220m, 9 pitches.

Rockfax Description
1) 5c, 2) 6a+, 3) 3, 4) 5a, 5) 4a, 6) 5c, 7) 4c, 8) 5c, 9) 5a.
The classic of the buttress and the most popular route here by quite a margin. The crux wall/offwidth on the 2nd pitch is short-lived but quite taxing. It is possible to miss out the first two pitches by following a vague track (exposed) out to a belay by the arête about 70m above the base of the cliff. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Verdon

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
oddis 29 Sep AltLd O/S Approach felt easy if you do the homework. Led odd pitches. First route of the week and got a good spanking on the off-width on the second pitch. Cruising from there on. Fantastic scenery and nice introduction to Verdon.
Approach felt easy if you do the homework. Led odd pitches. First route of the week and got a good spanking on the off-width on the second pitch. Cruising from there on. Fantastic scenery and nice introduction to Verdon.
cad1999 14 Sep AltLd O/S Sections of fantastic climbing (amongst some easier, more mundane pitches). Some exposure at points, would recommend looking down to appreciate the view. Overall the climb felt very within my comfort zone but got a great sense of satisfaction from climbing the gorge bottom to top. Would recommend! I lead even pitches. The P2 offwidth felt in-control and I managed to get through gracefully without any desperate, thrutchy moves. I was grateful to lead it as my second revealed it to be significantly more uncomfortable to climb with a rucksack! A note about the descent: We got a bit lost and prepared to ab from the small tree mentioned in some other ukc comments (the one with lots of tat). My partner back tracked and found the correct path. Its an easy mistake to make as the correct path temporarily goes upwards while the natural instinct is to descend. I would advise that if you are descending what feels like quite an involved downclimb and there are no metal spikes to hold, you are probably going the wrong way!
with Oliver Tippet
Sections of fantastic climbing (amongst some easier, more mundane pitches). Some exposure at points, would recommend looking down to appreciate the view. Overall the climb felt very within my comfort zone but got a great sense of satisfaction from climbing the gorge bottom to top. Would recommend! I lead even pitches. The P2 offwidth felt in-control and I managed to get through gracefully without any desperate, thrutchy moves. I was grateful to lead it as my second revealed it to be significantly more uncomfortable to climb with a rucksack! A note about the descent: We got a bit lost and prepared to ab from the small tree mentioned in some other ukc comments (the one with lots of tat). My partner back tracked and found the correct path. Its an easy mistake to make as the correct path temporarily goes upwards while the natural instinct is to descend. I would advise that if you are descending what feels like quite an involved downclimb and there are no metal spikes to hold, you are probably going the wrong way!
with Oliver Tippet
oliver_tippett 13 Sep AltLd dog Amazing route with exposed juggy top pitches and great views. Great as a first route in the gorge. The bolting was very Verdon in places, but the climbing was so easy between the spaced bolts that if you fall you deserve a 20m whipper some gear would help if you’re not confident. For the descent, if you reach the abseil tree; go back 20-30m up the slope and turn towards the arête through a gap in the rock. We were about to abseil when I found the way. Did it in 7 pitches despite starting from the ground, not sure which we linked since all of mine had horrible rope drag and a few of my partner’s were really long. Unfortunately I couldn’t do the offwidth with the large backpack I was taking up as second. I’d like to say I could have led it without the backpack, but I fucking hate offwidths. Started early and finished before lunch. Good day out.
Amazing route with exposed juggy top pitches and great views. Great as a first route in the gorge. The bolting was very Verdon in places, but the climbing was so easy between the spaced bolts that if you fall you deserve a 20m whipper some gear would help if you’re not confident. For the descent, if you reach the abseil tree; go back 20-30m up the slope and turn towards the arête through a gap in the rock. We were about to abseil when I found the way. Did it in 7 pitches despite starting from the ground, not sure which we linked since all of mine had horrible rope drag and a few of my partner’s were really long. Unfortunately I couldn’t do the offwidth with the large backpack I was taking up as second. I’d like to say I could have led it without the backpack, but I fucking hate offwidths. Started early and finished before lunch. Good day out.
Rowanooijen 3 Sep Lead O/S lekkere inklim
lekkere inklim
KristianBirchall 3 Sep Lead O/S Somehow finished in 7 - Claire led odd pitches
with Claire Chadderton
Somehow finished in 7 - Claire led odd pitches
with Claire Chadderton
Rami 3 Sep Lead rpt
Hidden 3 Sep 2nd
Stamper 19 Aug AltLd O/S Amazing climb, great views, very popular so get there early which also means you climb in the shade. Nothing harder than 5c.
Amazing climb, great views, very popular so get there early which also means you climb in the shade. Nothing harder than 5c.
Ben Sippel 9 Jun Lead O/S
with Luke Weaver
with Luke Weaver
codenamel 9 Jun AltLd O/S
beefcake 5 Jun -
Hidden 13 Apr AltLd O/S
Dohnny_Jawes 13 Apr AltLd O/S Not 3 star, 1 maybe 2 at best
Not 3 star, 1 maybe 2 at best
ARiches 24 Feb Lead O/S Started at pitch 4. Don’t abseil the approach!!
Started at pitch 4. Don’t abseil the approach!!
TommyKips 17 Oct, 2018 Lead O/S
with CecWend
with CecWend
CecWend 17 Oct, 2018 2nd O/S
watson.b 7 Sep, 2018 AltLd
Adamski1986 7 Sep, 2018 AltLd
Blackcountrybill 12 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
Philoosh 2 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S
Jessica Brown 3 Apr, 2018 AltLd
akamolphat ?Apr, 2018 AltLd O/S
Catbaul 28 Mar, 2018 -
tsyrett 16 Nov, 2017 AltLd O/S Got lost on the walk down not paying attention and ended up abbing down a pretty loose gully from tat left in 3 trees (obviously not the first). I had the pleasure of getting stuck in to (literally) the crux pitch and another right hand variation offwidth on about pitch 6 to spice things up a bit. The other pitches were pretty cruisy and we just managed to stay in the sun as the shadow chased us up the route. We were the only people on it and all in all a pretty fun adventure but I don't think I'd climb it again. 1 hr Down 2.5 Up
Got lost on the walk down not paying attention and ended up abbing down a pretty loose gully from tat left in 3 trees (obviously not the first). I had the pleasure of getting stuck in to (literally) the crux pitch and another right hand variation offwidth on about pitch 6 to spice things up a bit. The other pitches were pretty cruisy and we just managed to stay in the sun as the shadow chased us up the route. We were the only people on it and all in all a pretty fun adventure but I don't think I'd climb it again. 1 hr Down 2.5 Up
kermit_uk 22 Sep, 2017 AltLd O/S First route in Verdon in 15 years I think. Decent is fine though took 1:15hr due to taking very steady and going the wrong way twice. Did in 8 pitches tho still not sure which two we strung together though probably some of the top 3. Led odd numbered pitches. Cracking route, first two pitches will bring out the gritstone thrutcher in you!
First route in Verdon in 15 years I think. Decent is fine though took 1:15hr due to taking very steady and going the wrong way twice. Did in 8 pitches tho still not sure which two we strung together though probably some of the top 3. Led odd numbered pitches. Cracking route, first two pitches will bring out the gritstone thrutcher in you!
Keith Swainson 20 Sep, 2017 AltLd O/S Lead the even no. pitches from the low start.
Lead the even no. pitches from the low start.
Georgie25 20 Sep, 2017 AltLd Did the full route right from the bottom, I led odd numbered pitches - in pitch 3 managed to wander off into something a lot harder before getting back on route! Great fun, a few tricky moves in first 2 pitches rest was fine.
Did the full route right from the bottom, I led odd numbered pitches - in pitch 3 managed to wander off into something a lot harder before getting back on route! Great fun, a few tricky moves in first 2 pitches rest was fine.
Gbsicotte 19 Sep, 2017 2nd 2nd mulipitch in Verdon and we absolutely loved it! Skipped the first two pitches making the climb a bit shorter due to imminent rain. The views are breathtaking and the holds are good. It may be crowded in good weather days but absolutely worth it. The approach is quite dodgy though... make sure you're not rushing down too fast.
with Ned Western
2nd mulipitch in Verdon and we absolutely loved it! Skipped the first two pitches making the climb a bit shorter due to imminent rain. The views are breathtaking and the holds are good. It may be crowded in good weather days but absolutely worth it. The approach is quite dodgy though... make sure you're not rushing down too fast.
with Ned Western
Martin Haworth 10 Sep, 2017 AltLd O/S
m.powell02 4 Sep, 2017 AltLd O/S Struggled massively leading the 6A+ pitch in the baking sun.. not my style!
with Fwood94
Struggled massively leading the 6A+ pitch in the baking sun.. not my style!
with Fwood94
Hidden 4 Sep, 2017 AltLd rpt
Hidden 4 Sep, 2017 AltLd O/S
Small and weak 9 Aug, 2017 AltLd
with Jas Wood
with Jas Wood
Connor170 8 Aug, 2017 AltLd
cmars89 29 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S Best pitch was the off width, 5c's were soft.
with Ryan Weber
Best pitch was the off width, 5c's were soft.
with Ryan Weber
Hidden 20 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S
Laurence Mitchell 20 Jun, 2017 AltLd
with twill
with twill
Hidden 30 May, 2017 Lead O/S
Hidden 21 May, 2017 AltLd
thrutch 10 May, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Sven
with Sven
SR1970 10 May, 2017 AltLd
nutme 5 May, 2017 AltLd β Sunny morning climb. Very nice views. Parking is available on side of the road directly to path down. On way down it's possible to start from 3rd pitch - red paint on wall 'L'Arete' just before fixed ropes.
with Cata
Sunny morning climb. Very nice views. Parking is available on side of the road directly to path down. On way down it's possible to start from 3rd pitch - red paint on wall 'L'Arete' just before fixed ropes.
with Cata
tonevert 27 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S
with Paloma
with Paloma
Hidden 17 Apr, 2017 AltLd
Michael Bortoluzzi 17 Apr, 2017 Lead dog First Verdon multi pitch. Amazing route! Lead onsight all pitches bar the offwidth (couple of falls). Had problems finding route towards the end, missed a few bolts and belays, had a snapgate fall on us, dropped my belay plate, only had one bottle of water, but great day nonetheless! 1hr descent and 5hrs climbing. The climb felt fairly straightforward and accessible (P2 excluded...) being able to deal with things not going to plan seemed like a more important skill than being a really good climber.
with Maz Costa
First Verdon multi pitch. Amazing route! Lead onsight all pitches bar the offwidth (couple of falls). Had problems finding route towards the end, missed a few bolts and belays, had a snapgate fall on us, dropped my belay plate, only had one bottle of water, but great day nonetheless! 1hr descent and 5hrs climbing. The climb felt fairly straightforward and accessible (P2 excluded...) being able to deal with things not going to plan seemed like a more important skill than being a really good climber.
with Maz Costa
Abi Chard 15 Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S
BRoe 13 Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S
timhewison 21 Jul, 2016 2nd My first multi-pitch, guided by the very capable hands of Caroline from La Maison du Canyoning et l'Escalade in Castellane. Skipped first two pitches, so "only" an easy 5b/c max. Particularly memorable as Emily only realised she left her climbing shoes in the van after the 45 minute scramble down to the start. Luckily Caroline had the same shoes (model and size!) and kindly lent them to Emily and climbed in her approach shoes!
My first multi-pitch, guided by the very capable hands of Caroline from La Maison du Canyoning et l'Escalade in Castellane. Skipped first two pitches, so "only" an easy 5b/c max. Particularly memorable as Emily only realised she left her climbing shoes in the van after the 45 minute scramble down to the start. Luckily Caroline had the same shoes (model and size!) and kindly lent them to Emily and climbed in her approach shoes!
The Norris 20 Jun, 2016 AltLd First 2 pitches were a bit of an unpleasant grovel to be honest, but then some lovely exposed juggy climbing up the rib followed. Gem got a spot of heat exhaustion half way up and felt like she was going to feint! Not ideal. A fantastic sense of achievement for us. We'll chuffed. Oh and the 'humping the spine of a whale' move... Very fitting description!
with gembel
First 2 pitches were a bit of an unpleasant grovel to be honest, but then some lovely exposed juggy climbing up the rib followed. Gem got a spot of heat exhaustion half way up and felt like she was going to feint! Not ideal. A fantastic sense of achievement for us. We'll chuffed. Oh and the 'humping the spine of a whale' move... Very fitting description!
with gembel
Hidden 17 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S
seanhendo123 4 May, 2016 AltLd O/S Lead crux off width, E1ish, rest was a vs romp up through great scenery
with Lamb
Lead crux off width, E1ish, rest was a vs romp up through great scenery
with Lamb
Lamb 3 May, 2016 AltLd O/S Sean took offwidth crux which felt about HVS/E1 5b, the rest is a VS romp. Smashing route though in nice positions.
with Sean Henderson
Sean took offwidth crux which felt about HVS/E1 5b, the rest is a VS romp. Smashing route though in nice positions.
with Sean Henderson
Hidden ?May, 2016 AltLd
Hidden ?May, 2016 AltLd
ChristyCole 7 Apr, 2016 AltLd
Hidden ?Apr, 2016 AltLd O/S
Chrissy202 29 Mar, 2016 AltLd O/S Not first 2 pitches
with Gorg_D
Not first 2 pitches
with Gorg_D
Hidden 29 Mar, 2016 AltLd
Hidden 29 Mar, 2016 AltLd
Hidden 29 Sep, 2015 AltLd
NickyC 21 Sep, 2015 AltLd
with Zain Karim
with Zain Karim
Hidden 10 Aug, 2015 AltLd
monsteratt 10 Aug, 2015 AltLd
saaruli 13 May, 2015 AltLd Maija aloitti ja vedettin vuorotellen.
with Maija H.
Maija aloitti ja vedettin vuorotellen.
with Maija H.
Peter Reynolds ?May, 2015 -
with TomO
with TomO
Hidden 30 Apr, 2015 AltLd O/S
Chris Sansum 23 Apr, 2015 AltLd O/S I got the 6a+ pitch! Great fun.
with Robert Harris
I got the 6a+ pitch! Great fun.
with Robert Harris
robman ??, 2015 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??, 2015 -
robbo99 27 Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S All 9 pitches. Lots of traffic, should have started earlier. Make a good choice not to do the descent in flip-flops. Look for the red dots on the way down to avoid a rappel. Bit of rope access work after starting up what I think was the 6c route that crosses this one. Awesome day out
with Bebouze
All 9 pitches. Lots of traffic, should have started earlier. Make a good choice not to do the descent in flip-flops. Look for the red dots on the way down to avoid a rappel. Bit of rope access work after starting up what I think was the 6c route that crosses this one. Awesome day out
with Bebouze
Hidden 27 Sep, 2014 AltLd dog
jrobbings ?Sep, 2014 -
Hidden 9 Aug, 2014 -
Ken Applegate 9 Aug, 2014 AltLd Nice introduction to climbing in the Verdon.
with Steve
Nice introduction to climbing in the Verdon.
with Steve
Dino Dave 27 May, 2014 AltLd O/S
with Fin
with Fin
Hidden 8 Apr, 2014 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Apr, 2014 AltLd
jcw ??, 2014 -
arose 19 Sep, 2013 AltLd
HannahFrancis 19 Sep, 2013 AltLd
with arose
with arose
Adam Potter ?Sep, 2013 AltLd We did the full route.
with Ross Black
We did the full route.
with Ross Black
Patrick Hill 8 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S
oliver.ghill91 30 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S
Ri 29 Jun, 2013 AltLd
David Kay 25 Jun, 2013 AltLd O/S
Moritz L 25 Jun, 2013 AltLd O/S lead P3,4,5 (3c,5b,4c) P4 was great climbing, exposed + great moves. P5 steep and very juggy
with David Kay, pete
lead P3,4,5 (3c,5b,4c) P4 was great climbing, exposed + great moves. P5 steep and very juggy
with David Kay, pete
Hidden 29 May, 2013 AltLd O/S
dohart 7 May, 2013 2nd longest route i've ever done. just goes on and on. pretty scary situations !
with alan carne
longest route i've ever done. just goes on and on. pretty scary situations !
with alan carne
Hidden 27 Aug, 2012 -
MorganPreece 27 Aug, 2012 -
with Matt Smith, George Filming for HDrock films, spineless
with Matt Smith, George Filming for HDrock films, spineless
conorjclarke 14 Jun, 2012 AltLd O/S nice climb
with Neal Gupta
nice climb
with Neal Gupta
Hidden ?Jun, 2012 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?May, 2012 2nd
Laurence Cowton 25 Mar, 2012 AltLd O/S Really nice route. Long but can be climbed quickly.
with Vince
Really nice route. Long but can be climbed quickly.
with Vince
vix 20 Mar, 2012 - Only 5+ tick as misssed first two pitches. Lead 4+ pitch and top two pitches (5 and 5+) linked as couldnt find belay (for the second time this climb)
Only 5+ tick as misssed first two pitches. Lead 4+ pitch and top two pitches (5 and 5+) linked as couldnt find belay (for the second time this climb)
Hidden 20 Mar, 2012 -
Hidden ??, 2012 2nd
Hidden 12 Oct, 2011 AltLd O/S
jon_gill1 12 Oct, 2011 Lead dog great route, but had to much on my back to get the 6a+ bit clean,rest was quite easy and we did it in 7 pitches!
great route, but had to much on my back to get the 6a+ bit clean,rest was quite easy and we did it in 7 pitches!
Gareth 30 Sep, 2011 AltLd Great and varied climbing. Pitch 2 the crux (had to second).
Great and varied climbing. Pitch 2 the crux (had to second).
montymoo 30 Sep, 2011 AltLd started 3rd pitch up.
with christian
started 3rd pitch up.
with christian
andybenham 30 Sep, 2011 AltLd O/S Enjoyable, varied climb. Interesting approach. One hard pitch of polished off-width
with Gareth
Enjoyable, varied climb. Interesting approach. One hard pitch of polished off-width
with Gareth
georgeous 6 Sep, 2011 AltLd O/S accessed from pitch 3 (5+)
accessed from pitch 3 (5+)
Hidden 20 Jul, 2011 Lead
colkurtz 20 Jul, 2011 2nd
with Robb
with Robb
uphillnow 26 Jun, 2011 -
al99 30 May, 2011 AltLd
martinazando 30 May, 2011 AltLd O/S the descent is maybe more exciting than the climb! Only one pitch of 6a+
with al99
the descent is maybe more exciting than the climb! Only one pitch of 6a+
with al99
Hidden 20 May, 2011 AltLd O/S
Danjones 16 May, 2011 AltLd O/S Pulled on bolt at crux on second pitch - much harder than rest of route which was all fairly straight forward, fairly well bolted, but think we may have had trad gear too!
with Simon Cash
Pulled on bolt at crux on second pitch - much harder than rest of route which was all fairly straight forward, fairly well bolted, but think we may have had trad gear too!
with Simon Cash
stuart34 7 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S P 5 - 9
P 5 - 9
Saurus ?Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S Another spanking adventure - two hours to find the start of the route, the crux pitch (pitch 2) felt like I was humping the spine of a whale, then two thirds of the way up and an almight storm breaks with lightning immediately overhead - an overall awesome day!!
Another spanking adventure - two hours to find the start of the route, the crux pitch (pitch 2) felt like I was humping the spine of a whale, then two thirds of the way up and an almight storm breaks with lightning immediately overhead - an overall awesome day!!
Anthony Allsopp 19 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S Awesome climb and a nice way to end the week in Verdon. Shame about the rain. pitches 1~4 no problem, after that it was a struggle to find the bolts sometimes and also found that a couple of belay stations were missing / had only one bolt left. Bold in places but pretty cool. Excellent view.
with Sandy Holford
Awesome climb and a nice way to end the week in Verdon. Shame about the rain. pitches 1~4 no problem, after that it was a struggle to find the bolts sometimes and also found that a couple of belay stations were missing / had only one bolt left. Bold in places but pretty cool. Excellent view.
with Sandy Holford
Sandy Simpson 26 Sep, 2008 AltLd thunderstorm
thunderstorm
Wanderer100 ?Sep, 2008 2nd rpt Bolted route, lovely clean limestone. Climbed with local guide.
with Chas
Bolted route, lovely clean limestone. Climbed with local guide.
with Chas
ninjawil 25 Oct, 2007 Lead rpt
with Alex Lea
with Alex Lea
john1 15 Sep, 2005 AltLd O/S First muti pitch
with James
First muti pitch
with James
Hidden 6 May, 2003 -
dan gibson ?Sep, 1997 Lead O/S
timreynolds 15 Aug, 1995 AltLd
with Claire Donegan
with Claire Donegan
Duncan I ?Jun, 1991 AltLd Last half
with Mike Long
Last half
with Mike Long
Hidden ?Apr, 1990 AltLd
Martin Bennett 7 Aug, 1985 -
with MT
with MT
Nigel Coe ?Apr, 1982 AltLd
with John Walmsley
with John Walmsley
alpinist63 ??, 1981 Lead
Brian Wilderspin 15 Jul, 1980 Solo O/S with Andy
with Andy
mark-abz 14 Jul, 1980 AltLd
with ?
with ?
The Reaper 25 Jun, 1980 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??, 1980 AltLd
Hidden ?May, 1979 AltLd
duncan ?Apr, 1979 AltLd O/S Benighted!
with Bob the lob
Benighted!
with Bob the lob
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Voting
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 17
Votes cast 18
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Not Set