Rockfax Description
II, 170m. A great route that provides a good alternative to Mort de Rire and is in the same class.
1) 5b, 35m. Climb a corner to a small roof. Climb round it on the left to a belay on a ledge.
2) 6a, 40m. Follow the rightward diagonal finger crack past a series of bolts.
3) 5a, 35m. Head up and right from the belay to gain a leftward ramp system. Follow this to a belay.
4) 5c, 30m. Keep following the ramp system that steepens. Belay on the arête at the junction with the South Ridge.
5) Climb the final two pitches of the South Ridge.
Descent - Abseil down the route. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
D+ 6a II. Possibly the best route on the Aiguille du Genepi (from Mont Blanc Granite guide). Descend s for Arete Sud di Genepi.
Francois Burnier Jul/1988.
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Grade: TD- 5c ***
(Aiguille de Blaitière)