500m, 9 pitches.

Rockfax Description
This route follows the large groove in the left side of Hægefjell's south face. The route is completely naturally protected and offers a combination of friction, crack and groove climbing. It is useful to bring some bigger cams.
Approach - From the campground/parking area follow the road along the base of the mountain. For Hægar continue until you are under the large groove and walk straight up to it. Tip: try to locate the most worn path as this is the best.
1) N5, 50m. Follow crack formations more or less straight up. Most people choose to solo the first lower-angled slabs and where you start depends on how far you are willing to walk/solo up before you put on a rope.
2) N6, 30m. Further friction climbing up flakes leads to a friction move to gain a ledge. (Large cam needed). Arrange a belay at the ledge above.
3) N4+, 45m. Climb diagonally along a ramp to gain the bottom of the large groove and continue up this. Belay on a grassy ledge (or do the next short pitch as well if you have 60m ropes).
4) 15m. Continue to the next grassy ledge.
5) N6+, 40m. Climb the beautiful groove with finger-sized crack - strenuous at the start - and continue up to a spectacular finish turning the lip. Belay in an alcove just above.
6) N5+, 50m. Follow the big crack leftwards. It is better climbed by friction on the left side but it is also possible to climb as a chimney/offwith. Belay where the angle eases.
7) 45m. Easy climbing leads to the bottom of the second groove.
8) N5+, 45m. Climb the flaky groove to a belay in a brilliant position.
9) 50m. Climb slabby terrain to a grass ledge. From here it is possible to walk off to the left.
Descent - From the top of the mountain, follow the ridge west (plenty of cairns) and pass one steep section before you head down a slab into a gully that cuts across your path. Turn right and descend more steeply, down a very well-worn path through the woods. This path joins a blue-marked path that leads down to the road beneath Hægefjell. Follow the road back to the camp. The descent takes approximately 1.5 hours. © Rockfax

FA. 1988 by either Øyvind Moss and H. Lykkja or Götz Wiechmann, T. Metscher, S. Bernert and U. Wilkening. 15/Jun/1988

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
annak 5 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
Big Lee 5 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S An amazing line. One of the best rock routes I've climbed in any form. Nice to do a route at Hægefjell without any bolts as well. Led the slab and corner cruxes. The main slab pitch was surprisingly good, although the crux was a little bold with gear below my feet and quite lateral (no big cam placement as stated in RF). The crux corner pitch was very sustained, although generally with good layback edges and always bomber gear. Anna led the offwidth variant, which was actually excellent. Would say the route is n6, rather than n6+. The German guidebook grades it UIAA 6+, which is essentially the same as n6. About E1 5b/c.
An amazing line. One of the best rock routes I've climbed in any form. Nice to do a route at Hægefjell without any bolts as well. Led the slab and corner cruxes. The main slab pitch was surprisingly good, although the crux was a little bold with gear below my feet and quite lateral (no big cam placement as stated in RF). The crux corner pitch was very sustained, although generally with good layback edges and always bomber gear. Anna led the offwidth variant, which was actually excellent. Would say the route is n6, rather than n6+. The German guidebook grades it UIAA 6+, which is essentially the same as n6. About E1 5b/c.
tinydancer 5 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S Led pitches 3 and 8. Brilliant climb, with a little bit of everything- committing slabs, face climbing, heavy laybacking, offwidth... it was long and tiring but thoroughly enjoyable.
with Big Lee
Led pitches 3 and 8. Brilliant climb, with a little bit of everything- committing slabs, face climbing, heavy laybacking, offwidth... it was long and tiring but thoroughly enjoyable.
with Big Lee
ilbuiz 16 Jun, 2017 AltLd all trad, I did the crux (wet as hell)
all trad, I did the crux (wet as hell)
astrange 26 May, 2017 AltLd O/S Great climb on a sunny day. Fantastic line and quality rock. Highly recommend!
with Niels Rigels
Great climb on a sunny day. Fantastic line and quality rock. Highly recommend!
with Niels Rigels
davewragg 27 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S Brilliant climbing following the most obvious feature of the face. I led the slab and the big corner and Matt got the off width (we used the left hand finger crack at the top ) and the flake crack. leading the crux after a lean summer of climbing felt good. Requires a wide range of techniques!
with Matt Steffensen
Brilliant climbing following the most obvious feature of the face. I led the slab and the big corner and Matt got the off width (we used the left hand finger crack at the top ) and the flake crack. leading the crux after a lean summer of climbing felt good. Requires a wide range of techniques!
with Matt Steffensen
bridget143 15 Aug, 2016 AltLd Led lots of the easier pitches. Sat on rope on 6+ section due to a stuck wire needing retreiving otherwise clean. 7- friction crux mentioned in Gå Telemark guide is not that technically hard, maybe 6 but run-out for the leader.
with Simen
Led lots of the easier pitches. Sat on rope on 6+ section due to a stuck wire needing retreiving otherwise clean. 7- friction crux mentioned in Gå Telemark guide is not that technically hard, maybe 6 but run-out for the leader.
with Simen
PhilipO ?Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S
with John N
with John N
Hidden 1 Jun, 2014 AltLd β
saaruli 1 Jun, 2014 AltLd β Got some gear and route beta from the Norwegian climbers.
with erik..
Got some gear and route beta from the Norwegian climbers.
with erik..
richgac 25 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S Superb
with Bjørn
Superb
with Bjørn
Hidden 15 Sep, 2010 2nd O/S
Erkke ?Jun, 2009 AltLd β Led the crux pitches, very impressive and exposed fourth pitch. A hot day.
with Jody
Led the crux pitches, very impressive and exposed fourth pitch. A hot day.
with Jody
Jody ?Jun, 2009 AltLd rpt Led pitches seconded last time. Climbed the left finger crack on the pitch after the crux. Nice climbing in a great position.
with Erkke
Led pitches seconded last time. Climbed the left finger crack on the pitch after the crux. Nice climbing in a great position.
with Erkke
andyinglis 18 Jul, 2008 AltLd O/S
with neil adams
with neil adams
Neil Adams 18 Jul, 2008 AltLd O/S
Mattyk 21 Jul, 2007 AltLd O/S Really nice route, crux pitch a bit wet even after 2 days drying out.
with ali k
Really nice route, crux pitch a bit wet even after 2 days drying out.
with ali k
Hidden 21 Jul, 2007 AltLd O/S
Jody 11 Jun, 2007 AltLd O/S Beautiful crux corner pitch.
with TonyB
Beautiful crux corner pitch.
with TonyB
Hidden 11 Jun, 2007 AltLd
graniterocks ?Sep, 2006 AltLd
Stiga ??, 1996 AltLd G/U
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Voting
High n7-
Mid n7-
Low n7-
High n6+
Mid n6+
Low n6+
High n6
Mid n6
Low n6
Votes cast 8
Votes cast 8
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Followed
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Ground Up
Not Set