60m.
This is the first of four 50m grooves between Sarajevo & Icefall Gully. The huge roof to their left is an obvious landmark. The quickest approach is to solo up the easy (II) ground of Icefall Gully. A huge spike, possibly still with a rope sling, makes a good belay at the base whilst another rope sling around a spike at the top of P1 of Forlorn Hope make it possible to rap off these routes.
This pitch climbs the groove 3m left of the spike belay. The open groove is climbed to a turfy ledge on the right (gear) before boldly continuing up the groove. An exit is made rightwards using an ice boss, whereupon the thin groove above is followed to the terrace. A 10m traverse right leads to the belay.
This pitch climbs the groove 3m left of the spike belay. The open groove is climbed to a turfy ledge on the right (gear) before boldly continuing up the groove. An exit is made rightwards using an ice boss, whereupon the thin groove above is followed to the terrace. A 10m traverse right leads to the belay.
Keith Ball & Chris Parkin 20/Dec/2010.
Feedback
There is no feedback for this climb.
Logged Ascents
There are no ascents logged for this climb.
Guidebooks for Ysgolion Duon (Black Ladders)
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Route of Interest
Hedd Wyn
Grade: VII 6 ***
(Ysgolion Duon (Black Ladders))