UKC

220m, 9 pitches.

Rockfax Description
1) 5c, 2) 6a+, 3) 3, 4) 5a, 5) 4a, 6) 5c, 7) 4c, 8) 5c, 9) 5a.
The classic of the buttress and the most popular route here by quite a margin. The crux wall/offwidth on the 2nd pitch is short-lived but quite taxing. It is possible to miss out the first two pitches by following a vague track (exposed) out to a belay by the arête about 70m above the base of the cliff. © Rockfax


ClimberDateStyle
tsyrett 16/Nov/17 AltLd O/S

Got lost on the walk down not paying attention and ended up abbing down a pretty loose gully from tat left in 3 trees (obviously not the first). I had the pleasure of getting stuck in to (literally) the crux pitch and another right hand variation offwidth on about pitch 6 to spice things up a bit. The other pitches were pretty cruisy and we just managed to stay in the sun as the shadow chased us up the route. We were the only people on it and all in all a pretty fun adventure but I don't think I'd climb it again. 1 hr Down 2.5 Up

kermit_uk 22/Sep/17 AltLd O/S

First route in Verdon in 15 years I think. Decent is fine though took 1:15hr due to taking very steady and going the wrong way twice. Did in 8 pitches tho still not sure which two we strung together though probably some of the top 3. Led odd numbered pitches. Cracking route, first two pitches will bring out the gritstone thrutcher in you!

Keith Swainson 20/Sep/17 AltLd O/S

Lead the even no. pitches from the low start.

Georgie25 20/Sep/17 AltLd

Did the full route right from the bottom, I led odd numbered pitches - in pitch 3 managed to wander off into something a lot harder before getting back on route! Great fun, a few tricky moves in first 2 pitches rest was fine.

Gbsicotte 19/Sep/17 2nd

2nd mulipitch in Verdon and we absolutely loved it! Skipped the first two pitches making the climb a bit shorter due to imminent rain. The views are breathtaking and the holds are good. It may be crowded in good weather days but absolutely worth it. The approach is quite dodgy though... make sure you're not rushing down too fast.

with Ned Western
Martin Haworth 10/Sep/17 AltLd O/S
m.powell02 04/Sep/17 AltLd O/S

Struggled massively leading the 6A+ pitch in the baking sun.. not my style!

Hidden 04/Sep/17 AltLd rpt
Hidden 04/Sep/17 AltLd O/S
mike fenwick 09/Aug/17 AltLd
with Jas Wood
cmars89 29/Jun/17 Lead O/S

Best pitch was the off width, 5c's were soft.

with Ryan Weber
Hidden 20/Jun/17 AltLd O/S
Laurence Mitchell 20/Jun/17 AltLd
Hidden 30/May/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/May/17 AltLd
thrutch 10/May/17 AltLd O/S
with Sven
SR1970 10/May/17 AltLd
nutme 05/May/17 AltLd β

Sunny morning climb. Very nice views. Parking is available on side of the road directly to path down. On way down it's possible to start from 3rd pitch - red paint on wall 'L'Arete' just before fixed ropes.

with Cata
tonevert 27/Apr/17 Lead O/S
with Paloma
Hidden 17/Apr/17 AltLd
Michael Bortoluzzi 17/Apr/17 Lead dog

First Verdon multi pitch. Amazing route! Lead onsight all pitches bar the offwidth (couple of falls). Had problems finding route towards the end, missed a few bolts and belays, had a snapgate fall on us, dropped my belay plate, only had one bottle of water, but great day nonetheless! 1hr descent and 5hrs climbing. The climb felt fairly straightforward and accessible (P2 excluded...) being able to deal with things not going to plan seemed like a more important skill than being a really good climber.

with Maz (WCC)
Abi Chard 15/Sep/16 AltLd O/S
with Ian
BRoe 13/Sep/16 AltLd O/S
timhewison 21/Jul/16 2nd

My first multi-pitch, guided by the very capable hands of Caroline from La Maison du Canyoning et l'Escalade in Castellane. Skipped first two pitches, so "only" an easy 5b/c max. Particularly memorable as Emily only realised she left her climbing shoes in the van after the 45 minute scramble down to the start. Luckily Caroline had the same shoes (model and size!) and kindly lent them to Emily and climbed in her approach shoes!

with Emily
The Norris 20/Jun/16 AltLd

First 2 pitches were a bit of an unpleasant grovel to be honest, but then some lovely exposed juggy climbing up the rib followed. Gem got a spot of heat exhaustion half way up and felt like she was going to feint! Not ideal. A fantastic sense of achievement for us. We'll chuffed. Oh and the 'humping the spine of a whale' move... Very fitting description!

with Gem
Hidden 17/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
seanhendo123 04/May/16 AltLd O/S

Lead crux off width, E1ish, rest was a vs romp up through great scenery

with Lamb
Lamb 03/May/16 AltLd O/S

Sean took offwidth crux which felt about HVS/E1 5b, the rest is a VS romp. Smashing route though in nice positions.

with Sean Henderson
Paula Ryan ?/May/16 AltLd
Hidden ?/May/16 AltLd
ChristyCole 07/Apr/16 AltLd
with Dan
Hidden ?/Apr/16 AltLd O/S
Chrissy202 29/Mar/16 AltLd O/S

Not first 2 pitches

with Georgia
Hidden 29/Mar/16 AltLd
Hidden 29/Sep/15 AltLd
NickyC 21/Sep/15 AltLd
with Zain Karim
Hidden 10/Aug/15 AltLd
monsteratt 10/Aug/15 AltLd
saaruli 13/May/15 AltLd

Maija aloitti ja vedettin vuorotellen.

with Maija H.
Peter Reynolds ?/May/15 -
Hidden 30/Apr/15 AltLd O/S
Chris Sansum 23/Apr/15 AltLd O/S

I got the 6a+ pitch! Great fun.

with Robert Harris
Hidden ??/2015 -
robbo99 27/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

All 9 pitches. Lots of traffic, should have started earlier. Make a good choice not to do the descent in flip-flops. Look for the red dots on the way down to avoid a rappel. Bit of rope access work after starting up what I think was the 6c route that crosses this one. Awesome day out

Hidden 27/Sep/14 AltLd dog
jrobbings ?/Sep/14 -
Ken Applegate 09/Aug/14 AltLd

Nice introduction to climbing in the Verdon.

with Steve
Dino Dave 27/May/14 AltLd O/S
with Fin
Hidden 08/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/14 AltLd
jcw ??/2014 -
arose 19/Sep/13 AltLd
Tightsgirl 19/Sep/13 AltLd
Adam Potter ?/Sep/13 AltLd

We did the full route.

with Ross Black
Patrick Hill 08/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
oliver.ghill91 30/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Ri 29/Jun/13 AltLd
David Kay 25/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
Moritz L 25/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

lead P3,4,5 (3c,5b,4c) P4 was great climbing, exposed + great moves. P5 steep and very juggy

with David Kirsfelds, pete
dohart 07/May/13 2nd

longest route i've ever done. just goes on and on. pretty scary situations !

with alan carne
Hidden 27/Aug/12 -
MorganPreece 27/Aug/12 -
with Matt Smith, George Filming for HDrock films, Andy Cummings
conorjclarke 14/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

nice climb

with Neal Gupta
Hidden ?/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/May/12 2nd
Laurence Cowton 25/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

Really nice route. Long but can be climbed quickly.

with Vince
vix 20/Mar/12 -

Only 5+ tick as misssed first two pitches. Lead 4+ pitch and top two pitches (5 and 5+) linked as couldnt find belay (for the second time this climb)

with Alex, chris
Hidden 20/Mar/12 -
Paula Ryan ??/2012 2nd
Hidden 12/Oct/11 AltLd O/S
jon_gill1 12/Oct/11 Lead dog

great route, but had to much on my back to get the 6a+ bit clean,rest was quite easy and we did it in 7 pitches!

Gareth 30/Sep/11 AltLd

Great and varied climbing. Pitch 2 the crux (had to second).

with Andrew
montymoo 30/Sep/11 AltLd

started 3rd pitch up.

with christian
andybenham 30/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

Enjoyable, varied climb. Interesting approach. One hard pitch of polished off-width

georgeous 06/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

accessed from pitch 3 (5+)

Hidden 20/Jul/11 Lead
colkurtz 20/Jul/11 2nd
with Robb
uphillnow 26/Jun/11 -
al99 30/May/11 AltLd
martinazando 30/May/11 AltLd O/S

the descent is maybe more exciting than the climb! Only one pitch of 6a+

Hidden 20/May/11 AltLd O/S
Danjones 16/May/11 AltLd O/S

Pulled on bolt at crux on second pitch - much harder than rest of route which was all fairly straight forward, fairly well bolted, but think we may have had trad gear too!

with Simon Cash
stuart34 07/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

P 5 - 9

Saurus ?/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Another spanking adventure - two hours to find the start of the route, the crux pitch (pitch 2) felt like I was humping the spine of a whale, then two thirds of the way up and an almight storm breaks with lightning immediately overhead - an overall awesome day!!

Anthony Allsopp 19/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Awesome climb and a nice way to end the week in Verdon. Shame about the rain. pitches 1~4 no problem, after that it was a struggle to find the bolts sometimes and also found that a couple of belay stations were missing / had only one bolt left. Bold in places but pretty cool. Excellent view.

with Sandy Holford
Sandy Simpson 26/Sep/08 AltLd

thunderstorm

Wanderer100 ?/Sep/08 2nd rpt

Bolted route, lovely clean limestone. Climbed with local guide.

with Chas
Hidden 25/Oct/07 Lead rpt
john1 15/Sep/05 AltLd O/S

First muti pitch

with James
Hidden 06/May/03 -
dan gibson ?/Sep/97 Lead O/S
timreynolds 15/Aug/95 AltLd
with Claire Donegan
Duncan I ?/Jun/91 AltLd

Last half

with Mike Long
Hidden ?/Apr/90 AltLd
Martin Bennett 07/Aug/85 -
with MT
Nigel Coe ?/Apr/82 AltLd
with John Walmsley
mark-abz 14/Jul/80 AltLd
with ?
The Reaper 25/Jun/80 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/1980 AltLd
Hidden ?/May/79 AltLd
duncan ?/Apr/79 AltLd O/S

Benighted!

with Bob
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Voting
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 12
Votes cast 13
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Not Set