400m, 11 pitches. Long, very cool sport route to the top of Goat Wall. Great location, generous bolting, very popular and a fun day out. Descend either by tedious abseiling, possible with a single 60m rope (keep an eye out for intermediate anchors) or by a car shuttle to the bumpy forest road at the top.

Although there are 5.9 cruxes on this climb, they are all very short and very well-protected. Overall, the route is extremely generous in its bolting.

Pitch 1: Begin at a small fir tree. Head up easy 5th-class ledges to a large ledge with a bolted anchor next to a large fir. (5.4)

Pitch 2: Steep face to an anchor. (5.8)

Shift the belay to below a left-facing dihedral.

Pitch 3: Up the dihedral. You will pass a rappel anchor. Continue up to the anchor on the ledge with the large blocks. (5.7)

Pitch 4: Climb the face above through three steep cruxes. Juggy pockets just where you want them keep the grade moderate. End in the Notch. (5.9-)

Pitch 5: Climb the straight-forward face above. Belay at a tree. (5.7)

Shift the belay to the large fir by the wall. The top of the gully is here. It is my understanding that you can descend the gully from here. It might be an unpleasant "pinball" experience down the scree. Beware loose rock from above.

Pitch 6: Climb a nicely exposed face with a slight left-to-right traverse. (5.8)

Pitch 7: This pitch begins with a bouldery crux off the ledge. There are a couple more bouldery moves on this fun pitch. (5.9-)

Shift the belay again to below the juggy slab. There is a large fir tree here showing scars from the frequent rockfall at this spot. Beware, especially if there are parties above you here.

Pitch 8: Climb the fun juggy slab to a semi-hanging anchor. (5.8)

Pitch 9: This pitch follows a short, exposed traverse to the right. (5.4)

Pitch 10: Traverse back to the left. You will reach a 2-bolt anchor. It might be preferable to continue up to the beginning of the next pitch and belay off of the first bolt. If you opt to belay off of the 2-bolt anchor, be sure to shift your belay before starting Pitch 11. (Easy 5th-, 4th-, and 3rd class)

Pitch 11: The money pitch. Begin by ascending a short leaning pillar. Stem over to the main wall, and thrutch up a somewhat awkward set of features. Beyond, the awkwardness eases, but the difficulty remains consistent. (5.9)

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
boman1882 17 Aug Lead O/S Skipped most bolts v easy climbing. Last pitch is probably in the grade.
with Dylan
Skipped most bolts v easy climbing. Last pitch is probably in the grade.
with Dylan
Jessica Brown 31 Jul AltLd O/S 9.5 hours with rapping
with Freya
9.5 hours with rapping
with Freya
barbora ?Aug, 2018 AltLd
with Andrew Laverick
with Andrew Laverick
EddieA 29 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
with Mark A
with Mark A
Giles Eperon 2 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S So much fun! Took us about 5h climbing in total.
So much fun! Took us about 5h climbing in total.
Charlie Eperon 2 Jul, 2017 AltLd Led the odd-numbered pitched
Led the odd-numbered pitched
cat22 25 Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S
with Julia, Mark L, Mike Lewis
with Julia, Mark L, Mike Lewis
tomdadom ?Jul, 2016 Lead O/S
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Voting
High 5.10a
Mid 5.10a
Low 5.10a
High 5.9
Mid 5.9
Low 5.9
High 5.8
Mid 5.8
Low 5.8
Votes cast 2
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Onsighted
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