Rockfax Description
The original hard free climb on the right side of Great Buttress is a major undertaking with both technical and serious passages. Start by scrambling to a ledge about 8m up on the right of the buttress.
1) 5c, 28m. From the tree on the left of the ledge go up left and then right to a groove with difficulty. Follow the fingery groove to a bulge and move over it on to the wall/slab above. Climb rightwards to a stance and belay.
2) 5c, 25m. A bold pitch. Head up leftwards and then make a thin traverse left to reach a conspicuous downward-pointing spike on the edge of the wall. Move left around the edge and up a groove to a wall that is climbed on good finger-holds to easier ground and the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Was E3, but is now missing a peg, making this a true heart stopper.
Extreme Rock , Kendal Wall's Best 100 climbs in Britain , Fast & Free: Pete Livesay's Top 30 British Classics , Ultimate E4 ticklist , Lakeland's Greatest Pioneers , Borrowdale FRCC Guide 'Top Fives' , Nuts of Legends , Turbo-Punter's Tradification , Three star lakes E4s , FRCC Borrowdale guide 2016 graded list , Lakes Extreme Rock , Extreme Rock II
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Ren Hill | 19 May |
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βeta: The microwave sized block above the peg at the top of the groove on P1 moved when I tugged on a cam behind it. It might be keyed in but probably best to be cautious | βeta? | |
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βeta: The microwave sized block above the peg at the top of the groove on P1 moved when I tugged on a cam behind it. It might be keyed in but probably best to be cautious |
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Misha | 12 May |
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βeta: Take a black tricam and a skyhook for P2. There are a couple of slightly larger tricams on P1 but not essential. | ||
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βeta: Take a black tricam and a skyhook for P2. There are a couple of slightly larger tricams on P1 but not essential. |
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pjor | 25 May, 2019 |
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βeta: Amazing route that needs more traffic. Doesn't look like it's had an ascent for a while. | ||
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βeta: Amazing route that needs more traffic. Doesn't look like it's had an ascent for a while. |
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Grade: E4 6b ***
(Great End Crag)