UKC

300m, 10 pitches. A sustained 10 pitch route (TD 6a+), which starts with the first 3 pitches of 'Patience Dans L'Azur' (5b, 5c, 5b). This eases you in, but could also give a false impression of the route. The following 7 pitches (5C, 5C, 5C, 6a+, 5C, 6a, 5C) are far more sustained and the bolts are far more run out. The route offers incredible long, sustained pitches of technical slab and wall climbing and takes an impressive line up the South West face of 'Deuxieme Tour' on Tete Noire.

Catherine, JM Cambon, Yves Ghesquires. 1991.

* This newly updated climb is waiting to be checked by the crag moderator.

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User Date Notes
Helen Gibson Hoey 18 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: The start is at Premiere Mesures, which is faintly marked in red at base. Apart from pitches 1 and 3 the climbing is sustained 6a/6a+ with some 6b moves. Pitches 4,5,6,7 provide excellent slab climbing. Pitch 8, not 5c!! and pitch 10 be careful of loose rock directly above belay. 2x50m ropes, keep right (facing in) of corner on 2nd ab, following the bolts of Patience dans l'azur.
Show beta
βeta: The start is at Premiere Mesures, which is faintly marked in red at base. Apart from pitches 1 and 3 the climbing is sustained 6a/6a+ with some 6b moves. Pitches 4,5,6,7 provide excellent slab climbing. Pitch 8, not 5c!! and pitch 10 be careful of loose rock directly above belay. 2x50m ropes, keep right (facing in) of corner on 2nd ab, following the bolts of Patience dans l'azur.

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Route of Interest
Rock des Boucs en Train

Grade: TD ***
(Roc Termier)

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