Climbs the wall right of Red Flag past two pegs (if they are currently in place and not snapped off, etc). Relatively straightforward climbing but run-out, with the crux at around 4m. Grade debate rages colorfully on this one, but everyone in the know knows that death is inevitable and it's really E4.

Ticklists: Central Belt Extremes.

william henderson 26/Aug Lead rpt
Martin McKenna - UKC 23/Aug Lead rpt
fuzzysheep01 22/Aug Lead O/S

Probably the best route I've done at Limekilns. Two reasonable micro wires protect the move up to the first peg (though I thought the lower wall was just as hard if not harder). Beautiful crimpy but straightforward climbing to the top. Both pegs seem in good nick.

Hidden 25/Jun Lead dnf
Hidden 23/Jun 2nd
Hidden 23/Jun Lead
BIain 18/Jun 2nd dnf
with Moritz Morlok
GMohr 18/Jun Lead RP
with Kenny
william henderson 13/Jun 2nd rpt
Hugh Simons 11/May Lead O/S

There are currently 2 pegs on the route, both are good. E2 5b seems fair, although all the hard climbing is below the 1st peg.

with Alison
alisoncraig94 11/May 2nd O/S
nickb1 08/May 2nd O/S
with josh
william henderson 05/May 2nd rpt
AmyG 04/May 2nd
salix 04/May Lead rpt
with Amy
Oliver Smaje 02/May Lead rpt
with Beth
william henderson 02/May 2nd O/S
MightyStew 27/Mar TR rpt

Toprope solo

MightyStew 27/Mar TR rpt

Toprope solo

GMohr 02/Jan TR O/S
with Kenny
Conor Nally 25/Oct/16 Lead
Oliver Smaje 25/Oct/16 2nd O/S
Gordon Lacey 31/Jul/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Jul/16 2nd O/S
Hidden 07/Jul/16 TR O/S
Hidden 16/May/16 TR rpt
Elsier 16/May/16 TR
with Louise
Angus Rankin 12/May/16 Lead O/S

Scary up to the only peg near the top, only one good micro at the bottom and two questionable nuts. Scary! Definitely only one peg on this route, felt pretty exposed for E2...... More like E3. UPDATE: 19/07/16 I saw that a new peg has been placed on the route (above where the old one was).

with Tom L
Dr Toph 19/Apr/16 Lead rpt

First peg missing i think. I did find a nice slot further up for a size zero mastercam though.

with Cecile
Fergus Eakin 20/Mar/16 TR
AxelC 23/Jan/16 Lead O/S

First repeat since bottom peg broke? bold.

CurlyStevo ??/2016 TR

Probably about F6a/F6a+ climbing but in a serious situation. Wouldn't lead this, but very nice moves.

Hidden 16/Sep/15 2nd
Hidden 03/Aug/15 TR dog
samhyndman 17/Jun/15 TR O/S
Hidden 23/Apr/15 2nd
MightyStew 21/Apr/15 2nd rpt
HaddRoots 21/Apr/15 Lead RP

Toproped ages ago, led today. Good sustained route

salix 16/Apr/15 Solo rpt

Ooof, those pegs were missed - it's all there though.

with Topher
Timothy Miller 14/Apr/15 Lead O/S

nice route

with sammy D
James90 04/Apr/15 TR rpt
Chris dyer 04/Apr/15 TR dog

Good fun! very tough though!

with Stuart Smith, Ash Murrell
arose 18/Nov/14 Lead

Solid size 2 brass offset at crux. Good route

with Scott Brooks, Miles Mconville
stuc 18/Oct/14 -
with Dutch
el diablo 11/Sep/14 Lead
Stuart Macfarlane 11/Sep/14 2nd
with John D
Pat-H 09/Sep/14 2nd β
with mike
Shed 30/Aug/14 TR O/S
HaddRoots 24/Aug/14 TR O/S
Dr Toph 24/Aug/14 Solo rpt
Hidden 29/Jul/14 2nd
MightyStew 03/Jul/14 2nd dog
whispering nic 28/Jun/14 Lead rpt
stugreen75 25/Jun/14 Lead rpt

Started raining half way up. Annual ascent.

with Alex Vesco
ejj 16/Jun/14 2nd

seconded clean

John McKenna 27/May/14 Lead RP
Roberttaylor 21/May/14 Lead rpt
fall-line 15/May/14 Lead RP

Top-roped once. Pretty straightforward when you know the moves. Soft for E2?

with Anne Peale, Damon Davies, Sarah Kirton
skirton 15/May/14 TR
Martin McKenna - UKC 14/May/14 Lead β
Hidden 28/Apr/14 TR rpt
Hidden 28/Apr/14 TR rpt
Hidden 08/Apr/14 2nd
Natalie feather ?/Apr/14 Lead
stugreen75 12/Mar/14 Lead rpt

Lovely warm day. Warm up. One bomber micro low down and then the pegs.

with Ewan
sikcby 24/Nov/13 Lead O/S

Perfect positive crimps.

Brian Pollock 22/Sep/13 Lead O/S

steady climbing on positive crimps the whole way. Great fun.

Martin Mc 14/Aug/13 Solo rpt
with Tas
CMcBain 31/Jul/13 -

Holding rope for Ross, protected start with cam side runners.

with Ross M
jjax 18/Jul/13 2nd rpt

Yes :) Didn't fall this time :)

with Louise
Hidden 18/Jul/13 TR rpt
Roberttaylor 16/Jul/13 Lead RP
with Isolde
allyrocke 15/Jul/13 Lead rpt
with Andrew Latham, Matt King
mattking_109 15/Jul/13 2nd
with Ally Rocke
stugreen75 12/Jul/13 Lead rpt

Warm up....a bit too hot for Limekilns today though. All felt a little greasy.

with dominic jeff
James90 10/Jul/13 2nd β
with dave
M Mathieson 10/Jul/13 TR dog
with Scott, Chris
David Stevens 10/Jul/13 Lead RP
with James Priestly
Hidden 08/Jul/13 TR rpt
Hidden ?/Jul/13 2nd
Gabe Oliver 26/Jun/13 Lead O/S

beautiful route. seems to be a common mistake to try and fiddle in a micro at the bottom, dont bother. good holds all the way!

JosefGoeth 14/Jun/13 TR
James90 02/Jun/13 TR O/S
with Marnoch
mhamiltonj 02/Jun/13 TR RP

Lovely, wouldn't lead it for many moneys.

with James
gjd 02/Jun/13 Lead dnf
with Hutch
Neil Adams 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Have been putting this off for years so glad to find it's actually not too bad

with Ross B
annep11 17/May/13 TR O/S
Roberttaylor 17/May/13 TR rpt
salix 05/May/13 Lead rpt
with Frazer
alex toomey 19/Feb/13 2nd O/S
with harry holmes, cesa sophia
Ross Barnes 17/Feb/13 Lead O/S
with Nicola
son of thor ??/2013 2nd

Great crimpy climbing, lots of holds if you find them. Felt like an indoor 6b+[c] have the pegs been replaced they look newish?

robertmichaellovell 10/Oct/12 Lead
with Andy H, Sam
a_hein 10/Oct/12 2nd
el diablo 05/Sep/12 2nd
with James Sutton
radioshed 02/Aug/12 -
with Ross young
Hidden 29/Jul/12 Lead
Hidden 26/Jul/12 TR rpt
Hidden 17/Jul/12 Solo rpt
craig cameron 26/Jun/12 2nd O/S

First E2 second , hard start up to the first piton then holds get alot easier after the second pition.

with Rab
rob10150 26/Jun/12 Lead RP

had a go few days ago and couldnt nail the start, just had an off day, very easy and nice crimpy delicate moves.

with craig cameron
wee_jonny_gillespie - BAD SELLER 24/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Climbed and only clipped to two pegs big run outs

with Chris Brodie
gaz.marshall 18/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Dave
Hidden 12/Jun/12 TR O/S
oliverk 12/Jun/12 TR β
ksneds 29/May/12 2nd

Not sure I would like to lead this just yet. First peg quite a bit off the deck !

with Mike L.
Dr Toph 27/May/12 Solo rpt
Hidden 25/May/12 Lead rpt
sergio46 25/May/12 TR rpt
Ian Jones 25/May/12 TR
robertmichaellovell 24/May/12 Lead

annual ascent

with Andi
Hidden 15/May/12 Solo rpt
stugreen75 09/May/12 Lead rpt

A couple of good micros which are easyish to place to start with and then pretty steady stuff. Spaced gear but soft climbing for the grade.

with jason
jazzyjackson 09/May/12 2nd
with stuart
stugreen75 29/Apr/12 Lead rpt
stugreen75 12/Apr/12 2nd O/S
with dominic jeff
stewnew 01/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with dowser
allyrocke 01/Apr/12 Lead rpt

Found a sneaky RP to settle my nerves before the first peg!

Harry Holmes 01/Apr/12 Solo rpt
markolst 31/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Mar/12 TR O/S
Mhairi G 24/Mar/12 TR RP

Started too far over to the left and got stuck left of the peg. Came down and did it again ground up on the right hand side. Lovely route.

with Herman
Harry Holmes 18/Mar/12 Lead rpt
with Joanna
horsefeathers 18/Mar/12 2nd O/S
with Harry
JasonK ??/2012 2nd
with John Nelson
Iain2754 29/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Lee
Hidden 29/Sep/11 2nd dog
Chad123 28/Sep/11 AltLd rpt

Still hard to grade, seems like a long reach on the crux now, some holds fallen off I think?

with Sam
dctarrant2000 05/Sep/11 Lead rpt
with Polly Tarrant
John 'B' Hutchinson 22/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Nice flowing climbing. Best to soldier on to the peg rather than fiddle in micro wires!

with Donald Somerville
robertmichaellovell 09/Aug/11 Lead
with Andi, Leisha
Hidden 27/Jul/11 2nd O/S
zoeduffin 04/Jul/11 2nd
sneaks 30/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with janey
Hidden 30/Jun/11 Lead O/S
jacobfinn 28/Jun/11 TR dnf
with jjax
jjax 28/Jun/11 TR dog

managed to get up it this time, with only a wee fall. gets a lot easier after the 1st peg.

with claire
melville18 28/Jun/11 TR rpt
with claire melville
Hidden 28/Jun/11 TR
melville18 20/Jun/11 TR dog
with claire melville
jacobfinn 20/Jun/11 TR dog

Lovely climb, on a top rope at least! Hard moves getting past the wee overhang, then just a crimp-fest to the top. 2nd attempt after being too pumped on the first.

jjax 20/Jun/11 TR dnf

ahh fingers too sore to hold on as last climb of the day. prob wouldn't have made much difference tho as found the crux bloody hard work.

with jason
karinh 30/May/11 TR O/S
with harry
JP78 30/May/11 TR

Self belay

sebrider 29/May/11 Lead O/S

The pegs are good. I enjoyed this, especially after the first peg was clipped :)

with R. Rider
Hidden 14/May/11 2nd
Plungeman 03/May/11 TR O/S
with Dave S, Matt
David Stevens 03/May/11 TR O/S
HeatReactor 02/May/11 TR O/S

Thin but good holds that scour your fingers.. Still can't believe I got up.

robertmichaellovell 20/Apr/11 Lead

no micros

with Dom
Peter Rhodes 07/Apr/11 2nd rpt
Hidden 07/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Apr/11 2nd
Hidden 20/Mar/11 2nd
Hidden 20/Mar/11 2nd
Harry Holmes 02/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Fran Coles
Hidden 25/Jan/11 TR rpt
sergio46 27/Aug/10 2nd O/S

Really enjoyed the climb, crimpy, good footwork.

Ian Jones 27/Aug/10 Lead rpt

Needed a warm up after weeks of sloth.

with Serge Gomez
Hidden 21/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Chris J Houston 21/Aug/10 Lead O/S
T Break 29/Jul/10 TR
with Helen
mark1atkins 24/Jul/10 Lead

E3 in SMC guidebook 2004

with Mark Worsley
rob askew 11/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with nick brindley
Hidden 11/Jul/10 2nd O/S
andybroadway 15/Jun/10 2nd
with Brian Whitworth
robertmichaellovell 15/Jun/10 Lead
with Clare
Hidden 31/May/10 Lead
j_nelson 20/May/10 2nd
with shugsan
shugsan 20/May/10 Lead rpt
tomdude 18/May/10 2nd rpt
with rob
robertmichaellovell 18/May/10 Lead

repeat - still a cool route

with Tom
pocketsarah 16/May/10 2nd rpt
with andrew
make 28/Apr/10 2nd
Sean Bell 16/Apr/10 2nd

Nice climbing on decent holds.

with Neil Carnegie
squidgebob 15/Apr/10 2nd O/S
with jamie
Hidden 15/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Tom Baird 14/Mar/10 2nd dog

A great climb to second, I should have cleaned it but the crux was tricky. I don't ever want to lead this climb.

with Scott
Liam Ingram 17/Feb/10 TR rpt
with Katie Main
Liam Ingram 11/Nov/09 Lead RP
allyrocke 11/Nov/09 2nd
chrism225 07/Nov/09 2nd dog
with dave
Hidden 31/Oct/09 2nd
Lawrie Brand 31/Oct/09 Lead rpt

Annual ascent..

with Susan Mc
burto 14/Oct/09 Lead rpt
with clare
robertmichaellovell 04/Oct/09 Lead

thank you to the nice chap at the crag for a belay

with Ali
Hidden 25/Sep/09 Lead RP
Hidden 06/Aug/09 Lead O/S
ShoePolice 05/Aug/09 Lead β

messed up the crux but got through

with Kate & Duncs
Dr Toph 02/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Didnt bother with gear til the peg, but the climbing is fairly straightforward. E2

with Ally Hill
jim.macp 01/Jul/09 -
kevg 26/Jun/09 Lead rpt
with Cam
Hidden 26/Jun/09 2nd O/S
KatBlum 25/Jun/09 TR dog
stuartmunn 23/Jun/09 Lead dnf

That peg is just too far away!

with Chris Barnett
tomdude 22/Jun/09 Lead O/S

wouldn't want to fall off before the first peg, but fine after that. very enjoyable

with andi and fede
sparkass 19/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Ally Baba 28/May/09 Solo
jonnie3430 24/May/09 Lead O/S
with John
Fraser 21/May/09 2nd β
with Kev
kevg 21/May/09 Lead rpt

Shower started just as I set off. Waited still it stopped, then climbed it on greasy holds. Still Ok though.

with Fraser
Roberttaylor 17/May/09 2nd dog

Nice climb, tough and sustained.

JdotP 17/May/09 2nd dog
with Luke Dangerfield, Joe Larner
joe larner 17/May/09 Lead O/S

Got four wires in to protect crux. But very serious approaching the peg with the tree stump underneath. Easy E3 imho.

pete87abs 19/Apr/09 2nd dog

Fell right at the start where i think the crux is by microwire placments needed to work left on crimps. Good crimpy climbing

with Dave Brigham, Thom Simmons
dj_brigham05 19/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Apr/09 Lead O/S
CharlieMack 13/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Duncan Wallace
Hidden 10/Apr/09 Lead
Hidden 03/Apr/09 Lead dog
Hawkscry ?/Apr/09 Lead O/S
ropeaccessryan 25/Mar/09 -
with Mike
Hidden 18/Mar/09 2nd dog
holly138 18/Mar/09 TR dog
Fergus Cuthill 18/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with Fiona M
CalumC 15/Mar/09 Lead rpt
7om ?/Mar/09 TR β
MonkeyDawson ??/2009 Lead
Hidden ??/2009 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Nov/08 2nd
Chad123 25/Sep/08 AltLd rpt
with Viv and Duncan
Andy Moles 04/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Malc, Tom B
mikecopp ?/Sep/08 Lead
MonkeyDawson 28/Jun/08 Lead rpt
with DJ Noblett
Hidden 27/Jun/08 2nd
andymoin 11/Jun/08 Lead RP

Top roped it ages ago so putting it down as RP, didn't work it tho. Really shaky scary start (were's my head gone) then all good once I got to the peg. Got a surprising amount of gear in 3 good rps for crux, a good nut and 2 cams + pegs.

with Big Al
Alasdair Fulton 07/Jun/08 Lead O/S

Got 1 decent(ish) micro and 2 bodyweight ones then moved up to the peg. Great climbing, bit unnerving though! I'd say E3 for the onsight.

MonkeyDawson 07/Jun/08 Lead RP

Easy for grade...

Hidden 07/Jun/08 2nd β
Hidden 25/May/08 TR
mhairi thorburn 20/May/08 Lead β

first e3, very easy for the grade i think, but bold!

with adam
D.Russell 15/May/08 Lead
with Brittany
Hidden 02/May/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Apr/08 Lead O/S
D.Russell 29/Apr/08 Lead β

put micros in before the crux but they fell out continued until i reach 1st peg with no protection. then easier through to the top

with Adam
Lawrie Brand 26/Apr/08 Lead rpt
Dougie Harvey 25/Apr/08 Lead O/S
decs 16/Apr/08 2nd O/S
with Chad
Chad123 16/Apr/08 AltLd rpt

Felt super easy today - very positive holds all the way. E2 5b if you trust/use the small wires (at least 3 good ones), E3 if not..

with Duncan
Spade 13/Feb/08 2nd
with Jake Rodgers
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 Lead O/S
MCL ??/2008 TR
jess ??/2008 Lead O/S
with martin
Hidden ??/2008 2nd
Hidden ??/2008 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Nov/07 TR dnf
akhughes 15/Oct/07 Solo
simondunf 27/Sep/07 Lead β
with beau
Lawrie Brand 25/Sep/07 Lead rpt
mgeek ?/Sep/07 Solo rpt
Dangerous Dave 16/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Chad123 15/Aug/07 AltLd rpt

Hard to grade this one cos gear is fiddly at bottom, but not E3, E2 5b seems a fair grade. Nice rock and moves though.

with Greg
gforce 02/Aug/07 Lead
with Jason
Hidden 31/Jul/07 Lead O/S
pocketsarah 30/Jul/07 2nd dog
Stuart Macfarlane 26/Jul/07 TR
with Jeanie
Ian Jones 24/Jul/07 Lead O/S

Surely not 4 grades harder than the 'VS' aretes? 3 good little wires for the crux , then it is a path!

with Tony Green
mars 15/Jul/07 Lead β

Only gear (bolt) as old as me

with Lawrie Brand
jazzyjackson 07/Jul/07 Lead β

Soft touch E3. An enjoyable crimpfest.

with Ally
Hidden 07/Jul/07 2nd
Lawrie Brand 26/Jun/07 Lead rpt
with Pete k
Stuart Macfarlane 23/May/07 2nd
with John D
el diablo 23/May/07 Lead
Lawrie Brand 23/May/07 Lead β
with Richie
Stewart B 20/May/07 Lead O/S
with Graham Brown (Father)
Lawrie Brand 26/Apr/07 2nd O/S
with Richie
Greg Boswell 16/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Hay ?/Apr/07 2nd
with Greg
pete dd ?/Mar/07 Lead O/S
with Iain Swan
Piglet ??/2007 Lead
el diablo ??/2007 Lead
mshorter ??/2007 Lead O/S
with ross
Chris(cface!) ??/2007 2nd
with Dangerous Dave
figfour ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 2nd
francois 20/Jul/06 2nd
with Kev, Alastair
Nick Beckett ?/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with various
Nick Beckett ?/Jun/06 Lead
with various
Roch 30/May/06 2nd
Hidden ?/Apr/06 TR β
andymoin 26/Feb/06 TR β

waa my first e+ not as hard as a thought it would be

with Shelly Barbour
Chad123 ??/2006 2nd
with Emily
Hidden ??/2006 Lead O/S
barney_edin 29/Aug/05 Lead RP
paulpitcher ?/Jun/05 TR O/S
with Angus Dell & Lars
dodfoster 13/Apr/05 Lead β

sustained 5b but excellent holds throughout, soft touch E3

with dom kehoe
catt 24/Apr/04 2nd O/S
with Kev
Dave Kerr 05/Sep/03 Lead
with Colin Gregg
Hidden ?/Jun/03 Lead rpt
ali_robb ?/Jun/03 Lead O/S
whispering nic ?/May/03 Lead
with The Wife
Bruce Kerr 05/May/00 2nd
with Fergus Murray, Malcolm Davies
Nick Biven 07/Aug/92 TR
Neil Henderson ??/1988 -
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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 57
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 64
Votes cast 59
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set