Rockfax Description
Move off a large flake and climb the wall to a thin flake/crack. Large flake reported to be loose. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Originally climbed with 1 peg and two bolts as an E1 but the old bolts were later removed. Now a fully bolted sport route.
**** DO NOT DO THIS ROUTE ****
Removed the very large flake and taped up the bottom bolts.
The large flake was only held on with the ivy route.
Re bolted by Bob Larkin Sept 2016.
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Swotson | 19 Sep, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Noticed the large flake had gone. Didn't see the UKC warning not to climb it. Bolts weren't taped up so I presume it's been checked. Anyway, it all seemed solid enough. Harder without the flake there to stand on (although obviously safer). It's 6a+ in Northern Rock, so I assumed this was the grade given after flake removal. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Noticed the large flake had gone. Didn't see the UKC warning not to climb it. Bolts weren't taped up so I presume it's been checked. Anyway, it all seemed solid enough. Harder without the flake there to stand on (although obviously safer). It's 6a+ in Northern Rock, so I assumed this was the grade given after flake removal. |
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Ian Carr | 20 Aug, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: DO NOT CLIMB THIS ROUTE. Large flake removed with ease. The only thing that was holding it in was the ivy routes. The first two bolts have been taped up. Needs to be recleaned and checking. Probably around 6b on the right. The flake would have killed someone :-( | ||
Show beta
βeta: DO NOT CLIMB THIS ROUTE. Large flake removed with ease. The only thing that was holding it in was the ivy routes. The first two bolts have been taped up. Needs to be recleaned and checking. Probably around 6b on the right. The flake would have killed someone :-( |
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Derek Furze | 27 Apr, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Steep and juggy, but the bottom third of the crack is completely detached and simply held in place by the ivy roots. Try standing on the jug at the top of this section as the whole piece of rock moves alarmingly Be very wary when belaying underneath this route - if the block were to depart, it would be very destructive indeed | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Steep and juggy, but the bottom third of the crack is completely detached and simply held in place by the ivy roots. Try standing on the jug at the top of this section as the whole piece of rock moves alarmingly Be very wary when belaying underneath this route - if the block were to depart, it would be very destructive indeed |
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roger whetton | 19 Jul, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Be careful around the 3rd bolt - the large flake which forms the left of the crack moves! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Be careful around the 3rd bolt - the large flake which forms the left of the crack moves! |
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Grade: 6a ***
(Attermire Scar)