UKC

750m.

Rockfax Description
A fantastic via ferrata that is the classic of the area and extremely popular. During peak season it is worth getting on the wire very early or waiting until the afternoon if you want to avoid the crowds. The rock is good and the climbing varied. The hardest bit comes towards the end, before the spectacular bridge crossing between Torre Exner and the Mur de Pisciadù.
Approach - The large Tridentina car park, situated three quarters of the way up the Gardena Pass (SS243 ) on the Corvara side, is used to access Brigata Tridentina. From the top of the Gardena Pass descend eastwards 2km, to the 6th hairpin bend where there is a large car park on the right, easily identifiable by the white C.A.I sign. It is possible to catch a bus from either Corvara or Colfosco to the starting car park (times and frequency vary depending on the time of season).
Looking downhill (east) towards Colfosco and Corvara, head to the bottom right-hand side of the car park. Take the upper right of the two paths following signs for the 'Pisciadù via ferrata/klettersteig'. After 15m, a second sign confirms you are on the right path for the 'Pisciadù via ferrata'. Continue following the path through scrub for 10 minutes, passing the Tridentina sport crag, until you reach the start of the wire on your right.
VF - Follow the wire, passing many stemples up the slab for some 100m to its end - this short section suffers from seepage and is usually damp. At the top of the wire, follow the well-signed track to the left, passing between two large boulders. After 5 minutes you join path 29 which you follow with good signing to a second path junction. Turn right off path 29 following signs towards the via ferrata. After 10 minutes you will see the start of the route proper with the wire leading up to the right of a large and very scenic waterfall. Upward progress is now usually dictated by the amount of traffic on the route. Regardless of this the rock and climbing are excellent on large, well sculpted handholds. After roughly an hour and a half (much less if you're lucky enough to have the route to yourself) the wire traverses into a large scree bowl at the head of a hanging valley. Here a possible escape route leads left on a marked path up to 'Rifugio Cavazza al Pisciadù'. Take care accessing the start of the path if you choose to take it.
To continue the route, keep following the wire which now begins to get steeper and more difficult. Pass some more stemples, followed by an airy ladder, and finally the suspension bridge where the route ends. A 20 minute walk on the only available path brings you to Rifugio Cavazza al Pisciadù and a well earned rest.
Descent - From Rifugio Cavazza al Pisciadù, the most direct descent follows the well-marked path 666 west for 10 minutes before turning north and descending the Val Setus. The initial descent from the plateau into the Val Setus is protected by a wire and can hold snow late into the season. Follow path 666 which becomes the 666a back to Tridentina car park.
Alternatively, for a longer but quieter descent (or if you took the bus from Corvara to the starting car park), it is possible to head east from Rifugio Pisciadù on the 676 and drop into the Val Mesdi, joining the 651. Follow path 651 to the valley floor where you join a large track. Turn left to head back to the car park contouring under the rock faces or turn right to continue on the 651 which brings you to Corvara. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
of ascent, 400m of VF. Probably the most popular VF in the region, it's possible to climb the entire route on the rock - apart from the spectacular bridge at the finish, obviously


ClimberDateStyle
betathief 19/Oct/17 -
youwillfindjimbo 06/Oct/17 -
with Danny G
mop449 06/Oct/17 -

Amazing fun! First ever via ferrata. Car to car in almost exactly 5 hours.

with Jimbo
funkyvin1 20/Sep/17 Lead O/S

Some Ice and hard snow but pretty straightforward so didn't cause any problems.

Hidden 13/Sep/17 Solo O/S
dpiddock 13/Sep/17 Solo O/S

Day after snow fall. Route was clean but made for some interest at the top. Took the long route down

MariaT 13/Sep/17 Solo O/S

Snowy descent afterwards.

five 05/Sep/17 AltLd O/S

Stuck between large groups crowding 5 to each wire section, with the ones behind acting like BMW drivers in the fast lane. So stopping for lunch at the easy exit path was a smart idea - half an hour later traffic was lighter and a lot saner, allowing the exciting top section and bridge to be properly enjoyed. Also path 666 down is a great route for the rock scenery...

with ALA
Tim Rodgers 30/Aug/17 -
alastairbegley 28/Aug/17 -
gingerbex 28/Aug/17 Solo O/S
justaddpowder 21/Aug/17 AltLd
mcneilljamie 21/Aug/17 Lead O/S
wheelsucker 09/Aug/17 Lead O/S
lynx0907 09/Aug/17 Lead O/S
with GG
Hidden ?/Aug/17 -
Hidden 29/Jul/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Jul/17 -
benrhyd 28/Jul/17 -

Brilliant via ferrata, did it in the afternoon, on the first day after doing sass rigais in the morning and had the whole route to ourselves

with Adam Haynes
mikecollins 27/Jul/17 -
Hidden 27/Jul/17 Lead O/S
Lauradavies23 27/Jul/17 -
danJBA 23/Jul/17 Solo
Andyjharper 19/Jul/17 Solo
with Iza
robertcollier 15/Jul/17 -

First VF, shorter and easier than expected. Saturday in early July - did have some traffic. Good fun with a restaurant at the top.

with Emily Collier
Hidden 03/Jul/17 -
cdpuk 27/Jun/17 -

3h on route and 6.5h car to car. Had the route to ourselves. Suffered a small rain shower but nothing too bad. Enjoyed a drink in the hut at the top. Descent gully very long and tedious but clear of snow. Path 666A not obvious until you're on it and see the painted markers; just bear right a little as the gully widens and you reach an unmarked split in the path.

Ben Harper 20/Jun/17 -
marcb 19/Jun/17 -
Hidden 19/Jun/17 -
Woodiee 11/Jun/17 Lead O/S
with Ailsa Leslie, Jim Stanton
Hidden 04/Oct/16 2nd
steveleahy 04/Oct/16 Lead O/S
with Bec
howsthebeef 22/Sep/16 -
with M. Moore, T. Nixon, T. Robinson
Oujmik 20/Sep/16 -

Great route, interesting situations. Gets a bit tedious in the middle but then hits your with some strenuous stuff on the upper section. Did the longer descent down via Val Mezdi - a nice route with not too much loose stuff but seemed to go on a lot longer than the map would suggest.

with Jyoti
mes32 16/Sep/16 -
Hidden 16/Sep/16 -
joeydurkin 07/Sep/16 -
with Jen
davelongbottom 02/Sep/16 -
with Cathy
TommyKips 31/Aug/16 -
mikelaing 29/Aug/16 -
with Wormy and Hovis
Steph Mitchell 26/Aug/16 -
David Stevens 26/Aug/16 -
tasp05 25/Aug/16 -
with Stu Fletcher, Dave Garrity, Willie Innes
mikehenesy 25/Aug/16 -
with Willy
Buccaneerbilly 25/Aug/16 -
Alex Riley 13/Aug/16 -
with Tyee, Anna Riley
tobyk 12/Aug/16 -
with Emma Akam
Neil Williams 04/Aug/16 -

Excellent route throughout, exactly as good as the guidebook says. Flows nicely, well protected, restaurant at the top!

with Rowan, Emma, Austen, Pip, Nick, Tom D, Smeagol
nick244 04/Aug/16 -

Brilliant Via Ferrata, it's clear why it's so busy. Made more exciting by a guide from a group below trying to climb past and nearly depositing a boulder on the heads of me and Josh

with Pip, Rowan, Neil Williams, Smeagol
j.kirby 04/Aug/16 -
with nick244
Charlie Zephyr Booth ?/Aug/16 -

first vf in dolomiti! loved it! safe! well sign posted! 1.5 hrs to top 1 hr back down amazing views

Hidden 28/Jul/16 -
Hidden 24/Jul/16 Solo
gateaublaster 22/Jul/16 -

Perfect dry ascent, battered by hailstone's after leaving Refugio, made it down seconds before very heavy rain.

Hidden 20/Jul/16 -
ashsleight 18/Jul/16 Lead

Lead 4 Army up.

rgd1977 15/Jul/16 -

First VF, climbed the rock and only used the wire for protection, as is the whole point right?! Very busy but good fun in a fantastic setting. The descent was a bit tedious and seemed to go on forever tho.

Celia Watson 11/Jul/16 -
Hidden 11/Jul/16 -
ned_85 09/Jul/16 Solo
Hidden 09/Jul/16 -
fuddam 08/Jul/16 Solo O/S

Perfect weather, a few people, hardly crowded in morning sunshine. Stuck to the rock mostly, until near the end. Descended route 666 and managed to fit in some scree running - much fun!

Alessandro Tentori 06/Jul/16 -
james.slater 30/Jun/16 -
Hidden 24/Jun/16 -
Phil Anderson ??/2016 -

Climbed it, then down-climbed the whole thing as the descent gullies were impassable with snow.

Hidden 22/Sep/15 AltLd
David Walker 21/Sep/15 Solo O/S

Great route, lovely rock, lovely weather

with Maria
Hidden 01/Sep/15 Lead O/S
farmus21 31/Aug/15 Solo

Nice! Long, safe and spectacular but busy, even on a Monday morning. Good alternative to the Alta Via 2 Route to Pisciadu Hut.

Hidden 30/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Aug/15 Lead
Hidden 30/Aug/15 Lead
PPP 30/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Brian
JamesRich 26/Aug/15 Solo O/S
with Karen Rich, Howard Rich, Paul Rich
Tim Harper 09/Aug/15 Solo O/S
Hidden 07/Aug/15 Solo
petern 07/Aug/15 -
john. e.r 15/Jul/15 Lead
Jim Malo 14/Jul/15 -
with Mark
Hidden 14/Jul/15 Lead
NatCheeseman 14/Jul/15 -
with tobra
Hidden 13/Jul/15 -
Hidden 07/Jul/15 -
Dirty Knees 07/Jul/15 -
Hidden 05/Jul/15 Solo
trish1968 05/Jul/15 Solo
Penygraig ?/Jul/15 -
with Gwyn4
Hidden ?/Jul/15 -
Hidden 27/Jun/15 Solo O/S
Hidden 17/Jun/15 Solo
embob 17/Jun/15 Solo

First VF - great fun and very lucky to pretty much have it to ourselves. Climbed most of it on the rock apart from the first (wet) section. Descended via 676 to extend the day.

with Alex, Pa
timmyhobby 10/Jun/15 -
purplemushroom 22/Sep/14 -
LauraChilterns 22/Sep/14 -
eve29 07/Sep/14 -
with Andy
centurion05 07/Sep/14 -
with Yvonne
shelbymcb ?/Sep/14 -
with mike
LittleRob 22/Aug/14 -
maxsmith 11/Aug/14 -

Amazing route even though it was ridiculously busy despite early start. No need to pull on cables...

dhavenhand 29/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Jul/14 -
jussiupn 19/Jul/14 -

Nice weather, started quite late morning and it was huge queues. We climbed in the queues all time. Nice views and easy access. No wonder it is so popular

with Panu Markkanen, Rauno Hakanen, Junde
Fiona Reid 15/Jul/14 -

First half and bridge only as went up Torre Exner. Still a fair bit of snow on path 666.

with Mike
Mike-W-99 15/Jul/14 -
with Fiona
TomGB 13/Jul/14 -

Great VF, on rock all the way. Nice refugio at the end, we took the long way down path 679 (I think)

with Stewart Moody, Adam Butler
Hidden 12/Jul/14 Solo O/S
katiep 12/Jul/14 -

Lovely route, started at 7am to avoid the crowds. Still lots of snow on the long way down

with Callan
vix 10/Jul/14 -

No queues, great day to do it. Lots of snow at the top

with Lorna
wjcdean 10/Jul/14 -

Used cable up to the end of the first section then rock only after that. Got there early so wasn't too busy. Decent down route 666 gully which wad good fun.

BStar 10/Jul/14 -

Didn't pull on the cable at all, quite a fun climb (including stemples and pegs). One of my favourite VFs in the area.

Trevers 10/Jul/14 -

Fun VF, fun descent down snowy 666 gully

Hidden ?/Jul/14 -
GilesR ?/Jul/14 Solo

Went up alone on a slightly rainy day. Only one other person en route.

anaesthetic 26/Jun/14 -

Awesome via ferrata ascent. Gnarly descent on route 666, lots of cable under snow.

with Dave
IamAJMiller 26/Sep/13 Lead O/S

A great route and we got a clean run being at the end of the season. Coffee at the top, brilliant!

with rch3l
Hidden 22/Sep/13 -
Hidden 19/Sep/13 -
Becks87 18/Sep/13 Solo O/S
with Powsers
p.j.deacon 12/Sep/13 Solo rpt

Having climbed this route before at night, during the day I decided to solo the route whilst taking a friend up it. Made it flow & much more enjoyable. Not ideal at the hard top section when it began to snow!!!

Whitty2012 12/Sep/13 AltLd
Hidden 12/Sep/13 AltLd
Hidden 06/Sep/13 -
p.j.deacon 18/Aug/13 Lead O/S

A night accent during a full moon........beer on the famous bridge made the climb worth while.

Hidden 14/Aug/13 -
Hidden 14/Aug/13 -
Hidden 08/Aug/13 -
ClareHowes90 08/Aug/13 -
vikx85 23/Jul/13 -
Hidden 22/Jul/13 -
bridget143 20/Jul/13 -
with Simen
simonvm ?/Jul/13 -
Ade7 18/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Snow on the summit and decent, had to reverse the top 2/3 of the route.

with Sam C
Hidden 18/Jun/13 AltLd
Hidden 20/Dec/12 Solo dnf
Pompey 26/Sep/12 -
with JP
JonnoP 26/Sep/12 -

Very wet day with some parts akin to climbing a waterfall

chri55ie 05/Sep/12 -
mike_hough_uk 05/Sep/12 -

the descent down Val Metzi is excellent

Monkey_Alan 05/Sep/12 -
with Simon Blanchflower
lucyh 03/Sep/12 -

Like the M25!

colinthrelfall 03/Sep/12 -
with Martin, Stewart, Gordon, Neal, Ian Jeffrey
katherinesydney 30/Aug/12 -

A lot of fun singing and being silly. Beer at the top. Storm when we got down: good job we didn't climb! The VF is easy, busy and pretty polished but worthwhile. 2 hours despite congestion; came down route 666, 1hr 30.

with sven & florian, mike kann
Hidden 19/Aug/12 Solo O/S
Hidden 12/Aug/12 -
zoeimogen 07/Aug/12 -

A good VF and busy, but still possible in 5 hours even with the queues.

Hidden 01/Aug/12 Lead
Hidden 31/Jul/12 -
Pete Pozman 24/Jul/12 -
with John Byrne, Pete Crosby
Melanie Parkin 18/Jul/12 2nd
Hidden 18/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Jul/12 Solo rpt
BeckyS ?/Jul/12 Solo O/S
danieleaston ?/Jul/12 -
Hidden 29/Jun/12 -
phillipjohnson 27/Jun/12 -
Matt Schwarz 27/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

flew round in 4 hrs!

stev1e.wilso 05/Jun/12 Solo O/S
Tightsgirl ?/Jun/12 -
Chuck 10/Sep/11 -
with Carrie Craig
JulianD 06/Sep/11 Solo

classic day out in the sun

with Paul B, David H
Willbert 27/Aug/11 -

Boring first bit, then the second part got much more interesting - possibly due to a lot of mist that made for quite a spooky atmosphere especially shortly before the ladder and while at the bridge. Amazing views on the way down (Also found a little, icy cave on the way back)

daniel heaton 16/Aug/11 2nd
with Dad
AndrewHeaton 16/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Amber, Alice, Daniel
syv_k 01/Aug/11 -
sarahlizzy 01/Aug/11 -

Quite tame, but very pretty and a good fun route. Lots of people, even starting quite early on a weekday - lower section involved a lot of queueing behind people who didn't really know what they were doing, but they seemed to mostly be filtered out by the upper pitches. The popularity of this route is showing - the rock is very polished and the protection is in a pretty poor state at present, with duct tape(!) covering frayed bits and loose pegs. Could do with recabling.

with Syv
ed edwards ?/Aug/11 -
ClareSenny ?/Aug/11 -
Mike-W-99 16/Jul/11 -

Great route and spectacular walk out on path 676. Shame about the crowds and folk out of their depth.

with Fiona
Fiona Reid 16/Jul/11 -

Lovely route, but get there early or be prepared for a lot of queuing as this route is silly busy in summer/weekends.

with Mike
Hidden 12/Jul/11 -
Headjamm 09/Jul/11 -
with Geoffers
Geoffers 08/Jul/11 -
with Lauren
Hidden 04/Jul/11 Solo O/S
Hidden 23/Jun/11 Lead O/S
rch3l ?/Jun/11 Solo
Griff87 ?/Jun/11 -
Hidden ?/Sep/10 -
davidk 31/Aug/10 Solo
with alison
alisonk 31/Aug/10 Solo
with Dave
Rampikino 23/Aug/10 Solo

Very long. Busy.

with Cat
stevelismore 12/Aug/10 Solo
with James L
Hidden 12/Aug/10 Solo
seanyt ?/Aug/10 Solo
Doby 28/Jul/10 -

Only did first bit, first via ferrata. Good fun

with Josie, Elsie
Elsier 28/Jul/10 Solo

1st part only, just to introduce my friends to Via Ferrata

with Jo, Josie
Hidden 13/Jul/10 -
yelotango ?/Jul/10 Solo

guided

Hidden 25/May/10 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
Theeni ??/2010 Lead O/S
mick grim ??/2010 -
Hidden 15/Sep/09 -
Hidden 06/Sep/09 -
Hidden 24/Aug/09 Solo O/S
cas smerdon 16/Aug/09 -
sam coward 11/Aug/09 -
with Helen
johnmctighe ?/Jul/09 -
with Steve, Austin
Dunx ?/Jul/09 -
mcrtchly ?/Jun/09 -
Hidden 25/May/09 -
Hidden ??/2009 -
PaulHermes 20/Sep/08 Solo
with Martin VCCC
Hidden 20/Sep/08 -
Hidden 10/Sep/08 -
Hidden 11/Aug/08 -
CathS 30/Jun/08 Lead O/S

An amazing route - it goes on forever! The top section is very steep and sustained. We were lucky to avoid any queueing so managed quite a fast ascent.

jcj ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
guy stabler ??/2008 -
Allan Young 08/Sep/07 Solo O/S
with Steve Graham, Jim Murray
Becky E 05/Sep/07 -

In the snow! Only 12 people on the route rather than the usual queues. 3rd time.

with Martin and Kenny
JulianD 30/Jul/07 Solo
with Ann
Hidden 13/Jul/07 -
brianrunner 04/Jul/07 Solo

great classic vf. our 2nd time. its very busy though. the trick is to go late- maybe after 2pm , making sure there are no storms on the way. we continued on a great 10hr day on the av2 to ref boe, then up piz boe, then back down with a 2-3 other smaller vfs thrown in.

with martina
Mike Caine ?/Jul/07 -
with Dave Nugent, Blackler Bros, Martin
johnjb 16/Sep/06 Solo β

Carried on to summit of Cap Pisciadu

with Tony B, Kieran B
Graham Iles 08/Sep/06 -
with Jo
Chris the Tall 29/Aug/06 -

Ascent in 3 hours

with Liz and assorted minions
IggyLiz 29/Aug/06 -
with Chris, Alan, Alice, Daz & India
murray ?/Aug/06 2nd
Hidden ?/Aug/06 Lead O/S
Stuart Macfarlane 22/Jul/06 -
with Andy W
Martin Bennett 17/Jul/06 -
with Tony Mitchell, AlanB, John Stockton, Magi
runwildjohn 14/Jul/06 -
Hidden 08/Jul/06 -
Hidden ?/Jul/06 Solo O/S
MikeDowsett 26/Jun/06 Solo
with Kris Scheinkonig
andrewbooth1000 10/Jul/05 Lead O/S
with Keira
Toerag 06/Jul/05 -

Mega-busy, over 100 'climbers' on the route! At least the slow rate of ascent meant we had time to climb on the rock and enjoy the fantastic holds.

with Alison Brooks, Matt Brooks, Samantha Woolcombe
trincee ?/Jul/05 -
Swirly ?/Jul/05 -
with Rich
Hidden ?/Jun/05 AltLd
Hidden ??/2005 Solo
IggyLiz ?/Sep/04 -
with Chris
texuspete 02/Aug/04 -
buxtoncoffeelover ?/Aug/04 Solo
johnjb 16/Jul/04 Solo O/S
with Kieran B
Becky E ?/Jul/04 -

2nd time.

with various
Jonny M ?/Jul/04 2nd O/S
with James Pearson
Hidden ?/Jun/04 -
Chris the Tall 25/Aug/03 -
with Liz
Hidden 28/Jul/03 -
Becky E ?/Jul/03 -

My first VF, and loved it! This is what got me into climbing.

with various
Hidden ?/Jun/03 -
Big Lee 10/Jul/02 Solo O/S
crossdressingrodney 04/Jul/02 Lead O/S
victim of mathematics 04/Jul/02 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Jun/02 -
Hidden 27/Jul/00 -
7 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High VF3C
Mid VF3C
Low VF3C
High VF3A
Mid VF3A
Low VF3A
High VF3B
Mid VF3B
Low VF3B
Votes cast 27
Votes cast 29
Style of ascent
Soloed
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set