Rockfax Description
A popular crack-climb and nearly always out of the clutches of the sea. Start on a high ledge at its left end below a thin crack.
1) 5a, 19m. Climb the thin crack and then step left to another, which quickly leads to a good ledge. Climb a left leading flake-crack and then work back up right to a stance and belay next to a gully.
2) 4c, 14m. Move up the gully to below an overhanging V-shaped corner. On its left wall is a series of thin undercut cracks, climb these to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, CUC Climbing Club, Part 1: The Classics.

Mattholland96 13/Nov/16 Lead O/S
with Cal Pearson
Hidden 09/Oct/16 2nd rpt
dripdry1 09/Oct/16 Lead dog

Kills me to say I rested on my first HVS ! But now that some of the fear is gone Ill be back to HVS guns blazing ! As 3 pitches, top two clean.

jing 27/Aug/16 2nd O/S

Disjointed and unbalanced. Also quite hard. Meh.

with Vince
Hidden 12/Aug/16 Lead dnf
Hidden 02/Aug/16 AltLd
Hidden 31/Jul/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Jul/16 AltLd rpt
Wendy Watthews 31/Jul/16 AltLd rpt


with Henry H, JakeB.
Mr Tickle 29/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

Led P1. Really good pitch with a tough start.

with Sally
Hidden 29/Jul/16 AltLd
david_mcnicol88 15/Jul/16 -
kyaizawa 17/Jun/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Jun/16 2nd O/S
Henry Brett 17/Jun/16 2nd O/S
JRJones 15/Jun/16 Lead O/S

start and end are worthwhile, middle bit pretty dull.

with bex
Hidden 14/Jun/16 2nd O/S
Hidden 12/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
partz 12/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
Alex Wade 12/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
G Weatherley 05/Jun/16 AltLd

Ed took pitch 1 after I decided I wasn't up to leading it. He set up intermediate belay after the first cracks and I finished with the flake-crack and top pitch.

with Ed Walker
Hidden ?/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
JackM92 13/May/16 AltLd O/S

Felt nails after dislocating my shoulder an hour previously.

manbat 20/Apr/16 2nd rpt

Remains quite a tricky climb!

with Luke Randall
garywong 28/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

Led P1. Didn't have a guidebook, so ended up the wrong (but worthwhile) leftward leaning crack at the ledge. Loic got back on-route with a small traverse.

with Loic Menzies
Hidden 28/Aug/15 2nd
Hidden 11/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Aug/15 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/15 Lead
Paula Ryan ?/Jul/15 2nd
Hidden 26/May/15 AltLd
Ewan Russell 26/May/15 Lead O/S

Think we did top pitch donna for top pitch?

with Halla
Hidden 17/May/15 2nd rpt
Chilidog 17/May/15 2nd O/S
with Pete Greening, Tom Last
Hidden 15/May/15 Lead O/S
fulton333 15/May/15 2nd
with JakeB
Hidden 07/May/15 2nd
Bargate_Champ 07/May/15 Lead O/S
lost.arrow 02/May/15 AltLd

Stu gets the first and tricky pitch.

with Stu Sherwood
crawa003 06/Apr/15 Lead
with Jack darling
Brian H 05/Apr/15 AltLd
with Rob Davies
Rob Davies 05/Apr/15 AltLd

Cold fingers to start. We probably wandered on to something else on P2.

JoeCoxson 08/Feb/15 Lead O/S

Took a couple of goes to commit up the first few moves, a balanced approach is definitely necessary.

Will Mortimer 30/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Milton Wakefield
fulton333 28/Sep/14 Lead
e.sunnyside 28/Sep/14 2nd
with Grant
whiteexplorer 14/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with joe
dready 14/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Sep/14 AltLd
eel 10/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Ted
cem 03/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Led p1. Tough.

petegruf 03/Sep/14 AltLd
Hidden 26/Jul/14 2nd
Lumbering Oaf 23/Jun/14 AltLd rpt

Matt P1, me P2 after a nice gear faff. Led top of P1 as start of P2.

manbat 23/Jun/14 AltLd dog

Stoked to lead this beast (P1), but shame had to take a rest on my gear. Not as pumpy on the arms as expected, but hard as nails on the feet. Also thought the big ledge was the end of P1, so Matt continued up the slab/flake which was also tricky.

klipkabouter 23/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
with German Patrick
bpmclimb 28/May/14 Lead O/S
with Clare
Huntlyfiddler 28/May/14 2nd
Simon cook ??/2014 -
Hidden 10/Jun/13 2nd
mat cooper 25/May/13 Lead O/S
Nick Wallis ?/May/13 AltLd
with BMC international meet
Hidden 15/Apr/13 2nd O/S
Spearos 01/Apr/13 AltLd rpt

Had climbed to the first ledge four years ago, first lead of the year, loads of faffing around eventually got me to the belay. Nice few moves on final black wall.

with Riggo
dprctr 29/Mar/13 AltLd O/S

Lead P1. Scary without cams.

with Patrick
zcsharp 16/Mar/13 Lead rpt

Lead the first pitch then couldn't be bothered to do the second pitch so went around to the left instead.

with Sam Hooper
Ed morris 16/Feb/13 Lead O/S
with Colin
janegallwey ??/2013 Lead
Hidden 24/Sep/12 2nd
Mayo 06/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Jul/12 Lead O/S
tim.fairhall 27/Jul/12 Lead O/S

P1 Terrace Cracks, P2 Dolphin Cracks

with Catty
Mike_Hayes 11/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Thunderthighsontheloose 11/Jul/12 2nd

Great crack climb - scary but fun!

mark88 04/Jun/12 AltLd
with Paul Millen
El3ctroFuzz 15/Apr/12 AltLd
with Elaine Budden
Elaine Budden 15/Apr/12 AltLd O/S

2nd pitch

guy757 14/Apr/12 -
Marti999 14/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
with Guy Buckingham
Hidden 08/Apr/12 AltLd dog
tobydunford 03/Apr/12 2nd O/S
with Harry Martin
zcsharp 17/Mar/12 2nd
with Becky, Al
Davebryant 26/Feb/12 Lead
arandall 12/Feb/12 Lead O/S

Really scary, very top end of HVS. Did as 3 pitches so I could be sure Wendy could do it. The 2nd pitch (3rd for me) had some really good moves.

Wendy Watthews 12/Feb/12 2nd
wojt ??/2012 Lead O/S
Julesthe1st 28/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
with Mike
embob 26/Aug/11 2nd

Nicely sustained crack pitch, and great contrasting 2nd pitch on black rock up the left wall.

with Alex
Hidden 26/Aug/11 Lead
manbat 17/Aug/11 TR O/S

Climbed it a year ago with great difficulty and lots of rests. Climbed it mich better today. great to see some improvement!

Lumbering Oaf 17/Aug/11 TR
Matt Fry 29/Jun/11 Solo O/S

Nest in the corner after the big flake so we finished up the RHS of the roof - absolutely brilliant climbing through great terrain with no change in grade. A far more appealing-looking proposition than the original route!

LisaA 28/Jun/11 Lead O/S
AlistairB 28/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with Lisa
Hidden 31/May/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 31/May/11 AltLd
Hidden 31/May/11 Lead O/S
Clay C 12/Mar/11 AltLd dog
Alasdair88 12/Mar/11 AltLd O/S


lrandall 05/Mar/11 Lead O/S

The lower cracks of the first pitch are as sustained and enjoyable to climb as they look. The upper flake crack and second pitch all felt a bit disjointed (and thrutchy at times!). Worth seeking out for the initial cracks, might be worth trying to join the second pitch Dolphin Cracks here? Would yield a good 2 star combination.

with Matt
Hidden 05/Mar/11 AltLd
paddymitton ?/Mar/11 Lead

Top pitch only as a finish to Hayloft

cornishmackem ??/2011 -
Justin T 23/Oct/10 AltLd O/S
with Cherry
nickstephens 19/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Rob Davies 16/Sep/10 AltLd

Backed off P1, then Phil finished it

with Phil Ashton
Rowansb 14/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with dave
Hidden 14/May/10 Lead
verticon 11/May/10 Lead O/S
with Scott Titt
Hidden 11/May/10 2nd
Luuuuuke 18/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Billy
freakeystyley34 08/Apr/10 2nd O/S
with Dan
Hidden ??/2010 -
jominator 12/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with wu
Ben Harper 02/May/09 Lead O/S
with John Brown
TiffTiff 02/May/09 AltLd O/S
with Steve M
Hidden ?/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Dr Caterpillar 25/Oct/08 AltLd O/S

led p1, not sure what we did for the top one

with Howard
jfreeman 07/Jun/08 AltLd rpt
simonr 07/Jun/08 AltLd
Bob M 28/May/08 2nd
Rob Kennard 28/Aug/07 -
with Jon Biddle, Jon Howell
Neil Adams 06/May/07 2nd O/S
with Tim from BUMC
Dan_Carroll 09/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Rebecca Holland
Beck Holland 09/Apr/07 2nd O/S
timharrison 25/Aug/06 2nd O/S
with Matt Burrows
Lev 04/Mar/06 Lead O/S
with Jamie
Hidden ??/2006 Lead O/S
timharrison ?/Sep/05 Lead O/S
Ashley Hold 03/Sep/04 Lead
with Laurence North
Samuel P 11/Jan/03 2nd
with Luke
lost.arrow 06/May/02 -
jfletcher 28/Apr/01 Lead
andybenham ??/2001 2nd O/S
Roget 16/Sep/00 AltLd O/S
with jon
crater 11/May/00 2nd
crater 10/May/00 2nd
lost.arrow 22/Apr/00 -
with Paul Palfreyman
stuart100 18/May/97 2nd O/S
with Ian Brown
lost.arrow 30/Mar/97 -
Hidden 29/Aug/95 2nd O/S
Martin Bennett 13/Apr/93 -
with MD
Hidden 15/Aug/91 Lead
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 19
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 18
Votes cast 15
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set