320m, 12 pitches.

Rockfax Description
1) 5c, 2) 5c, 3) 5c, 4) 6a, 5) 6a, 6) 5c, 7) 6a, 8) 6a, 9) 5a,
10) 6a, 11) 6a, 12) 5c.
THE major classic, it should be on the itinerary of any serious climber who visits the Verdon. Its first ascent, by Joel Coqueugniot and François Guillot, in the autumn of 1968 started the ball rolling in a big way! The route is approached from the Couloir Sampson via the damp tunnels (20/25 mins) - an average team should allow about 5 hours for the ascent, though don't under estimate the effort of a strenuous 300m crack-climb done largely in the sun - benightments are more common than you might expect, as are 10-12hr ascents. The logistics of an ascent are left for individual teams to work out, though it is worth pointing out that the upper chimneys are a bit of a battle with a rucsack! A UK grade of HVS 5a for seasoned crack-climbers and E2 5b for wall-rats might feel appropriate. Over the years the climb has gradually acquired more and more fixed protection and the once fearsome upper chimneys have lost some their reputation. All the same, nuts and cams up to mid-size are reassuring.
We have left the grade at its traditional 6a but if you don't like cracks, run out of water and spend 10 hrs on it, the route may indeed be worth the 6b+ that some people suggest! © Rockfax

Ticklists: Parois-de-legende, 10 Multi-pitch Routes Worth Travelling For, The Big Easys, Verdon, 2019 all-rounder Psyche list.

willemsleeboom 25/Oct/18 AltLd O/S
with bas
tmawer 27/Sep/18 AltLd O/S

First pitch only yesterday as we realised that at the speed the team ahead was going we would be around 12 hours on the route and finishing.. If ever... In the dark, so we bailed. Turned out to be a good decision as they were rescued by Mischa after 16 hours on route. Back today to complete. Criminally undergraded at 6a. Awesome route but quite a battle. Went the wrong way up a steep crack, instead of the correct line further right at one point, and used 2pegs as footholds. A tiring 10 hour day out I'll remember for a long time!

BTphonehome 27/Sep/18 AltLd O/S

Holy shit! What a day, what a route. See MischaHY and tmawer entries for tales of Polish epics the previous day. Right decision to come back the next day to find the route free. A brilliant line with no mistaking where to go - apart from the missed fork right at pitch 8 leaving a fairly brutal trad crack for Tony to lead (pegs also used for feet). Relentlessly sustained with plenty of interest from top to bottom but found the toughest sections on the polished groove of P5, getting to the final bolt below the chains of P7 (which took me an age) and that horrendous squeeze section on P10 - which, along with the P8 diversion, have never seen 6a in their life! Was glad I seconded the pitches I did but that said, Tony felt exactly the same about the ones he followed! Battered and bruised but fully worth it. Great scenes.

with tmawer
CoraS 26/Sep/18 AltLd
MischaHY 26/Sep/18 AltLd O/S

Proper stuff. The vision of the original ascentionists was remarkable. Cora lead P2 and P4, I did the rest. Chimneys were harrowing! Started the day as a four which quickly dropped to a two after the other guys didn't fancy waiting around for the Polish team ahead of us who were moving at a stately pace to say the least. We politely asked to move past at the end of P3, and promptly forgot about them for the next few hours of desperate, heart pounding chimney wallowing. At least the polish means your tips don't get trashed, but a fall from high on P7 would be unthinkable and would definitely take you past the belay. Cora wriggled her way up with usual style minus a couple of explosive exists from chimney bridging that left me deeply thankful she hadn't got on the lead, and I scampered thankfully up the final slabs and built a trad anchor after somehow managing to miss every single bolt at the top. Cora tops at around 18:50 making for a 9hour ascent. Joyous dancing around ensues. Cut to the darkening sky and thoughts turn to the Polish guys of whom there is still no sign. We start to get a bit twitchy at the thought of benightment in those chimneys and decide to hang around a bit just in case. Cora heads off to get the van as we left it in the wrong car park and after a bit of thought I ab back down the last pitch to have a look for them as by now it's proper dark. After a bit of swinging around yelling I hear a shout back from the Polish guys who are stuck at the bottom of pitch 11 i.e. grim 6a death chimney and gather that they'd rather like a rope if possible please - luckily we had the 100m static in the van so Cora runs back up the hill armed with rope and ascenders, and I get the dubious pleasure of abbing back down into those chimneys in the dark and teaching a couple of very grateful Polish chaps how to jumar. After a few false starts (I only had one jumar and a microtraxion so we had to drop an ascender back down on each pitch) we all climbed back up the rope with minimal faff and got back to the van at midnight. Drove the two back to their car in Couloir Samson and collapsed in the van, knackered. What a day!

with CoraS
Hidden 04/Sep/18 2nd O/S
james.slater 04/Sep/18 Lead O/S

What a day, 9.5 hours on lead! Had to dig pretty deep on some of those chimney pitches! Some brilliant crack pitches, and more than one exposed belay, before the real grunt work begins! I ran out a lot of pitches, only clipping the bolts, which was pretty bold in places, but meant we climbed quickly. No pitch is harder than E1 ish (?) but by the top it definitely feels like youve been climbing E2! One of the most strenuous days out climbing Ive ever had.

Paul ablitt 05/Apr/18 AltLd rpt
with Alex, Lucy, Rushy
Hidden 04/Apr/18 AltLd rpt
FelixJT 27/Mar/18 AltLd
WilliamRupp 27/Mar/18 AltLd

good birthday

with FelixJT
markvaughan ?/Mar/18 AltLd O/S

Mega route, perhaps the best ever... Bring a small trad rack and 12 draws. Run out on the easier ground, but the hard moves generally have adequate gear options. Took us 9 hours including a leisurely lunch stop. Beware of the VERY long walk back to the bottom carpark... Talking 10km+... Get a mate or taxi to pick you up from the road near the top out unless you want a hefty warm down

Hidden 03/Nov/17 AltLd O/S
MrRiley 24/Oct/17 AltLd dnf

Too cold (-2 at the carpark), too slow, too hard, too crap. We were not worthy. Need to be solid at E2 multipitch i reckon. Trip report: http://www.mistymountainhop.net/2017/10/an-exposed-spanking-in-the-gorge-du-verdon/

Little AndyH 24/Oct/17 AltLd dnf
with MrRiley
KKilroy ?/Oct/17 Lead G/U


with Lee, claire
pie_eater_pete 20/Sep/17 AltLd O/S
JulesV 19/Sep/17 AltLd O/S

In approach shoes. Linked p2-3 and 11-12 with 60m ropes. Regretted choice of footwear on many occasions. Awesome day out!

with Will Boxen, Botha
Martin Haworth 11/Sep/17 Lead rpt

Fantastic route, quite tough and very sustained. 6.5 hours, felt like about 6 or 7 pitches were worth E1 to me, maybe I'm getting old. 1.5 hour walk back to the car.

Brannock 11/Sep/17 AltLd O/S

Great route, never easy but never desperate.

AmyG 10/Sep/17 AltLd

Slightly late getting off this. Only one head torch so climbed the last two pitches in pretty dim lighting

with noskki
noskki 10/Sep/17 AltLd O/S

It's long... or maybe: it just takes a long time. Starting at 1pm is prob a bit late with one head torch... crawled out the last pitch and a half in the dark... Good test piece for all variants of crack to chimney. A bit of fiddling with gear is helpful (and time consuming).

with AmyG
tonevert 05/Sep/17 Lead dog
with Paloma
billb ?/Sep/17 AltLd O/S

Led even pitches. Great day out. About 9 hours with 3 of us. More like E1 / E2 than 6a

with Theo , JulesV
Graham Atkins ?/Sep/17 Lead O/S

In 8-9 pitches. Totally grand day out. Never too hard but the chimneys deserve their reputation- proper old skool!

Hidden 07/Aug/17 AltLd
Hidden 14/Jul/17 AltLd O/S
seanhendo123 14/Jul/17 AltLd O/S

In 9 pitches, amazing route but way too hot in July! Very sustained physical climb

Maz J 10/Jul/17 AltLd

led pitch 3, 5, 8, 9. Seriously underestimated the heat and amount of water needed. Rock was really greasy - not great for the run out chimney pitches (left these to Si). Finished in the dark with head torches!

with Simon Jones
Matthew Murison ?/Jun/17 Lead O/S
Adam Coles 17/May/17 Lead O/S
with Clare
thrutch 15/May/17 AltLd O/S
with Sven
SR1970 15/May/17 AltLd
Julesthe1st 03/May/17 AltLd

From the moment we defrosted the car at 530am to the moment we topped out, La Demande lived up to the hype. Griffin Vulchures, Base jumpers, thunder.....it was all there. Used quite a bit of aid in the chimneys unfortunately but the sound of thunder scared us to death and we just wanted to get up the thing. Quality day. Will be back for a clean ascent (but might just go for Via Ula)

with Robin
Hidden ?/May/17 AltLd
tonevert 30/Apr/17 Lead dnf
with Paloma
Hidden 16/Apr/17 Lead dnf
ferdia 08/Apr/17 AltLd O/S

great fun

Andy Moles 08/Apr/17 AltLd

Enjoyed this a lot, so brilliantly sustained. I imagine the polish would make it hellish in hot weather.

with ferdia
Hidden ??/2017 AltLd O/S
Sophie Nunn 07/Nov/16 Lead O/S
Lizlet13 07/Nov/16 2nd
Angussmart 05/Oct/16 Lead dog

bailed on 2nd last pitch, great climb (big fall)

with Sam
robertmichaellovell 05/Aug/16 AltLd

Quality route, was quite warm. Felt like hard work for 6a!

with tomdude
tomdude 05/Aug/16 AltLd

Too hot this month. Thankfully cooled down slightly for our last day here. Pretty tiring route, brilliant climbing though. Upper chimneys are cool! Anyone who find this to be HVS 5a overall is a far, far better climber than me. Took us about 8.5 hrs.

SteveSBlake 30/Jul/16 Lead rpt

My sixth time up the route, this time with my son Tim. An early start beat most of the heat, we took a very light rack and an 80m skinny rope. Tim led the first, Ilinked the second and third. Tim then led four. I linked five and six. Tim bonked at the entry to the groove on seven so I took over while he recovered, I led seven and eight as singles, then linked the next two to the belay below the V Groove. From there I did one long pitch to the top. Shady as ever in the chimneys, but not much updraft..... we got to the top with a little water left. About 5 1/2 hours. I always find the hardest bits are the entry into the V groove on pitch 7 and the narrow chimney just below the stance of pitch 11. The wide grade range is very justified. It remains fabulous and it was a great day out.

with Tim Blake
K Mckay 28/Jul/16 AltLd

Attempt no. 2: fantastic start to finish! Challenging, tiring but some of the best continuous climbing at this grade I have ever done. I'm now the third family member to complete the route. Led odd pitches.

with gav
gav 28/Jul/16 AltLd RP

2nd attempt after bailing 2 days previously. Walked in along Sentier Martel to start route at 6am in an effort to escape the sun. I lead even numbered pitches, and am generally happy to have done so! Early pitches no pushover, pulling the jams out early on, with a step undercut flake crack on p3 particularly imposing. On pitch 7, there is a belay on the right which draws you across. if you go straight up and right from this, the climbing gets steep and hard. this is a different line. ignore this belay and carry up the (hard) finger crack on the left of this first belay to the actual belay on la Demande. Got stuck in the chimney on pitch 10, which was pretty scary. Bit uncertain on correct line for pitch 12, but just followed some polish and found a way to the top. 11h 15mins bottom to top. Walked nearly back to La Palud before bagging a hitch back to the car. Another 30 degree plus day. Nuts 1-10 plus friends 1.5-3.5/4 (or equivalent dragons purple through blue) make this route generally very well protected along with the bolts.

with K Mckay
K Mckay 26/Jul/16 AltLd dnf

: ( ...don't abseil in (takes too much time) walk instead, start early to avoid the sun or better still attempt it at a cooler time of year, prepare to battle it out with some pretty continuous climbing, avoid afternoon thunderstorms, go fast and make sure you remember your psyche!

with gav
gav 26/Jul/16 AltLd dnf

Lead pitch 2,4,6. Katie lead the odds up to 7 then we bailed. Abbed in from dalles grises, which was a faff with the odd stuck rope and awkward chossy mud through the jardin. Despite a 5am departure from the car park, we didn't start the route until 9am. It was way too hot, we didn't rest the day before, and finally we dropped our nuts from the top of pitch 7. We decided to ab down and walk out. Just as we arrived at the car park and arranged a hitch, a massive thunderstorm started. Lucky.

with K Mckay
Normunds 15/Jul/16 AltLd
Patrick Hill 01/Jun/16 Lead rpt
with Rach
Rachael Ellis 01/Jun/16 AltLd G/U
with patrick hill
Freshprintce 01/Mar/16 AltLd
Joshua Neve ?/Mar/16 AltLd β

Absolutely beast! Great mixed route with some scary chimneys. Can't wait to go back and do it by daylight! (Got to pitch 7 when night fell, finished with headlamps, a bit scary but OK once acclimatised!) What a buzz at the finish! Take at least a litre each even out of summer. Wouldn't even try it between May and September. Would need 3 litres each.

with Will Smith
stevorobs3 17/Oct/15 2nd O/S
with ian d f
ian d f 17/Oct/15 Lead O/S

Were first on the route around 9:30 am and got to the top about 3, I think. Hitched back down to get car.

Paul Figg 07/Oct/15 AltLd
with Andy Brown, Malcolm Bass
Malcolm Bass ?/Oct/15 AltLd
with Paul Figg, Andy Brown
markfairbank 03/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Certainly an experience! 10hrs to climb.... Polished, runout, hard, superb.... Parked at couloir Samson and walked in which meant getting the car back was a chew involving a big walk! Eventually got back to it about 23:00hrs. Couldn't carry enough water really so was parched at the top. Defo don't under estimate the route, certainly more trad like. Dropped my shades on P10 in case anyone finds them at the bottom

Anne Fairbank 03/Aug/15 2nd
Hidden 18/May/15 AltLd
saaruli 18/May/15 AltLd

Erik aloitti, liidattiin vuorotellen. Minä tipuin tokavikassa kp:ssa, mutta selvisin ylös asti. Vuorot vaihtuivat jossakin välissä, kun Erik ei halunnut kiivetä sitä chimney-kohtaa.

with erik..
orcnys 03/May/15 AltLd RP

Done in 11 hours and finished just after dusk. Tried in 2014 but starting at 11am proved to be way too late and abseiled after 6th pitch. It is an adventure. Definitely carry a rack with some larger nuts/cams.

with voy_all_5c
Hidden 02/May/15 AltLd O/S
tatz45 02/May/15 AltLd O/S
with bionik
Chris Sansum 21/Apr/15 AltLd dnf

Started far too late after a late departure from camp site. 'Clean onsight' as far as we got (end of pitch 8), but partner was not happy to continue up the last 4 pitches at risk of benightment, so we abseiled down. Will be back!

with Robert
dswansonlow 02/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with soph
soph 02/Apr/15 AltLd O/S

A grand day out

doctorgranite ??/2015 AltLd
etrillaud 25/Oct/14 AltLd O/S

Took 10h. Really good journey up this amazing route. A trad rack (C4 0.5 to 2 + medium size nuts + slings) was put to good use.

stuart34 18/Oct/14 AltLd rpt

again, great

with Mick
Fragmod 05/Sep/14 Lead
James Oakes 04/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
with Fragmod
jacobjacob 26/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Finished off after bailing in a thunderstorm last year, a masterclass in chimneying!

shafiq lalloo 26/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

what a beauty! walked in from Samson, climbed in 7hrs so much fun!! with some scary 6a pt's

Bristoldave 23/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Bit of a beast.

with Caroline
Hidden 22/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
Laurine 10/Jul/14 2nd
Hidden 04/Jun/14 AltLd
kelliroberts3 23/May/14 AltLd
Graham Baxter 16/May/14 AltLd O/S

Just over 5 hours.

with Alan Carne
walts4 10/May/14 -

Classic, must do, but the chimneys could be brutal for the gym climber.

Pete Rigby ?/May/14 AltLd
with Kelli Roberts
sarpedon 18/Apr/14 AltLd O/S

Forgot the trad rack so did it with a dozen quickdraws, which proved to be too many. It's more of a trad route with a few bolts in between so bring a rack. Amazing crack and chimney.

with Benjamin Corbey
BenL 16/Apr/14 AltLd O/S

An excellent first introduction to multipitch climbing

with rjf106
rjf106 16/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
with BenL
burto 11/Apr/14 AltLd
with clare, malc
stuart34 11/Apr/14 AltLd β

even better 2nd time round

Hidden 11/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
jon_gill1 08/Apr/14 AltLd O/S

I led pitches 1,3,5,7,9 and 11 and Chris led 2,4,6,8,10,12 and 13. What a route!!!! It took us a total of 12 hours to climb the route which is nothing like a sport route!Both Chris and I climbed plenty of E1s and E2s and hard sport last year up to 7a onsight and this route took all we had! its a mental and physical challenge to get up the thing!DON'T UNDERESTIMATE IT! It started to rain when i reached the top of pitch 5 which we both think was the crux and i was gutted thinking we will have to lower off! Instead we decided to push on and till rain stopped play.....it didnt and we fought our way up the wickedly exposed and poorly protected in places chimneys!As I made my way up pitch 7 and reached the first chimney section it rained for 30 minutes but didn't effect the route which was very fortunate. Chris got his sling stuck around the tree higher up and was forced to lie down on it to release his sling from underneath it! We were both drained of body and mind at the top. Mission accomplished!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

with chris Lyness
RKirke ?/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
with owb106
arose 20/Sep/13 Lead

Brilliant. Long day. Abseiled in from dalle grise

HannahFrancis 20/Sep/13 2nd

Brilliant but hard. Very hard. Abseiled in from dalles grises. Managed not to take rucksacks and was very glad for that but a little dehydrated. Well worth doing as long as you are aware that verdon 6a is hard...

with arose
Adam Potter ?/Sep/13 AltLd

Second time climbing this. Real adventure. Partner really struggled and I had to lead all the 6A pitches and chimneys at the top. Finished the last couple of pitches in the dark with head torches. Full route took a total of 13 hours but ran out of water after 5hrs. 8hrs, no water, 30 degrees, completely dehydrated. Fun

with Ross Black
Patrick Hill 09/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
oliver.ghill91 09/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Quality route. Took two competent 7a climbers 7.30 hours. Make sure you leave enough time

jasewilson ?/Jul/13 -
Ri 25/Jun/13 Lead O/S


Helen Gibson 17/Jun/13 Lead O/S

led pitch 1 and 3-7 then abbed off as getting late.. down to pitch 6 then walk right to pinnacle, abbed down short slope and traversed along cliff side another ab into the Jardin .. walk through forest...then found 3 or 4 straight forward abs to valley floor. check out the local colour guide book. Did the route 12 years ago but a shame not to finish it again.

with Chris Vernon
Hidden 31/May/13 AltLd O/S
Murilo Lessa 04/May/13 AltLd dog

Demanding.. great pitches and exposure. Done but far away from being really proud really.. not great style. Will have to go back and do it as it should be done :-)

with Pawel Zdziarski
pawelx ?/May/13 Lead dog
Michael Allday 16/Apr/13 AltLd

amazing climb shame about the polish, got stuck in the chimney for like half an hour very stressful.

Bruce Houston ?/Apr/13 AltLd

Awesome climb, started a bit late, so was getting nervous, especially when mike got stuck in the chimmney phahaha! great adventure though, 6a sport climber would probs die on it. finished with only 30 mins of daylight left, both pretty knackered.

John Carney ?/Mar/13 -
with Adam George
Tom Seccombe 25/Oct/12 Lead dnf

First 5 pitches, Started late (1 o'clock) and leading with rucksack on made it slow got back beforeb dark.

with Harvey
Martin Haworth 19/Sep/12 AltLd dnf
Andrew Sloan 19/Sep/12 AltLd dnf

Complete sandbag at 6a.6a pitches ranged in difficulty from 6a+ to 6b+. Bailed out after 10 pitches. Abseiled down in the dark.....a nightmare.Don't attempt this unless you are a solid E2 climber and make sure you start earlier than we did at 11.20am!!

Hidden 17/Jun/12 AltLd
conorjclarke 16/Jun/12 AltLd

what an adventure. started early and still got benighted and slept at the top. onsighted 10 of the 12 pitches ... french freed the other two out of tiredness/fear, but no falls. those top chimneys are scary!

with Neal Gupta
Cheshire Dave 07/Jun/12 AltLd

Started 12:30 to get maximum shade, finished 8 hours later rather than 7 mainly due to wobbling by yours truly on pitch 2 (nasty move off belay with no gear until I jetisoned 2 litres of water and butties on Chris) and pitch 6 where very spaced bolts go straight up otherwise unprotected offwidth - OR... you go right instead, up an insecure-feeling finger crack/layback! Great route though and found exit chimneys interesting (ahem) - I back and footed to the max, (not too bad I thought) and Chris bridged bravely up to the very welcome tree. Found most bolts with tat hanging on them low down on route where jams were required - not a favourite technique round these parts perhaps? Unnerved by thunder sounds all day despite blue sky - probably the army trying to freak us out even more!

with Chris
kiks 04/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
davidgent ?/Jun/12 -
with Kilian
Hidden ?/Jun/12 -
Hidden ?/May/12 2nd
Hidden 11/Apr/12 2nd
Laurence Cowton 21/Mar/12 AltLd dog

Lead pitch 2 and 4. Confused pitch numbers so fell off 6a pitch twice and lost all psyche by the 5th pitch! Still a long way to the top and the chimney pitches at the top a nightmare with bags. Finished as it got dark followed by an hour or so shivering in a lay by while Vince and Drew got lost looking for the car. Ended with a 7 mile walk out. Great day out!

with Ed
Hidden 21/Mar/12 AltLd β
Paula Ryan ??/2012 2nd
Hidden ??/2012 -
Gareth 01/Oct/11 AltLd dnf

Polish not too bad low down. Pitches are shorter than other routes we did in the gorge, but only got to p3 - see below 'stupidity' comment ;-)

andybenham 01/Oct/11 AltLd dnf

Managed 3 pitches before I committed the ultimate stupidity and dropped my belay plate. Retreated. Tunnels ARE accessible in an emergency!

with Gareth
michaelja ?/Oct/11 AltLd
HeatherF 06/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

Very nice, ut very long and very very hot!

with Jonny Baker
mic_b 11/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with heidi m
Hidden 10/Aug/11 2nd O/S
dprctr ?/Aug/11 AltLd dog

Quite traumatic but what an experience. Just made it to the top before a huge thunderstorm. We could hear but not see what was coming towards us!

centurion05 ?/Jul/11 -
with lee wales
elCapitano 01/Jun/11 2nd dnf

Started early doors but with thunder rolling. Optimistically went for it anyway. Courty got to first belay and I was almost there when the heavens opened and we had to bail.

Danjones 21/May/11 AltLd dnf

Only got to pitch 6, then mate fell and broke both ankles on pitch 7! So had to get rescued by the Pompiers! Good climbing, but quite hard (sustained HVS/E1+), hot and polished. Spaced bolts, but gear inbetween. Unfinished business!

with Ollie H
Danjones 18/May/11 Lead dnf

Abbed off second pitch as partner not feeling the love for the route! Abbed 6 pitches down the crag to get to the bottom, prob easier to walk in!

with Simon Cash
stuart34 08/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

P 1 - 4, 10 - 12

whiting.jp ?/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

The biggest (all senses) of my climbing career so far... Huge route, full on lead pitches, overheating, hailstones, accidentally jettisoned water bottle. Biggest of all was the thunderstorm, incredibly loud and incredibly close, watched lightning explode rocks ~50 meters to our left. Still finished it, never have I been so knackered. 5 star route!

with barra
metal arms 06/Oct/10 AltLd O/S
tigertim ?/Oct/10 AltLd
Hawkscry ?/Oct/10 AltLd


Dave Reeve ?/Oct/10 AltLd dnf

Ran out of light 3/4 way up so desided to ab off and walk out, a story in itself !

tom.ireson 24/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

Led all but two early pitches. Incredible climb, easily in my top routes of all time! Climbed with some very long run-outs from the beginning to get into the spirit of the climb and this seemed to be a good move as the chimney sections in particular can leave you feeling very far from protection on lead! First and fourth pitches are the main culprits for polished holds, the rest is still in pretty good condition. Parked at Sentier Martel car park (park in the layby, NOT by the wall) and walked in about 8.30ish, topped out and hitched back by around 6pm. Hot day, but you get a pretty decent amount of shade on the route. We got through 5 litres of water between us, the group behind only brought a litre! Highly recommended route, an amazing way to see the Verdon Gorge.

with Paul Jones
Hidden 09/Jun/10 AltLd
elcapitainkev 09/Jun/10 AltLd
with Greg M
Greg M 09/Jun/10 AltLd
willworkforfoodjnr 06/Mar/10 AltLd dnf

Grubes took a nasty fall and didn't feel up to continuing. Gutted...

with grubes
grubes 06/Mar/10 AltLd dnf

after taking a fall on second pitch psyche gone back off for another time

tom.ireson 06/Jan/10 AltLd
Paul D Jones ??/2010 AltLd

Only lead 2 pitches, both at the beginning. Long varied climb with some "gentlemens" climbing up the chimney.

Jake Shaw ?/Sep/09 -

Wicked route. All a bit old school!

with Dan
Lou Kennedy 12/Aug/09 AltLd
Seb31 ?/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
with seb
Kyuzo 02/May/09 -
with Juha Kaupilla
Hidden 23/Apr/09 AltLd
Paul ablitt 10/Apr/09 Lead O/S

4.5 hours

Adam Potter ??/2009 AltLd O/S
with Louise Kennedy
Seb31 ?/Sep/08 AltLd
Hidden ?/Aug/08 Lead dnf
Hidden ?/May/08 2nd dog
Julian Mowbray 30/Apr/08 AltLd O/S
with Tom
chiverstom 01/Apr/08 Lead O/S
with Dave Turner
Hidden 10/Nov/07 2nd
markalmack ?/Oct/07 Lead O/S

felt hard. Also the guide book saying it's fully bolted made it a bit more exciting!

with jacqui savage
jonnyboy 07/Sep/07 Lead O/S

lead all but one 5+ pitch.

with tomB
tomB 06/Sep/07 -
Stuart Johnston ?/Jun/07 -

Simply brilliant

Hidden ??/2007 -
dave o 22/Oct/06 AltLd
with Jon Yearsley
Jus ?/Oct/06 Lead

Lead all pitches. Proposed to my now wife on the top!

Hidden 23/Sep/06 AltLd O/S
K1 ??/2006 -
Hidden ?/Sep/05 AltLd
Hidden ??/2003 AltLd
Neil Ireson ?/Sep/02 AltLd
with Pete M
WB ?/Apr/01 AltLd O/S

got my helmet stuck on the chimney pitch - not very funny at the time

with GuyM
GuyM ?/Apr/01 AltLd
with WB
Les Ross ?/Jul/00 AltLd
with David Millar
migs493 10/Sep/98 AltLd O/S

Lead most of the route. Absolutely brilliant climbing although the bottom four pitches were very polished.

Just Another Dave ?/Jun/98 Lead O/S

Led every pitch with no trad gear at all. Some pitches had only two bolts in their entire lengths. I'd never led harder than 6a /E1 at the time, and thought it ok for the grade, but my second had only been taken up VS before, yet never came off and showed me up for enthusiasm and energy. Legend, Ollie. 10 hours though. What a milestone.

with Ollie Cule
dan gibson ?/Sep/97 AltLd O/S
Daniel Wrightson ?/Mar/96 Lead O/S

Topped out in the dark, 10k walk back to the car

with Olivia Horner
timreynolds 16/Aug/95 TR

Top pitch only

Mozer ?/Sep/94 AltLd O/S

6.5 hours

Hidden ?/May/92 Lead O/S
Nick Wallis ??/1992 AltLd O/S
with Andy Richardson
Hidden ?/Jun/91 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/90 AltLd
Hidden 10/Aug/89 Lead
mark mcgowan01 ??/1989 -
Martin Haworth ?/Sep/86 AltLd
with Dave Snowden
scree ?/Aug/86 -

Near death experience with a falling belay ledge

with Adi the dentist
andy gittins ??/1986 -
Martin Bennett 11/Aug/85 -

Happy 40th to me. And it was. Led it all. What a climb!!! No bolts then and the one peg on the bomb bay chimney pitch level with your second - detour to clip it before starting the pitch.

with MT
uphillnow 26/Jun/85 AltLd O/S

Led almost all of the route and didnt have any info on it. Brian, a watersport enthusiast at the time, decided he wanted to try a lead - the next pitch happened to be the chimney pitch which at the time had only an occasional piton for protection.He huffed and puffed a bit but did all right on this, one of his early leads.Good effort. Bivy at base with my wife and children made it a great outing for us al.l

with Brian barker
Gerard DANTEC ?/Apr/85 Lead
with Denis LEROY
Andy Nicholson ?/Apr/85 AltLd
with Phil Robins
Robmwatt ??/1985 Lead
johno072 ??/1985 Lead
valuks1 09/Jul/84 AltLd

An absolute classic and still the longest route to date for me!

Nigel Coe ?/Apr/84 AltLd
with Pete Oxley
Hidden 20/Mar/84 2nd
teebee1805 06/Sep/83 AltLd O/S

7.5hrs car to car. very hot need more water.

with CJ
Mike Owen 23/Aug/83 Lead O/S


with Elaine Owen
Nigel Bond 09/May/83 AltLd
with Charlie Leverton
Hidden 21/Aug/82 Lead
Nic Robinson 27/Jul/82 AltLd O/S
with Irish George
TonyF 01/Jul/82 Lead O/S
with Anthony
Steve Clegg 01/Jun/82 AltLd

Did it in 8 pitches with 50m ropes. Some simul-climbing! Took 3 hours - topped out at 09:00. Walked back to the car at Couloir Sampson. Bob and Dave were quicker than us on ULA!

with Brian W
Brian Wilderspin ?/May/82 AltLd O/S

In 3 hours

Falko ??/1982 Lead

Colin took his shoes off on a ledge half way up the route. Mistake! The day had become so warm that he had great difficulty replacing the shoes on heat-swolen feet. I've got a great slide (somewhere) of Colin following with a daysac dangling on a long from his harness as he briged up a corner with the river waaaay below. Happy days!

with Colin Armstrong
alpinist63 ?/Aug/81 -
keefe ?/Aug/81 -
Hidden ??/1981 Lead
Mark Kemball ?/Sep/80 AltLd
Hidden 31/Aug/80 AltLd
The Reaper 12/Jul/80 AltLd O/S
duncan ?/Apr/80 AltLd O/S
with Bob
Hidden ??/1980 AltLd
Hidden ?/Aug/78 Lead O/S
Bob Windsor ?/Jul/78 Lead


with Roy Townsend
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Votes cast 37
Votes cast 33
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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Flashed (β)
Ground Up
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