Rockfax Description
An exciting and slightly bold headwall is the main attraction of this pitch. The top pitch can be gained easily by abseil if the tides are not favourable. Start on sea-level ledges below the main buttress.
1) 4c, 16m. Traverse left and climb a crack in a slab to a ledge and belay below the steep headwall.
2) 5c, 18m. Climb up the headwall to a horizontal break and move right. Boldly climb the wall above to better holds and protection before finishing up a short lichen-covered wall. © Rockfax

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, Great Wall Climbs of the UK, Ultimate E4 ticklist.

Rory Bascombe 06/Sep/17 2nd O/S
with Tom Newberry
dready 06/Aug/17 TR

it's hard to say if I did dawn direct or the normal route I went direct to the top from the undercuts and not to the left as the guide says. I would like to try on lead good pro I thought.

with shunt
recklessrob 15/May/17 TR dog
with MC
philhilo 15/Oct/15 2nd dog

Pumpfest. Came off getting to undercuts. Then looooong reach to top.

benkelsey 15/Oct/15 Lead dog

No chalk to follow meant a lot of faff. Took the fall from the dirty undercuts after giving it everything. Last move is very reachy, annoying having done the bold 5c moves lower down.

Hidden 04/Sep/15 Lead O/S
AlexD 31/Jul/15 2nd
with Ed
Ed Babs 31/Jul/15 Lead G/U

Fell off the lichen covered top wall, pulled the ropes and finished on the right next time.

with AlexD
pete johnson 21/Jul/15 2nd rpt

Line in new Littlejohn select guide is Dawn Direct (E5).

Hidden 21/Jul/15 Lead O/S
ferdia 04/Jul/15 2nd
Misha 04/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Not particularly bold if you take offsets and lots of cams but the moves at the top are quite hard, getting to the undercuts in the last break and moving off them with a long move for the top took some thinking. No chalk so not entirely obvious exactly whic way to go, always better that way! Hard E3 - not bold or puppy enough for E4. Abbed into the ledge as the tide had come in.

with Ferdia
Hidden 16/Oct/14 TR
manbat 16/Oct/14 TR O/S

Only did top half of route due to tides/swell, but didn't find a move harder than 4c. Looked like there was adequate gear, too.

eel 12/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Ted
kingholmesy ??/2014 Lead O/S

Just made it!

with Colin
Ed Booth 16/May/13 Lead O/S
with PJ ( Belgium)
morganator 15/May/13 Lead

Bad gear, good climbing. Reminiscent of North Stack Wall

with International Meet Guest
Justin T 04/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Cherry
Hidden 04/Jul/11 2nd
gg4419 ?/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Lead Pitch 1

Rowansb 11/Jul/10 TR O/S
with Mr Shunt
Hidden 26/May/09 Lead O/S
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
Mark Kemball 26/Oct/03 2nd
with Nic Dill
jfletcher 06/May/01 Lead
with Tom Wells
Tim M ??/2000 2nd
Steve Crowe 19/Jul/99 Lead O/S
with KM
Hidden 15/Jun/99 AltLd O/S
Hidden 31/Mar/95 TR
Al Evans ??/1995 -
mattnuttall 25/Jul/94 Lead O/S
with Alan Holden
Simon cook ?/Sep/87 -

With Steve Bell

Steve Bell ??/1986 -
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High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
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High 6a
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High 5c
Mid 5c
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High 5b
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Votes cast 6
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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Ground Up
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