236m, 8 pitches. Notes:

It is worth taking an ice hammer, pegs and marquee stakes or similar ground anchors. Trainers or boots for the upper section. Gardening gloves are pretty much mandatory.

Approach:

Begin the approach approx 2 hours before low tide.

Walk to the beach at Heddon's Mouth, and cross the river. There is currently (Sep 2016) a bar of stones across the river so you don't need to get wet feet here. You may well do later though.

Ascend easy slabs at the far end of the beach (NOT the ones leading into the collapsing cliff), and either scramble or abseil down the corner to the right onto the beach below.

Cross the huge block of Highveer Point via easy slabs on the landward side.

Now you need to cross about 650m of "Bloody Beach". The Claw bounds the far end of the beach, and is immediately beyond the tall, thin, rectangular cut "Hannington's Cave".

1. Start on a large boulder. Take a leftward rising traverse on slabby footholds with a horizontal break above for hands and protection. Alternatively climb a steep corner to the right to a ledge and traverse left. Continue along the platform and step across to ledges on the main ridge. Belay below a steep crack.

2. Pull up a couple of steep moves on good holds, then step onto the crest. Follow the blocky ridge on good rock for about 40m until you reach a grassy ledge. Nut belay in friable rock. If you are wearing climbing shoes then change now.

3. Climb 25m or so of lichen covered rock to belay on a grassy ledge under a small outcrop.

4. Pass the outcrop to the left, then swim up brambles for 10m and belay on a yew tree.

5. Follow the steep, vegetated ridge to the right of the tree for about 25m. At this point you may choose either to continue up the ridge to a belay ahead (5a), or dive into the bramble filled gully described in the guidebook (5b) and try to find a tree belay.

6a-8a. Follow the ridge ahead, then keep going straight up. Approximately 150m of steep heather, bracken and scree awaits. No belays will be found but a bit of digging will get you to solid enough soil to place a ground anchor here and there. Pass the outcrops to the right. Tree belay on path.

6b. Climb up the corner behind the tree, then break out right and belay at the head of the gully (8m).

7b-8b. Head for the vague crest to the right of the gully, then climb up to find a belay at the square block 20m or so to the right of the outcrops described in (a).

9. It aint over! Keep wading until you hit the coast path.

Ticklists

The Ridges of England, Wales and Ireland

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Hidden 18 Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S
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