UKC

Start: Berdals-bandet on the Tindevegen (Private road running between Turtagrø and Øvre Ådal.) There is limit parking. Please park with consideration.

1) From Berdals-bandet to Vestre Austabotntind: Follow a defined track SE passing some small waters east of a top 1483m (Last water). From this point go due east over broad rocky terrain until you reach the crest of the north west ridge overlooking Berdalsbreen (glacier). Continue up the ridge with occasional scrambling to the top of Vestre Austabotntind.

2) Vestre Austabotntind to Midtre Austabotntind: From Vestre skirt round the top of a steep north facing gully. This gully which is up to 55 degrees is a popular extreme ski run. To access the slopes of Midtre you need to cross a gap. This can be tricky under certain conditions. One method is to sneak around the snow overlooking the steep gully on the north side of a small top overlooking the gap or alternatively go south of the small top scrambling down and cross the gap followed by an awkward scramble up the other side. The rest of the way to the top Midtre is straightforward with occasional scrambling sections to the airy Midtre Austabotntind top.

3) Midtre Austabotntind to Store Austabotntind: From this airy top, it is possible to see the entire ridge unfold. Down climb a chimney for a short distance until it is possible to scramble down broken ground with short sections of down climbing until a rock crevasse is located which takes you back to the ridge proper. The ridge section can be transited with relative ease until a knob of rock forces one of two options. Most parties traverse the knob on the south side following a ledge with occasional tricky ascents/descents until it is possible to return to the ridge between this knob and the 60m slab (grade 3). Alternatively climb the knob direct by a crack on the north side (grade 4). The boulder move is short and well protected, however, if you were to fluff it the consequences would be dire due to the fact the move is hanging over the north side of the ridge.

From between the knob and the 60m slab, there are several alternatives. The difficulties will depend on how much winter snow remains. 1) Climb the right-hand side of the slab which forms the ridge, at first on smallish holds but soon onto more broken ground for 60m, before it is possible to climb diagonally left to a gap which is north of the top formed by the junction of the west and south ridge (often icy). Alternatively: Climb the snow slopes to the left of the slab.

From the gap follow the splendid airy ridge to a rather flattish picnic area, crossing a snow arete to reach the final spectacular summit blocks. The summit blocks are climbed direct.

Descent is to reverse the route. The 60m slab can be abseiled or down climbed.


Escape routes:

Between Midtre Austabotntind (start of the climbing) and Store Austabotntind (the top), the only feasible escape is along the ridge.

E.T. Hartley, Geoffrey Hastings, William Cecil Slingsby, Thorgeir Sulheim. 17/Aug/1899


ClimberDateStyle
paaljt 22/Jul/17 AltLd O/S

Beautiful day, sunny w no wind. A bit crowed on route. 40+ people on mountain that day. Some waiting, but ok. Admire the view

yakov 08/Oct/16 Solo O/S

Winter conditions, axes and crampons. Three 25m rappels on return.

1 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High n4
Mid n4
Low n4
High n3
Mid n3
Low n3
High n3+
Mid n3+
Low n3+