150m, 8 pitches.

Rockfax Description
1) 5c, 2) 5c, 3) 5c, 4) 6a+, 5) 6b, 6) 6b & A1, 7) 6a+, 8) 5a. Sublime indeed, a bit polished with it, but still sublime! Carry a small rack to plug the gaps. Start round to the right of the pillar and climb the groove and cracks until on the fifth pitch an unlikely looking traverse heads out left into the middle of nowhere. The wall above the tree is 7a if done free, though a bit of aid is the norm. Pitches 4 and 5 can be linked with 60m ropes if required. © Rockfax

Abi Chard 23/Sep/16 AltLd

Impossible to grade, but definitely not 6a+/A0 as given in local guide. Awesome position and climbing.

with Ian
Hidden 31/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
climbingpixie 31/Aug/15 AltLd dog

Way too much faff to good climbing ratio. The highlight was the Luna Bong abseil - the day went downhill after that. Stood on a bolt on the 4th (6a+) pitch to get past the polished crack, then another on the crux 7a pitch, followed by one more to get past the hanging block of polished doom. Not a good indication of the quality of Verdon climbing!!

with Andy
jcw ??/2014 -
John Carney 26/Aug/13 2nd

Same day 'enchainement' of Eperon Sublime + Luna Bong = Eperon Bong / Luna Sublime!!!

with Adam George
Hidden ?/May/13 2nd
Cheshire Dave 09/Jun/12 AltLd

Great route for us - superb 5c juggy cracks up until the hand traverse! I led that but needed some aid - couldn't lock off on one arm and clip bolts with feet smearing on the polish! Chris "blew a fuse" at the top of the 7a pitch - aided the first bit ok but we found the final overhang too hard for 6a+ - and the big block you end up hanging off to get over it seems only to be attached to the crag by the broken tat wedged on either side of it - scary! Meant to do Luna Bong but bird banned until August due to nesting vultures.

with Chris
Goucho ?/May/12 AltLd rpt
Hidden 26/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
uphillnow 26/Jun/11 -
stuart34 11/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

P 1 - 4 aided through the 7a move

Hidden 11/Apr/11 AltLd
alpinist63 ?/Apr/11 -
Hidden 21/Sep/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden 17/Sep/06 AltLd O/S
K1 ??/2006 -
John Cuthbert 13/Sep/95 AltLd

Not to be under-estimated. a bit polished, but v.varied. exposed if a storm is coming in...

with Bonehead
Hidden ?/May/95 -
Steve Crowe 23/Sep/91 AltLd O/S

Took us 7 hours!

with KM
Hidden ??/1990 -
SB_NWUK_99 ??/1990 AltLd

Enjoyable climbing with a lightning storm finish if I remember right. We might have aided the hardest move (in-situ sling?), as was suggested in the guidebook at the time.

Neil R 29/Apr/89 AltLd

Top few pitches only

with Howard
eroica64 07/Sep/88 AltLd

Partner went bonkers from thirst and tried to climb solo. I aided 5b pitch to get us out.

with John Graeme
andy gittins ??/1986 -
Hidden 11/Sep/85 AltLd O/S
Robmwatt ??/1985 Lead
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ?/Sep/84 AltLd

Abseiled in down luna bong to find we had left the topo at the top! Found the route but got the pitch lengths very wrong with both of us climbing together for 50' for john to get to a belay.

with John Topping
Nigel Coe ?/Apr/84 AltLd dog

2 aid points

with Pete Oxley
teebee1805 08/Sep/83 Lead O/S

1 pt of aid

with CJ
Hidden 29/Aug/82 AltLd
Dave Turnbull ?/Aug/82 Lead
Hidden ?/Aug/82 Lead O/S
Nic Robinson 24/Jul/82 Lead O/S
with Irish George
petemeads ??/1982 AltLd O/S

Best route we did in the Gorge, perfect limestone with pockets where required, not at all frightening (unlike the rest of them!)

with Chip Chilton
Falko ??/1982 AltLd O/S
with Chris Plant
Hidden 13/Aug/81 AltLd
keefe ?/Aug/81 -
Mark Kemball ?/Sep/80 AltLd
Hidden 29/Aug/80 Lead
The Reaper 16/Jul/80 AltLd O/S
dtalbot ?/Jun/80 AltLd
with Rory O'Conor
duncan ?/Apr/80 AltLd dog

With the standard (at that time) 2 points of aid

with Bob
Paul Clarke ??/1980 AltLd O/S

First route here - a good starter

with Andy Dunhill
Hidden ??/1980 AltLd
tmawer ??/1980 AltLd O/S

Fell off trying to climb traverse free and held by Rick on a waist belay...managed to grab the ropes hanging down from him to regain the route but all quite exciting! point of aid higher up.

with Rick
johno072 ??/1980 AltLd
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High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 7
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set