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Ticklists: Mid-Grade Scottish Winter.


ClimberDateStyle
Misha 12/Feb AltLd O/S

Sunday route. We were staying at Torridon YHA and originally planned to climb on Meal Gorm but it wasn't in, so trekked down here. Strong Easterly all day but not much snow on the walk in and crag in decent winter nick, so a good option. I kicked off by starting up a short steep and gearless wall slightly left of the P2 corner line. Not sure if that was the official start. Belated at the top of the snowy bay but it's better to also climb the ramp above and belay right below the corner. Alex did the money pitch, which was nails for the grade - more like VI 7! Lots of ledges and bridging positions so plenty of rests and the gear is decent but it's sustained and technical, with several mini cruxes, especially given that there wasn't much ice or neve. Good lead! I did the turfy finishing groove, Ueli Steck style (well, kind of). 3.5 hours on the route and 7.5 hour round trip.

with Alex
alexm198 12/Feb AltLd O/S

P2 is great, just a shame the other pitches are filler. I thought it felt high in the grade for tech 6, but probably not hard enough to be tech 7. Nice conditions at the moment, turf well frozen but a bit more neve might've helped on some of the ledges. Led P2.

calumhicks 10/Feb Lead O/S
with John Mckenna
timmyfuckinmiller 10/Feb AltLd O/S

good middle pitch

DavidMcK 10/Feb -

Good route, all about pitch 2.

John McKenna 10/Feb AltLd O/S

P1 & 3.

Martin McKenna - UKC 10/Feb AltLd O/S
Liam Watson 10/Feb AltLd

Definitely deserves three stars, just get two teams to go before you to clear out all of the powder.

davesa 05/Feb AltLd

highly recommended

with Mark Huxham
BrianShackleton 14/Jan AltLd

Climbed in 4 pitches, with short 2nd pitch to gain (awkward and hard) the ramp to the foot of the excellent main corner. Nice torchlight exit (first time this season) on top pitch!

with Tom Jumar
stuart34 10/Mar/16 AltLd O/S
with Fowler
Hidden 21/Feb/16 Lead dnf
Cloverleaf 15/Feb/16 AltLd

Led pitches 1 & 3 with Col taking the crux pitch in the middle. Did direct start from belay over bulge and then belayed for pitch two after the awkward ramp into the groove. Lots of powder in places but hovering about -3c all day and blue, windless skies. About as good as a day in Scotland gets. Swore profusely during the 2nd pitch and definitely would not have been up for leading that!

with Colin B
bandersnatch 15/Feb/16 AltLd O/S

Great route...deserves the stars! It's all about P2......which provides continuous interest and just enough gear. A must-do.

with Ali Mac
elliptic 13/Feb/16 AltLd
with Huw
Lamb 03/Feb/16 AltLd O/S

Good sustained climbing on middle pitch with great hooks and protection; crux packs a wee punch. Excellent route.

with Marcus
olekemi 20/Jan/16 AltLd

Some digging and thin ice on crux, but a very good day out. Skipped the top pitch and went up the alternative finish, with added harder climbing and interest.

with Jeremy M
salix 16/Jan/16 AltLd

Led first and third pitches. Topped out in the dark, loads of digging needed on top pitch. Brilliant day out.

with Amy
AmyG 16/Jan/16 AltLd O/S
Simon Yearsley 09/Jan/16 AltLd
shamonster ??/2016 Lead
with rich
Hidden 01/Feb/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 12/Jan/15 Lead
Gordon Lacey 26/Dec/13 AltLd
with Neil Adams
Neil Adams 26/Dec/13 AltLd O/S

Surprisingly good conditions considering it was raining about 200m below! Turf generally well frozen, and solid ice & neve near the top. Good climbing.

with Gordon Lacey
Dunx 11/Feb/13 AltLd
with Steve Holmes
machars 02/Feb/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 02/Feb/13 AltLd O/S
D.Russell 19/Jan/13 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 2

with Adam
Hidden 19/Jan/13 AltLd O/S
Jamie B 06/Dec/12 Lead
Ken Applegate 02/Dec/12 Lead

Excellent climb, the second pitch is quite sustained for the grade, but well protected. Turf was well frozen.

Hannah Evans 02/Dec/12 2nd
Hidden 01/Dec/12 Lead O/S
Andrew Sloan 29/Jan/12 AltLd O/S

Did in 4 pitches (split 2nd pitch into 2). I led 1st and 3rd pitches, ice a bit lean at top of groove. Great route but nails hard.

Martin Haworth 29/Jan/12 AltLd O/S

Great route, found it hard for the grade. Took us much longer than it should have, finished in the dark.

with Andy
jfmchivall 20/Dec/11 -

Fair amount of ice in the groove. Jeremy led pitch 2.

with Jeremy Morris
Northern Mountain Monkey 18/Dec/11 Lead O/S

Excellent quality mixed, with a fair bit of ice on the crux pitch with a small steep ice pitch at the top. First successful mixed V.

Hidden 18/Dec/11 AltLd
chapmand 17/Dec/11 AltLd O/S

I led the corner pitch, my first V 6.

with Matt Balmer, Pete Rhodes
Roberttaylor 10/Dec/11 AltLd O/S

Really amazing day out from Glasgow. I led p3 (about II/III)

with Christopher Hawkins, Jacob Davies
ClimberMH 10/Dec/11 AltLd O/S
with Robert Taylor, Jacob Davies
Hidden ?/Dec/11 AltLd dog
Hidden 03/Jan/11 2nd
alkira ??/2011 -
Stuart the postie ??/2011 -
with Ian Dempster
tomdude 09/Dec/10 AltLd

very nice. first successful V!

with Rich Abel
Hidden 05/Dec/10 AltLd O/S
Andy Moles 01/Dec/10 Lead O/S
with Ferdia
ferdia 01/Dec/10 2nd
with Andy
Hidden 26/Nov/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 07/Mar/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 07/Mar/10 AltLd
Hidden 10/Feb/10 AltLd O/S
Luke Brooks ?/Feb/10 AltLd
simon_D 24/Jan/10 AltLd
with Neil Silver
Hidden ??/2010 -
Ally Baba 07/Feb/09 AltLd
with M.Hartree,
Hidden 24/Jan/09 AltLd O/S
Chad123 29/Nov/08 AltLd rpt

Bit harder than last time due to ice smears and less snow on the ledges. Most of the turf well frozen. Still a great route with lots of interest on all three pitches....(seems to be the winter warm up route of choice!)

with Lard
decs 05/Feb/08 AltLd

The alternative finish adds interest. The first pitch was a bit rubbish (perhaps the wall start was banked out).

with Gaz
Chad123 02/Feb/08 AltLd O/S

Classic climb, top two pitches have plenty of fun moves on solid turf in a cool groove....

with Konrad
Joe Nunn 02/Feb/08 2nd
with tom stewart
sgl 18/Jan/06 AltLd
with Konnie
Hidden 18/Jan/06 AltLd O/S
Jonathan Lagoe - UKC ?/Dec/05 AltLd
with Andy Hyslop
Yourlead 06/Feb/02 2nd

Supurb sustained & very technical route, with thin ice and partialy frozen turf. On walk in saw golden eagle take off and fly over Grahams head!!

with Graham Penny
graeme gatherer ??/2000 -
Hidden 28/Dec/96 AltLd O/S
Andy Clark 28/Dec/96 AltLd
with Burnsie
Hidden ?/Nov/96 Lead
TobyA 22/Jan/96 AltLd O/S

Good full-on mid-winter conditions. Ed took an age on the crux pitch.

with Ed
Hidden ??/1993 AltLd
Hidden ?/Mar/92 AltLd
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Voting
High VI
Mid VI
Low VI
High V
Mid V
Low V
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
Votes cast 26
High 7
Mid 7
Low 7
High 6
Mid 6
Low 6
High 5
Mid 5
Low 5
Votes cast 26
Votes cast 24
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Not Set