Rockfax Description
A great line up the left-hand side of the crag which follows the steep grooves. Start below a right-facing groove with a capping roof, as for Oriole.
1) 5c, 30m. Start with difficulty up the corner and continue until just before the roof. Pull around to the right and move up to a small ledge and a spike belay.
2) 5b, 10m. Climb up to a small roof and move left around this. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Top end of the grade. Climb the capped groove in the LH arete of the main wall (hard to start). At the overlap, traverse R and move up round the arete to gain another groove(Clonus LH). Either continue directly up to join the finish of Oriole or, after a few moves, go R to another groove and gain a ledge awkwardly. (Belay to avoid drag). Continue up the groove to the top.

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, Ultimate E2 ticklist, The 30 best E3 routes in the UK?, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Hidden 26 Aug AltLd
piken 23 Jul -
George_Surf 10 Jul Lead O/S Bit of a chunky start then sustained bridging with long moves and an initially tricky traverse. It eases above, the mantel is ok but more steep bridging to the top. Airy. Belayed on the tiny ledge, the arête lower down would be a better spot though.
Bit of a chunky start then sustained bridging with long moves and an initially tricky traverse. It eases above, the mantel is ok but more steep bridging to the top. Airy. Belayed on the tiny ledge, the arête lower down would be a better spot though.
rachelpearce01 10 Jul AltLd O/S
Hidden 23 Jun, 2018 Lead dog
Sophie Nunn 20 May, 2018 2nd O/S In 1 pitch
In 1 pitch
adamre12 20 May, 2018 Lead O/S Led in 1 pitch. Brilliant route, tough at the grade.
with Sophie
Led in 1 pitch. Brilliant route, tough at the grade.
with Sophie
Dan Arkle 13 May, 2018 2nd
Mike W 17 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S In one. Epic!
In one. Epic!
Chriswallis2 17 Aug, 2017 Lead β Led on Mike's gear.
with Mike W
Led on Mike's gear.
with Mike W
Rob Pitt 11 Sep, 2016 AltLd P1
with Guy
P1
with Guy
Hidden 11 Sep, 2016 -
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 11 Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S p1. thought it would be steady after the pull in to the groove but it was sustained and strenuous all the way until the belay. second pitch was also great with massive exposure space-walking style.
with Leon
p1. thought it would be steady after the pull in to the groove but it was sustained and strenuous all the way until the belay. second pitch was also great with massive exposure space-walking style.
with Leon
Lenny 11 Sep, 2016 AltLd dog
with Theo
with Theo
shed_hed 14 Aug, 2016 2nd rpt Great route, nice to do it again.
Great route, nice to do it again.
robpartridge 14 Aug, 2016 Lead
with Darren McMaster
with Darren McMaster
Billg 14 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S
with Will Calvert
with Will Calvert
Hidden 31 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S
Dizz 31 Jul, 2016 2nd O/S
with Paul Tanton
with Paul Tanton
GPN 14 May, 2016 Lead O/S
with Fran
with Fran
soph 14 May, 2016 Lead rpt
with Jen Stafford Curtis
with Jen Stafford Curtis
dswansonlow 3 Oct, 2015 2nd rpt
with Jdoc
with Jdoc
Jdoc 3 Oct, 2015 Lead
Ramon Marin 3 Oct, 2015 Lead O/S Done in one pitch, tough
with dave pickford
Done in one pitch, tough
with dave pickford
PTatts 19 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S Led first (crux) pitch. Excellent route. Heard talk of it being E3 but felt solid E2.
with Will Harris
Led first (crux) pitch. Excellent route. Heard talk of it being E3 but felt solid E2.
with Will Harris
Hidden 18 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S
breed 22 Mar, 2015 AltLd O/S Great route. Tough p1 led p2. Prob e2 as there was loads of gear and bridge rests.
Great route. Tough p1 led p2. Prob e2 as there was loads of gear and bridge rests.
tim newton 8 Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S Lead pitch 1 to the good hanging belay on the arête where you can watch your second grapple with the hard groove. Felt well worth E3 to me by Welsh standards. A tough warm up, in fact so tough we left straight after!
Lead pitch 1 to the good hanging belay on the arête where you can watch your second grapple with the hard groove. Felt well worth E3 to me by Welsh standards. A tough warm up, in fact so tough we left straight after!
Rachel Slater 8 Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S Lead the second pitch from the arete belay. Really good climbing but a total sand-bag at E2!
Lead the second pitch from the arete belay. Really good climbing but a total sand-bag at E2!
Ed Babs 1 Jul, 2014 AltLd β P2 after Alex had to show me how to do the start of P1. Still tough on 2nd!
with AlexD
P2 after Alex had to show me how to do the start of P1. Still tough on 2nd!
with AlexD
AlexD 1 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S Tough-going up to the roof, being simultaneously not warmed-up and completely wasted from previous days adventure! Absolutely bomber gear though. Wild moves beneath the roof, and up the arete (used my chin to hold myself in for one move!) Intended to belay on arete after traverse as suggested in guidebook, but wasn't too confident in the stability of the blocks. Loved the little ledge belay though, 5 star view!
with Ed Babs
Tough-going up to the roof, being simultaneously not warmed-up and completely wasted from previous days adventure! Absolutely bomber gear though. Wild moves beneath the roof, and up the arete (used my chin to hold myself in for one move!) Intended to belay on arete after traverse as suggested in guidebook, but wasn't too confident in the stability of the blocks. Loved the little ledge belay though, 5 star view!
with Ed Babs
Ewan Russell 8 Mar, 2014 AltLd O/S p2
with gwen
p2
with gwen
Frank the Husky ??, 2014 -
shed_hed 25 May, 2013 2nd O/S Amazing climb, one of the best E2's I've climbed - cool moves in incredible positions.
Amazing climb, one of the best E2's I've climbed - cool moves in incredible positions.
dswansonlow 25 May, 2013 Lead O/S In one pitch. Such continually interesting climbing and stunning positions!
In one pitch. Such continually interesting climbing and stunning positions!
miastacey 25 May, 2013 Lead
with Heather Clarke
with Heather Clarke
PeteHarrisonmustbebanned ?May, 2013 AltLd O/S Some big loose stuff on the top pitch
Some big loose stuff on the top pitch
peteharrison06 ?May, 2013 AltLd O/S Some big loose stuff on the top pitch
Some big loose stuff on the top pitch
Hidden 24 May, 2012 2nd dog
Hidden ??, 2012 Lead O/S
willoates 30 Sep, 2011 AltLd O/S lead the 2nd pitch, 1st pitch is hard.
with Glyn
lead the 2nd pitch, 1st pitch is hard.
with Glyn
Glyn 30 Sep, 2011 AltLd O/S
with Will Oates
with Will Oates
khawk 23 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S
with datoon
with datoon
Steve Crowe 22 Jul, 2011 2nd O/S Superb route which we climbed in one pitch with careful rope work. However it is probably better as two pitches, belaying soon after the traverse as mention on another comment as it reduces likley rope drag also it reduces rope stretch for the second on the tricky start and improves communication. Finally it improves the second pitch.
with karin
Superb route which we climbed in one pitch with careful rope work. However it is probably better as two pitches, belaying soon after the traverse as mention on another comment as it reduces likley rope drag also it reduces rope stretch for the second on the tricky start and improves communication. Finally it improves the second pitch.
with karin
Hidden 17 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S
ksjs 8 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S Hmm, another yr Eryr route with a query over the grade. Easier than Astoroth but more physical which suits me. Hard to get established / place gear at the bottom of the crack but things get easier the higher you get. Perfect gear all the way. The traverse looks hard before you do it but is fine. Another E3 6a from P Williams and E2 5c from NWR; I'm dead against grade creep but E3 5c seems OK for this. By the way, very good climbing; belayed on blocks on arete after traverse, this makes 2nd pitch much more worthwhile / route more balanced.
with jo
Hmm, another yr Eryr route with a query over the grade. Easier than Astoroth but more physical which suits me. Hard to get established / place gear at the bottom of the crack but things get easier the higher you get. Perfect gear all the way. The traverse looks hard before you do it but is fine. Another E3 6a from P Williams and E2 5c from NWR; I'm dead against grade creep but E3 5c seems OK for this. By the way, very good climbing; belayed on blocks on arete after traverse, this makes 2nd pitch much more worthwhile / route more balanced.
with jo
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Marti999 18 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S
Graham C 18 Jun, 2010 2nd O/S
dan gibson 27 May, 2010 Lead O/S
with john nuttal
with john nuttal
Adam Ellwood 10 Apr, 2010 AltLd O/S Nice Route, did first pitch
Nice Route, did first pitch
soph 1 Jan, 2010 -
Hidden 6 Aug, 2009 AltLd O/S
Hidden 13 Jun, 2009 AltLd O/S
Tom Briggs 25 May, 2009 2nd Battered from the previous day. Struggled up this and then went home...
with Bob Smith
Battered from the previous day. Struggled up this and then went home...
with Bob Smith
Brown 14 Sep, 2008 Lead O/S
with Henry
with Henry
Hidden 27 Aug, 2008 2nd dog
Rory Shaw 27 Aug, 2008 Lead
pete johnson 14 Jun, 2008 Lead
with Andy Boorman
with Andy Boorman
mux 8 Jun, 2008 -
with frost
with frost
frost 8 Jun, 2008 Lead
with D Garry
with D Garry
NeilGriffiths ?Jun, 2008 AltLd 1st pitch
with Dave Almond
1st pitch
with Dave Almond
spidey 9 Jul, 2005 Lead O/S
uphillnow 7 Aug, 2004 AltLd Phil did pitch 1 and I did pitch 2. Had participated in the first (aided)ascent of some of pitch 1 in 1960's before the whole thing was completed by Jack Ball and Marshal Reeve. At least one photo of this.
with Phil Gibson
Phil did pitch 1 and I did pitch 2. Had participated in the first (aided)ascent of some of pitch 1 in 1960's before the whole thing was completed by Jack Ball and Marshal Reeve. At least one photo of this.
with Phil Gibson
Hidden 23 May, 2004 Lead O/S
Gus 13 May, 2004 Lead O/S
Hidden 23 Jun, 2001 AltLd
Hidden 23 Jun, 2001 AltLd
pete johnson 30 Aug, 1997 Lead O/S
with Lun
with Lun
Roget 27 Jul, 1997 Lead O/S
with jon
with jon
michael burrows 28 Apr, 1996 Lead dog 1 pt of aid
with steve ward
1 pt of aid
with steve ward
michael burrows 7 May, 1995 2nd
with richard parry
with richard parry
D Tempest 15 Aug, 1993 Lead Not sure of date
with Rick
Not sure of date
with Rick
Mark Kemball 14 Aug, 1992 Lead
with Alison Dorey
with Alison Dorey
steveb2006 12 Aug, 1990 Lead Good sustained main pitch. Simon leads upper pitch
with Simon Mee
Good sustained main pitch. Simon leads upper pitch
with Simon Mee
Hidden 26 May, 1990 Lead
wynaptomos ?Aug, 1989 2nd O/S
Hidden 25 Apr, 1987 2nd
charlesmfrench 26 Oct, 1985 AltLd O/S
with Dave Booth
with Dave Booth
Dave Turnbull 18 Mar, 1984 -
with Paul Greenland
with Paul Greenland
Hidden ??, 1984 AltLd
Hidden 29 Aug, 1983 Lead
Steve Lewis 14 Aug, 1983 Lead O/S
with Clive Curle
with Clive Curle
Neil McA 15 Jul, 1983 Lead O/S Felt quite hard
with Johnny Dawes
Felt quite hard
with Johnny Dawes
Mike Owen 16 Jun, 1983 Lead O/S
with Steve Foxley
with Steve Foxley
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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 26
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 25
Votes cast 22
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Not Set