80m, 3 pitches.
'Right Route', pitches: n4+, n5+, n4+
UK grades HVS 4b/c, 5a, 4b
1. 4b/c, 30 m. Starting behind a block sitting on the slab at the base of the wall, delicately step up and to the right on to a small slab (crux), then pull up over a vertically cracked block. Move easily up and rightwards until you come to the left edge of a sloping ledge. Traverse the ledge to a good belay stance on its right end, in a cracked wall beneath a large open-door corner, capped by a big roof.
2. 5a, 10 m. Climb the cracked wall to the roof. Generous protection and big hand holds will reassure you while making strong athletic moves out to its right, pulling up and over (crux) to reach a wide shelf stance.
3. 4b/c, 40 m. Climb the curving crack at the back of the shelf and follow directly up to a huge ledge. Turn up a left-trending ramp and then reach directly up a steep crack (crux), which continues up a line of weakness on perfectly rough rock with terrific exposure. Belay from any of the final shelves as soon the rope drag is too much.
A variation route for pitch 2 ('Grønt Gras', n6-) goes up the centre of the large corner to the roof and moves left, laybacking the wide crack to the left of the roof then moving right over it to the same belay stance.
UK grades HVS 4b/c, 5a, 4b
1. 4b/c, 30 m. Starting behind a block sitting on the slab at the base of the wall, delicately step up and to the right on to a small slab (crux), then pull up over a vertically cracked block. Move easily up and rightwards until you come to the left edge of a sloping ledge. Traverse the ledge to a good belay stance on its right end, in a cracked wall beneath a large open-door corner, capped by a big roof.
2. 5a, 10 m. Climb the cracked wall to the roof. Generous protection and big hand holds will reassure you while making strong athletic moves out to its right, pulling up and over (crux) to reach a wide shelf stance.
3. 4b/c, 40 m. Climb the curving crack at the back of the shelf and follow directly up to a huge ledge. Turn up a left-trending ramp and then reach directly up a steep crack (crux), which continues up a line of weakness on perfectly rough rock with terrific exposure. Belay from any of the final shelves as soon the rope drag is too much.
A variation route for pitch 2 ('Grønt Gras', n6-) goes up the centre of the large corner to the roof and moves left, laybacking the wide crack to the left of the roof then moving right over it to the same belay stance.
J. B?nes and R. Kaarb? Jun/1967.
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Route of Interest
Englesvaet
Grade: n5+ ***
(Liafjell)