eases and there are a few easier pitches before becoming slightly harder again towards the top. We topped out at about 3pm and then traversed round the shelf (which was terrifying) to descend via the south face. Got back to the car park at approx 6pm in time for a beer before heading back to Corvara. Awesome day, awesome route very memorable. Only downpoint is due to its very well deserved reputation and fame it was crowded which took away from the adventure (over 10 teams on the face below us)
with Jack Hodgson
A 17 pitch epic!!!! 2am start from car park, got to start of route at 3.30. Lead the first 100 or so meters of easy grade climbing in dark until hit big ledge at start of difficulties. We sat and had breakfast there waiting for it to get light enough to make a start on the main difficulties. Jack lead the first difficult pitch and then we swung leads from then on. There are about 6-7 sustained hard pitches of alpine grade VI or VII. Very well protected but strenuous climbing. Then the angle eases and there are a few easier pitches before becoming slightly harder again towards the top. We topped out at about 3pm and then traversed round the shelf (which was terrifying) to descend via the south face. Got back to the car park at approx 6pm in time for a beer before heading back to Corvara. Awesome day, awesome route very memorable. Only downpoint is due to its very well deserved reputation and fame it was crowded which took away from the adventure (over 10 teams on the face below us)
with Jack Hodgson
rlade ?Jul, 2012 -
with Rob McGregor
with Rob McGregor
tonanf ??, 2012 -
with jo. H
with jo. H
Hidden ??, 2012 -
matt perks ??, 2012 -
astrange 3 Sep, 2011 AltLd O/S Super route. We where up in 9 hrs. It had rained the day before so some of the upper chimneys where wet and took time. Semi-epic descent in the dark.
with Paolo Zanoli
Super route. We where up in 9 hrs. It had rained the day before so some of the upper chimneys where wet and took time. Semi-epic descent in the dark.
with Paolo Zanoli
haydng 26 Aug, 2011 AltLd dog Dave took a wipper on second VII pitch and I rested on a pro at the end of the final VII. Route is pretty obvious with several E1 pitches and probably one E2 5c pitch for the last VII on pumpy bridging. Great route although even after tonnes of sunshine chimney before traverse at the top still wet.
with Dave
Dave took a wipper on second VII pitch and I rested on a pro at the end of the final VII. Route is pretty obvious with several E1 pitches and probably one E2 5c pitch for the last VII on pumpy bridging. Great route although even after tonnes of sunshine chimney before traverse at the top still wet.
with Dave
Peter Holder 19 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S
with Josh Legg
with Josh Legg
duncan 13 Jul, 2011 AltLd 6.30am - 5pm: 10.5 hours to the ring-band. E3ish.
6.30am - 5pm: 10.5 hours to the ring-band. E3ish.
josh william legg ??, 2011 Lead
Hidden ??, 2011 AltLd
nathanlee 4 Sep, 2010 2nd The route of the Dolomites. Pulled on everything.
The route of the Dolomites. Pulled on everything.
dominic lee 4 Sep, 2010 Lead rpt Had the face to ourselves. Wet and icy and spooky in upper chimneys.Free this time,pulled on everything back in 78. A great day out.
Had the face to ourselves. Wet and icy and spooky in upper chimneys.Free this time,pulled on everything back in 78. A great day out.
simon kimber 24 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Rob Sandercock
with Rob Sandercock
Hidden 23 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S
david morse 17 Aug, 2010 AltLd most pitches wet, very cold, no one else on the face...not in condition! pulled through cruxes and swam up the final water running pitches, an excellent adventure. 11 hours on the route, 2 down. classic
with chris todd
most pitches wet, very cold, no one else on the face...not in condition! pulled through cruxes and swam up the final water running pitches, an excellent adventure. 11 hours on the route, 2 down. classic
with chris todd
Hidden 17 Aug, 2010 AltLd
Hidden 4 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S
Mattyk 4 Aug, 2010 AltLd Pulled on a couple of pieces on 2nd and third crux pitches. Steep ground - pretty pumpy for me as straight off plane really without climbing for a month prior. Nice to get up it but top half a bit crappy and descent unpleasant.
with ali k
Pulled on a couple of pieces on 2nd and third crux pitches. Steep ground - pretty pumpy for me as straight off plane really without climbing for a month prior. Nice to get up it but top half a bit crappy and descent unpleasant.
with ali k
rob.s22 ?Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S Big storm came, top pitches in hail, scary decent. First alpine tick.
with S,K
Big storm came, top pitches in hail, scary decent. First alpine tick.
with S,K
Chad123 15 Jul, 2010 AltLd O/S Simply awesome route, very sustained in bottom half and even the top wet chimneys were hard. A rock to the cheek didn't detract from the experience. Crux second pitch is a tough warm up but very pleased to on-sight everything.... E36aish and very sustained, but pegs make it feel a bit sporty! Take some wires and cams too though...
with Emily
Simply awesome route, very sustained in bottom half and even the top wet chimneys were hard. A rock to the cheek didn't detract from the experience. Crux second pitch is a tough warm up but very pleased to on-sight everything.... E36aish and very sustained, but pegs make it feel a bit sporty! Take some wires and cams too though...
with Emily
Andrew Nelson ??, 2010 -
with paul Chiddle
with paul Chiddle
Hidden ?Sep, 2009 AltLd O/S
richjm ?Sep, 2009 AltLd O/S first group on the route. route finding easier than expected due to extensive pegging. 9hrs for ascent.
with Ryan Clarke
first group on the route. route finding easier than expected due to extensive pegging. 9hrs for ascent.
with Ryan Clarke
Dunx 19 Aug, 2009 AltLd
with Rushy
with Rushy
Graham Atkins 15 Aug, 2009 AltLd
Hidden 7 Aug, 2009 AltLd O/S
billb ?Aug, 2009 AltLd Very Enjoyable especially last few crux pitches. One of my best days climbing!
with JulesV
Very Enjoyable especially last few crux pitches. One of my best days climbing!
with JulesV
mirise 20 Jun, 2009 2nd O/S
with Katerina Matyushevskaja
with Katerina Matyushevskaja
irish paul ?Aug, 2008 AltLd Good route, easy access. Quite cold conditions so pulled on gear where needed. Some very good pitches, Marks reassuring wink needs some work...
with Mark
Good route, easy access. Quite cold conditions so pulled on gear where needed. Some very good pitches, Marks reassuring wink needs some work...
with Mark
Mark Walter ?Aug, 2008 AltLd pulled on everything i could find
pulled on everything i could find
Hidden 12 Aug, 2007 AltLd
UKB Shark 6 Aug, 2007 AltLd O/S Great day out. Some tricky moves.
with Dave Marsh
Great day out. Some tricky moves.
with Dave Marsh
dan gibson 25 Jul, 2007 Lead O/S
with martina
with martina
alpinist63 19 Jul, 2007 -
Neil Adams 18 Jul, 2007 AltLd O/S Lovely route. Pulled on a fair bit of gear but was happy with that ethic to make sure we got up it quickly.
Lovely route. Pulled on a fair bit of gear but was happy with that ethic to make sure we got up it quickly.
andyinglis 18 Jul, 2007 AltLd O/S French free in places!
with neil adams
French free in places!
with neil adams
Hidden 19 Jul, 2006 AltLd O/S
Jim Walton ??, 2006 AltLd O/S
with Neil Mathews
with Neil Mathews
Pete Graham ??, 2006 AltLd
with malx
with malx
ian bryant 29 Aug, 2005 AltLd O/S
with dom
with dom
mattnuttall ?Aug, 2004 AltLd O/S Wow... some return to climbing after 8 years off. second route after a long rest... hard.
with Jerome
Wow... some return to climbing after 8 years off. second route after a long rest... hard.
with Jerome
Hidden ?Jul, 2004 -
akhughes ?Jun, 2004 AltLd O/S
with Steptoe
with Steptoe
BenTiffin ?Aug, 2003 AltLd dog Awesome route - E3 overall. Dan led the harder moves clean onsight, I seconded pulling on gear due to carrying the sac.
with Dan Robinson
Awesome route - E3 overall. Dan led the harder moves clean onsight, I seconded pulling on gear due to carrying the sac.
with Dan Robinson
Justin Tracey ?Aug, 2003 - Did this and then went and did the Cassin on the Badile 4 days later. Great trip
with Dan Hinton
Did this and then went and did the Cassin on the Badile 4 days later. Great trip
with Dan Hinton
sadams 18 Jul, 2001 AltLd
with Eric Hildrew
with Eric Hildrew
Hidden 27 Jul, 1999 Lead O/S
pauldrew ?Jul, 1995 AltLd dnf Only 2 1/2 pitches, rope chopped by falling rock from party above so had to retreat.
with Lisa Cox
Only 2 1/2 pitches, rope chopped by falling rock from party above so had to retreat.
with Lisa Cox
gergosantha ?Jul, 1994 -
IanD353 ?Jul, 1989 AltLd
mark-abz ?Aug, 1987 AltLd
with Andy W
with Andy W
Hidden ?Aug, 1980 -
Rick Graham ??, 1977 AltLd
with Andy Hyslop
with Andy Hyslop
jcw ??, 1975 -
Martin Bennett 1 Aug, 1974 - A huge step up for us. Using liberal aid as was the norm, the first (hard) half went well. Just us and a guide/client team on the face. Shortly after starting up the exit cracks our by now usual storm hit and several hours were spent in sleet and hail in full waterproofs with waterfalls spilling in at our wrists and out at our ankles, waiting for the lightening to hit us! Top with an hour of daylight left. Managed a couple of abs and a bit of scrambling then were lost in the dark. Bivi with no gear, wet through. Shivered until clouds rolled away, moon came up and a waay was scrambled painstakingly across the S face to finally kick down a snowslope in the opposite gully in EBs. Brew and bed around 3 am, very relieved. Still no idea where the descent should have gone.
with RA
A huge step up for us. Using liberal aid as was the norm, the first (hard) half went well. Just us and a guide/client team on the face. Shortly after starting up the exit cracks our by now usual storm hit and several hours were spent in sleet and hail in full waterproofs with waterfalls spilling in at our wrists and out at our ankles, waiting for the lightening to hit us! Top with an hour of daylight left. Managed a couple of abs and a bit of scrambling then were lost in the dark. Bivi with no gear, wet through. Shivered until clouds rolled away, moon came up and a waay was scrambled painstakingly across the S face to finally kick down a snowslope in the opposite gully in EBs. Brew and bed around 3 am, very relieved. Still no idea where the descent should have gone.
with RA
jcw 22 Aug, 1967 - An exciting ascent and my last climb in the Dolomitess for many years
with Ron James
An exciting ascent and my last climb in the Dolomitess for many years
with Ron James
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Voting
High VIII-
Mid VIII-
Low VIII-
High VII+
Mid VII+
Low VII+
High VII
Mid VII
Low VII
Votes cast 16
Votes cast 24
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Not Set