UKC

SMC Description
90m. This route follows the main diagonal fault in its middle section, then takes a continuation crack which passes the right end of the big central roof system. If icy, VI,6 may be a better grade. The start is made left of the main diagonal fault and is hard (but optional) without ice or a good build-up.
Start left of the main diagonal fault and close to the right of No Blue Skies. Either climb direct to a big corner 10m up, which is hard without ice or a build-up, or come in from the right across slabs to gain the corner. Exit from the corner over a bulge and traverse left round an arete onto broken ground leading to the main diagonal fault. Take the obvious line leading left to the top right corner of a large bay. Climb the overhanging groove above, then continue up a crack-line passing a roof to the top. © SMC

Ticklists: 20 Scottish Routes for a Nuclear Winter.


ClimberDateStyle
JendeHoxar 10/Feb 2nd
with Flavio
Flavio 10/Feb Lead O/S

An attractive line from the ground and a nice yellow line in the book too so got on it. P1 and p2 really good and quick in ok weather. P3 was desperate, took ages while being sandblasted sideways but found an amazing axe knee bar. Really hard for IV 6 I thought... Topped out exhausted with full body cramps. Only back at the van I noticed I did the wrong route, it definitely wasn't The Message, that's the nice RED line, but lead my 1st V 7 on my 1st winter season.. shiit, still don't know what I'm doing...

Nick Clement 03/Jan AltLd O/S
with Malcolm Bass
Malcolm Bass 03/Jan AltLd rpt

No ice on direct start. No build up. Failed to find traverse in across slabs from the right, but instead climbed the crack on the right at about tech 7 until it was easy to step left into the original corner. From there stepped straight round the left arête, then climbed left side of arête until start of ramp leading up and left. This variation meant we unintentionally avoided climbing up any of the original P1 corner!

with Nick Clement
Misha 10/Dec/17 AltLd O/S

Sunday route, 8 hour round trip including 5 hours for the route which was a bit longer than expected. Led P1 which took me a while as it was pretty tenuous in places and some of the gear was fiddly. I started up an obvious crack/groove line a few metres right of the big right facing corner. Thought I could traverse over across the slab after a few metres but it was easier and safer to carry on up the crack/groove until some easy ground and then move left and up into the finishing corner which led to the belay stance. The finishing corner was good fun and not too hard. That made for a sensible first pitch but not sure if it's the right line. Mark led the easy rising travers on P2 and the top pitch, which was really good (didn't find the steep corner particularly hard, at least not on second!). Proper conditions - rimed up and first pitch pretty verglassed as well.

mattc 27/Nov/17 Lead dnf

Ended up on this accidentally to hard fell off.

with mdjb
Hidden 25/Nov/17 AltLd O/S
mdjb 25/Nov/17 2nd dnf
Hidden 25/Nov/17 AltLd O/S
Martin McKenna - UKC 24/Nov/17 AltLd O/S

Brutal day, was being blown over just belaying at the top of the crag. V 7 according to the guide and no pushover at that grade I thought. 2 or 3 stars.

Gordon Lacey 24/Nov/17 AltLd
Robin Clothier 11/Nov/17 AltLd rpt
with Gordon Lacey
Gordon Lacey 11/Nov/17 AltLd
with Robin
Hidden 26/Feb/17 -
Steve Perry 11/Feb/17 Lead O/S

We started up a right hand crack-line through a small bulge/shallow roof which was hard tech 7 in parts (new variation start perhaps and more natural straight line), and then joined the route proper at the P1 groove, which was good. P2 was straight forward but buried, and P3 is quality but VI,7 all day long and felt tough in buried conditions. Took so much clearing it was a post sunset finish. Great route

with Sophie Grace Chappell
Rhys Macallister 23/Feb/16 AltLd

initially we started up just left of where we supposed to start, it was scary slab and poorly protected. poor Jack!! after that we headed up the correct 1st pitch. This was for me, technically really thoughtful climbing, i had to dig deep, it was thin, and plenty of cleearing needed. the finishing corner of the 1st pitch was really nicely iced up and involved cool 3 dimensional corner climbing. The top pitch was way out there for me, so much snow on it although once cleared it was well protected, it took me a while due to the snow and intensity of it. it was a battle which i did not lose! upon reflection, i loved every minute of what the routeoffered me. it was a stepping stone for me, my third week here, i learnt so much!! i finished in the dark. exceptional route!! jum on it!

with jack doyle
Hidden 23/Feb/16 AltLd
hamish2016 08/Feb/16 Lead
with Ollie Ross
OliverRoss 08/Feb/16 2nd
with Hamish Dunn
plain kitten ??/2015 -
alexm198 13/Dec/14 AltLd O/S

In two pitches, lead P1. The left facing crux corner is trickier than it appears, definitely more technical than the message, fantastic climbing. Easily three stars for me.

with Ross
Kinge 11/Jan/14 2nd dnf

Alex lead first pitch, before getting stuck behind traffic. Due to decreasing light we abbed off.

alexm198 11/Jan/14 Lead dnf

Thought we were on The Message, got to the crux corner, got stuck behind group in front, the leader of which had taken a big fall, and was consequently bailing off onto easier terrain out right. Getting dark by the time seconds were at the stance so we abbed off. Crux looked dicey!

Matt Harle 11/Jan/14 2nd

Rapped off after P2 in the dark

Hidden ??/2014 -
freudy_love 29/Dec/13 Lead O/S
with Squirrel
Hidden 24/Nov/13 AltLd
Hidden 29/Dec/11 AltLd
Hidden 29/Dec/11 AltLd
Hidden 19/Dec/11 AltLd
akhughes 04/Dec/11 Lead O/S

Covered in verglass. Really bold in places as a result of ice. Nice route though.

Hidden ?/Dec/11 2nd β
Hidden ??/2010 AltLd
Hidden ??/2009 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jan/08 AltLd O/S
dave_tomlin ?/Feb/07 2nd dnf

people moving slowly ahead so went 'off route' and made it up as we went along

with Tom Evans
Hidden ?/Mar/06 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Feb/06 2nd
andyinglis ??/2006 AltLd dog

Almost sick with hot aches after 1st pitch, then went up a blind alley on P2 and took at 10/15 footer onto belayer!

with steve
The Jazz Butcher ??/2006 Lead O/S
Dave Kerr 02/Jan/03 Lead

Did anyone else find this brick? Or was it something to do with the date I did it on?

with Iain Sharpe
Hidden ?/Feb/97 AltLd
frost ?/Feb/95 AltLd
with J Turner
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Voting
High VI
Mid VI
Low VI
High V
Mid V
Low V
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
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High 8
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High 6
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
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