Left corner of Orthanc. Climb up left of flake into the coner then up to a block belay.

EdRedfearn 24/May/16 Lead O/S
DavidWilby 13/Mar/16 -

Foliage. Dirty. Crumbly. Pulled a chuck off the size of my head..

nathanjmasters 13/Mar/16 Lead
davebrox ??/2016 -
Phil Murray 20/Oct/15 Solo O/S

Huge block came loose at 2/3 height - to the left of the sapling. Had no choice but to lever it off from the security of the tree. Further choss was then removed. I finished on the front (the HS on the right), which has sound rock, & I would strongly avoid the direct finish of this route now - it's horrible - loose, & (currently dry) mud. The steep "smooth" crack below is still good, though. I was solo, so am quite relieved I'm OK.

Angrypenguin 03/Oct/15 Solo O/S
Matt_Ivory 28/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Gwell
Matthew Martin Wsm 29/Apr/15 Lead O/S

nice easy climb, felt a bit loose and hollow in places! :)

with dan page
gingerbex 24/Apr/15 Lead rpt
edjenkins 15/Mar/15 Lead
with Henrik GVDP, Sarah Tipuric
Noemi 15/Mar/15 Lead O/S

Fun but quite loose

with Megan Brown
Hidden 15/Mar/15 Lead
badgerjockey 07/Mar/15 2nd O/S

Loose bits. Careful with big belay block at the top it is now mostly detatched!!

with Pete
JonoDHawkins 04/Oct/14 Lead O/S

First lead in Bristol. Loose... (date approx.)

Faz86 05/Sep/14 2nd

lots of loose/ hollow rock. Felt precarious

edjenkins 05/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Aug/14 Lead
Hidden 24/Aug/14 Lead rpt
shaunleonard 24/Aug/14 2nd O/S
with Andy
AndyRogers 24/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Aug/14 2nd O/S
Bluebird 23/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Cracking sunny morning, good dry crag and nice sense of exposure at the top. Ab'd off rather than fighting through another ants nest

Hidden 31/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Jul/14 2nd O/S
Rob Morgan 05/Jul/14 Lead
Bcrich01 ?/Jul/14 Lead O/S
bpmclimb 19/Jun/14 Lead rpt
with Clare
Huntlyfiddler 19/Jun/14 2nd
lucyh 14/May/14 2nd

Decent down the gully in the dark was interesting!

with Neil Cox, Annabel Tall
Annabel Tall 14/May/14 -
with Neil Cox
jayyaj 13/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Mar/14 2nd O/S
George.Rowland 26/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Somewhat loose at the top, muddy in the middle and consistently vegetated.... not the most inspiring climb but not the worst.

with Chris Charles
laurence_falconer 26/Mar/14 Lead

Lead to retrieve gear from Gandalf. Needed gardening and felt awkward.

with Thom Jenkinson
cpoad 26/Mar/14 2nd rpt
with John S
Larey 19/Feb/14 Lead O/S
Rebs 21/Jan/14 Lead O/S
with Harry Bloxham
Mayaculpa 10/Jan/14 2nd
with Ben
Cheese Monkey 10/Jan/14 Lead O/S
with Mike
Hidden 06/Oct/13 2nd β
JulianB 06/Oct/13 Lead O/S

A gardening and landscaping exercise. Ivy, brambles, loose rock. Take a knife.

Stuart William 02/Jul/13 Solo rpt
gingerbex 02/May/13 2nd
Hidden 20/Apr/13 2nd O/S
BusyLizzie 09/Mar/13 2nd
with Jonny
Hidden 16/Dec/12 2nd
Hidden 16/Dec/12 Lead O/S
Chazwoz 20/Oct/12 Lead O/S
clams 20/Oct/12 2nd
with Chazwoz
LouiseP 14/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with Anne, Jonathan
Hidden 19/May/12 Lead O/S
davidclare 19/May/12 Solo O/S
cpoad 12/May/12 Lead rpt
with Matt P
cpoad 06/May/12 2nd rpt
with Richard W
Malpractise 28/Apr/12 -
Hidden 10/Apr/12 2nd
Hidden 10/Apr/12 Lead
Josh_West 24/Mar/12 2nd O/S
robbiek 24/Mar/12 Lead
with Josh West
zcsharp 03/Mar/12 2nd
stoneback 29/Jan/12 2nd O/S
with Dean
Deano100 29/Jan/12 Lead

Not an inspiring route, but a decent enough warm up. Abbing down gully is a faff

with Nick
laurence_falconer ??/2012 -
wurzelinzummerset 20/Nov/11 Lead
with Chris
Hidden 20/Nov/11 2nd O/S
robbraby 20/Nov/11 2nd
with Steveo
CurlyStevo ?/Nov/11 Lead

Reasonable start although a bit low on good gear passing one or two loose blocks that can be avoided. Once the crack / corner is reached the route becomes really quite good with very good and easily placed protection.

with Rob
catemuir 15/Oct/11 2nd
with Elena von Benzon
Katherine Ross 15/Oct/11 Lead O/S

A bit psyched out after backing off Saruman so this felt harder than it probably was. A bit loose and vegetated. Abbed back down Dain from the pinnacle at the top as the path looked a bit hairy!

with Clara Horswell
jack36987 15/Oct/11 2nd β
with Johnny Raines
catty_9 15/Oct/11 Lead O/S


maresia 29/Sep/11 2nd rpt
with Tim Sanders
Stuart William 04/Sep/11 Solo O/S
cpoad 13/Aug/11 Lead rpt
with John S
Hidden 10/Jul/11 2nd O/S
Shaky Dog 09/Jul/11 2nd O/S
with Andy
Pleb 03/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Loads of loose rock took the some of the fun out it.

Gregthebadger 22/May/11 Lead
matt_read 14/May/11 2nd O/S

nice warm up climb

richardadventurecafe 14/May/11 Lead O/S
with Matt Read
Ruth ND 05/May/11 2nd O/S
mikeydee135 05/May/11 Lead O/S
luke_judd ?/May/11 Lead
with Sarah Smith
Stanley 07/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Stanners 07/Apr/11 Lead O/S

you can pull the rope through from around the block, but definitly requires two people with maximum effort.

becoming-stranger 06/Apr/11 2nd O/S
with Josh West
Josh_West 06/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Apr/11 2nd β
jas128 03/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Quarryboy 20/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Neat little route, a tad lose in places so have to keep aware despite the easy climbing.

with Jack Treble
joeurwin 09/Mar/11 Lead rpt
with Jon Gibson, Neil Gay
Neil Gay 09/Mar/11 2nd O/S
with Jon Gibson, joeurwin
catemuir 29/Jan/11 Lead

A lot of very hollow-sounding rock and wobbly holds

with Alex Mortley
fletch73 ??/2011 -
HarryB 16/Oct/10 Lead
aipattison 16/Oct/10 2nd O/S
with UBMC
rorschach 14/Oct/10 Lead O/S

A very enjoyable climb - a little loose rock, but just took steady.

with Alistair Hood
mick1jones 09/Oct/10 2nd O/S

Dave led

with Carol Umarova, Dave Wilkinson
tobydunford 02/Oct/10 Solo O/S
Shonkhor 26/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Jim
cpoad 17/Jul/10 Lead rpt
with Clare F
zombie_pat 30/May/10 Lead O/S
with Paul, Nick
suffolknick 30/May/10 2nd O/S
with Rob Patterson, Paul
bpmclimb 24/May/10 2nd O/S
with Mark
nath_casper 23/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/May/10 2nd O/S
upontop 14/May/10 Lead O/S
with Chris
paulerussell 18/Apr/10 2nd O/S
with Chris Poad & The Stibbster
cpoad 18/Apr/10 2nd rpt
with Paul R, John S
andy dunn 17/Apr/10 Lead O/S

another loose one - still not that enjoyable

with Alan
Bonkers Dog 17/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Apr/10 Lead O/S
rig 11/Apr/10 2nd O/S
Ly-Cilph 11/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Thomas S
timofy 11/Apr/10 Lead
cpoad 11/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with John S
joeurwin 13/Mar/10 2nd O/S
with James Hunt
mutly 20/Sep/09 Lead O/S

Loose near the top.

with Richard H
Matt Bennett 23/Aug/09 2nd O/S

In Trainers

maresia 15/Jun/09 Lead rpt
with Yvonne
ecromwell ?/Jun/09 Lead
with Alison Cromwell
Feeling bold 05/Apr/09 2nd O/S

Si likes to add interest and started as for Saruman from the flake up and then moved left around to left corner face. Good interesting climb all the way.

tiga271 05/Apr/09 Lead

Whoops started on neighgoring HS - must read guide book

with maria
Tamlyn 25/Aug/08 2nd
with Dave Pearson
groovy_nut 28/Jun/08 2nd
with Dave
Hidden 24/Jun/08 2nd
Humpty Dangler 06/May/08 Lead O/S

First climb of the evening, as a warm up. Orthanc is a wonderful triangular outcrop, tapering to an atmospheric belay stance on top of the point. This route follows the left extreme edge, and suffers from loose rock almost everywhere. The rest of the outcrop suffers also to some extent but not as much as Dain. There are plenty of holds and the moves are not hard, but most of the time you are just looking for something stable enough to trust.

with Jay
Hidden 26/Apr/08 2nd O/S
babymoac 26/Apr/08 2nd
Hidden 26/Apr/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Feb/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Feb/08 2nd O/S
KarlH 23/Oct/07 Lead O/S
with Vicky J
CarolineH 16/Sep/07 2nd
Shezzer 03/Aug/07 Lead β
with Simon Brown
gfoster 31/Jul/07 -
with Tim Holloway
jh5638 28/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Neil Ferguson
Hidden 18/Apr/07 Lead
Hidden 31/Mar/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Mar/07 2nd
Hewey 10/Mar/07 Lead O/S
with Sally
Protheroe 03/Feb/07 Lead
with Douglas Hamilton
a_d_tru 21/Jan/07 Lead
with Carol
Digger 28/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with Cathy
dpmUK 28/Jun/06 2nd rpt
with Jayne
ericinbristol ?/Jun/06 Lead O/S
rotsoscooper 28/May/06 2nd O/S
with Karen
Hidden 14/May/06 2nd
Jethro ?/May/06 Solo
Hidden 28/Apr/06 Lead
dpmUK 13/Apr/06 Lead rpt
with Dunks
Hidden 06/Apr/06 Lead O/S
maresia 01/Apr/06 Lead O/S

Big rocks or cams all the way, no other nuts used. Easy climb followed by a novice in very slippy shoes!

Salsicha 01/Apr/06 2nd O/S

My first ever climb...whilst wearing trainers in the pouring rain!

dpmUK 09/Sep/05 Lead O/S
Jen79 ?/Jul/05 2nd
with Emma Simpson
sammoore ?/May/03 Lead O/S
with Russ Tong
jmr ??/1997 Lead
jim_randell 24/Jul/92 Lead O/S

Unseconded. A large block fell from the route while I was climbing. I continued and abseiled from a tree.

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Votes cast 21
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