Rockfax Description
The long rising traverse of the Great Buttress is a very sustained, high quality climb. Start as for DDT.
1) 5c, 30m. Follow the first pitch of DDT for 10m then traverse right to meet Tumbleweed Connection at its small roof. Follow Tumbleweed Connection to the belay at the top of its first pitch.
2) 5c, 30m. Move down and then traverse right under a small overhang until a move up allows more moves rightwards to and up a rampline (shared with Footless Crow). At its end, head down right to a wall/slab on Bitter Oasis and climb this to a stance.
3) 5c, 20m. Move up left as for Bitter Oasis and then right to a flake-crack. Climb the flake-crack past a bulge to a corner. Follow the corner and wall above it to the top. © Rockfax
Ticklists
Arc'teryx Lakeland Revival 2017 , Borrowdale FRCC Guide 'Top Fives' , Turbo-Punter's Tradification , Three star lakes E3s , Extreme Girdle , FRCC Borrowdale guide 2016 graded list
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Misha | 12 May |
Show βeta
βeta: Pretty sure P1 traverses just past the open groove (which looks at least 6a) to reach a crack / groovelet just left of the arête. The Wired and RF show the line going up the open groove. The peg mentioned in the Wired is long gone (apparently not? must be lower down). P2 is bold in places. An ok purple totem and passable green dragonfly protect the balancey moves onto the hanging ramp. A black totem is the next piece of gear. The top pitch starts up just right of Bitter Oasis and goes up to a questionable flake and then better holds. This is bold. It’s also possible to start directly above the belay, just left of the arête overlooking the gully (this is Midsummer at the Oasis). There is small gear below the overlap and a good green cam in the sidewall of the gully. The peg in the slim groove / flake is poor and hard to clip. Rather than going direct as for Midsummer at the Oasis, step left to a good undercut and a green cam, with a jug up and left, as well as another green cam (the one below can be easily retrieved). This is where you get to by following the actual line. Another jug up and left, then move right to good holds and up the open corner. The vegetated top out is thought provoking. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: Pretty sure P1 traverses just past the open groove (which looks at least 6a) to reach a crack / groovelet just left of the arête. The Wired and RF show the line going up the open groove. The peg mentioned in the Wired is long gone (apparently not? must be lower down). P2 is bold in places. An ok purple totem and passable green dragonfly protect the balancey moves onto the hanging ramp. A black totem is the next piece of gear. The top pitch starts up just right of Bitter Oasis and goes up to a questionable flake and then better holds. This is bold. It’s also possible to start directly above the belay, just left of the arête overlooking the gully (this is Midsummer at the Oasis). There is small gear below the overlap and a good green cam in the sidewall of the gully. The peg in the slim groove / flake is poor and hard to clip. Rather than going direct as for Midsummer at the Oasis, step left to a good undercut and a green cam, with a jug up and left, as well as another green cam (the one below can be easily retrieved). This is where you get to by following the actual line. Another jug up and left, then move right to good holds and up the open corner. The vegetated top out is thought provoking. |
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| Pagan | 11 May |
Show βeta
βeta: The peg on pitch one is the Tumbleweed Connection peg, it is very much still there. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The peg on pitch one is the Tumbleweed Connection peg, it is very much still there. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Goat Crag, Borrowdale
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Sylvester
Grade: E3 5c ***
(Kern Knotts)