The shallow groove 20ft left of Cadillac leads easily to a small alcove beneath the flake. Layback to glory and an easier finish.

F Cannings, P Littlejohn 28/Feb/1970

Ticklists: Orange Spot Lower Wye.

Droyd 19/Nov/17 Lead β

Belayed Rory on it first, but led on my own gear (apart from the stuck nut at the bottom, which Rory left a draw on)

with Rory Smith
riff156 22/Oct/17 Lead O/S
with Jo Smith
springfall2008 26/Sep/17 2nd

Certainly the hardest HVS we have climbed so far, difficult moves onto the flake make it easy to pump out. The top section isn't _that_ easy either. Actually dogged this route, but mainly due to spending ages trying to remove a stuck nut. Also messed up the sequence onto the flake the first time, there's a small foot hold almost directly below the crack you need to put your right foot up onto.

minty1984 17/Sep/17 Lead O/S

Had some commitment issues on this route! Took me around 30 mins to "launch" up the flake! Good gear all the way but i found the flake strenuous! Awesome route

wurzelinzummerset 17/Sep/17 2nd
with Martin
Vinnyb 27/Aug/17 2nd O/S
Sam Buckee 27/Aug/17 2nd O/S
J.A.Thomson 27/Aug/17 Lead O/S
with vince
danbirkby 24/Aug/17 Lead O/S
with Gordon
Dino Dave 09/Jul/17 Lead O/S
with catty_9, Jonny
catty_9 09/Jul/17 2nd O/S

Not as bad as it looks from the ground. The layback bit is very short and can be jammed

Ian Stirrups 04/Jul/17 Lead rpt
with Sue
Hidden 18/Jun/17 Lead O/S
badgerjockey 04/Jun/17 2nd O/S

Tough and exposed and the tricky start takes you by surprise but good gear and exhilarating.

Stuart William 04/Jun/17 Lead O/S

Crux wasn't where I expected it to be. Cool climbing all the way. Really enjoyed this.

with Harry
ChristyCole 02/Jun/17 Lead O/S
dkilner 02/Jun/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Jun/17 Lead O/S
Slarti B 22/Apr/17 2nd

Layback crux not as hard as it looked. Nice positive holds on flake edge and then good footholds once I got over edge.

with Chris Bull, Eric
Longsufferingropeholder 07/Apr/17 Lead O/S

The guidebook made a big fuss about the layback bit so I stopped for a bit more gear faff after leaving the niche, unknowingly hanging around mid-crux.

with Brian M
bpmclimb 07/Apr/17 2nd rpt
meinecke 02/Apr/17 2nd
Ids1165 ??/2017 Lead
myrddinmuse 04/Dec/16 2nd O/S

Really cool route. You can absolutely sow up before the layback flake! Engaging all the way to the end!

Hidden 13/Nov/16 Lead O/S
julesmckim 17/Oct/16 Lead

Found the crux low down. Layback flake steep but straightforward. Interest maintained til the top. Great route!

Hidden 24/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Bristol_Quornstar 09/Sep/16 Lead O/S
with Sam de Belder
lieraza 16/Aug/16 2nd


with Tim, Colin
TimKnight 07/Aug/16 2nd
Joemanglerocks 07/Aug/16 Lead
caradoc 31/Jul/16 Lead O/S

I found a move at around 5m tricky then straightforward but sustained after that.

with Matt H.
Wendy Watthews 24/Jul/16 2nd O/S
with Mr G
Hidden 10/Jul/16 2nd
Hidden 09/Jul/16 2nd
Hidden 03/Jul/16 2nd O/S
Stanners 03/Jun/16 2nd O/S
with Steve G
aptius 03/Jun/16 2nd O/S

Muchas gracias to Rob and Steve for letting me follow them up this - cheers for the lesson!

steve_gibbs 03/Jun/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/May/16 2nd
pheotleyr 20/May/16 Lead O/S
with Mike
Hidden 13/May/16 Lead O/S
Radical-G 13/May/16 2nd rpt
Sarah Black 05/May/16 Lead
JHC 24/Apr/16 2nd O/S
Sam Watson 24/Apr/16 Lead O/S

Not quite as wild as the guidebook would lead you to believe but fun climbing. Easy 5b.

evhall 23/Apr/16 Lead rpt

Easier then 'trial' next door!

with Tim Bray
ali.scott 02/Apr/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Apr/16 2nd
James Smith 02/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with melty
WillAndrew 02/Apr/16 2nd O/S
with Ali
mossrug 19/Mar/16 Lead O/S

Quite tricky and committing but loads of fun. Lots of good protection in the niche then a few committing moves through a tricky crux before protection once able to get a rest on firm feet. Really enjoyable. The crux not as hard as I thought it was going to be.

with Rob
Rob McGurk 06/Mar/16 Lead β
Hidden 06/Mar/16 2nd O/S
steve-grigg 06/Mar/16 2nd O/S
tradandybrown 29/Dec/15 -
with Rob andrews
Hidden 01/Nov/15 2nd
Samuel P 01/Nov/15 2nd
with Czech Vojta, Tommy
jordana86 03/Oct/15 2nd dog

Found this very strenuous in parts, struggled to get up over the flake without a rest!

Stickle Tarn 03/Oct/15 Lead O/S

HVS 5a in my opinion. Cracking route.

Mr Tickle 20/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Felt it to be a very tough HVS.

with davenev
davenev 20/Sep/15 2nd
with luke
Hidden 11/Sep/15 2nd
Neil Watson 06/Sep/15 2nd dog

Glad I had the opportunity to do this route. Well led Aidan. Worth stars.

with Aidan
Huntlyfiddler 25/Jul/15 2nd
bpmclimb 25/Jul/15 Lead rpt
with Clare
Legs 04/Jun/15 Lead O/S
gingerbex 03/Jun/15 2nd O/S
AndrewP 30/May/15 Lead O/S
stevoland 26/May/15 Lead O/S
jsmcfarland 26/May/15 2nd O/S

Very sustained HVS 5a in my book. Enough gear to place before comitting to the layback which I found fairly easy and it definitely didn't feel 5b (in perfect conditions). Lovely route and well protected.

with Steve
adam 24 26/Apr/15 2nd O/S
with Caroline
Hidden 26/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Radical-G 19/Apr/15 Lead O/S
sheelba 12/Apr/15 Lead O/S
CatMc ?/Apr/15 2nd
with clams
clams ?/Apr/15 Lead
felixizzy 21/Feb/15 Lead O/S
with Bernard
evhall 30/Dec/14 Lead
with Mike B
kp64zl ?/Nov/14 2nd O/S
ian d f 07/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with Pete H
Chris Sansum 06/Sep/14 Lead rpt
with Caroline N? Chaoimh
Rafal Malczyk 23/Aug/14 Lead dog
with mr random
mr random 23/Aug/14 2nd
with Rafael Malczyk
ollie1 22/Aug/14 Lead O/S
will_benfold 12/Jul/14 2nd rpt
Pintsize 12/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Dave Thompson 11/Jul/14 2nd
Julie Carroll 11/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Dave Thompson
Fred_Richard 30/May/14 Lead dog

What a big mess! An other day when dryer with some new arms maybe.

with terry Claxton
pimpy 25/May/14 2nd
with Charles
cem 25/May/14 2nd rpt
Kirill 25/May/14 Lead O/S
alastairbegley 21/May/14 2nd rpt
Hidden 21/May/14 Lead O/S
stevorobs3 18/May/14 Lead O/S
with Josh A
Vnockles 18/May/14 2nd
will_benfold 18/May/14 Lead O/S
Snorfalorpagus 18/May/14 2nd dog

Fell off the crux. Got it on the second attempt.

with Steve Robinson
cem 11/May/14 Lead O/S
with Tim Howard
squicky 29/Apr/14 2nd O/S

Really strenuous for an HVS, could easily have been E1. Plus crux wasn't super well protected.

with Ben
Cheese Monkey 29/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Iggy
Melonfly ?/Apr/14 2nd O/S
with Caleb
Kemics 13/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Found it quite tricky getting up to the niche? The layback and head wall are great fun. Good quality rock, good protection and nice features. I thought this was a really enjoyable climb.

with Trish, Mel
robh14 22/Sep/13 Lead
with Dunx
Dunx 22/Sep/13 2nd O/S
MD 31/Aug/13 Lead rpt
with Jo
Happy Wanderer 31/Aug/13 2nd dog

Pumped at the flake wrestling with gear removal.

with Mike D
stevelismore 27/Aug/13 2nd

Very sustained. Well pleased to have completed it without rests. Next target to lead it!

with Trevor PCC
leglesslizard ?/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Peter Lovell ?/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Dibdawg 20/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Phil Mitchel
Hidden 20/Jul/13 2nd rpt
hereford-climber 07/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Sweet climb, the hardest moves are well protected with cams.

Hidden 07/Jul/13 Lead O/S
jcasey2436 21/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Joe birchall
hrgcb 08/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Virgil Scott
gregclarke 02/Jun/13 2nd
with Brian
bpmclimb 02/Jun/13 Lead rpt
with Ben Crook, Greg Clarke, Clare
bpmclimb 02/Jun/13 TR rpt

Ran quickly back up on top rope to retrieve gear from the top. Started up the little wall to the left, which was nice and scarcely any harder than the slightly awkward normal start (although probably less protectable - didn't look too closely).

with Ben Crook, Greg Clarke, Clare
Huntlyfiddler 02/Jun/13 2nd
Dave-Westlake 18/May/13 -
alastairbegley 23/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Kyuzo 17/Mar/13 -
jon_gill1 16/Mar/13 Lead O/S
with ross garfoot
jcook1980 04/Mar/13 2nd
with Dan Moore
Neil Morbey 09/Jan/13 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2013 -
Tomar 17/Nov/12 Lead O/S

A good couple of moves

with Kelly
bonelessivar 20/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with Andy
bpmclimb 04/Oct/12 Lead rpt

Only 5a climbing, but quite sustained around the crux so HVS seems fair.

with Clare
Huntlyfiddler 04/Oct/12 2nd
fatbuoybazza 30/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Andrew Sloan 18/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Really nice route. Very well protected and never really harder than 5a.

with Tim
AndyMcCoy 24/Jul/12 2nd
with Ollie
crossdressingrodney 24/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Brilliant. Not as hard as I thought it would be. Laybacking section was barely 5a, although I found getting to the alcove slightly harder. It would be pretty straight forward if you powered through without placing gear during the layback.

with andy m
Marti999 10/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Debbie
matiamallia 09/Jun/12 Lead O/S
lukewilliams 13/May/12 2nd
ASchwirtz 06/May/12 Lead O/S

This is the climb you put a number 8 nut through your upper lip, you tit.

thomb 15/Apr/12 Lead
mike.moss 15/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Gibbo 15/Apr/12 Lead
with Tom Gibbison
masa-alpin 10/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Decent route.

with Lee P
James Marshall ?/Mar/12 Lead O/S

A bit intimidating near the start, then fantastic.

with Dick Hall, rich hard rock
Ricky Rocks 26/Feb/12 2nd O/S
with richard hall, James Marshall
Dave 88 14/Jan/12 2nd O/S

Beyond cold! Cool route in every sense.

bluesharper 14/Jan/12 Lead O/S

Went a bit to the left from the crack shorly after the route start.

with Andy
mrfeebus ??/2012 -
Chris Sansum 04/Dec/11 2nd O/S

Wrong line taken at the square block; Rich went off right instead of going up the crack.

with Richard Lade
Nick Russell 13/Nov/11 Lead O/S

Fun climbing in the short layback section, the crux move is well protected

with Craig
CraigMcAteer 13/Nov/11 2nd
with nick
Rowan Mitchell 16/Oct/11 2nd O/S
with Andre Steele
tomhill#1 17/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Sep/11 Lead O/S
msoldn 03/Sep/11 Lead O/S

great moves all the way, especially the layback sequence round the flake. you just have to ignore the fact that one day that flake will fall down, hopefully not with climber attached.

with Sam
stvredmond 01/Sep/11 Lead

why did i wait so long to head up there and get this climbed. excellent route. stopping on the layback to try and place some kit would be hard work. 3 stars. not sure about 5b too

Helnorris 01/Sep/11 2nd

Awesome climb. Credit to steve for the lead. Layback is brilliant.

kiwi boy 20/Aug/11 2nd dnf

Rained fell off. Another day

with richard williams
Hidden 19/Aug/11 Lead O/S
eduardo 06/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Ian W, Mike Den
MD 06/Aug/11 2nd β
with Ian W, Ed
Hidden 22/Mar/11 Lead O/S
bpmclimb 22/Mar/11 2nd rpt
with Helen S
RagingPuffin 07/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Mar/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 12/Feb/11 Lead O/S
Tim Sparrow ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Garron 12/Dec/10 2nd β
Paul Robertson 12/Dec/10 Lead O/S
with Garron
Robin Head 13/Nov/10 Lead O/S
with Katie
katiep 13/Nov/10 2nd O/S
bpmclimb 01/Nov/10 2nd rpt
with James Lane
stuart34 20/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Ben Smith, Jerry Crabb
Paul_southgate68 06/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with super gav
Hidden 29/Jul/10 Lead
lithos 17/Jul/10 Lead O/S

great climbing, good gear, strenuous but on good holds. weill worth it

bpmclimb 14/Jun/10 Lead rpt
with Clare
Huntlyfiddler 14/Jun/10 2nd
s.c.white 18/May/10 2nd O/S

Gorgeous climb. Spot on grade.

Hidden 18/May/10 2nd O/S
d_meacher 18/May/10 Lead O/S
mike lawrence? 28/Apr/10 Lead
with James the Navigator, Colin
gdb4060 27/Apr/10 Lead
with Will
marclloyd77 18/Apr/10 Lead O/S
dean79 18/Apr/10 2nd
Hidden 18/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Different Steve 07/Apr/10 Lead O/S

super strenuous climbing

with Emma Hawkins
irish paul 21/Mar/10 Lead O/S
with Dave Ripley
Hidden 21/Mar/10 2nd rpt
Greg Pittam 07/Mar/10 Lead O/S
with Raff
mrfeebus ??/2010 -
Macca_7 18/Oct/09 Lead O/S

Nice crux section shame its so short! Good moves on good holds

aged_ape 17/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with JC
Hidden 27/Jul/09 2nd O/S
stephaneSi 20/Jul/09 2nd
Hidden 20/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Ollie B 18/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with G.Lewis
saz_b 25/Jun/09 Lead O/S

1st hvs lead - great crux sequence

with Chris Fennings
DorsetGareth 23/Jun/09 Lead O/S
cornishben 23/Jun/09 2nd O/S
mikeshewring 13/Jun/09 Lead β
shoulders 13/Jun/09 Lead
with mikeshewring, jon shewring, dai
Dan_Carroll 13/Jun/09 2nd O/S
with Eric Herring
TimPerkin 11/Jun/09 Lead
with Dave Gale
Hidden 02/May/09 Lead O/S
bpmclimb 27/Jan/09 Lead rpt

Disconcertingly damp in places.

with Roger
al99 12/Oct/08 Lead O/S
martinazando 12/Oct/08 2nd O/S
Neil Stansbie ?/Sep/08 2nd
aldred 07/Aug/08 Lead dnf

Did all the hard bits to half way, then was too tired to finish on the wet muddy stuff.

with jamie
Hidden 29/Jun/08 Lead
leigh 29/Jun/08 2nd O/S
with Ed
DafSWMC 25/Jun/08 Lead O/S

Great laybacking.

Christian Reynish 25/Jun/08 2nd O/S
Tim W 08/Jun/08 Lead O/S
CarolineH 31/May/08 2nd O/S
with Dave and Joe
eagleopus 30/May/08 Lead
with Roger
Bristoldave 20/May/08 Lead O/S
with colin
Derek Ryden 05/May/08 Lead O/S
with Slim, Andy Forbes
LiLaMont 15/Apr/08 2nd β
tobydunford 15/Apr/08 Lead O/S
Mark Walter 17/Feb/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 17/Feb/08 Lead O/S
HuwT ?/Aug/07 2nd
Wil Treasure ?/Aug/07 Lead
with HuwT
Jim Slater 28/May/07 Lead dog

Dropped back on to gear a couple times attempting the layback sequence. Quality climb.

with Mirek
Fat Tim 18/Mar/07 Lead O/S
with Mark Courteir
Boxy 07/May/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Jul/05 Lead O/S
Jason Gotel ?/Jun/05 Lead O/S
with Pippa Lansdown
Huntlyfiddler 13/May/05 2nd
bpmclimb 13/May/05 Lead O/S
with Clare
Mark Davies PK ?/Nov/03 2nd
with David Elder
Wil Treasure ?/Jun/03 Lead
with Malcolm
Hidden 19/Mar/03 2nd O/S
greedo ??/2003 2nd
with Tim bray
tom.e ??/2003 2nd O/S
with Charlie Everett
goi.ashmore 20/Jul/02 Lead O/S
with Roy Thomas
simon kimber ??/2002 2nd
with Tony Penning, Gavin Cytlau
Jason Gotel ?/Jun/01 Lead O/S
with Tim Weekes
Hidden ?/Feb/01 Lead O/S
lost.arrow 08/Jul/00 -
Roget 01/May/00 2nd O/S
liabilityliz 25/Jun/98 2nd
with Mark Trepte
Hidden ??/1998 Lead
Martin Bennett 27/Aug/94 -
with MT
Didymus 30/Apr/94 Lead O/S
with Marcus
Hidden 10/Aug/93 Lead
sdht ??/1991 -
Jelly Mould Surfer 31/Mar/90 Lead O/S
GordonHart ??/1989 Lead O/S
with Dr. Jeremy
davemhart ??/1988 Lead O/S
sadams 24/Nov/85 Lead
with Aylesbury CC
Ken Taylor 15/Oct/78 AltLd
with Gerry Dunford
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 62
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 60
Votes cast 57
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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Flashed (β)
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