UKC

60m, 3 pitches. An adventurous sport route! Start at the arête just right of the large cave mouth. P1 and P2 can be completed in one long pitch: long quickdraws required to reduce drag, 70m+ rope needed to lower off after P2 - Care needed. The bolted line loosely follows the original 1961 route but is more direct with a variation finish.
1) 5c. Climb the arête then move up diagonally rightwards to gain a small belay ledge by the finish of Pure Conjecture, just below a small triangular overhang.
2) 6a+. Ascend the open corner above to the square-cut nose on the right. Climb the arête of the nose (committing and hard for the grade) then continue back leftwards and up a groove to a belay (possible abseil/lower-off).
3) 6a. Traverse out left to a top-out up a groove, heading left to a small tier with resin bolt anchors. Walk off right to the ski station.

FA. Alan Davies, Dave Birchley Jun/1961.

Ticklists

All multi-pitch sport routes (England and Wales)

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User Date Notes
Ian Ford 11 Aug, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Lower off before last pitch recommended as it’s loose and overgrown. Also ukc and North Wales Limestone pitch description is a little different.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Lower off before last pitch recommended as it’s loose and overgrown. Also ukc and North Wales Limestone pitch description is a little different.

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High 6b+
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