Rockfax Description
A great line up the left-hand side of the crag which follows the steep grooves. Start below a right-facing groove with a capping roof, as for Oriole.
1) 5c, 30m. Start with difficulty up the corner and continue until just before the roof. Pull around to the right and move up to a small ledge and a spike belay.
2) 5b, 10m. Climb up to a small roof and move left around this. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Top end of the grade. Climb the capped groove in the LH arete of the main wall (hard to start). At the overlap, traverse R and move up round the arete to gain another groove(Clonus LH). Either continue directly up to join the finish of Oriole or, after a few moves, go R to another groove and gain a ledge awkwardly. (Belay to avoid drag). Continue up the groove to the top.

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, Ultimate E2 ticklist, The 30 best E3 routes in the UK?.

Mike W 17/Aug/17 Lead O/S

In one. Epic!

with chris
Chriswallis2 17/Aug/17 Lead β

Led on Mike's gear.

with Mike W
Rob Pitt 11/Sep/16 AltLd


with Guy
guy757 11/Sep/16 -
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 11/Sep/16 AltLd O/S

p1. thought it would be steady after the pull in to the groove but it was sustained and strenuous all the way until the belay. second pitch was also great with massive exposure space-walking style.

with Leon
Lenny 11/Sep/16 AltLd dog
with Theo
shed_hed 14/Aug/16 2nd rpt

Great route, nice to do it again.

robpartridge 14/Aug/16 Lead
with Darren McMaster
Billg 14/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Will Calvert
PaulTanton 31/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Liz
Dizz 31/Jul/16 2nd O/S
with Paul Tanton
GPN 14/May/16 Lead O/S
with Fran
soph 14/May/16 Lead rpt
with Jen Stafford Curtis
dswansonlow 03/Oct/15 2nd rpt
Jdoc 03/Oct/15 Lead
Ramon Marin 03/Oct/15 Lead O/S

Done in one pitch, tough

with dave pickford
tatz45 19/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

Led first (crux) pitch. Excellent route. Heard talk of it being E3 but felt solid E2.

with Will Harris
Hidden 18/Apr/15 Lead O/S
breed 22/Mar/15 AltLd O/S

Great route. Tough p1 led p2. Prob e2 as there was loads of gear and bridge rests.

tim newton 08/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Lead pitch 1 to the good hanging belay on the arête where you can watch your second grapple with the hard groove. Felt well worth E3 to me by Welsh standards. A tough warm up, in fact so tough we left straight after!

Rachel Slater 08/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Lead the second pitch from the arete belay. Really good climbing but a total sand-bag at E2!

Ed Babs 01/Jul/14 AltLd β

P2 after Alex had to show me how to do the start of P1. Still tough on 2nd!

with AlexD
AlexD 01/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Tough-going up to the roof, being simultaneously not warmed-up and completely wasted from previous days adventure! Absolutely bomber gear though. Wild moves beneath the roof, and up the arete (used my chin to hold myself in for one move!) Intended to belay on arete after traverse as suggested in guidebook, but wasn't too confident in the stability of the blocks. Loved the little ledge belay though, 5 star view!

with Ed
Ewan Russell 08/Mar/14 AltLd O/S


with gwen
Frank the Husky ??/2014 -
shed_hed 25/May/13 2nd O/S

Amazing climb, one of the best E2's I've climbed - cool moves in incredible positions.

dswansonlow 25/May/13 Lead O/S

In one pitch. Such continually interesting climbing and stunning positions!

miastacey 25/May/13 Lead
with Heather Clarke
PeteHarrisonmustbebanned ?/May/13 AltLd O/S

Some big loose stuff on the top pitch

peteharrison06 ?/May/13 AltLd O/S

Some big loose stuff on the top pitch

Hidden 24/May/12 2nd dog
Hidden ??/2012 Lead O/S
willoates 30/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

lead the 2nd pitch, 1st pitch is hard.

with Glyn
Glyn 30/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
with Will Oates
khawk 23/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with DT
Steve Crowe 22/Jul/11 2nd O/S

Superb route which we climbed in one pitch with careful rope work. However it is probably better as two pitches, belaying soon after the traverse as mention on another comment as it reduces likley rope drag also it reduces rope stretch for the second on the tricky start and improves communication. Finally it improves the second pitch.

with KM
Hidden 17/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
ksjs 08/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Hmm, another yr Eryr route with a query over the grade. Easier than Astoroth but more physical which suits me. Hard to get established / place gear at the bottom of the crack but things get easier the higher you get. Perfect gear all the way. The traverse looks hard before you do it but is fine. Another E3 6a from P Williams and E2 5c from NWR; I'm dead against grade creep but E3 5c seems OK for this. By the way, very good climbing; belayed on blocks on arete after traverse, this makes 2nd pitch much more worthwhile / route more balanced.

with jo
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Marti999 18/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Graham C 18/Jun/10 2nd O/S
with Marti
dan gibson 27/May/10 Lead O/S
with john nuttal
Adam Ellwood 10/Apr/10 AltLd O/S

Nice Route, did first pitch

soph 01/Jan/10 -
Rich Kirby 06/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
with Ewan
Hidden 13/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 25/May/09 2nd

Battered from the previous day. Struggled up this and then went home...

with Bob Smith
Brown 14/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Henry
Hidden 27/Aug/08 2nd dog
Rory Shaw 27/Aug/08 Lead
pete johnson 14/Jun/08 Lead
with Andy Boorman
mux 08/Jun/08 -
frost 08/Jun/08 Lead
with D Garry
NeilGriffiths ?/Jun/08 AltLd

1st pitch

with Dave Almond
spidey 09/Jul/05 Lead O/S
uphillnow 07/Aug/04 AltLd

Phil did pitch 1 and I did pitch 2. Had participated in the first (aided)ascent of some of pitch 1 in 1960's before the whole thing was completed by Jack Ball and Marshal Reeve. At least one photo of this.

with Phil Gibson
Hidden 23/May/04 Lead O/S
Gus 13/May/04 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Jun/01 AltLd
Hidden 23/Jun/01 AltLd
pete johnson 30/Aug/97 Lead O/S
with Lun
Roget 27/Jul/97 Lead O/S
with jon
michael burrows 28/Apr/96 Lead dog

1 pt of aid

with steve ward
michael burrows 07/May/95 2nd
with richard parry
D Tempest 15/Aug/93 Lead

Not sure of date

with Rick
Mark Kemball 14/Aug/92 Lead
with Alison Dorey
Hidden 12/Aug/90 Lead
wynaptomos ?/Aug/89 2nd O/S
Hidden 25/Apr/87 2nd
charlesmfrench 26/Oct/85 AltLd O/S
with Dave Booth
Dave Turnbull 18/Mar/84 -
with Paul Greenland
Hidden ??/1984 AltLd
Hidden 29/Aug/83 Lead
Steve Lewis 14/Aug/83 Lead O/S
with Clive Curle
Neil McA 15/Jul/83 Lead O/S

Felt quite hard

with Johnny Dawes
Mike Owen 16/Jun/83 Lead O/S
with Steve Foxley
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